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Thread: Cranking Noise Coming From Vanos - With Video

  1. #1
    Join Date
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    Cranking Noise Coming From Vanos - With Video

    Just like the title says, the vanos is making this noise. Check out the video.

    The plugs were very dirty and had been replaced a week ago and the car has been driven less than 15 miles. The car ran fine before a starter replacement. Once the starter was bolted back up, I heard a loud rattling and shut it off immediately.



    - - - Updated - - -

    According to another source, I'm turning the crank the wrong way. Which, is entirely possible. However the crankshaft gets bound up when turned by hand. I can turn it maybe 60% of a full revolution before it gets stuck. This happens in both directions however it will do the occasional full revolution.

  2. #2
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    From the front of the engine you want to turn the crankshaft clockwise. Do Not try to turn the engine from the camshaft, otherwise a worn chain can skip a tooth. There should not be any binding even if the engine is turned backwards. I may not be understanding all the events on a timeline, so I should mention that it's been known that other folks have installed incorrect length spark plugs which resulted in same symptoms you describe. Do Not start that engine until you fix it.
    Last edited by epmedia; 06-01-2014 at 03:22 AM.
    Tbd

  3. #3
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    There's no video. Just a picture.

    I agree there should be no binding as long as the plugs are out. As long as the plugs are out you should be able to rotate the engine with a minimal amount of effort even if all you have is a box wrench. Do not try to force it past the point where it's binding.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by flyfishvt View Post
    There's no video. Just a picture.

    I agree there should be no binding as long as the plugs are out. As long as the plugs are out you should be able to rotate the engine with a minimal amount of effort even if all you have is a box wrench. Do not try to force it past the point where it's binding.
    It is a video, you just have to click on it.

    I pulled the plugs and it would still bind up. I made sure not to turn it the wrong way this time and it eventually stopped binding so I put it back together and started the car. It ran, albeit roughly and pretty rich. The idle was low (around 400-550, it bounced a bit). When I pulled the plugs they were dirty. Not terribly so but they were put in two weeks ago and should be substantially cleaner if not spotless.

    Once the car was started, it threw a code for a bad injector. I replaced it and it was a little better but still rough.

    So I did what any good BMW owner would do and took it to autocross the next day.

    Turning on the AC would practically shut the car off and on deceleration there was a fluttering from the engine bay. Lifter tick has been present for a while but seemed louder. Once the RPMs were up it felt good and it launched well. It sounded like it was misfiring a little bit after the 3rd run but I'm not sure. (The exhaust note was uneven at times)

    Tomorrow I plan to swap the rest of the injectors and clean out the MAF to start.

    Could this be a bad lifter?

    Coil packs going?

    I'm open to suggestions

  5. #5
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    Related to the binding, It's still asking you to fix it and you should feel fortunate that it's trying to be nice to you. There's still something suspicious, hopefully somebody here with more experience than I, can guide you.

    Edit: I just thought of something that may be relevant to the binding; maybe the tensioner is improper/spring tension/whatever.
    Remember: the engine should not bind, even when turned backwards. And don't turn the engine by the camshaft(s).
    Last edited by epmedia; 06-03-2014 at 04:13 AM.
    Tbd

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