Finally time for my cooling system to get the long due overhaul

[Martin 03 325i]

Before I embark on this journey, I want to double check a few things by you guys. Keep in mind my car is an automatic, I will be using mainly two guides to do this DIY.

http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=415259

http://www.bmw330ci.net/maintenance/...lant.php#step1

As for what I am actually changing, well I am super tight on budget(like I have NO $$, but I am doing it because I have a leak now). I was lucky/smart enough to have bought some parts before hand when I had some extra money a few months back.

This is what I got, all oem and New from ECS:

1-expansion tank
1-upper hose
1-lower hose
1-coolant level sensor
1-expansion cap
1-coolant fluid (BMW)

Now onto what I will be buying...

1-Water pump (was thinking oem, but is $104 from ECS)
1-ECS alumminum water pump pulley $40
1-Fluid level sensor clamp $5
1-coolant temp sensor $14

That puts me at approx $180 with shipping. Now on to your help, do I NEED to replace anything else? Do I NEED/SHOULD replace the water pump with OEM or can I buy the Meyle one for $42?

Thanks guys

[tcphoto]

I did not see the thermostat on your list. I think Solari is the OEM water pump and saw Graf and Heba for less on the ECS website. There was a survey on one of the forums that gave them both better ratings compared to OEM. Those DIY links are great, they helped me when I did my refresh three weeks ago. Just take your time and take a few minutes and clean up the engine while you're there.

[Martin 03 325i]

Yes, I forgot to mention I had done my thermostat like 1.5-2 years ago. So having said that I guess I will venture away from OEM and go for Graf. Hope trying to save a few bucks ( which I really need) doesn't come back to bite.

[filipinoise]

Yes, I forgot to mention I had done my thermostat like 1.5-2 years ago. So having said that I guess I will venture away from OEM and go for Graf. Hope trying to save a few bucks ( which I really need) doesn't come back to bite.

I went with Saleri. No complaints here. I've found a couple threads on E46F that recommended the Saleri over the Graf, but many people seem to like the Graf. I guess I'm just a bit biased with OEM stuff in regards to the cooling system.. Hmm.

[Dutchman71]

I would change out the composite hard piping under the air intake manifold. The connections at the cylinderhead and block crack and break overtime. When you replace them both (which requires the manifold to be removed) they will most likely break off inside the block. Just be careful removing the broken pieces and dont damage or scratch the aluminum of the block, otherwise the new ones will leak.
Both pipes will cost you 120 dollars, but will save you a headache in the near future. I know money is tight, but take those parts in consideration or replace them later.

I am not sure what the mileage is on your car, but if you are at 150 k miles or higher, then i would advise to replace those composite ( looks like hard plastic) pipes.

[Sherwood]

Anything wrong with your old pulley? I expect one of those pump companies supplies BMW with OEM - I'd go after-market myself and save some $. I've seem recommendation that you get the plastic bracket that holds expansion tank, since it often breaks. About $40.

How many miles on the rad?

I use BMAparts. They ship free for over $50, and good prices.

[Martin 03 325i]

the car currently has 88k so is not bad enough to were I should replace the rad just yet, but I know I will eventually..as for the plastic bracket, like I said before $$ is abit tight right now so if is not broken or needing replacement right now..I can't do it..

On another note I did buy most of the parts from BMAparts.com last night. I only bought the pulley bolts, tank clip, and temp sensor from ECS..

[Sherwood]

Rec'd rad replacement is 90k, so odds are you're OK for a bit. Rads aren't hideously expensive from BMA. I wouldn't bother with new pulley myself. When you do rad, you might think about smaller hose from tank back towards engine.

I'm told the bracket breaks during tank removal, so be careful

[Martin 03 325i]

This came out with the tank and it seems as the plastic piece holding the spring,gold piece, and black piece is broke (2nd pic/tank mount)





Help please ideas?

[esberelias]

tranny t-stat

It commonly breaks when pulling on the ET to take it out

replace it

http://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E46-325...ssion/ES37712/

[takeitez]

ok the trans cooler broke off the bracket that holds it on or the pipes are broken?

without replacing the whole piece your only option is to zip tie the trans cooler back on as tight as possible so it seals

nevermind the picture finally came in I thought you were talking about the bracket that holds the trans cooler..

[Martin 03 325i]

Thanks for the replies guys..u ended up going to the stealership to buy the piece..now I'm finally done but my car cabin fan is only blowing cold air..is it because it was not bleed right? Because I followed the instructions to a T

[BadBoostedBmwM3]

Thanks for the replies guys..u ended up going to the stealership to buy the piece..now I'm finally done but my car cabin fan is only blowing cold air..is it because it was not bleed right? Because I followed the instructions to a T

Cold air is definitely a sign of an air pocket. Thus, the thermostat does not function properly.

Please solve the issues or verify the thermostat is opening.

I would change out the composite hard piping under the air intake manifold. The connections at the cylinderhead and block crack and break overtime. When you replace them both (which requires the manifold to be removed) they will most likely break off inside the block. Just be careful removing the broken pieces and dont damage or scratch the aluminum of the block, otherwise the new ones will leak.
Both pipes will cost you 120 dollars, but will save you a headache in the near future. I know money is tight, but take those parts in consideration or replace them later.

I am not sure what the mileage is on your car, but if you are at 150 k miles or higher, then i would advise to replace those composite ( looks like hard plastic) pipes.

What composite hard pipes are you talking about?

[Martin 03 325i]

Ok do I have to re-bleed the whole system? Also i see that i have a leak at the temperature sensor location(lower hose)..can i just take it out and put the new one back in without re-bleeding too?

[Dutchman71]

The 2 composite hard piping are located under the air intake manifold. The coolant hoses connect to these pipes. It looks like hard plastic, but are made of some composite material. One pipe connects to the cylinderhead and the second connects on the back side where the waterpump sits.
Where the pipes connect to the block will become weak overtime, due to the constant heat exposures.
The poster doesnt have enough miles on his car to worry about it, but i would advise to replace them at 150 k miles. Just my personal experience. I think its an overlooked part when a cooling overhaul is being done.

I had them leak and crack on me. You can buy new seals for the pipes, but on higher mile cars the connection at the engine will break off at removal and complete replacement is the only option.

[BadBoostedBmwM3]

Ok do I have to re-bleed the whole system? Also i see that i have a leak at the temperature sensor location(lower hose)..can i just take it out and put the new one back in without re-bleeding too?

Yes, I would try that. Maybe prop the driver's side of the car up a little.


Yes, you can change that sensor. It's pretty common for the green o-ring to fail. I just replace mine with a viton one.

The 2 composite hard piping are located under the air intake manifold. The coolant hoses connect to these pipes. It looks like hard plastic, but are made of some composite material. One pipe connects to the cylinderhead and the second connects on the back side where the waterpump sits.
Where the pipes connect to the block will become weak overtime, due to the constant heat exposures.
The poster doesnt have enough miles on his car to worry about it, but i would advise to replace them at 150 k miles. Just my personal experience. I think its an overlooked part when a cooling overhaul is being done.

I had them leak and crack on me. You can buy new seals for the pipes, but on higher mile cars the connection at the engine will break off at removal and complete replacement is the only option.

Hmm, I need to check that. Do you have any part numbers?

[Dutchman71]

Here are the part numbers:

BMW # 11531705210
BMW # 11537502525

You can find them on ECS tuning

ES #24836
ES # 25061

The poster car is a 325i 2003.

[Martin 03 325i]

Ok so today after driving it for a mile or so, i finally got the cabin temp to be hot, but right when i was about to call it good for the test drive..the orange coolant light came on..wth..does it need further bleeding?? Or is it something else?

[Dutchman71]

Probably just air pockets coming out, thats why your losing some coolant. If you fill it again you should be fine, unless you have another problem.