So it seems that a lot of people are having cabin heat issues. I had no heat on either side, but sometimes I would get a little heat on the passenger side. I fixed it by cleaning the heater control valve. The assembly consists of the aux water pump, and the two heater valves. It controls the heat for both sides of the car...
Here is how to clean it:
It is not necessary to drain the coolant, you will lose about 30oz when you remove the hcv...
This is what it looks like:
Where it is:
Loosen clamps and disconnect hoses and plugs. Pull straight up to remove.
Loosen the screws, and pull solenoids from the assembly.
What to clean:
Put it all back together and bleed.
How to bleed the cooling system after you're done:
Start the engine and wait for it to reach operating temperature. Once the car is warm, raise the front end of the car, we want the front to be higher than the rear, as if you were parked on a hill facing upward. You can jack the front up, drive onto a curb, or park on an incline. With the front end raised, and with the engine still running, turn the heater to 90º and the fan on low for both sides, and open the hood.
Loosen the bleed screw just enough for coolant and air bubbles to start running out. Keep the bleed screw open until there are no more air bubbles, and just coolant is running out.
Test heater for proper operation, and you're done. Enjoy.
Last edited by 7thDimension; 12-22-2012 at 05:21 PM.
Good job. Did you test the solenoids with power to see them work?
95 840Ci, Calypso Red/Silver, 83k - 99 740i, Black/Black, 185k, Alpina Mods - 01 740i, Titanium/Silver, 40k, Sport Pkg
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Did you do the same before you worked on it?
Just curious.
95 840Ci, Calypso Red/Silver, 83k - 99 740i, Black/Black, 185k, Alpina Mods - 01 740i, Titanium/Silver, 40k, Sport Pkg
Complete Turnkey Diagnostic/Programming systems available...PM for details.
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nice work, how long did it take to get the HVC out
Yes, the solenoids wouldn't move at all before, and they got hot to the touch, they were all rusted. After I cleaned the plungers, I had to use a bunch of WD-40 and fumble with the heater controls to get them to move at all. Now, about 1k miles later, they still work fine.
It took about 15 minutes just to remove it from the car.
Last edited by 7thDimension; 12-22-2012 at 06:18 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
Cool. I have an extra setup. Ive been going to play with this...
Somewhere you can get new rubbers for these..but I cant find that now.
95 840Ci, Calypso Red/Silver, 83k - 99 740i, Black/Black, 185k, Alpina Mods - 01 740i, Titanium/Silver, 40k, Sport Pkg
Complete Turnkey Diagnostic/Programming systems available...PM for details.
http://www.8Coupe.com - Please register, spot, and help the project.
Very, very appreciated OP. I've been having intermittent failure of the driver's heat. Most of what I found was about having heat while the AC was on. And the heat related fixes were about replacing wiring for a total failure. Gunked up passages seems much more likely for my issue.
I know what I'm doing next week now.
Dave
1995 Lincoln Towncar.
Cartier
I pimp your mom
thats an easy fix. i have to replace the whole unit on mine.
Glad I could contribute... Hope it works for you, I used a can of brake cleaner and a blow gun to clean out the passages. Intermittent heat on one side most likely means you're wiring is fine. Just make sure to work the plungers up and down by hand and use some penetrating oil to relieve the solenoids of any stickyness.
Why? Mine was pretty far gone, I had to use a hammer to get one of the the solenoids to move, it was corroded badly. But now, it works perfectly... Just spend some time cleaning it before you replace it, they're not cheap...
Last edited by 7thDimension; 12-23-2012 at 02:54 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
mine is causing piping hot heat from the floorvents and upper dash vents. idk it that will fix it.
I think it might. You're solenoids are sticking open, or not getting any power. If they're not getting power, a new hcv won't fix your issue. Normally, the solenoids are powered when the heater is off, and the solenoids are not powered when the heater is on. They close when they receive power... Check for 12v at the hcv plug with the climate control set to 60° and the key in position two. If you have voltage, clean the hcv, if you don't have voltage, than your problem is elsewhere.
thanks for your help bro, alls i gotta do is check that out, then program it so when i turn the car on the a/c orheat dont come on automatically. thats really annoying...
No problem... Yeah, that's the only thing that annoys me about the digital hvac controls. If I turn off the hvac, next time I start the car it turns on automatically, I don't know what genius implemented that feature. Although most cars with digital hvac controls do that, it doesn't really make any sense.
95 840Ci, Calypso Red/Silver, 83k - 99 740i, Black/Black, 185k, Alpina Mods - 01 740i, Titanium/Silver, 40k, Sport Pkg
Complete Turnkey Diagnostic/Programming systems available...PM for details.
http://www.8Coupe.com - Please register, spot, and help the project.
Great job!
- Sean
RIP Blitzkrieg
another option to elimintate the HVC as a problem completely is to replace it with a brass "T". I ran that way most of the winter last year until I found my problem was a missing fuse. Not blown fuse. Missing fuse. Long story about an indy I will never go back to.
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Will the T allow operation of the ac
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