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Thread: Door Striker DIY

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Batavia, IL
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    4,399
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    00 M Coupe, 08 335xi

    Door Striker DIY

    Took me a while to work out why the alarm was not working correctly. It would go off for no reason for a while and then finally would not arm at all.

    Thought it was the hood switch but that was OK. Finally noticed that the micro switch on the drivers door was worn and therefore not working when the door was closed.

    Ordered a new part ( 51 21 8 399 245) - Real OEM shows left and right parts, can't see what would be different but you never know!

    WARNING THE Plate that the Striker is bolted to is not attached to anything but the striker - Only remove one bolt at a time!!


    Step 1 - Disconnect the cable.

    Move the seat forward, remove the one screw holding the trim inside the door.

    I was able to pull the trim out enough to get at the connector and do the job without to much issue - It was still hooked in at the bottom.

    Disconnect the old cable and tie/tape a length of wire or string to the connector.

    Pop the rubber grommet into the door post.



    Step 2 - Remove the Striker.

    Remove the top bolt and use a stiff wire with a bend on the end or a longer bolt to keep the plate in place.




    Remove the lower bolt and ease the striker away from the panel and then replace the lower bolt.

    Remove the wire or top bolt and replace the original bolt and you end up with this



    Step 3 - Feed the new wire

    You can pull the old cable (with the extra wire/string attached) out of the door jamb. The rubber grommet is a bit of a squeeze but makes it through. I used a hook and screw driver combo on it.

    I did see another DIY where they did the opposite and cut the cable at the striker and pulled the wire backwards through the door jam.

    Either way you end up with the temporary wire that you can attache the new cable to and pull it back through.

    The new grommet was quiet a bit softer and was pulled through with no issue and popped into place on the inner bulkhead



    Step 4 - Bolt the new striker in place.

    Reverse of step 2.

    Remove the top bolt - put wire or longer bolt in place.

    Remove the bottom bolt. Put striker in place, replace bottom bolt.

    Remove wire/temp bolt and put original top bolt back.

    Tighten and adjust as required.
    Last edited by SunzOut; 11-09-2012 at 04:22 PM.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    NH
    Posts
    2,169
    My Cars
    2000 M Coupe
    Thanks for the DIY - added to my favorites.
    2000 Z3 MCoupe, '01 LSB E46 M3, '99 GTI VR6, '06 Audi A4, Andrew '95 Avus M3

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    Santa Fe, NM
    Posts
    8
    My Cars
    2000 BMW Z3 Roadster
    This DIY is perfect! Just what I was looking for, as my driver's side door striker switch is bad. Thank you! Bought a replacement through my local BMW dealer then found out that Bavarian Autosports carries the same part for $10 less. Oh well; at least I didn't have to pay shipping.

    Thank you again,

    Hambone111

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    Little Rock, AR
    Posts
    2,651
    My Cars
    98 Roadster 2.8L
    Thanks for this DIY... Both of my strikers need replacing and hadn't found a concise instructional yet :-)

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    The Villages, Florida
    Posts
    42
    My Cars
    2002 325iT 2001 Z3
    Just replaced drivers door striker. Used 8mm-1.25x70 long bolt - works perfectly. However - I always thought my door should be closed a little more to make the body panels perfectly flush. So when I put the striker plate back I moved it in 1 possibly 2 mm - and the remote would not lock the doors - if I locked them with the key then the remote would open them but would not lock them again!! So I reset the striker plate to the original position and everything works perfectly.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jan 2015
    Location
    Daytona Beach, FL
    Posts
    2
    My Cars
    1997 BMW Z3 2.8
    Awesome write up! I just did mine, thanks to you it went well.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Kent, Ohio
    Posts
    4,431
    My Cars
    1998 M Roadster
    Thanks for this write up--I'll be doing this job in the spring.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Nov 2013
    Location
    St. Petersburg, FL
    Posts
    84
    My Cars
    E36/8 M Coupe, 911/997.2
    Subscribed and thanks! I've only needed to do this for about 5 years now...

    Could you imagine that striker backing plate falling down? What the heck would you do then!
    Last edited by Oilburnin; 02-20-2016 at 07:06 AM.
    Ben

    '00 M Coupe (my daily for almost 10 glorious years now)
    '09 911 (wife's daily/my bucket list)
    '08 Z4 Coupe (wife's, sold, sometimes regrettably)
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    '88 E30 (kid's)

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Oro Valley, AZ - USA
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    1,706
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    see my signature
    Quote Originally Posted by Oilburnin View Post
    Subscribed and thanks! I've only needed to do this for about 5 years now...

    Could you imagine that striker backing plate falling down? What the heck would you do then!
    I think there's access holes from the inside, if you take off the interior trim pieces....this job is actually a lot less nerve racking if you do so. I've done them both ways.
    2006 R53 JCW (British Racing Green) - 1994 E31 840Ci 6spd (AVUS Blue)
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