I paid 9$ on eBay got a new sensor and plugged it in . And within 2 minutes it was reading the right temp. And all I did was change out the little sensor part no wires or anything . Mine read -40 for over a year
No. I'm suggesting you might want to try the method eva89 mentioned worked for them. I would also want to make clear to try this at your own risk, as the author of the DIY posted at the top of my quoted thread didn't have to do anything extra to get the sensor to register the correct temp after installation.
Good luck and post back the results for others who might run into the same problem.
In lieu of spending money for a temperature sensor I calibrated a series of resistors that I got from Radio Shack...
Open circuit = -40F
100Kohm = -26F
10Kohm = 50F
1Kohm = 122F
So, for the fall I'm putting a 10Kohm resistor on the wires. This winter I'll try a 33K and maybe in the spring I'll dump the cash for a new sensor.
1997 E39 540i aka the 2nd Generation America Bomber...
1983 528e (long gone)
1971 R75/5 (long gone)
I got a used one from RIBoater out of a car he was parting. With connector and pigtail. $25 with postage. Why bother with a radio shack kluge?
99 540iT, Jet Black on Black. Dinan mods ( CAI, MAF, TB, Brace, Stage 4 engine and tranny software ). 00 750iL, Jet Black on Black. MPars, Sport Steering wheel, alpina replica lip. 05 Mini S, Dinan CAI, Strut brace, UUC exhaust.
6 cents vs. $25 bucks... That's why.
1997 E39 540i aka the 2nd Generation America Bomber...
1983 528e (long gone)
1971 R75/5 (long gone)
check the wiring thats what happend to me
You need to actually drive the car. The temperature will not change while the car is stationary. BMW does this to keep temps from fluctuating excessively while driving. It might take a couple miles for the temperature to begin to move towards actual ambient temps.
Short the two wires and then just wire normaly and drive temp will go to temp within a couple of minutes
Don't ask me how I know 1st thing that I had to do to get ac working properly
While I would still opt to just replace the sensor, this is still good information for testing purposes. I personally like knowing details like this.
Like the OP, he plugged in a new sensor and it still wasn't reading right.
Throw a resistor in there real quick, see if the gauge changes accordingly, now you at least know it's not a wiring or connector type issue and can move on to trying to reset things or just drive it, or any of the other methods mentioned, etc, etc. (personally I think all you need to do is plug in a new sensor and it should start working, it's really nothing more than a variable resistor, but whatever)
Normally I don't rise to the bait...
I have 5 kids under age 12, an austin healey 3000, a 540i, an M5, and a honda for the masses. A Ph.D. in Electrical Engineering, a 4 car garage with a lift in the house that my trophy wife and I built with our own hands.
I try not to spend money on things I don't need. Given that a NCT thermistor is about $2.00 I thought I'd calibrate what was supposed to have been placed under the front air dam right where the PO ripped it out.
YMMV,
Larry
1997 E39 540i aka the 2nd Generation America Bomber...
1983 528e (long gone)
1971 R75/5 (long gone)
Show us the trophy wife
Lol
Okay. Can't say for certain why it works but it does. Maybe it just needed to be started and shutoff a couple times as that's all I did. Works fine now.Originally Posted by jamesdc4
In for pics of the Healey.
/.randy
The real reason to spend the $15 and replace it properly: keep the connector contacts sealed.
My sensor was missing when I bought the car, so I don't know how long the contacts were exposed to the elements. I installed the replacement sensor, and it didn't work.
The fix was disassembling and replacing the connector shell. The original shell had a broken latch and had gathered a coating of road grime. Once the shell was off, the connector contacts were easily cleaned and the replacement shell installed. The sensor worked immediately on the next drive.
Note that I did not solder on new contact pigtails. I left the original wiring and crimped contacts in place, doing all of the work at the wheel well.
BTW, the I don't know where the superstition of shorting the harness contacts came from. It's not going to reset the computer. The only thing it could do is clean the contacts.
I'm dealing with this right now.
I just finished doing major work (timing guides, oil separator, valley pan, etc.) right before I had to go into surgery for an f'd up left arm (I'm right handed, fwiw). Well, as I was driving out of the hospital parking deck a week later, I clipped a low curb and the temp sensor as gone.
Initially, I went to the local dealer and forked over roughly $60 for a new sensor, the connector, and the two wires.
I had my brother install it. Next day I noticed the temp read 70° F and all was well.
Until the next day. -40° again. WTF. At home I got under the car and could see the sensor was gone again (bad install). Grrrr...
This time, I ordered the same stuff from Pelican, with a Febi sensor instead of a "BMW" sensor (which I assume is the same) for about $40 shipped.
Sensor came quickly, and same brother installed senser, making sure it was secure.
This time, no temp change, still -40°.
Sensor is removed, and I take apart the connectors. One of the two terminal pins in the sensor was way shorter, as though it broke off. I know I was careful putting it together, and I didn't see any remnants of the broken terminal anywhere, but whatever, I'm sure that was the problem.
Reviews on Pelican reveal several mentions of fragile terminals, and DOA sensors, so there you go.
Pelican sent out a new sensor today for me.
Check the sensor for both terminal health, and resistance as described above.
BTW, I never saw any slow ramp-up to correct temperature after replacing the sensor the first time, not like my old e32s, it displayed the proper temp before I even got the car on the road...
BMWCCA #164901
Current Rides:
'12 X5 xDrvive35i
'07 Aprilia Tuono Factory
Past rides:
'00 540i 6spd,'88 750iL,'88 735i,'79 320i,'and 78 Suzuki GS750
As someone mentioned in a previous post...the ambient temp sensor is buffered to prevent constant temp changes. Ambient temps are not the same everywhere at the same time...position to sun or shade...height or depth all constantly influence ambient temperatures. Think of your home...standing beneath a large shade tree vs standing on your driveway or patio at high noon...the north side of the house is always cooler than the southern exposure...as well as the east side vs the west side at the same time of day.
And if the temp sensor wasn't buffered...those that live where temps drop below 37 degrees F would go batty with the ICE WARNING going off every few minutes that the temp would rise to 43 degrees, then back to below 37 degrees.
Last edited by Qsilver7; 10-26-2012 at 04:53 PM.
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