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Thread: BMW E38 740il fuse #6 problem

  1. #1
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    BMW E38 740il fuse #6 problem

    First of all i'll try to keep it as short as possible

    Specs about the car
    128k
    4.4 v8
    everything is excellent but for one fuse

    #6 fuse on the passenger side front fuse box for my interior lights and windshield washer blows

    i have taken every pillar light out and every door light trunk light all bulbs and light assemblies have been removed to only leave the connector

    then if i put the #6 fuse in there it does not blow but as i open any door it blows right away

    if i don't open any doors windshield washer will work flawlessly and it wont blow in that case!

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AAIs1...ature=youtu.be
    Last edited by hfb1995; 10-05-2012 at 05:15 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost

  2. #2
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    Sounds like you have a wiring issue. Found this on a quick search:

    http://www.bimmerboard.com/forums/posts/799145

    I would start visually inspecting the wiring to each interior light. Blowing with any door opening eliminates the wiring to the trunk light and wipers. You have a short or ground issue.

  3. #3
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    Id bet your short is in the door hinge area where the wires flex. This is easy...

    Replace the fuse and open each door to see which one makes it blow.

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  4. #4
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    My first thought was drivers door issue but he said 'any' door. Assumptions.....

    Maybe tin foil and watch for smoke?

  5. #5
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    I don't think it's at the hinges on the doors it does it for every door and only if i turn all the interior lights on! one of the wires that goes to one of the bulbs must be shorted and ones i turn them all on or open a door it shorts out and blows it

    does my theory make any sense and if so where and how could i best troubleshoot this?

    THANK YOU for the replys and taking the time!

  6. #6
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    Well...take the bulbs out of each light and see which one causes it to blow.
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  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by hfb1995
    I don't think it's at the hinges on the doors it does it for every door and only if i turn all the interior lights on! one of the wires that goes to one of the bulbs must be shorted and ones i turn them all on or open a door it shorts out and blows it

    does my theory make any sense and if so where and how could i best troubleshoot this?

    THANK YOU for the replys and taking the time!
    I would say remove all the bulbs and start opening the door and add 1 bulb each time you do that

    Could be the led bulbs if thy are low quality

    Quote Originally Posted by zaherr

    I would say remove all the bulbs and start opening the door and add 1 bulb each time you do that

    Could be the led bulbs if thy are low quality
    Never mind
    Last edited by zaherr; 10-06-2012 at 08:57 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost

  8. #8
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    Sorry sir but i already removed each and every bulb and when i open the door it still blows the fuse!

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    Behind the glove box is the General Module. Disconnect the battery and pull the GM out (will be the white colored box) Check the outsides of the box for any discoloring, burn marks or warping from it getting hot. If you see any and are good with electronics open it up and most likely you will find a burned run in the circuit card. I was able to jumper the bad part on mine and restore normal function.

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  10. #10
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    I will try that asap it stops raining out here!

  11. #11
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    Have you noticed if your passenger side carpet is damp at all during the rain?

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  12. #12
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    it's never got wet damp or any like that! and it always has been garage kept!

  13. #13
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    He is asking because when the sunroof drains clog, water gets in behind the glove box where the general module is located.

  14. #14
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    Ok this makes sense!!

    it never gets wet inside the car!
    i just had a long 400 mile road trip with it and it was raining 70% of the time.
    when it's raining hard i can hear a dripping sound idk if i was going crazy so i got a second person to listen and he heard it too.

    we could only hear it at 60-80 mph during strong rain but it never gets wet inside...

    and asap it stops raining the noise stopped.

  15. #15
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    Mayorchuck,

    I have an e38 99 740i, and my passenger side carpet is damp as well as the sunroof well and driver side carpet, how can I clear a clogged in the sunroof drains? today tried blowing them clear through with an air compressor detail spray tip and a small tube directly into the drain holes. I will need to see if that work since I just did that and no rain. Any other ideas?

    Me & My 1999 e38 740i holding it down in the BX, New York City - ETC

  16. #16
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    Weed eater string. I have never had to do it but I know forced air can cause the connections to come apart at the bend. There is some links on e38.org if you have to dig into it. Have you verified it is the sunroof? Windshield cowl and door moisture barriers can do this as well. Could probably rule out the moisture barriers unless you have had work done on both doors, i.e. regulators.



    http://www.bimmerboard.com/forums/posts/822748

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fredsta170 View Post
    Mayorchuck,

    I have an e38 99 740i, and my passenger side carpet is damp as well as the sunroof well and driver side carpet, how can I clear a clogged in the sunroof drains? today tried blowing them clear through with an air compressor detail spray tip and a small tube directly into the drain holes. I will need to see if that work since I just did that and no rain. Any other ideas?
    You can take a cup of water and pour it over the sunroof along the sides of the glass and se if it runs out the front drain near the windshield. I took my A piller trim off and could see the water coming into the car so I followed this post http://www.bimmerboard.com/forums/posts/26759 and put clamps on the hoses. I took them off first and made sure they were clean then reinstalled.

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  18. #18
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    Just for my own info Chief, is there any airbag issues with the facelift cars when removing the A pillar for this.

  19. #19
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    At the very least if you want to drive it and have your washer work, you can disable the interior lights by opening a door and holding down the middle interior lighting button for several seconds (more than three). That button goes directly to the GM so it should still work with the blown fuse.

    You should then be able to replace the fuse and be able to open your doors without the fuse fusing. If it still blows after doing that then there must be a bigger issue than the wiring to the interior lights.
    Last edited by The Foreign 7er; 10-07-2012 at 02:32 AM. Reason: Specified number of seconds to disable interior lights as noted from WDS entry that Majorchuck posted

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mayorchuck View Post
    Just for my own info Chief, is there any airbag issues with the facelift cars when removing the A pillar for this.
    No the bags lay under the pillers but they do not get disconnected when taking out the panels. Just remember there is a screw under the ABS plastic piece.

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  21. #21
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    Good info Foreign. Had not run across that before. Since I am in the WDS:



    http://wds.spaghetticoder.org/en/svg...0864.svg?m=e38


    http://wds.spaghetticoder.org/en/zinfo/E38_PA1A.htm





    The interior lighting is controlled by following switches and systems:

    • Button at front of central light unit
    • Door contacts
    • Terminal R and terminal 58 (parking light)
    • Central locking
    • Remote control lock system
    • Crash sensor, up to 9/96
    • Airbag control unit, as of 9/96
    • Additional on E39 touring: Boot lid/rear window contact

    Button

    The lights of the interior lighting system can be switched on and off by means of the button at the front of the central light unit. However, the lighting is still controlled automatically by the general module.
    This means the interior lighting switched off by means of this button would be switched on again by opening a door.
    As a special function, the interior lighting can be switched off permanently when the button is depressed for longer than 3 seconds. The system reverts to automatic mode when the button is pressed once again.
    Switch-on conditions


    • Button pressed
    • Vehicle door open
    • Terminal R switched off when the parking light (terminal 58) was switched on within the past 32 seconds
    • Registration of an impact or collision by the external crash sensor (up to 9/96) or by the airbag control unit (as of 9/96).

    Switch-off conditions


    • Button pressed
    • Immediately after closing a door and switching on terminal R
    • Immediately when all doors are closed and the vehicle is locked.
    • After 20 seconds when a door is closed and terminal R is OFF.
    • After 16 minutes when a door is held permanently open.
    • After 20 seconds when the lighting is switched on by switching off terminal R.
    • After 8 seconds when the lighting is switched on by remote control.

    Load cut-out

    The following lights in the vehicle can be switched on when the vehicle is parked:

    • Reading light
    • Glovebox lighting
    • Engine compartment and luggage compartment lighting

    The voltage (B+ supply) for these loads is supplied by the general module.
    To ensure the vehicle battery is not discharged when the lights are switched on permanently, the general module switches off the B+ supply 16 minutes after switching off terminal R.
    The "load cut-out" line is also routed to the closed-circuit (standby) current relay K72. This relay switches the load circuits for:

    • Series E38, up to 9/95: Seat adjustment, rear head restraint adjustment, steering column adjustment and sun shade.
    • Series E38, as of 9/95: Seat/steering column memory
    • Series E39: Seat/steering column memory

    Relay K72 therefore disconnects these systems from the terminal 30 supply 16 minutes after switching off terminal R.
    These loads are switched on again when terminal R or 15 is switched on in conjunction with a signal change at an input of the general module or peripheral module, e.g. opening a door, opening the front (bonnet) lid, unlocking a door.

  22. #22
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    If you have wires shorted in one of the door hinges, it won't matter if you don't open that door or take the bulb out. As soon as the interior lights go to switch on, it'll short and blow the fuse. That's a more likely scenario than a toasted GM, I would think. Easier to check the GM, though.
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  23. #23
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    what are the bulbs supposed to get at the two wires coming from the gm going to the bulbs?

    like is there a constant 12 volt on one of the wires and the gm adds ground to the other wire? or vice versa?

    kind regards

  24. #24
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    Voltage from GM with ground from here on x596:

    http://wds.spaghetticoder.org/en/zinfo/E38_EX596A.htm

    Pretty sure it's 12v with no resistance from dimmer. So you should have voltage on one wire and ground on the other. If you have a short on the circuit, the voltage will be way down.

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