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Thread: DIY: E39 Door Lock Actuator Replacement

  1. #1
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    DIY: E39 Door Lock Actuator Replacement

    The following is a DIY to replace the front door lock actuator. This is a relatively easy DIY (about a 5 or 6 out of 10) but there are some tricks to doing it quickly and properly. It took me 4 hours total including time spent to document the procedure and two hours to troubleshoot why the lock button did not work at first . Refer to http://tis.spaghetticoder.org/e39/ for additional drawings. The Bentley is mostly useless.

    The usual disclaimers apply. Use this DIY at your own risk and peril. Always disconnect the battery before handling the airbag module. Safety first!

    Part #67 11 8 352 165 Door Lock Actuator VDO/Siemens ~$54 from BMAparts

    Tools
    1. #2 Philips head and small flat blade screwdriver
    2. T10, T20 and T30 screwdrivers
    3. Small pick set (Harbor Freight)
    4. 10mm socket
    5. 3/8" extension bar
    6. A good small flashlight with a clip

    1. Remove the front door panel. Follow the BSW directions on YouTube for e39 front door speaker installation.

    a) Remove the Philips head screw inside the front vent tunnel

    b) Pick the cap off the screw cover and remove the T20 screw behind the door handle

    c) Pull the door panel off by pulling outward to disengage clips. Work your way around the entire edge.

    d) As you pull away the panel, work the door handle through the opening.

    e) Unplug the speakers and door lamp

    f) I did not disengage the window control cabling so I just left the door panel laying across the door opening.

    g) Pull the door clip off the post by squeezing the tines and pulling. Put the clip onto the door panel to facilitate reassembly

    2. Remove the speaker module – Remove the three Phillips screws that hold the bass speaker cabinet, unplug and remove.

    3. Remove the airbag module - Disconnect the battery. Disconnect the power cable by pushing in the yellow tab and moving the entire plug assembly to the right, off the bracket. Then squeeze the plug and remove from the socket. Remove the three 10mm screws and remove the entire airbag assembly. Per the TIS, some models have four screws.

    4. Gently peel vapor barrier back (TIS R51 0257). I went about halfway, which was enough. Bend the vapor barrier back and tie off to the steering column to keep it out of the way.

    5. Refer to TIS 51 21 090 for removing the door lock.

    a) Open the small hinged door that covers the actuator cable connector. Use a small screwdriver to open the restraining tabs (arrow) and open the door. Remove the actuator cable connector by pulling downwards (arrow) on the outer frame (TIS R51 0258). It should follow the curved arcs and then allow the plug to be pulled off.

    b) Disconnect the Bowden cable white nipple (arrow) located against the outer door panel side by using a pick to push the spring-loaded arm up (it rotates) (R51 0259). In the space below, insert a AA battery or the end of a 3/8" extension arm to hold the arm up. This creates slack in the Bowden cable. Use the T10 screwdriver and insert it into the small opening on the end of the nipple (arrow). Don't force it. It will wedge tight and then rotate the nipple counterclockwise 90 degrees. This will free the cable nipple from the arm. Move the entire cable, including cable guide free.

    c) Remove the three T30 screws that hold the locking assembly to the door (TIS R51 0488). These have locktite on them, so the initial force required is high. Remove the upper T20 screw near the lock button.

    d) Unplug the lower cable connector from the locking assembly and disconnect from the locking assembly (TIS R51 0487). A small restraining tab on the locking assembly holds the cable in place.

    6. Gently work the entire locking assembly downwards. The connection to the door key takes a little bit of persuasion to come free. Work the lock button through the foam and the entire assembly comes free. Work the attached door handle through the opening and follow the locking assembly out the lower opening in the door.

    7. The entire locking assembly, including the actuator and the attached door handle are now free of the vehicle.

    8. Remove the back panel from the locking assembly by removing the T20 screw (arrow).

    9. Remove the old actuator (TIS R51 0262) by bending the locking panel out with a small screwdriver and lifting the actuator up and out. The slot is where the locking tab engages.

    10. Reassembly – This is the part that is not described anywhere. When you replace the actuator, make sure the two center tabs (arrows) are aligned like so. For some reason, if you do not do this, the lock button does not go up or down when the actuator is triggered.

    11. Install the actuator into the tabs.

    12. Before inserting the locking assembly, plug the cable assembly in place, reconnect the battery and check for proper function (door button goes up and down). You will need to manually close the door latch (to simulate a closed door) for this to function. The first time, I did not check for proper function and my lock button did not go up or down AFTER reassembly. It took over two hours to troubleshoot this issue, disassembling and reassembling the unit several times before I figured this out.

    13. Ensure the outside door handle connector is facing downward to facilitate re-engagement.

    14. Insert the locking assembly into the lower door opening. Lead with the door handle and cable. This should come out of the old opening. Wiggle the locking assembly onto the door handle connector. It is engaged when the screw holes become visible. Insert on T30 screw to hold the unit in place. Replug the connector to check for proper function. If OK, close the door. Reconnect the lower cable.

    15. Reconnect the Bowden cable using the disassembly procedure in reverse. Make sure the cable guide goes into its proper location.

    16. Install the T30 screws using Loctite (blue) and the T20 screw.

    17. Reinstall the vapor barrier using silicone caulking.

    18. Disconnect the battery before reconnecting the side airbag. Reinstall the airbag module, reconnect the cable and reconnect the battery.

    19. Reinstall the speaker module and reconnect all cables

    20. Reinstall the door panel.

    21. Enjoy the working door locking mechanism!

    I have attached a .pdf file of this DIY with pictures.
    Attached Files Attached Files

  2. #2
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    Arigatou Fudman! I've tucked the PDF on my hard drive for the inevitable day.

  3. #3
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    Thanks. Saved the file.

  4. #4
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    FINAL NOTES:

    If your door lock seems slow coming up or going down or fails to properly lock or unlock, that is a symptom of a failing actuator. Another symptom (if you don't watch your lock buttons) is if your car alarm seems to go off periodically. The alarm, for some reason, becomes supersensitive if a lock fails to engage. If you notice these symptoms, fix your actuator soon. In doing my research, those that did not replace their failing actuator had to destroy their door panels to access a failed actuator, as the door cannot be unlocked manually or remotely when an actuator fails in the locked position. You don't want to wait too long on this repair!

    And when reinstalling the door panel, use part 4 of the YouTube video sequence. You must slide the top part of the panel down, then push the center to engage the clip, then work your way around the edges to engage the pin clips.

  5. #5
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  6. #6
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    Thanks for the timely write-up! For the past 2 weeks I've often had to lock/unlock the car (from the key fob) twice to get the driver's door to respond. I didn't know if this was due to recently having the car "programmed" to open all 4 doors with a single click (vs. first click = driver's door unlocks, 2nd click = others doors unlock).
    BMA Auto Parts had the best price - $50.04 for Siemens/VDO unit, which qualifies for free shipping.
    John in VA
    BMW CCA member
    National Capital Chapter
    '74 tii "Juanita"
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    '00 328i "Fern"
    '03 530i "Titan"


  7. #7
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    With the door panel off it a good time to confirm that other components are functioning properly, i.e. door brake,speakers, etc. Not sure on the E39's but on the E38's energizing the system without the airbag connected will throw a SRS code.

  8. #8
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    this would have been a great thing to have to replace my bowden cable, boy that was a pita to do. i must have pulled this unit 4 times to get the cable right. needless to say i can do it quickly now

    Sent from my microwave using BF.com

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by motion View Post
    With the door panel off it a good time to confirm that other components are functioning properly, i.e. door brake,speakers, etc. Not sure on the E39's but on the E38's energizing the system without the airbag connected will throw a SRS code.
    My car did not throw a code when I reconnected the battery to check the actuator function before reconnecting the airbag module.

  10. #10
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    Here are some additional notes and photos to supplement Fud's PDF write-up.


    1g) This is what that square clip looks like. It seems to stay on the body door notch.
    I removed it and reinstalled it onto the removable door panel.



    2) To unclip the speaker clips, move that black bar to the right.
    Here is the before/after photographed after it was removed.



    3) Airbag module clip.
    You can push that tab in with a tiny screwdriver to release it.



    To slide the entire clip off the track, push that center "nub" away from you (towards the body door)



    5) Here is the general location of the actuator, if you're wondering.
    This is also a good time to unclip the interior door lever/cup.
    It really gets in the way, and I was afraid IO was going to damage the wire and housing since it kept bending.



    5a) Here is how that little door unclips


    Top clip gets pressed down



    Bottom Clip gets pressed up



    5a) The black and brown housing come off together.
    The black park moves down. The brown part doesn't move.
    Here is another photo. The white notch needs to get to the top of the arc track.



    Notice how the white circular tabs go under the black part.
    Once it's there, stick your finger into the cavity, and just yank it off.
    The plug comes off by moving directly right, not up or down.



    5b) Here are some more photos of the Bowden cable step.


    There is a place where the cable can come free.
    Look at 10 o'clock in the first photo. See how the track ends?
    You push the wire left, towards that in the photo.
    Once you do that I just pulled the cylinder towards me and it was free.



    6) When everything is unbolted, the only thing holding the actuator assembly in place is this toggle switch thing.
    When you yank the assembly downwards, it will automatically disconnect.
    Once it's in your hands, make sure you take a look at how it connected into that "socket", so you know how to line it up during assembly.



    13) Here is another photo of that rod. It pretty much works like a toggle switch.
    When reinstalling, notice how it is in FRONT of the plastic flap (marked with a yellow line)
    When you remove this thing, make sure you notice where it goes back into the actuator housing.
    It will be slanting down. When you push up, it will slide in, and toggle to pointing up.





    14) This is the orientation when you feed it back into the door cavity



    Don't forget to reattach the yellow square!
    This is also the time where you can reattach the door lever.
    Make sure you feed the stiff cable back out.





    15) Make sure the red nipple is seated correctly. This took me like 10 tries.

  11. #11
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  12. #12
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    I replaced the REAR lock actuator today.

    Once the door panel is exposed, you'll see that the actuator is totally hidden.
    The order of steps is different than the front.


    There is no exposed section like in the front door photos.
    There is no toggle door lock tumbler thing to disengage.
    There is no speaker or airbag.


    1) Unhook the Bowden cable nipple.
    2) Unclip the yellow door handle cable retaining clip from the little square retaining hole
    3) FIRST, remove the T30 bolts
    4) Slide actuator down and THEN unhook the "arced" wiring harness clip
    5) Remove actuator (Keep the door handle thing attached)


    The tricky part during reinstallation is to simultaneously guide the door lock rod into the door panel hole
    and making sure the Bowden cable thing is not pushed under the actuator.
    (Otherwise, you'll need to lower the actuator, fish out the cable, and retry)


    Also, I noticed that my remote FOB now works to lock/unlock the doors! Is this related?


    Last edited by OnTheFence; 09-23-2014 at 07:45 PM.

  13. #13
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    Thanks to both of you for these great write-ups, I used both of them to fix mine last night. I would add one thing...

    On my 2000, THE LOCK ACTUATOR WILL NOT WORK unless the window switch module is plugged in! I was trying to test everything out before I re-installed the door panel and the stupid thing would not work at all. I lost track of the number of times I pulled the latch out of the door trying to figure out WTF was wrong. I was grasping at straws when I tried plugging the window switches back in. derp.

  14. #14
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    I opened the door back up, and used this to re-seal the vapor barrier. $7 and a caulk gun.
    Saw it suggested on another forum as better than the Butyl tape. You can cake it on, that's for sure.
    http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...?ie=UTF8&psc=1


  15. #15
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    I ordered a pair of actuators a few days ago and they will be here early next week. One question that I'm wondering about is whether it's necessary to purchase extra door clips before tackling this project. I seem to remember reading a post about upgrading the speakers in the doors and breaking the door clips when removing the door panel. Was that a problem for anyone? These actuators going bad can be a real pain in the behind. I was at the grocery store the other day and went to lock the car. I hit the keyfob button to lock it, the locks all popped up and then back down, except the back door lock on the passenger side stayed up. Had to unlock it again and then relock. The second time locked all the doors. Last week, same store, I thought I had locked the doors and didn't bother to check. When I came back after shopping I found both passenger doors were unlocked. I had my iPod Touch and my cell phone in my center armrest storage compartment, and more valuables in the glovebox. Problems like this make we wish I had simple, reliable manual door locks.

    - - - Updated - - -
    Last edited by Dave Sal; 10-17-2013 at 03:39 PM.
    2000 528i sport
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  16. #16
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  17. #17
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    Thank you for the great writeup! My new '97 528i won't lock the drivers door... so I need to do this repair soon. Are the actuators the same for all doors on all e39s? BMA Parts has them for $56 now but you need a $75 order for free shipping. Anyone know of a cheaper source? Thanks guys....

  18. #18
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  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by 1991brg View Post
    BMA Parts has them for $56 now but you need a $75 order for free shipping. Anyone know of a cheaper source?
    Add several oil filters to your order.
    Last edited by John in VA; 10-20-2013 at 10:42 PM.
    John in VA
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    National Capital Chapter
    '74 tii "Juanita"
    '85 535i "Goldie"
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    '00 328i "Fern"
    '03 530i "Titan"


  20. #20
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  21. #21
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    Thanks for the links guys. Ordered a cheap one off ebay last night for $26 shipped... might be junk but worth a shot at the price! I'm looking at dirt cheap window regulators and cup holders on there too.

  22. #22
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    Ok... I spent an hour trying to figure this one out.... let me go try that now!

    My two tabs don't want to line up together either... any ideas on that guys?

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by 1991brg View Post
    Ok... I spent an hour trying to figure this one out.... let me go try that now!

    My two tabs don't want to line up together either... any ideas on that guys?
    Use a screwdriver to latch the mechanism - like when the door is closed. Then you'll be able to line them up.

  24. #24
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    Ok... as it now the key will turn in the lock cylinder but I have to force it and it won't do anything. I'll try that with a screwdriver and see what happens.

  25. #25
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    Hey guys, a quick question. I just viewed the BSW E39 speaker installation video on Youtube and one of the first things that the guy says to do is to lower the window. Is that necessary to replace the door lock actuators? Also, the link for the OP's PDF file no longer works. Does anyone have it saved somewhere? Thanks
    2000 528i sport
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