So I'm finally getting around to putting a build thread together for the M5, the current goal is to have the M5 back on the road for Bimmerfest and be mechanically sorted but not aesthetically which will happen this winter. I started with dropping both subframes and cleaning the chassis and looking for any rust or areas that had damaged seam sealer. Luckily no rust but I did have a few areas where the seam sealer and under body coating and been worn through so I patched those up.
While the subframes were out I cleaned them up and repainted with Wurth High Zinc Primer and Wurth Matte Black paint. All new hardware and motor mounts ready to go.
Also went ahead and re-tapped the chassis holes for the front support and subframe.
Along with the suspension Ive also decided to take care of all the steering components, still cleaning the steering box up and checking it over.
With the front subframe down I replaced the oil pan gasket and sender oring along with all new hardware and Loctite 246 torqued to spec.
JB Racing aluminum flywheel can be seen in the above pic, I'm debating on keeping it or going with a triple disc setup when I rebuild the engine. Another small project that I'm tackling with the front subframe dropped is deleting the secondary air injection system. Since the S38 AC system uses the secondary air injection pump to tension the AC belt you need to use the 535i bracket and compressor lines as well as do a little strain relieving on the temperature sensor on the compressor. I'll have pics later of that. Here is the new bracket and new hardware torqued and installed with Loctite.
I also machined up some delete plates to eliminate the secondary air injection rail and down hose.
Installed on the headers and torqued to spec.
So tearing apart all the bushings in the E34 is quite the pain but I built a few tools that made it easy to replace all the rear subframe bushings including the rear trailing arm bushings. Here are the tools in action, I need to get more pics of the diff support bushing setup up as well. Here is the subframe puller in action.
Oh yes.
Here is the rear trailing arm setup in action.
Im replacing the rear trailing arm bushings and diff support bushings with OEM the rear subframe units are Powerflex from Gianucci (Great seller!). Little note I found interesting the standard E34 uses a rubber bushing with metal pin bonded in rubber whereas the M5 uses a rotary bearing setup in the rear trailing arms, one more little difference brought to you by M. The front suspension rebuild consists of all new hardware and 850csi arms and Mooseheads in OEM BMW (Lemforder) arms. Most importantly in the overall rebuild are the Ground Control bits.
Adjustable front swaybar end links.
Here are the rear units installed and torqued down, along with being fully adjustable the Ground control pieces allow me to eliminate the SLS system and all its added weight and complexity.
I also removed the lines for the SLS that run forward and replaced the mounting brackets and just for kick the mounting clamps for the fuel lines and cleaned everything a bit more. Hardware.
Old
New
Gas lines as well
While I had everything dropped I added a set of Stoptech Stainless lines from Turner Motorsport.
Old front
New Front
New rear
I noticed I had a slight leak from the drivers side output shaft so since the rear subframe is dropped I decided to reseal the diff as well as a little side project while waiting for parts to come in.
Next on the list this week is replacing the gaskets and hardware for the oil return pipe for the head and coolant feed line for the head. With those addressed I'll be able to get the front subframe and suspension mounted back up along with the headers. Im also working on building a remote mount windshield washer reservoir that will live behind the passenger fender so that I have more room behind the passenger headlight assembly.
Last edited by 93FIM5; 07-23-2012 at 07:23 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
"You may all go to Hell, and I will go to Texas."
Davy Crockett
www.Angry-Ass.com
My Build Thread Part 1, Part 2
DIY E31 X-Brace Mod and Install
DIY Rear Seat Backrest Modification for E32 Armrest
Good lord! That is quite a post. Awesome looking work!
Current Fleet:
E34 1991 M5 Macaoblau on Complete (ruined)Leather Champagne - http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1705166
Past:
E34 1989 535i 5-Speed AlpineweissII on Natur - Parted
E34 1992 525i 5-Speed Islandgrun on Pergament - Parted
E34 1995 540i 6-Speed ShwarzII on Shwarz - Sold to Sneezy.
E34 1995 525i 5-Speed Calypso Red on Parchment - http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1748143 - Sold locally.
E39 1998 528i 5-Speed Black on Black - Sold locally.
E34 1993 M5 Alpinweiss on Black - http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...lpinweissII-M5 - Parted
Thanks bud still have a lot of pictures Im sorting through to show the rest, lots going on.
"You may all go to Hell, and I will go to Texas."
Davy Crockett
www.Angry-Ass.com
My Build Thread Part 1, Part 2
DIY E31 X-Brace Mod and Install
DIY Rear Seat Backrest Modification for E32 Armrest
Nice to see your pictures in one place Greg lol
Triple plate clutch? You got a spare $5k burning a hole in your pocket?!
"You may all go to Hell, and I will go to Texas."
Davy Crockett
www.Angry-Ass.com
My Build Thread Part 1, Part 2
DIY E31 X-Brace Mod and Install
DIY Rear Seat Backrest Modification for E32 Armrest
G-damn I admire your hard work! But, on the ground with jack-stands? You sir, must have balls the size of grapefruits and wear a 42 inch waist to accommodate such.
"You may all go to Hell, and I will go to Texas."
Davy Crockett
www.Angry-Ass.com
My Build Thread Part 1, Part 2
DIY E31 X-Brace Mod and Install
DIY Rear Seat Backrest Modification for E32 Armrest
I have my eye on the UUC twin disk. The tilton 7.25 triples aren't what they're cracked up to be - great for circle track and long gears, but bad for torque ramps like big turbos make. The tilton triples that are BMW specific are seeeeeeeerious money. I can't drive around knowing that something so simple as a rear main seal leak can ruin $3k worth of plates!
The UUC setup looks hot - I am aiming for that honestly.
Yea that is a nice setup and I agree its scary when that much is on the line with such a simple failure. Dont think they have a S38 setup yet and I dont expect to see one, but I may be surprised Im sure I'll figure something out. BTW do you have the clutch line they offer?
"You may all go to Hell, and I will go to Texas."
Davy Crockett
www.Angry-Ass.com
My Build Thread Part 1, Part 2
DIY E31 X-Brace Mod and Install
DIY Rear Seat Backrest Modification for E32 Armrest
Having seen this in person I can honestly say if you where to flip the car over you would have no issues eating off of it. I feel seriously bad for his GF who likely had to scrub with a toothbrush. Being the way Greg is though it is what it is.
Now get back to work so we don't have to drive that e36 with it's failing apart interior to bimmerfest.
Do you have any pictures of where you have those jack stands in the first picture?
Current Fleet:
E34 1991 M5 Macaoblau on Complete (ruined)Leather Champagne - http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1705166
Past:
E34 1989 535i 5-Speed AlpineweissII on Natur - Parted
E34 1992 525i 5-Speed Islandgrun on Pergament - Parted
E34 1995 540i 6-Speed ShwarzII on Shwarz - Sold to Sneezy.
E34 1995 525i 5-Speed Calypso Red on Parchment - http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1748143 - Sold locally.
E39 1998 528i 5-Speed Black on Black - Sold locally.
E34 1993 M5 Alpinweiss on Black - http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...lpinweissII-M5 - Parted
Looks great sir...can't wait for more updates and pics!
Nice!
Current Garage:
91 e34 M5 - spoiled & demanding 27 y/o -glanzshwarz
91 850i/6 -another spoiled & demanding 27 y/o- schwarz-gone but never forgotten
06 325i - undeserving, spoiled & demanding 27 y/o daughter's DD-hellrot
03 MINI Cooper S JCW -spoiled & demanding, yet deserving wife's DD - Chili/Panther
05 X3 3.0i -family workhorse - diamond schwarz
12 X5 3.5d - torque monster - space gray metallic
86 GMC Cabellero - Old Faithful 32 y/o DD BMW Support Vehicle
08 Cub Cadet 19HP 46" hydrostatic- yard vehicle
88 Schwinn Sierra - 1WD Off Road Vehicle
e31 & OHC BMW CCA #385540
Whens the FI part of your screen name going to come into play?! This car is seriously clean.
subscribed
Last edited by BavariaNick; 07-24-2012 at 09:43 AM.
That's right purrty
Lol I have a few pics of her scrubbing wearing pink gloves lol, she also helped drop the rear subframe.
There will be no E36 driving to Bimmerfest
I'll get some tonight for you man.
Thanks I appreciate it!
Thanks !
Working on a few things before hand, mainly wiring for a standalone. But while Ive had things apart Ive started getting measurements done for the manifold and building adapters for coolant and oil feed and making room on the passenger side. . . . So its coming.
Yea my company has people based in Perth so I may get a free trip over with the GF not sure yet wont know till January.
Trevor see the pic below its the point where there is a notch in the side sill for both the front and rear its the actual jack point for the car, but I wouldnt use it with the M skirts on because I was worried I'd crack some plastic.
I also got the rest of brake hardware in from BMW, Im still debating on rebuilding the calipers or at the very least just cleaning them up and installing the new bleed screws and caps I have since I plan on going with a BBK in the near future.
Last edited by 93FIM5; 07-24-2012 at 10:54 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
"You may all go to Hell, and I will go to Texas."
Davy Crockett
www.Angry-Ass.com
My Build Thread Part 1, Part 2
DIY E31 X-Brace Mod and Install
DIY Rear Seat Backrest Modification for E32 Armrest
Mmmmm, I like new brake parts!
Did you actually paint the underbody / wheel wells or are they just cleaned?
My M looks like shite underneath and I will be doing exactly this in the near future with the added bonus on replaceing every brake / fuel line from the firewall back. Plus my jack point are rotted and need work. Oh joy
Yea Ive heard but a free trip is hard to pass up.
Extremely clean for the most part to check for any rust or underbody coating pealing but where I fixed the seam sealer on the bottom edges of the wheel wells I painted that with matte black, Wurth has some good products and its what I used. The only reason I painted it was so that when its washed it doesnt stick out badly its all going to get dirty again anyway.
Are you planning on replacing the hard lines as well or just soft? Ive ordered in the soft fuel lines for the car and new clamps and mounting brackets to do along with the fuel filter and I replaced the soft brake lines. Replacing the hard lines will have to be when I upgrade the fuel system and to a BBK, if I remember the lines are straight from BMW and you have to bend to fit.
BTW sorry to hear about your rust issues on the jack points, that and behind the front fenders are the reason I yanked the side skirts to check. Its amazing the amount of dirt those things collect.
"You may all go to Hell, and I will go to Texas."
Davy Crockett
www.Angry-Ass.com
My Build Thread Part 1, Part 2
DIY E31 X-Brace Mod and Install
DIY Rear Seat Backrest Modification for E32 Armrest
Yes 3 of 4 of my jack points I put my finger through. The rust didn't go too far but far enough that I need new front fenders and the jack points require rebuilding. Important as there are heavy guage vertical reinforcements under the jackpoints (in the sills) necessary to lift the car.
As you know you need functional rear jackpoints to drop the rear subframe which I will do in order to replace all the hard lines. They are actually fairly cheap at the dealer (3 fuel / 2 brake) as I will be removing the sls also. The rest of the car isn't bad and my goal is to make it look like yours when I am done including new paint. Once I get really started I'll start my own thread. Yours makes me jeally (although I paid very little for my M5 so I can't lose)
Last edited by zubbie; 07-25-2012 at 01:02 PM.
Yep I ordered hard lines for my rear and they are all straight. Everything must be bent. There is honesty not much point to buying BMW lines. Get a euro bubble flare or whatever from a local auto parts place, I think realoem provides the original length of the line before being bent.
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