Brake bleeding with DIS DIY

[champaign777]

So i left my system open for a week with brake calipers removed and I forgot to pour fluid back into reservoir

When i came back after a week main reservoir was empty
( I know my bad , but i am doing it for the first time )

Now i installed new rotors, pads, rebuild calipers and bled the system with compressor under 15 psi ( CNN method )
All went smooth , no air bubbles but my pedal is soft and i have excessive brake pedal travel

I believe this is because reservoir was empty and i probably got air into the system

I am reading this thread with a lot of good info

http://forum.roadfly.com/threads/131...1#post13121466

Tomorrow i will try to re-bleed my system +ABS with help of BMW software ( DIS )

http://tis.spaghetticoder.org/s/view.pl?1/01/48/47

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Here we go with GT1 BLEEDING
The bleeding is under service function => DCS 5.7 => Control module / hydraulics => bleeding, DCS hydraulics
I was searching this info around 1H , was really not easy to find where this option is
finally



Next you go to test plan and read 1-8 how to proceed



Basically 1-5 explained by CNN as a one man bleeding

1-man Hydraulic Bleeding Kit for those with Air Compressor!

So I used euro ATE Euro Cap for the air compressor which come with a Black Label Aluminum European Power Bleeder ( i didnt use it , only the perfect aluminum cap )



Now top fluid to MAX mark in reservoir , install ATE Euro Cap on the top of reservoir and connect it to air compressor using the quick disconnect





Keep air compressor UNDER 15 PSI ( TIS said less than 2 bar )



Now attach empty bottle to the small connector on RR caliper , release it and start to bleed with GT1 in the following order



1. Start bleeding , - it will push fluid down to the empty bottle
2. Activate pressupply pump , - this will activate pump ( more fluid )
3. Press pedal 5 times as far it is will go

Top more fluid and repeat for the LR, then RF and then LF, every time add more fluid

Now i dont have any single buble in my system but still my pedal is soft

In the end i think this is new Akebano pads problem , looks like they are total CRAP , i am going to send them back and buy some quality pads

Be ready it will be a real PITA if you do it for the first time alone

Stay tuned

[jamie123]

nice one cheers,i could not find this option in dis for my car but inpa had it.trouble is there was no instructions like dis.

[champaign777]

yaa

Bleeding with GT1 was always the question for me and i never got an answer how to do it right

Hope we will have more people to respond

[Jason5driver]

Igor,
Interesting thread...!
Just for me to understand...
You are using your laptop computer with this "Gt-1" program hooked-up to your car to run through these procedures, correct?

If you are looking for low dust pads that offer great bite, I would look at the Stop Tech pads...!
I really like them...
My previous pads were OEM.
So, going from OEM pads, directly to these Stop Tech pads, I felt that the Stop Tech pads offered a little more bite, but are more "linear" than the OEM pads.
The low amount of dust just happened to be a bonus...

I too recently bled my brakes.
I used the Motive Black Label bleeder, with the same Cnc'd red reservoir cap.

I did not fill the bleeder with any brake fluid.
I just used the bleeder to add pressure to the system, and added new fluid to the reservoir after I sucked out as much of the bad/ old fluid from the reservoir as possible.


Thanks!
Jason

[champaign777]

Hey Jason
a) Yes i am using GT1 ( DIS )
b) pads :
Akebono Ultra pads are junk
In the end i think my problem was just a new Akebono pads
Many reported the same soft pedal issue with them and I am going to return them back to RockAuto

read THIS

http://www.m5board.com/vbulletin/e39...ds-review.html

here is my problem :
Well a week become a day. I drove the car this morning and the brakes were making me crazy.
I picked up a set of Wagner ThermoQuite - basically premium OE style pads and removed the Akebono's.
The difference was apparent by the end of my driveway .The pedal feel is back to normal and the Akebono's are being returned.

But I glad i found the way how to bleed the system with GT1

c) this :
I just used the bleeder to add pressure to the system, and added new fluid to the reservoir after I sucked out as much of the bad/ old fluid from the reservoir as possible.

but instead of using Motive Black Label bleeder i used ( Euro Cap + compressor as CNN ) combination

[joako]

I am not crazy for wanting to periodically bleed the ABS under normal operation, am I?

[jamie123]

well its a sealed system so once the air is out,its out.

[jht3]

FWIW, i've been perfectly happy with Akebono Euro pads. i haven't resorted to bleeding using the service functions, but sounds like you did it right. this does activate the ABS pump, correct?

[jamie123]

stupid question but did you do the "pump pedal 5 times" with the bleed nipple still open?

[champaign777]

I am not crazy for wanting to periodically bleed the ABS under normal operation, am I?

why one should "periodically" bleed system which dont have any issue ?

FWIW, i've been perfectly happy with Akebono Euro pads. i haven't resorted to bleeding using the service functions, but sounds like you did it right. this does activate the ABS pump, correct?

Akebono Ultra is a total junk as well as Rockauto return service
I RE-installed my old Jurid and my brakes came back again

stupid question but did you do the "pump pedal 5 times" with the bleed nipple still open?

I believe this is the idea to pump pedal 5 times with an open bleed nipple to push all bubbles out
What is the point to pump pedal on a close system ?

[Aradaiel]

It's not necessary to pump the brake pedal.

As long as you don't have the precharge pump out or the master cylinder, DIS activation isn't necessary.

I can get a master cylinder to bleed 50% of the time without it, pre-charge pump always needs it.

PS, use this guy:

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/too...ci_kw={keyword}

You fill it full of brake fluid, pump it up and hook it up to the master cylinder with an adaptor (have to get it seperately)

That way you don't have to keep topping off the master cylinder with the air compressor.

[champaign777]

Aradaiel , there are many ways to bleed brakes but the way you mentioned is not the best one
This maybe faster but not as clean as using "compressor method"
This is because using "compressor method" you don't have any brake fluid to clean after this job
And if you want reuse bleeder after 1-2 years it will be dirty from the old fluid
I personally like CNN compressor method even it might take more time

[jamie123]

I believe this is the idea to pump pedal 5 times with an open bleed nipple to push all bubbles out
What is the point to pump pedal on a close system ?

well when you put it like that the answer is obvious,i thought you were supposed to shut the nipple off on the upstroke of the pedal?

[champaign777]

well when you put it like that the answer is obvious,i thought you were supposed to shut the nipple off on the upstroke of the pedal?

no worry
we all learn

also as mentioned in step 7

press brake pedal 5 times down as far as it will go
the brake fluid that escapes must be free of bubbles

[Aradaiel]

Aradaiel , there are many ways to bleed brakes but the way you mentioned is not the best one
This maybe faster but not as clean as using "compressor method"
This is because using "compressor method" you don't have any brake fluid to clean after this job
And if you want reuse bleeder after 1-2 years it will be dirty from the old fluid
I personally like CNN compressor method even it might take more time

You have your method, I have mine.

I make a living with my method and I have no fluid to clean afterwards.

I'm not here to get into a penis waving contest but my way is easier, works as well and is much easier. It also works if you're bleeding DSC with DIS.

Take it for what it's worth.

[Doru]

I have the Motive with the Euro cap, and it's pretty much the same as the Northerntool, only 1/2 price. Works excellent. Same cap assy Igor is using. the benefit is one can purchase or fabricate different adapters for different cars at a fraction of price.
However, the method I use is close to CNN's method, aka I don't fill the cylinder with brake fluid to avoid the mess, just fill the reservoir and monitor. Same as Cam's method, only one does not have to use a long hose or handle a big compressor unit.
This method is more expensive than Cam's, is the same principle, only lighter duty.

[lestat]

I just went through this routine recently.

Prerequisite:
- Motive bleeder or equivalent and able to go up to 29psi as per BMW spec.
- Fluid collector and tube to be connected to bleeding nipples.

1. Pressurise to 29psi.
2. Look for 'Ventilation' in Service Functions - DSC and follow the instructions. It will ask if it's a fluid chance, bleeding, unit replacement etc. and then prompt you to go to each wheel, starting with rear right.

Sequence is as follows:
- insert tube from collecting jar
- release bleeder screw until you see a reasonable flow (you won't have a mighty fast flow like manual bleeding)
- click to acknowledge in DIS
- hear pump activating and wait for the 2 cycles to end
- pump the pedal 5 times (bleeder screw still open)
- close bleeder screw
- go to next wheel indicated by DIS
- insert tube from collecting jar
... and so on.

It's very important to pump the pedal as per instructions otherwise it's very possible you will still have air trapped in the system.


EDIT:
I won't advise pressurizing the reservoir directly as the op suggested, you're really asking for trouble. Air puts a lot more strain on the reservoir walls as the fluid goes down, to the point where you see the joints whitening. That to me is a sign that you're getting close to popping it.

Also, for a thorough fluid change you have to stop every time fluid goes down to add more fluid, and that's a lot of times.

[casper3t]

I just went through this routine recently.

Sequence is as follows:
- insert tube from collecting jar
- release bleeder screw until you see a reasonable flow (you won't have a mighty fast flow like manual bleeding)
- click to acknowledge in DIS
- hear pump activating and wait for the 2 cycles to end
- pump the pedal 5 times (bleeder screw still open)

pump and hold on the 5th time?

[lestat]

pump and hold on the 5th time?

no holding, just pumping.

[TipsyMcStagger]

- click to acknowledge in DIS
- hear pump activating and wait for the 2 cycles to end.

BUMP

Does anyone know how long each of the pump activation cycles are?

I'm attempting to do this procedure on my E36 by manually activating the ABS pump (jumping positions 30 & 87 on the ASC relay) and I need to know ho long to let the ABS pump cycle.

This is a modified system with a hydroboost and a master cylinder from a 2004 Mustang. I've already pressure bled the system several times but the pedal still goes to the floor.

TIA.

Tipsy

[328 Power 04]

I answered the actual answer in your other thread. And the DSC system is very different than your ASC E36 system.

[TipsyMcStagger]

I answered the actual answer in your other thread. And the DSC system is very different than your ASC E36 system.

Replying to that now.

Thanks.

Tipsy