New front tires arrive
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I'm so far behind in updates I'm forgetting exactly why I did some things. My front tires weren't completely gone yet (I really like to get my full money's worth from a tire) but I think I have a track day coming up and I didn't want sticky tires on the back and old all-seasons up front. Just like the rear tires, I am not looking to spend a lot of money because I plan on getting new wheels very soon. With that in mind I got another set of hilariously cheap Sumitomo HTR ZII tires ($80 a tire in stock 225-45-17 size).
Lots more updates in the pipeline. I'll post them as fast as I can.
Last edited by BenFenner; 03-05-2014 at 09:52 PM.
Hilariously cheap for a reason, please drive carefully on those. Maybe not an issue with these cars but on LS1tech where I used to post frequently, HTR Zs were regarded as downright dangerous to drive on. They come in a popular 315/35/17 so a lot of f-body and mustang guys have used them with poor results. Hopefully they've improved the compound since then.
I share your concern with the tires. I'd never have even bought them without having experience on them beforehand. We put them on a buddy's turbo e30 (475 WHP) and they were okay (this was 6+ years ago). They didn't do anything stupid at least. This gave me the courage to give them a try for my needs. I don't plan on running them for long, and hopefully things go well.
And since this update is so belated I can actually report on their progress.
The rears went through 8 months of daily driving and 3 track days before getting close to the cords on the inside. I had them flipped side-to-side on the wheels to get another track day and a few more months out of them. They did that fourth track day two weeks ago, and I'm getting the last of their life out of them now. The fronts are still at maybe 60% life left and wearing much better because of the sane camber up front. The tires aren't great in the wet but they are fine for me. They provide decent grip in the dry, and more importantly they were plenty safe on the track. They get "greasy" toward the end of the day when I'm really booking it but they don't chunk away or do anything stupid or unsafe. They don't delaminate, they don't develop bulges in the sidewall, etc.
They squeal at the limit, which I do not like at all. Some prefer it for feedback? But I don't like a tire that makes noise in general, and it's a sign of a cheap tire to me. Quality, high-performance tires don't squeal at the limit from my experience and nothing says "newb" at the track than squealing around a carrousel. :p
In this instance, they seem to be safe, and for my specific needs were a good choice. The fact that they don't last long is even a bonus to me. When I'm unsure of a tire choice, I'd like it to wear away and give me the opportunity to try something else.
Oh I forgot, I even took them to the drag strip! I did 6 runs or so? Boy do I hate drag racing...
I feel like I'm rambling so I'll leave things here.
Cheers!
Last edited by BenFenner; 03-05-2014 at 02:40 PM.
You got a set of Apexs in the current GB, right? What spec ARC-8's did you buy? Are those 225's going on your new Apexs? If so, 225/295 is quite staggered !
Sorry if that was answered in the previous page, I admittedly didn't read through all of it.
Last edited by Eson535; 03-05-2014 at 04:00 PM.
///M
Yes Eson, I got some Apex ARC-8 wheels in the recent group buy (color was hyper silver). I went for the 17x9 up front (had to have that concave look, but would have preferred the 18.5" fitment) and 17x10.5 in the rear. I spent a loooooong time considered tire sizes, made especially difficult because of the lack of available sizes that I wanted. At the end of the day I decided I would go conservative at first and use it as an opportunity to gauge how extreme I could go with the next set of tires. With that in mind, I ended up with 245 for up front (planning on 255 eventually) and for now I went with 275 in the rear with plans of going to 295 if someone will make a tire with the correct sidewall in that width.
Another thing I did was mix up the tread compounds. I went with an auto-x compound up front and planned on an all-season for the rear. However, those stupid Sumitomo tires are cheaper than even the cheapest all-season so I actually got another set of those for the rear.
The front will be the well-known Dulop Direzza ZII.
I went with the disparity in compounds to try to limit the swing toward understeer at the limit. I'm not changing the tire width ratio too much, but I am changing it a little, and I'm also going to get rid of some of the excessive camber with spring pads so I'm expecting more of a grip gain in the rear than up front. I hope to counteract that some by going with a less sticky compound in the rear. The rear tires are by no means settled. I will go through them too in another 10 months and move onto something more suitable.
Thanks for asking, and thank you to anyone who posts in this thread. The more you post, the faster I can do updates. I can only post once a day in this thread if I want to avoid the post merging. I have updates waiting in the wings to post right now, but I have to wait a day to post. Or someone (and this would be amazing) could just post a reply that says "More updates please!" or similar and I can keep this train moving.
The tires I posted just recently were purchased about 8 months ago for the stock front wheels. I'm usually 6 months behind in updates to this thread. =/
Last edited by BenFenner; 03-05-2014 at 04:27 PM.
Instead of intentionally running two different tire compounds, don't run 295's in the rear. If you want to dial out potential understeer, try wider tires up front (255 or 265s on your 9") and narrow(er) in the rear (275). I understand that size isn't ideal for a 10.5" wheel, but that's what I would've done rather than your alternative. I would suggest you strongly reconsider running two different compound tires. Play around with tire sizes, sway bar(s), spring rates, etc. before mismatching tires on purpose.
When do the ARC-8's go on?
Last edited by Eson535; 03-05-2014 at 04:33 PM.
///M
From what I've learned from those experienced with fitting the widest stuff possible, 255 is about the limit up front without going nuts. I don't think a 265 can fit, but I'm completely open to the idea if I see for myself that it can be done with minimal work.
I'm well aware of the issues related to mixing and matching tire compounds and treads, so I feel like I've made an educated decision there. I agree there are better ways to accomplish my goal, but I'm extremely picky when it comes to modifications and I'm not prepared right now to do "the right thing" so I'm doing something else that should work, is effectively free, and easily reversible.
One of the things I'm factoring in is the inability to get heat into a rear tire of that size with my power level. I can get some heat into the fronts, but those huge rears will always stay cooler where a lesser tire might be happier. Who knows, maybe it will be a horrible idea? My next track outing will show the story and I'll adjust accordingly.
The new wheels and tires are sitting at my house right now waiting for the spring pads to arrive. Once that happens I'll get the wheels and tires mounted and balanced so I can test fit them. I'll test a bunch of spacer options and settle on what I want for those, and order some up. I'll then decide if I want to go with extended wheel studs or stick with extended bolts. So if the rears clear without spacers, I'll likely have them on the car within the next 4 weeks and just space the rears out as I find time. If the rears don't work well without the spacers, it might be 6 weeks or so. That's my best guess.
Might be the first pics of a black coupe with silver ARC-8 on the forum when that happens?
Once you post "updates please" I'll get the next one up.
Last edited by BenFenner; 03-05-2014 at 04:43 PM.
Are you ever around in Charlotte? Would love to see the car.
'98 ///M 3/2/5 - Cosmos on Dove [SOLD]
'08 335i Coupe - SGM/Grey | MHD Stage 2 93oct | Apex Arc-8 18x9.5 Black Chrome | Cp-e Charge Pipe | VRSF C****** Downpipes | VRSF 5" Stepped FMIC | AA BOV | DCI | BMS Cabin Filter | Custom-Mounted Nexus 7 infotainment tablet
First oil change
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I hate to say it, but this next update is a boring one. As you look through the images you'll see the mileage at which I performed this maintenance, a lot of silly pictures of stuff, and then a failed attempt at resetting the dash oil service internal lights. I took a lot of pictures because it was my first oil change. Future oil change updates will have 1-3 pics total.
Thread where I wanted to know the difference between the S52 and S54 oil filter kits: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...-kit-questions
Turns out the only difference is that the S54 filter comes with an extra, perforated paper element surrounding the body of the filter. So S52 owners should just get S54 kits.
Some research on the forum turned up an E36 thread about the oil lights not resetting. I likely have a dead instrument cluster battery?
If I ever have the dash out I'll see about fixing it so that will likely get done some time in the year two-thousand-never.
Oil filter was about $15 shipped and oil was $71 shipped for 8 quarts.
Pics!
There is the extra perforated paper element I was talking about.
The car loses a bit of oil between changes so I got an extra quart or two.
Last edited by BenFenner; 03-05-2014 at 09:35 PM.
My mechanic told me that on these cars you can't reset the oil interval display until it reaches the very last bar, which is a whole lot of miles. At that point it can be reset to zero.
Marty
I do believe I'm aware of all of the pros and cons, so I feel I've made an educated decision. If you think there's something I've overlooked, I'm all ears.
I realize it's not a common or traditional thing to do, and that it is often cited as a bad idea. However, I feel I'm informed enough to make my own decision on the matter. What do you think I'm missing?
Keep in mind I've done this very same thing on my other track car (that sees some street use) for over 7 years now with multiple such configurations.
I appreciate your concern. If you think I've missed something, let me know.
Last edited by BenFenner; 03-06-2014 at 08:06 AM.
Car wash
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Miles threw up on my newly painted hood. =/
Time for a wash.
Miles feels no shame.
You need some spacers asap :P
- 1of1 rebuild (build thread) -
- Wanted Car items - FS: PnP aftermarket alarm details -
- Coupe Custom Subwoofer box - FS: Z3 Coupe LED 3rd brake lights -My Website for DIY content and parts: Double Bee Garage
I don't know where you guys are getting your info, but you're somehow right and wrong at the same time.
I have studs, nuts, and spacers on the way. Not sure how or why you guys predicted it. However, they are some suuuuper cheap, horrible, 12mm spacers that I'm only using for test fitment purposes. When I know what size I really want, I'll have to decide between ECS, Turner, and Roque. Maybe others? BimmerWorld?
Anyway, it's all for the Apex wheels... So not super useful info for those sticking with roadstars.
Last edited by BenFenner; 03-18-2014 at 11:18 PM.
Haha nice! -mindreader-
- 1of1 rebuild (build thread) -
- Wanted Car items - FS: PnP aftermarket alarm details -
- Coupe Custom Subwoofer box - FS: Z3 Coupe LED 3rd brake lights -My Website for DIY content and parts: Double Bee Garage
Fender bender #2
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Long story short, a driver swung wide out of her lane in an intersection as we were both turning right. She bumped into my right rear, damaging the bumper only. She was so oblivious to what she was doing, she assumed I "went around her" and came into her.
Since we were staring down the barrel of 5 o'clock traffic we pulled off into a parking lot. The police officer couldn't determine fault so it was ruled no fault. Lesson learned. Take pictures and video of the scene BEFORE moving the cars! Also, NEVER be in the "outside" lane in a multi-lane turn.
Since I still don't have full coverage on the Coupe (I know, I know), my insurance company has no motivation to go after hers, as mine won't be paying out regardless. A FOIA request to the traffic cameras in the intersection came up empty, as they don't record (they are only there as sensors to control the traffic lights).
I've got a quote at the body shop (a good one this time) to fix for ~$400 which I will get done at some point.
This incident (and other close calls) also prompted this thread: OT: Need dash cam - getting killed out here.
Fances B Anderson
1012 Slash Pine Lane
Columbia, SC 29203
ETV469
1NXBR32E65Z353301
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(She had two lanes to herself, and she chose to swing into mine. )
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Last edited by BenFenner; 03-23-2014 at 02:04 PM.
Sorry to read about your misfortune, the good news is that all the damage is isolated to your bumper, which is about as fortunate as you can get in an accident. I'm also glad to hear you're going with another body shop this time! That first repair was really horrendous.
Although I see what you're saying, I wouldn't advice you stick to the inside lane on turns. I think it's much more common that people in the outside lane veer in than the opposite.
Funny you say that, as I've NEVER seen anyone veer inward. And certainly not in my neck of the woods. I feel most people want to experience the least body roll (SUVs everywhere!) and the least lateral Gs (OMG my latte might spill) so they tend to swing wide. I can't count on my fingers how many times I see it done on each 3-mile drive to work. Turning right, should I take the legal nearest lane? Nope. Middle lane? Nope. Farthest lane? Hells yeah!
Last edited by BenFenner; 03-23-2014 at 03:53 PM.
Since you plan on taking that to a body shop anyway, I would take a bit of rubbing compound to it to "hide" it a bit until you can get it resprayed. My girl drug the side of her car down the edge of the garage not once, but TWICE, when we moved into the new place to the point where I had to wet sand and polish. It came out decent, and "hid" the issues a lot more.
Sucks that things keep tagging ya.
- 1of1 rebuild (build thread) -
- Wanted Car items - FS: PnP aftermarket alarm details -
- Coupe Custom Subwoofer box - FS: Z3 Coupe LED 3rd brake lights -My Website for DIY content and parts: Double Bee Garage
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