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Thread: DIY, how to fix your timing chain rattle for less than $1

  1. #1
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    Lightbulb DIY, how to fix your timing chain rattle for less than $1, M5X/S5X

    Disclaimer: Remember, you are 100% responsible for whatever procedure you do to your car, this is primarily for informational purpose only.

    Following information is based directly on the E36 6 cylinders engines M50, S50, M52, and S52. For all other engines, do some research on how their chain tensioners work, it might be identical, or very different.

    None of us like a rattling timing chain, I know I sure as hell don't. But not only is a rattling timing chain an unpleasant thing to listen to, if unresolved it can have long term negitave effects on the chain system it's self, eventually leading to catastrophic engine failure from either excessively worn chain guides breaking the chain, or timing chain breakage from the excessive and unresolved chain slapping/rattle. Looking at RealOEM's image below shows why this is very important.



    1: Removal of the lower chain tensioner is very simple, all you need is a 32mm wrench or socket, it may be easier to remove if you take out the washer fluid tank, but I manged to get it out just fine without removing the washer tank.

    If you dont understand how to remove it, the Pelicans will show you the way here http://www.pelicanparts.com/BMW/tech...er-Upgrade.htm And if you still cannot figure out how to get the tensioner out, then you've got issues and perhaps you shouldn't be working on a car

    2: The lead cause of the tension reduction/loss is the internal coil spring's reduced length from it's years of service, part #11411706809. In the pictures below you can see the difference between a newer spring (longer one) I got from pelican, and the old spring that came out of my tensioner (the shorter one).

    Factory spring measurement spec is approximately 3 7/16th of an Inch (rounded off). The worn spring measured out to be 3 5/16th of an Inch. May not be much, but it does have its adverse effects on the chain tension.





    3: I put the new spring in and it cured my rattle problem, but I also came to the realization, why not just add a few washers inside the tensioner instead? By going that route you will create the same tension as what a new spring would. I took my tensioner to the hardware store and got #12 washers, only 10 cents each. I picked up 4, but only used two as seen in this picture. If however you need to add another 2 or 3 washers to rid your self of the rattle, that could be an indication of a chain guide being very worn, and should be taken into serious consideration.



    Drop the washers into the tensioner cylinder, these ones fit perfectly.



    Then simply put it back together





    4: Then put it back on into the engine, and don't forget to make sure its tightness is nice ans snug. If you have a torque wrench and a 32mm deep socket, Torque specs are, M/S50 is 37lb-ft, M/S52 is 30lb/ft (special thanks to REX1585 for that reminder) I however don't have a 32mm deep socket, so I just hand tightened the tensioner by wrench, not too tightly though, but enough to where you know its not going to back out.







    Start the car, and walla, chain noise cured, and its that simple. There is very little effort to this job, at least IMO.

    My chain rattle was occuring around 3k rpm when coming off the throttle, I haven't heard it since doing this job.

    I hope this information is helpful to everybody
    Last edited by z25is; 04-06-2012 at 05:52 PM.
    95 Hellrot/Modena 332is, 287k chassis 143k S52, 6 speed 420g, DS2's, 3.23 LSD, 97+ facelift, 96+ climate control conversion.
    98 Alpine white/Black and Tan, 328i Sedan 226k chassis 163k M52, Auto to 5 speed ZF manual swapped, E46 sport seats, 2.93 open diff, style 30 wheels, OEM M3 catback, nothing special here

  2. #2
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    Couldn't bad chain guides cause this too?

  3. #3
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    They can but thats a more rare scenario, plus that can also occur if you let you timing chain rattle and slap away at it for a long period of time, but my chain guides are currently fine though, seems the new spring, or old spring with two washers have corrected my rattle. You can obviously see the difference in the picture between the old, and new spring, clear example of worn springs.
    Last edited by z25is; 04-05-2012 at 08:49 PM.
    95 Hellrot/Modena 332is, 287k chassis 143k S52, 6 speed 420g, DS2's, 3.23 LSD, 97+ facelift, 96+ climate control conversion.
    98 Alpine white/Black and Tan, 328i Sedan 226k chassis 163k M52, Auto to 5 speed ZF manual swapped, E46 sport seats, 2.93 open diff, style 30 wheels, OEM M3 catback, nothing special here

  4. #4
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    ooh very interesting find. Might look into this depending on how I can pinpoint a source of my noise. is the rattle almost like a ticking noise? also when i first start my car and such at idle i also get some weird noises like umm an electronic rattle sound. its hard to explain... but it cuts out if i step on the gas even just slightly at idle.

    P.S. Sorry if i am thread stealing but the problem you cured is similar to a problem i have

  5. #5
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    Great Info, I know I need the new spring cause I can hear it at steady RPM @ 2k-3k but I haven't gotten around to it yet...better do so before the guides get damaged..

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by inevitable08 View Post
    ooh very interesting find. Might look into this depending on how I can pinpoint a source of my noise. is the rattle almost like a ticking noise? also when i first start my car and such at idle i also get some weird noises like umm an electronic rattle sound. its hard to explain... but it cuts out if i step on the gas even just slightly at idle.

    P.S. Sorry if i am thread stealing but the problem you cured is similar to a problem i have
    The start up ticking symptom you describe is similar to one I had during some engine start ups, but my chain rattle noise would go away after about 2 seconds, after that it was only during lifting from throttle at higher rpms such as 3k range.

    The rattle generally occurs during throttle lift because the pulling force from the crankshaft has released the chain, allowing it to go outward and whip against the guide rail due to the excessive play. But when you step on the throttle, the crankshaft drive will pull down the chain again tightening it up, which makes it quieter.

    Edit: looking at RealOEM's parts image up above will give you an idea of what i'm talking about.
    Last edited by z25is; 04-06-2012 at 01:38 AM.
    95 Hellrot/Modena 332is, 287k chassis 143k S52, 6 speed 420g, DS2's, 3.23 LSD, 97+ facelift, 96+ climate control conversion.
    98 Alpine white/Black and Tan, 328i Sedan 226k chassis 163k M52, Auto to 5 speed ZF manual swapped, E46 sport seats, 2.93 open diff, style 30 wheels, OEM M3 catback, nothing special here

  7. #7
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    FWIW M/S50 is 37lb-ft, M/S52 is 30lb/ft

  8. #8
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    nice write up i think this is Sticky potential

  9. #9
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    Very nice write-up. I don't have this issue yet, but I may go ahead and do it anyway.(181K) Thanks.

  10. #10
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    This is genius. How do you take apart the tensioner to do this tho?
    Last edited by E36B1MM3R; 04-06-2012 at 12:34 PM.
    F15E90E36

  11. #11
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    This is awesome! I just replaced my secondary tensioner, but it seems there is still a bit of rattle. Time to try this

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by zshopa View Post
    nice write up i think this is Sticky potential
    I originally tried to post in the DIY section but my account apparently doesn't have permissions to post there, but this might eventually be something to tow over to that forum, it would a good addition to that board as well

    Quote Originally Posted by 328iIsI View Post
    Very nice write-up. I don't have this issue yet, but I may go ahead and do it anyway.(181K) Thanks.
    If you're not expiriencing a chain rattle yet, you might be best leaving it alone for now, or if you really have to, add one washer at the very most. I currently believe that the chain rail was intended for a specific amount of tension, which is why I matched up the length between the two washers on a spring, to a new spring alone. Right now I theorize that if the chain guide rail was to have too much tension put on it, it could lead to pre-mature wear of that guide rail. Or it might not, but just a thought to consider.

    I may update the write up soon with spring measurements here, that way everybody can have a target spring length to aim for.

    Quote Originally Posted by E36B1MM3R View Post
    This is genius. How do you take apart the tensioner to do this tho?
    Once the tensioner is out, just pull the piston out to expose the coil spring, you should see what i mean from the pictures of the tensioner assembly in the write up, very easy

    Quote Originally Posted by Kody View Post
    This is awesome! I just replaced my secondary tensioner, but it seems there is still a bit of rattle. Time to try this
    Let us know your results
    95 Hellrot/Modena 332is, 287k chassis 143k S52, 6 speed 420g, DS2's, 3.23 LSD, 97+ facelift, 96+ climate control conversion.
    98 Alpine white/Black and Tan, 328i Sedan 226k chassis 163k M52, Auto to 5 speed ZF manual swapped, E46 sport seats, 2.93 open diff, style 30 wheels, OEM M3 catback, nothing special here

  13. #13
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    What if perhaps, the spring is not as worn as yours was? How can you measure how much washers you need with out the new coil? How many miles were on yours?
    Last edited by Kody; 04-06-2012 at 04:48 PM.

  14. #14
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    I'll report back here shortly with spring measurements for yall
    95 Hellrot/Modena 332is, 287k chassis 143k S52, 6 speed 420g, DS2's, 3.23 LSD, 97+ facelift, 96+ climate control conversion.
    98 Alpine white/Black and Tan, 328i Sedan 226k chassis 163k M52, Auto to 5 speed ZF manual swapped, E46 sport seats, 2.93 open diff, style 30 wheels, OEM M3 catback, nothing special here

  15. #15
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    Thank you sir.
    F15E90E36

  16. #16
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    Update, coil spring measurement details added to write up
    95 Hellrot/Modena 332is, 287k chassis 143k S52, 6 speed 420g, DS2's, 3.23 LSD, 97+ facelift, 96+ climate control conversion.
    98 Alpine white/Black and Tan, 328i Sedan 226k chassis 163k M52, Auto to 5 speed ZF manual swapped, E46 sport seats, 2.93 open diff, style 30 wheels, OEM M3 catback, nothing special here

  17. #17
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    I have dealt with a ton of springs in my job and while this is an awesome fix it should only be a temp fix. A compressed spring like OP had/has is just going to get worse and it is a sure sign of metal fatigue. If your spring is that compressed you should do the right thing and replace it.

    How much was the new spring?

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by flyfishvt View Post
    I have dealt with a ton of springs in my job and while this is an awesome fix it should only be a temp fix. A compressed spring like OP had/has is just going to get worse and it is a sure sign of metal fatigue. If your spring is that compressed you should do the right thing and replace it.

    How much was the new spring?
    +1

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by flyfishvt View Post
    How much was the new spring?
    I just looked it up $5.00 at pelican

  20. #20
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    yes $5 is exactly what I paid, dirt cheap.

    I've thought about the spring wear down as you were saying Fly, however for now I'm going to run it like this just to see if the rattle ever returns on this current method. Right now however all seems to be very well.
    95 Hellrot/Modena 332is, 287k chassis 143k S52, 6 speed 420g, DS2's, 3.23 LSD, 97+ facelift, 96+ climate control conversion.
    98 Alpine white/Black and Tan, 328i Sedan 226k chassis 163k M52, Auto to 5 speed ZF manual swapped, E46 sport seats, 2.93 open diff, style 30 wheels, OEM M3 catback, nothing special here

  21. #21
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    If someone could check the spring pressure with and without he washes against the pressure of a new spring would be some good info too.

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by cyberwolph View Post
    If someone could check the spring pressure with and without he washes against the pressure of a new spring would be some good info too.
    Absolutey good info. Unfortunately the washers will put even more force on that spring and it will collapse even faster than before. Its already weak.

    Dont get me wrong...you came up with a fantastic fix. You can't underestimate the potential for damage from a loose chain. Like I said...it should only be temporary until you can get a new spring.

  23. #23
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    Im trying to determine what a new noise in my car is.
    1999 M3, so I have an S52 obviously.
    car has about 139k miles.
    I get a rattle of sorts on my car precisely from 2k-3prm. It purs perfectly from idle. but the second it hits 2k rpm it gets this sort of churning sound. its hard to imagine, but very distinctive to hear. Its not a grinding or a crunching and its not constant which is why I thought it wasnt vanos. Could this spring be my problem? I also notice that your piece is covered in oil. By removing the assembly, will I also drain a good portion of oil as well? Thanks for the help.

  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bianca98
    Im trying to determine what a new noise in my car is.
    1999 M3, so I have an S52 obviously.
    car has about 139k miles.
    I get a rattle of sorts on my car precisely from 2k-3prm. It purs perfectly from idle. but the second it hits 2k rpm it gets this sort of churning sound. its hard to imagine, but very distinctive to hear. Its not a grinding or a crunching and its not constant which is why I thought it wasnt vanos. Could this spring be my problem? I also notice that your piece is covered in oil. By removing the assembly, will I also drain a good portion of oil as well? Thanks for the help.
    Try popping the hood, have someone rev steady on the rpm you hear the noise at (or diy with throttle) and pinpoint that sound. It could be anything really... If it's under valve cover its pretty easy to determine whether it's vanos or timing chain
    Last edited by Kody; 09-21-2012 at 04:00 PM.

  25. #25
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    A couple a weeks ago I also changed the tensioner spring and the "piston".
    They were so cheap to buy so I changed them as preventive maintenance, paid like 3$ for the spring and 10$ for the piston.

    Thought that the tensioner spring from 1992 might be getting old and tired even if it has under 100k miles on it.



    But I noticed something when leaning into the engine bay, if you have the car in first gear and slightly push the car backwards, like you were leaning / pusing against it with your knees when doing work to the engine. You can hear the upper timing getting loose and touching the valve cover. Do I have some issues with the upper chain tensioner also?

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