Hi there....
Does your "DSC" , "ABS" and/or "Brake" Light illuminate ???
Do you feel a funky motion on your brake pedal????
Chances are...you Wheel Speed Sensor Needs replacing.
& Today I will teach you how to do so...
So lets get started!
You Will Need:
Some Hex wrenches, Some Dielectric Grease....and of course some Wheel Speed Sensors!
* Alright...so when your cluster looks like this..its time to do something about it.
* Pop the wheel of your choice off...For TODAYS example....we will be doing BOTH FRONT wheel sensors... Jack the car up....and turn the wheel FARTHEST to the side you will be working on. This will give you the ULTIMATE clearance you need to work!
* BEHIND the wheel hub...you will find ONE, 5mm Hex bolt. Undo the bolt....and you might have to wiggle the sensor a bit to ajar it loose...No pressure...just take your time. You some pliers if you have to!
* Next......Follow the sensor wire up a bit..you will find that is its snuggled into place out of harms way...simply remove from the holding bracket.
* Once you remove the sensor from below....you will find that YEARS of road grime have accumulated. REMOVE will wire brush.
( So fresh and so clean clean! )
* Once you have taken care of down below. Its time to TOTALLY remove the sensor. Locate the junction box housing BOTH the Brake Sensor AND Wheel sensor plug. Pry the tabs to open the box.
* Locate the DARKER colored connector. THAT is your wheel speed sensor.
* The connection is held in place by a REALLY small tab. Chances are..after YEARS of road grime..and water..and dirt...it will prolly just CRUMBLE away like mine did. So PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE be gentle. Worse case scenario ....You will have to order NEW connectors all around. ( Like someone else I know! )
* Simply disconnect...and insert the NEW sensor. Make sure you have a good connection with a "SNAP" Then before you replace the sensor on the bottom..place a dollop of dielectric grease to smooth things over.
* Now route the cable accordingly..Place your Wheel back on....and guess what....
You DONE!!!!!!
The OLD Sensors....CRACKED and brittle EVERYWHERE. No wonder the ABS light kept flickin on and off!
Anyhoo.....I hope this solved SOMEONES problem....
Keep it on the real
Your Savvy E38 Tech Gal,
Miss BimmerLV
XOXO
Last edited by Miss BimmerLV; 04-03-2012 at 02:14 PM.
95 840Ci, Calypso Red/Silver, 83k - 99 740i, Black/Black, 185k, Alpina Mods - 01 740i, Titanium/Silver, 40k, Sport Pkg
Complete Turnkey Diagnostic/Programming systems available...PM for details.
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91' E34 535iM, 92' E30 318iC "vert", 00' E38 750iL "highline"
Iirc a way to test the sensors is to jack up the car and start it, then put car in neutral. Spin each wheel by hand and see if it sets off the sensors. If the sensors light up on the dash that means the system is detecting "slippage" and the sensor is working. If it does not light up that means it's faulty. This may be more for traction control than ABS not 100% sure.
This is weird!!?? Mine just started doing this after I washed my car today? Drove it like for a while to BMW Long Beach to pick up my Roundel that was stolen last Sunday during mass. Yes, I know I bought at the dealer. Got it for $23 and it's really nice.
I'd like to change it out on the 740 but I dunno which one is bad...does your fancy software you carry around in your car tell you which is bad?
Maybe we can make a pit stop on the 740 tomorrow
750IL SOLD....I'll miss you!
Last edited by Miss BimmerLV; 04-03-2012 at 07:10 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
http://i293.photobucket.com/albums/mm71/krallopian/darthSigTest2_zpsn6zkw5id.jpg[/URL][URL="http://www.facebook.com/pages/DFW7-Dallas-Fort-Worth-BMW-7-Series-Club/300942239566"]DFW7 on Facebook/URL]
"The Last Great e38" 2001 i Sport - Born'd on date 1/01 Cosmos/Grey - 32.8K miles - 2 1/2 " Custom Exhaust, Center “X”over , Modified OEM rear bumper, M5 style trunk spoiler, M6 OEM wheels, M3 Steering wheel with working paddle shift & CF trim, Bi-Xenon upgrade, 13mm Rear sway bar added, SS brake lines and bronze bushings, Cross drilled rotors and painted calipers, Akebono pads, Zionsville aluminum radiator & exp. tank with electric fan, Sprint Booster, BluTooth conversion, MKIV Nav., Custom wood cupholder, DUDMD Tune, Orien V2.5 LED Angel Eyes, Evans waterless. Recently added grey faced //M5 Cluster - all gauges functioning. Changed the grey carpet to black and topped off with GG Bailey front/rear mats[/SIZE]
Saw this on my local Craigslist (for Miss BimmerLV).
http://sandiego.craigslist.org/esd/tls/2940574214.html
http://i293.photobucket.com/albums/mm71/krallopian/darthSigTest2_zpsn6zkw5id.jpg[/URL][URL="http://www.facebook.com/pages/DFW7-Dallas-Fort-Worth-BMW-7-Series-Club/300942239566"]DFW7 on Facebook/URL]
"The Last Great e38" 2001 i Sport - Born'd on date 1/01 Cosmos/Grey - 32.8K miles - 2 1/2 " Custom Exhaust, Center “X”over , Modified OEM rear bumper, M5 style trunk spoiler, M6 OEM wheels, M3 Steering wheel with working paddle shift & CF trim, Bi-Xenon upgrade, 13mm Rear sway bar added, SS brake lines and bronze bushings, Cross drilled rotors and painted calipers, Akebono pads, Zionsville aluminum radiator & exp. tank with electric fan, Sprint Booster, BluTooth conversion, MKIV Nav., Custom wood cupholder, DUDMD Tune, Orien V2.5 LED Angel Eyes, Evans waterless. Recently added grey faced //M5 Cluster - all gauges functioning. Changed the grey carpet to black and topped off with GG Bailey front/rear mats[/SIZE]
$79 at Max's.
I purchased cheap sensors on E-Bay for around $43 or so, and of course they dont work. I am now looking to purchase OEM. Where is the least expensive place. I am looking at Pelican for $114.25, but will continue looking. Both my SPeedo and Cruise doesnt work. I tried switching them around, but still no dice. What does the passenger side rear control The Trifecta of lights have been on well before this. Funny thing is my speedo worked prior to changing out, but I thought I would just do them all with new. I destroyed my connector getting them out and had to trash them. Are new connectors hard to put on for someone with medium mechanic skills, but no soldering skills?? I broke the front drivers side sensor off inside and had to drill it out. Could this be causing issues, as the new one didnt fit as well in the socket, but I think I was able to get alot of it out.... thanks for putting up with my questions.
Regarding the price. I'm willing to bet that more than 50% of the bad wheel sensors coming off these cars could be "refurbished" since the only real problem is the wires. If you were careful you could probably clean up the wiring and put some heat shrink tubing on it and call it good.
---- Processing Individual ----
Z1XX Upholstery
Seats front and back in Epingle / leather englishgruen,
As Schl.Nr. B9EG.
Front seat backrest in Montana Englishgruen (No. 8 174 861)
Other interior equipment as for Volleder Nappa englischgruen,
Schl.Nr. P5EG
Added to DIY section. Discussion thread will remain here.
Where can I source a harness side connector? Mine crumbled when prying it apart.
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