I had to fix the vanos on my car a few weeks back because the previous owner didn't install it properly. I didn't feel like buying the $100 cam locking blocks so I decided to make my own tool and it worked GREAT! no more check engine light.
What you need is
Two 2" C-clamps Harbor Freight brand cost $1.50 each
and one 6.5" long piece of 1/4" key stock. you should be able to get this from any industrial supply store.
You have to modify the C-clamps as pictured by making them thinner in the area that the key stock will be. I used a file to do this.
Then Follow the procedure on how to get your Car to TDC and lock the flywheel. Then lay the key stock across the cams and lock it in place with your modified C-Clamps.
If you know how to do geometry you will understand why this works just as good as the expensive cam blocks.
Notice the grooves I made with the file
Installed!
I used half a channel lock for my exhaust cam sprocket rotating tool.
Hope this helps someone out!!
Last edited by vincedahl; 04-02-2012 at 09:15 AM.
I like both. Very creative.
That's great! I'm definitely going to do this when I rebuild my vanos
You are a god. Do you have any idea how many people need this? Subscribed
Bleed your cooling system http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1709482The ULTIMATE OEM Alarm/Keyless thread http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1792200
Very helpful, will bookmark for when I refresh my vanos!
It's kind of a trick to hold the key stock in place and put on the C-Clamps but with a second set of hands it shouldn't be a problem!
Thanks for all the comments! Share the Knowledge!
We need more of this stuff. I always do jobs that require special tools that can be avoided with some simple creativity. Love it
Wow very clever Too bad I bought real ones already...
Thank you! I was going to purchase or rent but was holding off until I needed them.
It's amazing how much they over price these tools, for what simple tasks each individual tool actual does.
Nice thinking. Have you tested the flex in the key stock?
On another note, I found this special tool rental package for $15/month + shipping and $100 deposit. Has TDC pin, cam blocks, chain pre-tensioner, and sprocket wrench. http://www.r-mracing.com/catalog/pro...products_id/41
Seems pretty cheap, but nothing beats DIY special tools that you can keep!
M50 3.0L stroker project: https://imgur.com/a/l8owP?nc=1
Confucius say: Buy the best, cry only once.
Good Idea! I made one out of angle iron but took much more trial and error.
I found a cheat for the timing chain tensioner tool, Instead of buying the chain tensioner tool to put tension on the chain while timing the primary timing chain to the exhaust camshaft (head gasket job). I instead used the original tensioner, took the inner cylinder and spring out and put a 1 1/2"ish bolt in the tensioner housing and screwed into the hole to tension the chain guide, but be sure not to use a bolt that will damage the housing or the guide (common sense for most). Worked very well and makes the specialty tool seem a little less special.
I just clamped vice grips on the rough cast parts of the camshafts plus marked all the orientations with a Sharpie to make sure I got it all lined back up. I think they make this way to complicated.
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Last edited by vincedahl; 04-05-2012 at 10:57 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
Brilliant, indeed.
Another great thing is that it turns the cams square as you tighten the clamps, instead of tweaking on the cams to slip the alignment tool in-place.
I used a piece of scrap aluminum, cut from specs that the haynes supplies. It was a little tough to make it square, but it works
Tbd
Great idea! Never thought of the channel locks too.
i welded my own tools, but this is muuuuuch easier! subscribed for future reference.
This is incredible. Harbor freight down the road and I was Guna get these tools for $100 cheapest. One last thought, anyone have a solution for a homemade TDC pin?
I have used the back end of a drill bit for a TDC pin. I think it was 1/4 or 5/16. It is just there to idiot proof your work. You should be using the mark on the front cover lined up with the mark on the front timing gear attached to the crank damper.
While I like the clamp method, how do you know the bar is exactly parallel to the rear surface of the head? I think I would want more bars stacked up going all the way down to it. One degree off is easy. Tops of square blocks on back of cams must be exactly square to back of head as well as to each other.
Last edited by pbonsalb; 05-10-2012 at 11:33 AM.
Are the cams always perfectly square?
The cam-locking blocks I've seen hold the cam faces perpendicular to the head, but they don't incorporate the other faces of the cam ends. This implies the faces are parallel, but not right angles. Has anybody measured a few to see if they're perpendicular?
Besian Systems Procedure:
BMW TIS:
Last edited by carwiz008; 05-10-2012 at 04:01 PM.
M50 3.0L stroker project: https://imgur.com/a/l8owP?nc=1
Confucius say: Buy the best, cry only once.
Can any of you guys explain the necessity of the flywheel locking pin? I'm not arguing whether it's important or not, but why would the crank turn at all? It's attached by chain to the exhaust cam sprocket and the exhaust cam doesn't move, so...?
Also, how to get to the hole to insert the locking pin? Driver's side from underneath?
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