Does anyone know if the pitman arm (#10 here) can be removed from the steering box without removing the steering box from the car?
I've been trying to get the center link off the pitman arm for the past 2 days. I've already broken one ball-joint press. I've tried hammering. I've tried heating the pitman arm with a MAPP torch. The damn thing will not pop free, and I'm running out of options.
I was thinking of removing the pitman arm and center link from the car so I can get at it more effectively, but I'm not sure how to remove the pitman arm. I see the pinch bolt, but I can't see how the part comes out.
Can anyone give me some tips? The Bentley is oddly quiet on the subject of the pitman arm - it mentions the removal of the idler arm, but no mention of the pitman.
Last edited by manfred235; 04-01-2012 at 04:22 PM.
I've done this job on my car last summer. Took the front subframe off, got a tie-rod removal fork, shove the fork between the pitman arm and the center link, big moofakin hammer, two hits, and it was out.
get these and go to town again
Last edited by jint45; 04-01-2012 at 03:28 PM.
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1990 M5 Euro (French)
When you say subframe, do you mean the cossmember or the front axle support?
I didn't have enough room to get a pickle fork in there before. If removing the subframe opens it up enough, that would be great.
pitman arm puller wont fit? $15 @ autozone.. good for at least 1 use
- 2000 BMW 540i/6 (Anthrazit Metallic 397)
- 2001 Buick Park Avenue Ultra (Bronzemist Metallic)
- 1964 Buick Wildcat (Sunburst Yellow / Arctic White)
Fan Blades Can Explode.. Read My Thread
I may have used the wrong terminology, but I think a pitman arm puller was what I used (and broke). I called it a press. It was this. Is that the same tool you were referring to?
I was hoping you'd say crossmember because it looks easier to drop. Is dropping the subframe (axle support) a pain in the ass?
Just remove the 2 bolts that hold the PS pump on. You can leave the PS lines and steering shaft attached. Easy.
-Kenny
'89 535i Twin Turbo Project
I used this press for mine (sorry, I don't know how to post pics from phone): http://www.harborfreight.com/3-4-qua...tor-99849.html
Fits up in there nicely with plenty of room for a ratchet. Almost broke my thumb when my center link finally popped, so definitely keep face, groin and anything important as far away as you can. Or I suppose if you leave the other side attached it would prevent he center link from falling. I apparently chose the dangerous route.
None of the tools listed or methods worked for me. I even broke the HF tool listed above. Took the entire assembly apart and went to a repair facility where the guy applied a 20 ton press on it and finally let loose with a loud Bang! It's far easier to take the entire assembly apart sometimes.
Ace
Acepilot, when you say you took the entire assembly apart, did you remove the pitman arm from the steering box? If so, how?
I have a 20-ton press at work, so if I could get the pitman off the car, the press would be an option.
I have a similar tool, but the forked side doesn't fit between the pitman and the center link. I can only get the tips of the fork to maintain contact, so it isn't able to hold properly.
I appreciate all the advice, guys. I've been soaking the part down with PB blaster every 12 hours. Hopefully that'll loosen things up and allow one of the above methods to work.
Wait.......Are you trying to remove the steering link from the steering box or from the center link???? If your trying to remove it from the actual box, then the box will need to be removed, as even if your loosen the pinch bolt there is no clearance to remove from box.
91' E34 535iM, 92' E30 318iC "vert", 00' E38 750iL "highline"
I'm ultimately trying to remove the center link from the pitman arm. I'm having so much trouble that I was thinking of ways to get the parts off the car first, so I can attack the problem from a better angle. You've answered my question well - I can't just loosen the pinch bolt to remove the pitman (and attached center link) from the car.
Ok try this I'm sure it will work.
Use a press like the one you broke.
Set up the press to pull the pitman out.
Tighten it to a point where you think it might break after( you know what I mean?)
Keep it that way, now get your torch and heat the point where the pitman arm and center link connect. After a few mins if it does not pop, use your ratchet and give a few more turns on the press( don't break it again), keep heating.
Keep your face hands etc away it will pop with a loud bang. (my customer thought I broke something in his car , look on his face was priceless)
Let us know how it works out.
That's basically what I tried yesterday, but I didn't retighten the press when I was heating the connection. I'll give it another try tonight.
I agree with keeping body parts out of the way. It's a bit unnerving knowing how much tension is on the arms of the press. A face shield (over safety glasses) is a must for this type of job - if that tool breaks, I wouldn't want it bouncing off my cheek or teeth.
91' E34 535iM, 92' E30 318iC "vert", 00' E38 750iL "highline"
I used an extension on my impact gun from above. The impact helped shake it loose. Same tool as you pictured. I'm glad I wasn't laying under it when it let loose. As described by others, the center link took a chunk of concrete out of my garage floor when it finally let go. That's all with no rust, so if yours is rusted as well, lots of PB blaster first.
Try the "two hammer" attack. Hold a heavy hammer against one side of center link where the ball joint stud goes thru. Hit the opposite side with another heavy hammer. This distorts the bore and releases the stud. As always, watch out for that flying HF tool.
It finally popped.
Last night, I greased up the threads on the press, and attached it as tightly as I could get it. Then I sprayed down the pitman/link connection with PB blaster. This morning I repeated - tightened and sprayed. Then tonight I tightened it one more time, getting the press as tight as I could manage. I broke out the MAPP torch again, heated the joint for 45-60 seconds, and the center link flew off with a satisfying bang.
Thank you everyone for the advice and encouragement.
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