'04 330ci Engine Problems

[cheapthrills]

Hi everyone,

I'm a very handy DIYer, but I'm not so hot with engine problems in general, and this is by far the most modern car I've worked on.

I bought a neglected '04 330ci with 130k miles in December, and it hasn't run correctly since I bought it. It'll mostly be fine, but under heavy throttle, especially mid-rpms and heavy load (like say 75% throttle in 6th gear on the highway, 2700rpm), it will buck and stutter.

The SES light has come on, gone away, and come back. It reads codes P0171, P0174, and P2240. The lean codes suggest vacuum leaks, so I've focused on that. Upper and lower intake hoses are new. There was a vacuum leak on the mpg meter hose in the driver's footwell, which has been replaced. The o-ring on the DISA was broken and RTV'd, so that o-ring was replaced. The fuel filter/fuel pressure regulator has been replaced, with new hoses at both ends of its vacuum line. Fixing each of these leaks made the symptoms better, but never completely solved them. I've smoke tested the intake system and it had no obvious leakage, but I'm not 100% confident in my testing.

The spark plugs were incorrect, so I replaced them with the NGK BKR6EQUP. No changes. All 6 of the removed plugs were oily. I've heard this is a symptom of the CCV.

I'm not sure if it's the CCV. All of its telltale signs point to it being OK: pulling the oil cap or dipstick will cause slight idle stutters and produce a slight vacuum. I don't want to drop another $170 on this if it isn't going to help.

A few times, I've gone to start the car, and it will crank indefinitely, and I immediately turn the ignition off, and try again and it starts normally. This makes me suspect the fuel pump. My experience with failing fuel pumps produces the symptoms I've experiencing, and would probably throw these codes as well. I've never had a fuel pump fail this slowly, however (I've put on ~7k miles so far). I will test the fuel pressure soon, but I know that flow under load is the more important reading.

Other relevant maintenance performed since I bought it:
Valve cover gasket was replaced, but the spark plug tube on cylinder #2 still has a tiny bit of oil leakage. Most likely my error.
When replacing the VCG, the vent hose to the CCV snapped. This was replaced with a (non-insulated) one.
Replaced VANOS seals with Beisan Systems seals during VCG.

So, my ideas are fuel pump, pre-cat O2 sensors, and CCV. I really don't like grabbing at $200 straws.

Also, I found this thread which suggests that I get a software update.

Thoughts? TIA.

[hooRAH]

You're hitting all the major areas.

Typically, in my experience, vac leaks will make themselves apparent at idle, but you won't notice them at speed.

Fuel pump issues will be the opposite. Thus, I would say that because this problem is happening at high load in 6th gear, its more likely to be fuel pump related.

Regardless, if the plugs are oily, you may still have a CCV problem.

A word of advice on the CCV replacement - do the oil filter housing gasket at the same time (or vice verse). You will have better access with the alternator and oil filter housing removed, and the OFHG is a common failure on these cars.

[cheapthrills]

Thanks for the input. I just wish there was a more definitive way to diagnose this.

I also forgot to mention that I do get mayo under the oil cap, and occasionally on the dipstick as well.

Good point on the OFHG. Mine is still holding fine, but it would only add $4 and ~30 minutes to the CCV job.

[telijah]

I also forgot to mention that I do get mayo under the oil cap, and occasionally on the dipstick as well.

I could be wrong, but I thought this was a sign of coolant getting into the oil, which of course could be very bad...?

[jeagolf]

you can borrow a fuel pressure test set for free at autozone that would let you test your fuel filter/pressure regulator as well as the pump. They will put a debit on your visa or bank card for like 200 bucks and when you bring it back to auto zone they release the funds back to you. Its the only way I know to cheaply test those 2 components to make sure they are good.

[cheapthrills]

I could be wrong, but I thought this was a sign of coolant getting into the oil, which of course could be very bad...?

I thought with these engines, it's normally associated with the CCV not performing properly. Oil and coolant levels are fine and have no signs of mixing.

you can borrow a fuel pressure test set for free at autozone that would let you test your fuel filter/pressure regulator as well as the pump. They will put a debit on your visa or bank card for like 200 bucks and when you bring it back to auto zone they release the funds back to you. Its the only way I know to cheaply test those 2 components to make sure they are good.

I already have a fuel pressure gauge, I just haven't done the test. However, fuel pressure at idle doesn't tell me anything about fuel flow under load.

[cheapthrills]

Had the car up in the air, all set to test the fuel pressure (my gauge doesn't have the right size Schrader valve to test at the rail), and I noticed this little problem:



This is the fuel line between the pump and the filter/regulator. I didn't really look at it when I replaced the filter a few weeks ago. I'm fairly positive this is causing my issue, and I'm super pumped that it'll probably be a cheap fix, and that this hard line has accessible hose connections at both ends. Now I just need to figure out how to source this line.

[Everett#2390]

If a removable section, as you describe a hose connection at each, remov eit and take it to a hose shop/pneumatic shop and have them make you a new one whether it would be from a hard line or hose.

[danewilson77]

Had the car up in the air, all set to test the fuel pressure (my gauge doesn't have the right size Schrader valve to test at the rail), and I noticed this little problem:

This is the fuel line between the pump and the filter/regulator. I didn't really look at it when I replaced the filter a few weeks ago. I'm fairly positive this is causing my issue, and I'm super pumped that it'll probably be a cheap fix, and that this hard line has accessible hose connections at both ends. Now I just need to figure out how to source this line.

You will need one of the fuel lines from the below link.

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...71&hg=16&fg=15

PC 2 is below... Not sure if that's what you need, but now you have all part numbers.

http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/16126752180/ES36764/

Sent from my Thunderbolt using BF.com

[cheapthrills]

Update:
I didn't want to wait for the proper pipe. I got a barb-type coupling, and used ~4ft of 5/16" (8mm) hose.

Naturally, solving one problem only brought about others. I drove to and from work Monday. I noticed that it had a slight stutter under the same conditions (mid-rpm, heavy throttle) but was much more subtle. The SES light came on on the way home. Pulled codes P0274, P2227, and P2240.

P2227 is a barometric pressure error. I guess this is built into the DME. If it keeps returning, a DME replacement is the only solution, but some people have reported intermittant errors with seemingly no harm.

P0274 is "Cylinder 5 injector circuit high" WTF is a high circuit?

P2240 is Bank 2 Sensor 1 O2, so I guess that a messed up injector on cylinder 5 would put the pre-cat readings out of whack.

So, I guess that fixing my fuel supply means that instead of misfiring on all cylinders, I'm only misfiring on one. I guess this can be viewed as progress.

Last night, I decided to pull and clean the injectors. Aside from being a really annoying job that went awry several times, nothing seemed wrong. #5 didn't seem different from the others, though I didn't do any powered flow tests.

Car had the same subtle misfire on the way to work today. I guess I'll replace injector #5. Being a fan of symmetry, I'd like to replace all 6, but at ~$100 each, there's no way that's happening.

Are there any other tests I should do to test the connection to injector #5?

[MarcoZandrini]

Did you reinstall the injectors in their original cylinders? If so, try swapping #5 with #4 to see what happens. I think injectors can be rebuilt.

[cheapthrills]

I did put them back in their original cylinders. Your suggestion would have made much more sense. Especially relocating it to cylinder #1 since that is the easiest to access, and it should make the O2 sensor fault move from Bank 2 to Bank 1. And if it was the wiring that was bad, the fault would stay on #5.

I'd really like to not pull and reinstall these things that many times. I'll probably buy a replacement, put it in cylinder #1, and put the one from cylinder #1 in cylinder #5.

For $100, I'd just replace it. I was just saying that I won't pay $600 to replace 6.

[telijah]

I was going to suggest a swap as well. Injectors can certainly be rebuilt, but you really cant tell if they need to be without a proper flow test done since it seemed to pass just a visual inspection. Also, did you do a compression test or leak-down test yet?

[slowlanemcvane]

I'd get a rebuild done on all 6 injectors. Probably would cost about the same as buying 1 or 2 new ones.

[MarkoE46]

A few times, I've gone to start the car, and it will crank indefinitely, and I immediately turn the ignition off, and try again and it starts normally. This makes me suspect the fuel pump.

I've got a simmilar problem: If I trun on the igniton and wait for a more than 20 or 30 sceonds, the the car won't start, but it would just crank indefinitely. The diagnostic throws a P0340 falut for the exhaust camshaft postion senosor.

[cheapthrills]

Update:

I take back any statement about progress. Symptoms are the same as they were in the beginning.

Fuel has been ruled out. I replaced injector #5, which didn't change anything. I used a fuel pressure gauge against the windshield, and fuel pressure was rock solid even when the engine was stuttering.

SES light hasn't been on in a while. The car has two stored codes: My good friend P2240, and P0010.

Alldata says P0010 is the intake camshaft position sensor. Though this sensor is prone to failure and can produce these symptoms, it is not the usual code that it will throw.

I'm planning on getting the codes pulled at a shop by real BMW software, and taking my diagnosis from there.

[cheapthrills]

I know I'm replying to my own reply, but I hate reading threads that have no conclusion.

This issue is solved. I updated my DME.

Apparently 2004 was the first year that MS45.1 replaced MS43 on the M54 engines, and this is a common bug. Since my car was neglected, it had never been updated. Being a stubborn DIYer, it took me weeks of research to learn how to set up and use the BMW suite of software. I used WinKFP to load the v40 spdaten files.

[Vumuudar]

How much does the dealer charge for this update? anyone?

[hooRAH]

The update is very much appreciated. I love when people update with their solution when I'm searching the board for similar problems.

If I ever get around to learning how to update the software, I might ping you for more information on the process you used.

[danewilson77]

How much does the dealer charge for this update? anyone?

They would probably charge you an hour of labor, for 5 minutes.

Maybe $100-$130

[jodawago]

This issue is solved. I updated my DME.

I used WinKFP to load the v40 spdaten files.

Can you explain more of how you did this and what tools are required to do it. I am pretty sure that will fix my issues as well. Thanks.

[cheapthrills]

You're lucky: I already wrote up a summary of my learning. Here is my copy/paste:


If you're thinking of updating your software, I just want to tell you that it's not that hard. The hardest part is gathering information, and understanding what all the programs do. I never came across a thread that didn't state things simply for a beginner without overloading them with inconsequential information. I am by no means an expert, I merely accomplished (2/3 of) my goals.

My goals for this software adventure were to be able to:
-Read codes: INPA can read codes from the engine, DSC, and airbag, as well as view live sensor data and reset adaptation values.
-Update software: WinKFP accomplishes this.
-Change all the nifty settings such as killing the 37 degree warning gong, removing beep the when I unlock the car, etc. NCS Expert is used for this coding. (I haven't gotten around to this yet.)

Some important points I've learned:
-BMW OBDII cable is slightly different from universal or VAGCOM cables. You can buy those ones and swap some pins around, or just buy a BMW-specific cable.
-You will see tons of threads about VMWare and such. This is only needed if you are running DIS, SSS, Progman, GT1, etc. These are the programs designed for dealership mechanics. They have nice interfaces, great diagnostic capabilities and are easy to use, but are a headache to set up. You can have most of the functionality of these programs with the BMW Standard Tools which install directly onto your existing OS.

For a cable, search eBay Motors for 'Ediabas cable.' They are readily available for under $30 shipped. It will most likely have a RS-232 serial to OBDII cable, and an OBDII to BMW round 20-pin adapter. The 20 pin connection will only be used on M52 engines. Since the cable has an RS-232 connection and your laptop almost certainly doesn't, you'll need a Serial to USB adapter. I got the Trendnet TU-S9 on Amazon for $11 with free shipping over $25. Load its driver and make sure your computer sees it and you can switch its port to COM1 before loading up the BMW software.

Your computer OS must be 32-bit Windows. (I believe INPA and WinKFP will run on 64-bit, but NCS will not.) Windows 7 and Vista can run the software as long as it is in compatibility mode for Windows XP. You can NOT use a netbook with Windows 7 Starter, as these compatibility modes are not present.

I used this guide to load the sofware (skip down to "The Software"):
http://www.e46fanatics.com/forum/sho...d.php?t=770882

Run INPA and confirm that your connection works and you see live data. You can also check and clear any error codes.

To run WinKFP, you need to import the latest software files. You need to download these separately. I just googled 'E46 spdaten.' It will be a ~35 MB rar file, unzips to an ISO, which contains another zip with some folders. These will have a version number attached. As far as I know, the E46 had no differences after version 32, so that or anything above will be good.

I used these guides to import the spdaten files into WinKFP:
http://bmwcoders.com/forum/1471-post12.html

I used this guide to run WinKFP:
http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1572349

Note that you should have your car on a power supply while updating your ECU. Modules don't like to see inconsistent voltages while they are being reprogrammed. For mine, WinKFP had a progress bar that took ~35 minutes to get to 100%, after which it said something like "Program ECU?" and you have to click ok again. Another progress bar comes up and it took ~3 minutes to complete.

Afterwards, go to INPA and reset all your adaptation values.

I haven't started with NCS yet. Here's my main source of info:
http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1800496