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Thread: D.I.Y Heater Control Valve Replace ;)

  1. #1
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    D.I.Y Heater Control Valve Replace ;)

    Alright Alright......I know the open hood DIY was kinda weak....

    So Here, Lemme make for it....hehehe

    Since i KNOW Most of us have Heater Control Valve issues, THIS article should REALLY come in handy. Although a tad more detailed than the article on E38.org


    Do You have EXPENSIVE leaking coolant somplace ????

    Do You NOT have heat in the winter time???

    Does Your Heater Control Valve look like its been sittin on the bottom of the ocean ???

    Well chances are, Your Heater Control Valve is BUSTED!!!!!!

    So today I will show you how to replace that.

    So lets get started


    YOU WILL NEED:

    Some Goo B Gone, A Heater Control Valve. Those 4 pipes back there, Sheers/Saw, a REALLY LOOOOONG Flat Head Screw Driver, A Box cutter, MORE Coolant, Hose Clamps, and whatever else you wanna bring to the party










    * Ok.. So....Grab your Energy Drink ( or coffee ) and ALL your stuffs and lets head outside...
    Pop the cork, You can either DRAIN your EXPENSIVE coolant at this point.....OR just place a pigmat or pan on the floor to catch falling coolant.....THERE IS A NICE AMOUNT OF COOLANT IN THE HOSES! .....Once ya do that, locate the TWO intake manifold Vacuum Hoses, all EIGHT Hose Clamps for the 4 hoses.... REMOVE the two Intake manifold vacuum hoses by simply sliding the yellow secure ring back ( if ya have one...hahahah ) and pulling the hoses out and to the side someplace. This will give you EXTRA room to work. The Split valve for which these hoses are attached can be GENTLY rotated up and out of the way if need be, or can TOTALLY be removed if desired. My Hoses needed changing so I replaced ( HUGE Diff! )



    * Then once ya do that, Begin locating the all FOUR hoses and there hoses clamps, REMOVE all hose clamps, So that you may free the hoses from the pipes.





    * Now this is the Vacuum hose splitter valve going to the Brake Booster and all that jazz, If you are VERY gentle You can easily twist it up and out of the way, to give you a lil more room. But because as you can see, My hoses are VERY old and brittle, So I just opted to REMOVE them completely and replace.



    * Alright, Here is the culprit for which causes NO HEAT, and COOLANT LEAKS.....I Give you the "Heater Control Valve " Remove or loosen rather the three hoses/clamps, attached to it. Coolant WILL fall, so just get ready for it. One you disconnect the hoses...There are TWO 12v power connectors attached to the solenoid missile silo looking things, and also to the AUX Water pump underneath. REMOVE the Solenoid Power first. Once you have everything off, Pull the ENTIRE Heater Control Valve , STRAIGHT UP & OUT, It is NOT bolted down or anything. It just sits in a little cubby hole all nice and snug THEN, you can REMOVE the power connector from the AUX WaterPump. TIP!!!!! Take your TWO power connectors, and ZIP TIE THEM sum place so they dont fall anywhere.





    * Alright, 9 times outta 10, these hoses are going to be cooked on there, so in order NOT to damage the piping into your heater core or actuator bar down below, VERY CAREFULLY slice a small portion of the hose to release the tension. and you basically just cut enough to wiggle & piniddle the hose off.





    * Once you FINALLY get them cooked on hoses off, You will notice all types of crud and gunk back and down there that have accumulated over the years.....Take your Goo B Gone and a rag...and clean all that stuff up, SPECIALLY the pipes so that everything is So Fresh *& So Clean Clean







    * Good Job!!!! Alright, Now that we have a CLEAN canvas in which to paint our picture, Lets begin by putting the hose clamps on NOW, Cuz lemme tell ya, when you get back here, there will be NO space to work, Even with small hands like mine!



    * Ok, so i found out the hard way, that there is actually an order in which SAVES you a LOT of pain when trying to put everything back together. My sacrifice is YOUR win, as YOU wont have to make my mistakes. ( and THAT is why I make up DIYs for you xoxo ) Start by connecting and tightening the hoses leading from the actuator bar down below. There are TWO attached to the bar, ( i didnt realize that when i ordered my parts, so i only bought one hose...sigh )



    * Poke the actuator hose through to the area where the Heater Control Valve to make sure you have sufficient length. Check all your tolerances as ya go also!



    * One of the hoses , that lead into the cabin from the TWO solenoids has to be cut to length, Just cut at the elbow, or size up to how YOU like for it to be.



    * Alright, now its time for that order i was talking about. THIS will save you a lot of Heartache AND Back problems ( not nice to have LARGE boobs, bent over an engine all day! ) LOOSELY set the NEW Heater Control Valve in its cubby hole, but DO NOT seat all the way, just kinda hang it for now. Unzip tie your power connecters and attach the :

    1. AUX WaterPump Power first
    2. THEN, Connect/tighten the BOTTOM actuator Hose to the "Heater Control Valve"
    3. THEN, Connect/Tighten, the FAR RIGHT solenoid Hose to the "Heater Control Valve"
    4. THEN Connect/Tighten the LEFT ( shortest ) hose to the "Heater Control Valve"
    5. THEN, Connect/Tighten ALL your ends into your "Heater Core"
    6. Reconnect the 12v Power Connector the solenoids
    And NOW, you can FULLY seat the Heater Control Valve back in place.





    * Now reconnect ALL your vacuum hoses & and whatever else you meddled with.





    * You lost prolly a nice little amount of coolant, So restore what ya lost or drained, Bleed properly.



    And guess what.....


    YOU ARE DONE!!!!

    You Prolly have heat now, NO coolant leaks to boot....hehehe How great is that!!!


    Anyhoo, I hope SOMEONE got some use out of this article.

    Stay safe & Have a VERY Happy New Year Boys & Girls

    Your Savvy & Sophisticated E38 Tech Gal,

    Miss BimmerLV

    XOXO
    Last edited by Miss BimmerLV; 12-28-2011 at 01:13 PM.
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  2. #2
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    Oh and here is the power connector setup on the Heater Control Valve.

    * Note :


    REMOVING

    Disconnect TOP Solenoid Power FIRST
    BOTTOM Aux WaterPump LAST

    REINSTALLING

    Connect BOTTOM Aux WaterPump power FIRST
    Connect TOP Solenoid Power LAST



    Last edited by Miss BimmerLV; 12-28-2011 at 01:18 PM.
    Insta: @Ella.Emanuelle.Rose

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    V12 Klubmitglied <3








  3. #3
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    Nice job. I just did mine last week in the pouring rain. They actually make a form-fitted hose for #2 that does not require any cutting. It is part #: 64218371386.

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    You are the da bomb girl!!! Now, do a D.I.Y. for overhauling our engine!!! Always great to see your D.I.Y. Maddy. Thanks for sharing it with us. Have a Happy and Prosperous New Year!!!
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    Great Great , thank you very much Maddy. and very cute too!

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    Wow... Ur good! How r those air values after replacing the vacuum hoses?
    Last edited by purplecty; 12-28-2011 at 02:16 PM.

  7. #7
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    Good job! Did mine last summer less the hoses...

  8. #8
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    Well done, as usual. We should put all of your DIY's in their own sticky, your documentation is superb!
    Jack
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  9. #9
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    Thank You everyone!!!!!


    XOXO!!!
    Insta: @Ella.Emanuelle.Rose

    1998 BMW 740iL - M62 - Projekt "Allyssa" ( Nicht Aktiv )
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    V12 Klubmitglied <3








  10. #10
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    Have you ever considered my last Marriage proposal?

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    cleanest tools i have ever seen



  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by cbtech View Post
    cleanest tools i have ever seen


    LOL.....Thats because I dont work on my car that much IF I can help it



    Last edited by Miss BimmerLV; 12-28-2011 at 05:23 PM.
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  13. #13
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    This job is actually easier on the V12 believe it or not. It's mounted on the shock tower near the hydraulic fluid canister. Often the HVC can simply be repaired by cleaning it out. The leak shown in a previous post looked like the hose clamp on the pump was actually missing or broken? If not, the leak was from the weep hole on the bottom similar to a water pump. the pump has an O ring inside that a little silicone sealant would cure. The default on these valves is open. Power is applied to close them. So if you have no heat first try just unplugging the power to them. The bottom power for the pump is just a booster. You will still have some circulation even if it's not running. With the unit removed and the hoses off, you can easily test the unit by putting the key in position 2 and plugging in both connections. The pump should be running but to see the valves operate, turn the HVAC in the car off. For those that don't know how, lower the driver side blower to the last bar, then hit it one more time. Unit goes off. You should now see the valves have closed because you are telling the unit not to send heat. You can verify it by pulling the connector on and off and watch/hear them in action. If the valves are all crudded up you can pull the unit apart to clean it. This probably means your heater core and/or radiator are all crudded up too. Time for a flush??
    Very curious why the caution on which electric connector to attach first?

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by RIboater View Post
    Very curious why the caution on which electric connector to attach first?

    Oh I only said that as obviously once you have the hoses and stuff attached and seated in the cubby hole, would be kinda difficult to attach the power to the pump dontcha think ????

    And unfortunately my HVC was too far gone........i think i thought about taking it apart, but i'm like naaaaaaaaa
    Last edited by Miss BimmerLV; 12-28-2011 at 10:27 PM.
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    V12 Klubmitglied <3








  15. #15
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    Again, great job Maddy and happy new year!





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    Quote Originally Posted by Miss BimmerLV View Post
    piniddle the hose off.
    ??? Not sure Ive ever done that or had that done....

    Great job as usual.
    Last edited by IcemanBHE; 12-29-2011 at 03:35 AM.
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    Awesome Diy . did you ever get a chance to do an autopsy to see the inside. I only have heat on the passenger side, i found this upon researching about hcv. if anyone could chime in if they've used it. http://www.ferrullimotorworks.com/#!...5252525252c-x5

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  22. #22
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    Great write-up!

    I'm looking for the part number of the hose labeled as "first hose" in your pictures. I've searched in realOEM and other places and all I've been able to find is people asking the part number for that particular hose. RealOEM shows that hose being a really short one that connects to one of the outlets in the firewall.

    The entire hose kit number will also help.

    Any help will be greatly appreciated -- mine decided to crack when I went full throttle.

    Thank you.

  23. #23
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    Well Hello There.....


    Glad You Found My D.I.Y. Helpful.....I Actually Forgot I Did This One.....

    The Part Number That You Seek Are As Follows:

    64218390356 = Hose Number 1 From The Picture Above I Believe....( Part #7 on RealOEM)

    But Hier Are ALLE The Hoses That Belong To The Heater Control Valve, REAR Water Pipe, And to The Heater Core...

    Alle These Numbers Have Seem To Have Been SUPERCEEDED Since I Did This D.I.Y. ..... So Make Sure You Get The UPDATED Part Numbers.....But RealOEM Seems To Tell You Alle of That <3

    https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=GH83-USA-05-1998-E38-BMW-740iL&diagId=64_0621

    The Hoses That You Will Receive in Real Life..Look NOTHING Like The "Drawings" That You See on REALOEM...So Please Dont Let That Scare You When You Get Them.


    I Hope That Helps!!!!

    Hugs & Love


    xoxoxo
    Last edited by Miss BimmerLV; 09-27-2016 at 11:34 PM.
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  24. #24
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    Hi Miss BimmerLV -

    Very impressive thread - thank you! However I'm desperately looking for answers for a heating problem I have with my Webasto pre-heater.

    Every time I google/search for a fix your post comes up and I'm wondering if this is what I need to do! My overall regular heating system works in my car when the engine is on - no issues there - but when I turn on the Webasto heater I can hear it running but no heat comes out...

    Do you think I need to go through your D.I.Y to fix this? It just seems like your guide is if people have problems with overall heating!

    Hope you can help
    Thanks
    PIPS

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    I hope I don't ever have to do this...
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