How can i replace my valve stem seals without removing the head???

**centege** · 03-23-2011, 03:22 PM

Someone please help me!

I have 2002 525i that has an oil leak going into the combustion chamber and getting spark plugs 5 & 6 wet with oil causing a misfire.

I would like to replace my VALVE STEM SEALS and was wondering if someone can please help me on this. I am basically trying to replace them without having to do too much work such as removing the entire head.

Can someone please help me with a DIY ON REPLACING VALVE STEM SEALS?

Pleaseeeeeeee help...............

**sealbeach740** · 03-23-2011, 03:30 PM

You can't. You have to take the valves out to replace valve stem seals. The only way to take valves out is to pull the heads.

That said, why are you so sure it's valve stem seals that are leaking? That isn't a very common problem with our cars. Have you pulled the valve cover to take a look yet? Could it be a head gasket problem?

**centege** · 03-23-2011, 03:34 PM

Head gasket has already been replaced, about a 18 months ago.

**centege** · 03-23-2011, 03:37 PM

Also got no smoke but using up a lot of oil, about 1 quart every 2 weeks.

**crdiscoverer** · 03-23-2011, 03:37 PM

First of all, STOP USING CAPS!!! We're not yelling here.

Secondly, using "words" such as some1 would not make anyone take you seriously, or think you're older than 14.

Now, my car had a pretty severe oil consumption problem, which turned out to be the valve stem seals. I don't know how common or uncommon this problem is, but I had it. In my opinion a lot of oil-burning E39s have bad valve stem seals and the owners start replacing a bunch of other stuff (CCV).

You DO need to remove the head to replace the seals. There is no other way around it. You'll also probably need to take your car for a valve guide rebuild. And start getting all the gaskets and seals that can't be reused. Even better, get the full gasket kit.

**centege** · 03-23-2011, 03:41 PM

Sorry about my abbreviations, also not trying to yell just very desperate on resolving this problem.

So when you removed the head, did you have it redone or just replaced the valve stem seals that come with the kit?

**crdiscoverer** · 03-23-2011, 03:45 PM

Originally Posted by centege

Sorry about my abbreviations, also not trying to yell just very desperate on resolving this problem.

So when you removed the head, did you have it redone or just replaced the valve stem seals that come with the kit?

I got the full gasket kit (Victor Reinz), it comes with everything from the head up. It has a BMW part # but I don't have it at hand. Also, it's gonna be different since yours is a 525i.

A shop took care of rebuilding the valve guides. Changing the stem seals without rebuilding the guides, at least in my case, would've been useless. After that I got no more oil consumption. It was the REAL solution to my problem. And take it from me, I replaced almost everything else before that. Including the CCV and all hoses/gaskets connected to it. I also used all kinds of oils on Earth.

EDIT: This was the kit:

With this I'm not saying I'm 100% that's your problem. You should check your CCV first since it's way easier and cheaper to replace.

**centege** · 03-23-2011, 03:53 PM

I see, so what you're saying is remove the head and take it to the shop together with the valve stem seal kit and have them rebuild the valve guides and replace all seals, right?

**centege** · 03-23-2011, 03:55 PM

Also wanted to point out that I have already replaced my CCV as well and this did not fix my problem either.

**crdiscoverer** · 03-23-2011, 03:58 PM

Originally Posted by centege

I see, so what you're saying is remove the head and take it to the shop together with the valve stem seal kit and have them rebuild the valve guides and replace all seals, right?

That's what I did. At first I thought about replacing the seals only, just like you. But then we realized the guides were also shot, not sealing properly against the seals. Your mileage may vary though. If you have some way of verifying if your guides are still in good condition, why should they be rebuilt?

**centege** · 03-23-2011, 04:01 PM

Do any head bolts need to be replaced? Anything else need to be replaced while its all open?

**crdiscoverer** · 03-23-2011, 04:03 PM

Originally Posted by centege

Do any head bolts need to be replaced? Anything else need to be replaced while its all open?

Not that I can think of. Reusing the bolts should be fine if they are in good condition. And the kit contains everything including new VANOS seals, which is a good thing to replace when you take the motor apart. If you want better-quality VANOS seals, you can get the Beisan ones (will last longer). I just used the one within the kit.

Check this link out:

http://www.aa1car.com/library/ar696.htm

**centege** · 03-23-2011, 04:11 PM

Would you happen to know if there's a DIY or Step by Step ON REPLACING HEADS on the forums or somewhere else.

**crdiscoverer** · 03-23-2011, 04:13 PM

I think there is. Check the DIY section on the main page of the E39 sub-forum and start familiarizing with it.

**centege** · 03-23-2011, 04:20 PM

Great, let me start looking into it. Thank you.

**centege** · 03-23-2011, 04:28 PM

So far I haven't had any luck finding a DIY on Replacing the Head? Does anyone know where I can find this info?

**Vipsa** · 03-23-2011, 04:42 PM

IIRC correctly the E39 uses stretch bolts for the head. While you might get away with reusing them, it is strongly recommended that they be replaced whenever the head has to be removed. Also, seeing you've had head gasket done already, it's possible that the shop already re-used the old bolts once. If that's the case, you definitely need to get new bolts. I might be way off here though.

Edit: According to ECS and Pelican on M54 head bolts: "You cannot and should not reuse the cylinder head bolts. These are what are known as stretch bolts and are designed for one time use only. Reuse can cause improper head torquing and cause leaks and premature failure later on"

**bimmerfiver** · 03-23-2011, 05:00 PM

Originally Posted by centege

So far I haven't had any luck finding a DIY on Replacing the Head? Does anyone know where I can find this info?

Bro. To be direct and honest, if you need a DIY for head removal, you're starting a baseball game your arm can't make through the first five innings.

DIY for head removal? Jackcat did his engine soup to nuts, I believe. You're asking for something that might require research and more on your end.

**centege** · 03-23-2011, 05:03 PM

Hahaha, I don't need a DIY for head removal. I need a DIY for when I put them back, such as torquing, etc. and what to look out for!

**centege** · 03-23-2011, 05:05 PM

Originally Posted by Vipsa

IIRC correctly the E39 uses stretch bolts for the head. While you might get away with reusing them, it is strongly recommended that they be replaced whenever the head has to be removed. Also, seeing you've had head gasket done already, it's possible that the shop already re-used the old bolts once. If that's the case, you definitely need to get new bolts. I might be way off here though.

Edit: According to ECS and Pelican on M54 head bolts: "You cannot and should not reuse the cylinder head bolts. These are what are known as stretch bolts and are designed for one time use only. Reuse can cause improper head torquing and cause leaks and premature failure later on"

Yes, this is what I thought, and also easier to break when torquing.

**nighttowl** · 03-24-2011, 01:08 AM

BS. you can do it. they sell kits to remove the valve locks, and i have one. i bought it on ebay, and it has a hose that you an presureize the cylinder to hold the valve up. old timers can remember the days of filling the spark pluk hole up with rope, then moving the piston up to hold the valves all the way up also while you remove the valve locks.

this is similar to what i have, though not as deluxe. i paid 175 for mine 4 years ago.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Valve...motiveQ5fTools

**centege** · 03-26-2011, 05:36 PM

Originally Posted by nighttowl

BS. you can do it. they sell kits to remove the valve locks, and i have one. i bought it on ebay, and it has a hose that you an presureize the cylinder to hold the valve up. old timers can remember the days of filling the spark pluk hole up with rope, then moving the piston up to hold the valves all the way up also while you remove the valve locks.

this is similar to what i have, though not as deluxe. i paid 175 for mine 4 years ago.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Valve-Spring-Remover-Installer-Compressor-Tool-Kit-Set-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem564321b425QQitemZ37049 3469733QQptZMotorsQ5fAutomotiveQ5fTools

This is great news, I am really going to look into this, thank you.

**centege** · 03-26-2011, 08:24 PM

Originally Posted by nighttowl

BS. you can do it. they sell kits to remove the valve locks, and i have one. i bought it on ebay, and it has a hose that you an presureize the cylinder to hold the valve up. old timers can remember the days of filling the spark pluk hole up with rope, then moving the piston up to hold the valves all the way up also while you remove the valve locks.

this is similar to what i have, though not as deluxe. i paid 175 for mine 4 years ago.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Valve-Spring-Remover-Installer-Compressor-Tool-Kit-Set-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem564321b425QQitemZ37049 3469733QQptZMotorsQ5fAutomotiveQ5fTools

So how would I remove the camshafts using this tool and without removing the head, would you know how?

**Poolman** · 03-26-2011, 09:28 PM

Look up a thread started by Jackcat, he came up with a way to remove the cams without breaking them. The cams are hollow and if not removed correctly they will
crack. Gotta be carefull.

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How can i replace my valve stem seals without removing the head???

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