E36 Aluminum Door Panel Install

[NakNak]

Thought I would share my experience with this install since I have seen a few people ask about it. NOTE: Please be warned that I am an amateur at best mechanic and that half my car is held together with 3M tape and zip ties so my install may not be the best solution!

Tools:
-Klein Tools 76011B Nibbler Tool- Amazon $21.69
-45 Piece Threaded Insert Riveter Kit- Harbor Freight $14.99
-Dremel (just to sand down the inner door handle hole)
-Sharpy
-Scissors
-Drill (Large bit for starter hole for nibbler and bit slightly larger than 10-24 threaded rivets)

Materials:
-(24) 10-24 Bolts (More if you decide to have more holes)
-(24) washers for Bolts
-Extra Nut Rivet Threaded Inserts- Ebay $11.50

I started off with pre-cut aluminum doors from Bimmerworld . The first thing that I did was trace the aluminum doors onto the cardboard that they came in and cut them out to the same size. I then taped the cardboard to the door and measured where the door handle is, traced it onto the cardboard, and then cut it out.



I then put painters tape on the aluminum door panels close to where the handle was to be traced on as well as around the edges (to be explained later), and then I traced the door handle hole from the cardboard panel onto the aluminum panel.



Then I used a large drill bit to drill a large hole close to the edge of the door handle hole.



I used a nibbler to cut the hole in the aluminum (could possibly use a Dremel). The nibbler simply takes small chunks at a time out of the aluminum fairly easily and you just go around the pre-traced hole. Afterward I used a dremel to smooth the inside down a bit.







I then put the aluminum door panel up to the door and marked where I wanted to drill with a pen (which is why the tape around the boarders are important). I then drilled through the aluminum and into the door at the same time.



I used a threaded insert riverter to insert threaded rivets into the door.





This tool allows you to squeeze the threaded rivets into the hole so that you can screw in bolts in times when you are unable to access the back of the bolt to put on a nut (nifty!).





I drilled 1 hole at a time and would constantly install the screws along the way to make sure that when tightened down, the next hole would still be put in the correct place.



After drilling all the holes and painting (optional) I used the bolts and washers to simply attach the panel to the door. I also put some strong tape around the door handle hole to make sure no one gets cut.

[SixSquared]

I'm not being an ass, but why take the time to do aluminum door panels and leave the window motors in? I'm genuinely just curious. And stock glass, too.

[etech]

I thought you're swapping aluminum doors from a LTW or something...

[NakNak]

I'm not being an ass, but why take the time to do aluminum door panels and leave the window motors in? I'm genuinely just curious. And stock glass, too.

I still drive the car to the track, plus the reason for the threaded nut inserts as apposed to straight rivets is so that I can take the panels on and off in case I wanted to remove or work on the window/motor later.

[ialevy]

I'm not being an ass, but why take the time to do aluminum door panels and leave the window motors in? I'm genuinely just curious. And stock glass, too.

Because it lets you secure the car at night.

Door panels are in the way of a cage.

Nice stock door panels are worth $

Those were my reasons!

Nice write up! I used nutserts too..

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk

[snk328is]

Excellent write-up! I didn't know there was such a thing as a threaded insert riveter. I must not be spending enough time at Harbor Freight. I could have used that tool for a lot of things...

Another reason why you might leave the window/window motors in is because in some racing classes, you are required to leave them in unless the cage bars intrude into the door cavity. Aluminum panels are allowed but the door guts must remain in place.

[krisko]

I can think of a lot of reasons to leave the guts and windows in the door. Security is the main one for me as I don't trailer to the track.

Nice writeup! My door panels look like ass so I might visit this DIY in the future.

[wannabearacer]

Nice Job.

I just learnt about threaded rivets...cant believe I never saw them.

Dont worry about those guys. If it is a track car leave the windows and heater for now....you wont be sorry!!

I have a race car that I did not take the windows out of yet and I was soooo happy to have the twice this year while sitting on the grid in pouring rain.

Many of us have a lot of improvements in our driveing skills to be faster before the 50 or so pounds of glass is going to make a huge dofference.

[Def]

"Threaded rivets" are commonly called nutserts if you want to find some more info.

I might go nutserts vs. rivets on my S13 aluminum door panels (stock panels weigh an amazingly heavy 6 lbs each).

[turbosporttsi]

"Threaded rivets" are commonly called nutserts if you want to find some more info.

I might go nutserts vs. rivets on my S13 aluminum door panels (stock panels weigh an amazingly heavy 6 lbs each).

Depends on the style. Some go by Rivnuts

I like the idea of nutserts for the panels... makes a lot of sense when compared to regular rivets.

So the window motor doesn't hit the panel? I have been wanting to do the aluminum panels for a while not but it looked to me like I would have to use some nylon spacers or something to keep the motor from pressing into the panel.

[Def]

I've heard of rivnuts as well, but in the US I think the term nutsert is about 100x more common.

[NakNak]

Depends on the style. Some go by Rivnuts

I like the idea of nutserts for the panels... makes a lot of sense when compared to regular rivets.

So the window motor doesn't hit the panel? I have been wanting to do the aluminum panels for a while not but it looked to me like I would have to use some nylon spacers or something to keep the motor from pressing into the panel.

The motor slightly presses against the panel but not by much and doesn't cause any affects to the window.

[davesnavy]

I purchased a set of panels for my E30 from this guy. Phil@BurkeBuilt.net They fit perfectly and were an easy install in the event someone (as I did) wants to install, but not fabricate panels. They were delivered for $165.

Nice job on this fabrication. Could use another coat of paint??

[98_1LE]

Looks like good race car work to me.

[saint166]

i love when i see a guy fabricating . one small thing that would have made them look very trick was fitting the stock trim around the handle instead of the tape

[tuckersmg]

I used door edge molding that you find at NAPA/Autozone to cover the edges around the door handle.

[NakNak]

i love when i see a guy fabricating . one small thing that would have made them look very trick was fitting the stock trim around the handle instead of the tape

I couldn't find mine . Maybe I will find some for cheap and get them in there somehow

[Brent]

that looks pretty darn good, is there enough strength in the aluminum to close the door by grabbing at the handle cut outs?