DIY Timing Chain Guides-01 740 M62TU

[GSXRliterbikz]

So I had another thread a while back that had alot of pics but it wasnt a diy. At the suggestion of Edwin I thought I would compile it all and share it.

First of all, I'm not a professional. I just love DIY. So the info here is is just meant to help. I make no guaranties and take no responsibility for the info posted here.

So here is my parts list.
32-41-1-093-596 Seal ring x3 (ps lines)
32-41-1-093-598 Gasket (ps lines)
11-53-1-710-048 Water pump o-ring x2 (lg pipe)
11-53-1-711-381 Hose (hose to exp tnk)
11-53-1-711-384 Water hose (hrd pipe to trns cooler)
11-53-7-501-777 o-ring (o-ring for above pipe)
07-12-9-952-113 Clamp (for hose to exp tnk)
11-51-1-731-372 Gasket Asbestos free (water pump)
12-61-1-744-292 Gasket ring (oil lvl sensor)
07-11-9-963-300 Gasket ring (o-ring 4 drain on alt)
11-61-7-501-563 Rear cover (osv)
11-61-1-440-135 Jet pump (broke mine)
07-11-9-901-511 O-ring x2 (air pipe in front of covers)
11-72-7-505-259 Secondary air pump gasket
12-31-7-507-996 Alt. gasket
13-54-7-510-433 Gasket (throttle gasket, o-ring)
13-64-1-437-474 O-ring x16 (injector o-rings)
11-14-1-742-042 Valley pan (buy the plastic cover too)
11-15-1-705-301 Vent pipe
11-14-1-275-466 Front crank seal
11-15-1-705-272 Oil separator (under timing cover)
11-31-1-745-406 Guide rail (lt side)
11-31-1-741-236 Tensioner
11-31-1-741-777 Deflection rail (u shaped one)
07-11-9-963-355 Drain plug
11-12-9-071-590 Valve cover gasket (lft)
11-12-9-071-589 Valve cover gasket (rt)
11-12-1-726-537 Bushing x16
11-12-1-721-879 Valve cover gasket seal x6
11-14-1-436-978 Gasket set (lower cover)
11-14-1-741-532 Profile gasket (upper cover 1-4)
11-14-1-741-533 Profile gasket (upper cover 5-8)
11-14-1-435-023 Gasket x2 (vanos solenoid)
11-13-1-742-109 Gasket (upper oil pan)
11-43-1-715-614 Flat washer
11-43-1-707-164 O-ring
11-13-1-436-324 Oil pan gasket (lower)
11-15-1-736-140 O-ring
11-15-1-747-978 O-ring
11-15-1-439-989 O-ring
11-61-1-745-195 O-ring
11-61-1-729-727 Intake gasket (throttle to intake)
11-61-1-729-728 Intake end gasket (intake to osv)
11-61-1-433-328 Intake manifold gasket x4
11-53-1-710-055 Water pump o-ring x2 (small tube)
07-11-9-963-200 Seal ring x2
13-62-1-433-077 Coolant temp sensor w/o-ring
13-72-1-736-675 Air filter
11-14-1-736-758 O-ring (under 1-4 timing cover)

There are probably some things I'm missing (cant find all receipts). Also, there may be somethings you could reuse. This list just gives you an idea of whats needed. I was doing ps lines at the same time so I have some washers and o-rings listed here that might be for those.

To begin with, find TDC and install a flywheel pin (sorry, no pic).
I then removed everything from in front of the motor. You could go about that however you wnat in whatever order you want.

I started by unplugging all the wires that come from the electrical boxes on top of the motor.

Next was the fan and shroud.


Radiator and tank


Then all this crap can come out. Hoses, belts, pullies, air hose and pump, water pump, tensioner pullies...


Then I moved up top and remover the ele. box and unbolted the fuel rail. Its possible to eliminate steps here by just removing the whole manifold with boxes and fuel rail and injectors still attached. I wanted to replace all the injector o-rings and clean the intake, so I took it all apart. A good idea before starting this project is to depressurize the fuel system so it doesnt leak everywhere when you pull the injectors.


Throttle body removed


Here is the pullies and pumps removed. Next I removed the dipstick and alt.


Intake removed. Stuff or tape off the intake ports to prevent stuff falling in. Now is a good time to check the rear water hoses for signs of wear. Also look over the rear coolant manifold. I left mine in place, but it would be super easy to pull it and replace the gaskets.


This tube was replaced. I think I forgot to list it in the parts list above.


Valve cover removed. This nut was loose on my car.


Upper covers removed. To do this the vanos seals come off as well as the chain tensioner on the pass side cover(cyl 1-4). I have a close up shot of it a little further down. Tie the chain together so it doesnt skip teeth, unless you plan on timing the motor (I say its a must), then it wont matter.


Valley pan removed, and coolant pipes. You can see the zip-tie holding the guide rail and chain together. I didnt mess with the knock sensors. I was told they are super sensitive and need to be torqued to a very specific number to work right. It wasnt a big deal to work around them. I suggest replacing the black plastic cover on the valley pan. Mine was super brittle and broke most of the tabs holding it on.


I didnt take a pic of the old rail still on, or me using the crank holder to pull the Jesus bolt off (sorry). The green dots are the bolts for the u shaped rail. The lower rt bolt would be a pain in the rear with the chain still on. Not even sure it would be possible. Red dots are the rt side guide rail. The lower one is just a snap in piviot point and the upper one is a bolt. There is also a bolt just below the upper red dot that fastens the oil seperator to the rail. You can see it in later photos of the reassembled rails. Yellow dot is the lt rail bolt. It has some parts that connect to the u shaped one. Just below the lt exhaust cam you can see a green o-ring. Replace that. Its for an oil passage to the chain tensioner. I forgot to order it and that held me up a couple of days. Now is a good time to clean all gasket surfaces. Also, to remove the lower cover there are 6 bolts on the underside of the cover. 5 inside the oil pan and one just outside it on the drivers side.


Here is the new rails installed. You can see the new oil separator behind them. The green box is a grub screw that holds the oil separator in place. The red box is the bolt that I think would be difficult to remove with the chain installed.


These are the cam locks used to time the motor.


Another close up of the rails. You can see alittle better the grub screw and the bolt I mentioned would be hard to remove with the chain in place. You can see its recessed into the rail so that the chain covers part of it.


Lower cover back on. I chose to not remove the upper oil pan. Instead I bought a new gasket and cut the section that was exposed. When reinstalling I used sealer where the cover met the upper oil pan and engine block. I put a new crank seal on too. To install the cover I was told to push down firmly and tighten the lower two 13mm bolts on the front of the cover, then alternating lt to rt, do the all the front bolts. Then tighten the bolts on the underside.


Just before installing the upper covers I put some sealer on the joint where the lower and upper covers meet the block. To reinstall them temp. put the valve covers back on. There are two ways. BMW makes a special shim that goes between the valve cover and upper cover. I just doubled up the old gasket. As you tighten down on the valve cover it pushes the upper cove down. Once the upper cover is level with the head, install the upper cover bolts in a alternating, lt to rt pattern. Once their tight, remove the valve cover and check to see if the upper cover is level with the head. If its not do it over. It took me two tries on the first side to get it right. Check the pdf in the diy section for torque specs.



Here is the other side. After its in, install the tensioner.


Here is the crank holder puting the crank bolt on. You can also see the new vanos seals installed.


Here is a shot of the chain tensioner on the pass side upper timing cover. There is a metal crush ring that should be replaced.


Make sure you clean all the o-ring spots too.


Here is the dipstick hole. I installed a new o-ring and metal washer.


Now its just a matter of reinstalling stuff. I'll post up some pics of various parts. Depending on what order you took stuff off will determine how you put it back on. Just remember to lube all your o-rings as you put them in. You dont want them tearing or not seating right. Dont forget the injector clips (like I did) if you removed them.

New valley pan.
Water pump and tubes.


This coolant pipe go's to the trans cooler.


OSV tube.

Dipstick and ps pump reinstalled.


OSV and hoses, also new jet pump that broke when I was removing it.

Intake reinstalled.


Throttle body and air pipe reinstalled. The o-rings on the air pipe were a little tricky to seat right. Oil them and take your time.



Thats pretty much it. If you have any questions let me know. I'll try to help as much as possible.

[IcemanBHE]

Good job. Ill copy this to the DIY forum.

[cazal740i]

Droool to your knowledge and Know how
Now how does she run??? Yout ube video of a start up and idle

[GSXRliterbikz]

In my other post, started timing guides had a few questions, I posted the videos

Sent from my SCH-R880 using BF.com

Here is the videos of initial start up.

[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aRPj7zXPS1I&feature=player_detailpage[/ame]

[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uMV5MalTLFw&feature=player_detailpage[/ame]

[jg528i1998]

Excellent write up.....thank you.

Excuse the dumb question but are the cam shaft locks and various other mechanical devices really needed for this job i.e. just to remove the timing chain guides ?

Assuming that the timing is at TDC and there is a pin holding the flywheel in place, shouldn't it be possible to do this without those other tools?

Also, with the tension guides out of the engine, can the timing chain be easily removed/replaced?

Just curious in case I have to replace mine at some point

[GSXRliterbikz]

I would not recomend it. my motor was out of time when I checked it. Must have been that way for a while. I suppose it would be possible, but it was cheap money to rent the tools. And with the tools, its not difficult to time it.

Sent from my SCH-R880 using BF.com

And yes, with the tensioner out its not hard to remove the chain

Sent from my SCH-R880 using BF.com

[Sabreslight]

Good write up

[ryunk]

This is good.

[Edwin NL]

THANK YOU!

Great write up! great info!

[cazal740i]

1st video sounded like death...Second video was pure pleasure...Like a New engine///Awesome write up and awesome work!!!!..What did u do different in the second video?...Did u have a vacuum leak in the 1st start up:?

[GSXRliterbikz]

When installing the flywheel pin, a tab on the flywheel got a little bent. I forgot to push it back in place. So when I first started it, that tab was hitting something in the bell housing. I pushed it back and for the sec. vid. all was good. The car runs better than it ever has since I bought it 2 years ago. Tons of power.

[trialbyfire38]

Did you need a special puller to remove the crankshaft pulley hub or deos it even need to come off to remove the lower timimg case? I am about to replace my chain guides and have no manual.

[AquilaBMW]

I am re-inspired. I think I am going to go for it, worst case is I blow up the engine....

[01740ISP]

Great DIY and thanks for taking the time to document your work. If you don't mind me asking, how many miles on the car when you decided to do redo the timing guides?

-Messan

[GSXRliterbikz]

Did you need a special puller to remove the crankshaft pulley hub or deos it even need to come off to remove the lower timimg case? I am about to replace my chain guides and have no manual.

Yup, I needed a special crank holder to remove the bolt. Search for user name chester. He has a holder that he modified and he rents it out.

Great DIY and thanks for taking the time to document your work. If you don't mind me asking, how many miles on the car when you decided to do redo the timing guides?

-Messan

I had 125k. I only did them because I had a oil leak through the front main seal. I figured if I'm in that far its no more work to pull the cover and do them.

[sfgearhead]

OP - great writeup. Subscribed!

I am re-inspired. I think I am going to go for it, worst case is I blow up the engine....

Nah, you won't blow it up. Get the cam timing right and it's just work. To be safe you can spin the engine by hand before starting to make sure it all spins freely.

Glad to hear you're thinking of tackling this. If you were closer I'd lend a hand. And no you can't drive it up here and park it in my tiny garage!

[AquilaBMW]

OP - great writeup. Subscribed!

Nah, you won't blow it up. Get the cam timing right and it's just work. To be safe you can spin the engine by hand before starting to make sure it all spins freely.

Glad to hear you're thinking of tackling this. If you were closer I'd lend a hand. And no you can't drive it up here and park it in my tiny garage!

I now have the garage set up, so I might start looking into this. I have some more immediate things to do first, then...... ..

Don't you want to drive the car for a while?

[meteck]

Totally awesome! Great job!

[trialbyfire38]

I have my engine at TDC on Cyl 1 and my two front (CYL 1)cam lobes are not pointing in at the same angle like in the pics and the pdf I downloaded. The intake is more advanced than the p { margin-bottom: 0.08in; } exhaust. Does this mean that the VANOS has someghow slipped? Im in the beginnings of replacing the tensioner rails and tensioner and have no manual. It is a 99 740i M62tu

[Route 66]

Top notch work. I think that the hardest part of doing this is not to miss any steps, getting ahead of yourself or making sure of the proper torque specs when reassembly is being done. I Think that is where many people begin to make mistakes, and causing something not to be reassembled correctly. Thanks for posting.

[blacksport]

I have my engine at TDC on Cyl 1 and my two front (CYL 1)cam lobes are not pointing in at the same angle like in the pics and the pdf I downloaded. The intake is more advanced than the p { margin-bottom: 0.08in; } exhaust. Does this mean that the VANOS has someghow slipped? Im in the beginnings of replacing the tensioner rails and tensioner and have no manual. It is a 99 740i M62tu

There are 2 marks on the main pulley are you sure you have OT on the main pulley lined up with the TD mark on the timing cover ??

There is a 45 degree mark also on the main pulley if I remember correctly so make sure you dont have the 45 degree mark on the pulley lined up with the TD mark on the timing cover by accident

[Biped]

Curious where you got your timing chain guides from. Online or stealership ? My local BMW parts guy can't seem to find any other worthwhile source but the dealer.

[trialbyfire38]

Can someone tell me where to find the "TD mark on the timing cover" I am just going by the "A", "E" markings on the camshaft ends where the camshaft tool should go and the sensor ring lined up on the top of the upper valve cover on Cyl 1-4 after rotating the crankshaft about ten times.. I am looking at a timing procedure pdf that appears to be from the dealer and doesn't go into much detail about TDC but shows the two camshaft lobes on Cyl 1 at TDC to point inward at each other at about a 90 degree angle(both are at the same position in the ilistration and in the forum pics here). If you look at the "A", "E" markings on the ends of the camshafts you can either have the "E" level with the top of the head or the "A" level with the top of the head but not both as shown in the pdf. As to where I got the timing chain guides if that question is for me I got them from my local indie shop called RennSport Workstadt

[GSXRliterbikz]

I got all my parts from the dealer.
As for TDC. With the flywheel pin in place it will be at TDC. The passenger side vanos unit was out of time before I even touched anything, showing that it had been out for quite a while. I had to wiggle the intake cam on the passenger side to get it to seat right in the cam lock. It kept wanting to pop out. Not sure if thats the same problem your having. I had already taken off the crank pulley so I couldnt line up the timing marks for TDC.

[trialbyfire38]

Can anyone tell me how I can tell if I have a new crankshaft pulley bolt that just needs to be torqued or if I have a new one that needs to be torqued and angle tightened? My old bolt says Kamax 11 on it and the new replacement bolt says Kamax 1100. the part I ordered was 11231736585