I am the new owner of an E39.
I just bought a 1999 BMW 528i Touring with 5speed manual. (not a sport).
It had 40,000 miles when I picked it up. Now just over 42,000.
Recently back from a trip from Southern NJ (my home) to Charlotte, NC and Lake Wiley, SC (my son's home).
I previously drove an E34 1995 525iT automatic.
My wife drives an E46 1999 328ia.
My new touring is already an adventure in getting things right.
With only 40,000 miles things look new and clean and great ----- BUT ----- at almost 12 years old, things need replacing!! -- Diagnosing what, when, where and by who is all part of the adventure!
My first shock was when I got it out on I95 -- It had quite a shudder to it between 50 and 70 mph.
Bent rims were repaired - still shuddered.
front lower control arms replaced - still shuddered.
Old tires that must have sat for years and become out of round were replaced with new contis - still shudders, but much better now.
Will be doing rear subframe bushings (Meyle HDs shipped from Europe) this month and replacing 12 year old shocks (with Koni FSDs), too.
Looking forward to this new BMW experience. Did a lot on my old e34 was hoping not to get into repairs so quickly with this one, but just have to get this suspension quieted down so everything doesn't shake apart.
Walt
Welcome!
Post pics and read our touring thread here
http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...d.php?t=952419
Congrats! Low mileage wagon… I have a 540it and I love it!
I just had to replace; control arm bushings, shocks, springs, etc. If you do some research most of the posts you will find are related somehow to suspension some electrical issues.
Enjoy your car and pics please!!!
Oh yeah: and the hub size for your wheels….
Welcome to the Touring club.
2007 Carerra S
2009 E91
1990 Toyo PU - POS
2000 E39/5
1976 911
Tourings Rule, welcome to the Club......if you had two more cylinders I could show you the secret handshake.
Such classic styling with these E39 Tourings.
Touring: Sterling Grey/Black as of 04-2017 65K miles
build date: 2-4-2002
Sedan: Titanium Silver/Gray as of 04-2017 1.2K miles
build date: 1-2003
welcome !
Welcome! I'm also going through the same transition, but to a 540it. That's a big difference!
No current BMWs.
1994 Roadmaster Wagon
1974 Alfa Romeo Berlina
Welcome Walt.
Check out the threads on FSD longevity ... you may re-think your choice.Will be doing rear subframe bushings (Meyle HDs shipped from Europe) this month and replacing 12 year old shocks (with Koni FSDs), too.
Meyle HD rear subframe bushings for the tourings may be solid rubber(?) versus OE fluid filled ... which might be a little harsh. Have replaced several sets of OEM rear subframe bushings for tourings (original fluid filled) and they seem to last ~ 100k +/- miles.
Not sure I'd trade off the NVH properties of the OEM rear fluid filled rear subframe bushings for solids but YMMV and all that. Let us know if it increases in ride harshness after replacement.
Thanks.
jase,
I went with the Meyle HDs because, I didn't want OEMs if they go bad in 40,000 miles or just sitting for 12 years. The wagons definitely seem to go bad quicker. I also thought the FSDs might keep things a little smoother yet tighter. We'll see. I'll let you know in April, the Konis are on back order from the factory in the Netherlands.
I just did a long trip and as long as I was going over 74mph things were nice and smooth. I have a Jeep too, so I will be backing off on racking up mileage until the new shocks and bushings are installed.
Already have the bushings - I ordered them from Schiemdmann in Denmark. Came across the pond quickly, price was less that Lemforders.
I will let you all know how it all works out.
jase007;21446871]Welcome Walt.
Check out the threads on FSD longevity ... you may re-think your choice.
Meyle HD rear subframe bushings for the tourings may be solid rubber(?) versus OE fluid filled ... which might be a little harsh. Have replaced several sets of OEM rear subframe bushings for tourings (original fluid filled) and they seem to last ~ 100k +/- miles.
Not sure I'd trade off the NVH properties of the OEM rear fluid filled rear subframe bushings for solids but YMMV and all that. Let us know if it increases in ride harshness after replacement.
Thanks.[/QUOTE]
The saga continues, I was gonna wait till April to do the subframe bushings, when the Koni FSDs will be in, .... but had car in because engine light was on - found old mouse nest under the back seat over the fuel level sender, they had to drop the subframe to get to the gas tank to replace what the mouse had chewed on, so already had bought -
Mehle HD subframe bushings from www.schmiedmann.com, plus a M5 sway bar and new swaybar links back and front. So my trusted mechanic went ahead and did all the repairs.
---- Victory!!! vibration gone! All 4 subframe bushings were shot, cracked at 40,000 miles but 12 years old. I was lucky my mechanic had access to special tool, can't do it without it. My touring does not have Self leveling shocks. I think maybe the tourings with SLS, the air bag levelers help make the bushings last longer, but eventually all the tourings need the bushings done. IMO the non SLS bushings take more of a beating. Can't really see how bad they are without removing them.
WOW! What a difference, smooth and with the new links steeering is tight. And the rear end feels so planted with the new M5 rear sway bar.
The saga is still not over though *** the engine light stayed off for just a few miles. Yes, she's back in the shop trying to figure out what and where a leak or disconnect is causing the engine light and code for fuel or vacuum. Car runs great, accelerates fine, but somethings still off, more mouse chewings? or 12 year old plastic/rubber.
Thinking about a full set of these to keep her clean and have more old school station wagon charm!
Last edited by walt525tour; 03-24-2011 at 10:18 PM.
Walt:
Congrats on being vibration free!
This may be true.My touring does not have Self leveling shocks. I think maybe the tourings with SLS, the air bag levelers help make the bushings last longer, but eventually all the tourings need the bushings done. IMO the non SLS bushings take more of a beating.
I've helped/replaced 6 sets now and IIRC all of them were on SLS cars from 75k to 170k miles (528it, 525it and 540it). Most needed it (bushings were cracked, fronts were worse, and fluid was gone) except one or two @ 75k miles where the bushings were still intact on a 10+ year old tourings. Lots of variables could contribute to why they are still good or done (climate, v8 torque vs. I6 no torque, h-way versus red-light dash).
Think the M5 rear bar may be next for me or possibly the 540i M sport / M sport II (stock 528it is 13mm, sport touring is 14 mm).
Realoem.com lists:
540 M Sport / M sport II = 15 mm
M5 = 16.5 mm
Last edited by jase007; 03-24-2011 at 02:25 PM.
Jase,
I couldn't believe how skinny the stock swaybar was compared to the M5.
All rear sway bars are smaller diameter than the front. Don't forget to do the links and the brackets.
Going around clover leafs is so much fun now, s curves too.
The way it leans or should I say doesn't lean is awesome.
Rear end just feels planted. Maybe makes it feel a little stiff, but there should be a break-in period with all I did with links and bushings.
Acceleration is better and steering, too.
Come April will be doing the Koni FSDs.
As smooth as things are now, I feel some vibes at 80, will let you know how the Koni's effect the ride and handling
LOL, I like your "updated" adventure bubble pic.
I'll probably just go up 1mm in rear anti-sway bar diameter to start. I've been through this on my other street cars and large diameter jumps on non-adjustable sways on a street car is no beuno IMHO.
On track cars, adjustable sways (slip/infinite adj is best) allow finite tuning after spring rate/wheel rate, dampening, roll center, etc... have been determined/sorted.
Here is a handy formula if you are so inclined:
Formula for anti-sway bar rate (tubular or solid bars):
To calculate the angular rate for the straight section of a steel bar:
19,700 x (OD^4 - ID^4) / Length-in-inches = angular rate in in.-lbs per degree = Angular Rate = AR
To account for the lever length (distance from centerline of the main bar to center of where the drop link is situated on the level arm):
AR / (Level-length^2 x pi / 180) = Roll bar rate in in-lbs
Note 1: for solid bars simply delete the "-ID^4" in step one above.
Note 2: "/" means divide.
Note 3: "^4" means raised to the 4th power. To do this, switch your Windows computer's calculator to Scientific mode (under "View") and find the "x^y" key at left. To calculate .875^4, for example, key in ".875", then click the "x^y" key, then enter 4 and click the "=" key.
Write all these numbers down and then use them in the equation where needed.
---------------------------------------------------------------
Once you get the Roll bar rate in in-lbs, compare what you have to what you are thinking of going to and be "sham-wowed" by the % increases.
Last edited by jase007; 03-24-2011 at 03:17 PM.
Walt's Adventure Interior Thoughts
I don't want a tec cup holder. I like to keep my forearm on the armrest and from the pics I've seen a cup will stand in the way of my reach from armrest to stickshift.
Armrest cubby, rather spend $$ on speed/handling upgrades.
SSK - I don't drag race, do I really need this?
Trying to figure out what to do with my GPS, don't really like it on the far left, and gets way to much glare in the middle when attached to the window, may have to buy a gel pad to sit it just above the center vent.
My car came with a cassette player!! So for now I use my Ipod thru a cassette adapter, lots of wires, but works especially if I just do playlists.
NO CD player, but do I really need one? in the trunk? and then I can't do CD and Ice any how right?
To bring some color to my gray interior, I'm thinking blue floor mats??
What kind of mats do you tourers have on your back floor? I have the slide out floor.
Great write up. Just picked up a 2002 Non sport 525 with a low speed rattle. Haven't brought it to the shop yet. Handles great with no vibrations.
Welcome, Walt, to the touring group.
Just curious: with your switch to the Koni FSD's are you going to keep the stock springs or possibly switch to sport springs while you're in there switching the shocks/struts? I saw your comment re staying w/ the 16" wheels and wondered if the two issues were connected for you?
2007 530i sport (Montreal Blue w/ gray interior)
2008 550i sport (Alpine White w/ black interior)
I just got the FSDs last week, hoping to have them installed this week.
I was not planning on lowering the springs. I used to own a van, don't want an SUV, but if I wanted to sit lower to the ground I'd get a Z4. Don't need to get any closer to the debris and potholes. How do the guys with the M bumpers and lowered suspension, keep from chewing that lip up?
So, I'll go stock height with a tight suspension and the 16" rims.
Continue to enjoy some comfort, but be ready to react firmly and quickly to avoid things and lean into the turns.
More air and rubber between me and the pavement adds comfort, too.
Hi Walt! Welcome Touring Brother!
I had a similar first year with my 99 540it, but as each item was renewed, the enjoyment was better and better. Alas, it's down just now for a little fix, but should be up and in form again for summer fun.
Enjoy yours, they are great cars and practical for hauling fun gear wherever!
1999 540it - Schwartz II/Sand Beige, style 5 rims, Conti DWS 235/45 tires, Billy HD/Sports, Stoptech S/S BL, F1 Pinacle 35% tint, Zionsville Cooling kit
1998 318ti Cali Sport - Schwartz II/Schwartz Anthratz, staggered style 23
1997 318ti Sport - Schwartz II/Schwartz Anthratz, staggered style 68 ,
1995 318ti Active - Alpineweib III/Schwartz, squared style 32
1994 325i - Bostongrau/Tan, Billy Sports, H&R springs
1991 318ic - Schwarz/Anthratz Stoff, Bilstien HD, Z4 3.0 SS, Magnaflow, S/S Stress bar, x-brace, M20 FW, Elipsoid/HID, K&N
BMWCCA# 160411
1995 318ti Sport Schwartz II/Schwartz Anthratz - Sold
1985 635CSI - Schwartz\Sand - Sold
1984 533i "Max" - Schwarz/Schwarz, - Sold
1984 318i - Champagne/Tan, Stock - Sold
Hi all,
Didn't want to start a new tread so I figured I would hi-jack Walts tread by the way congrats on ur new Wagon. I myself just purchased a '00 528 wagon 103k. She's a leaky monster but drives great. Loving the BMW life now. I'll try to post a pic when I figure out how to shrink the file size lol.
gotta love a touring
Last edited by walt525tour; 04-30-2011 at 12:20 AM. Reason: grammar
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