E39 DSP workaround with Hualingan

[platinum911]

Well fmugur helped me through this entire thing, and this is just to make it easier for people to understand, and specific for the E39, which should pretty much be the same with the X5.

I have a 98 528i with cassette tape, and DSP. . and after connecting the unit there is no sound, thats because the DSP amp in the back sends a signal up front to the MID and awaits for its signal back, , and if it doesn't receive it, it thinks that the radio is gone, and the amp just shuts off. ..
The way to make it work would be to install the Hualingan Unit, but still keep the old radio in the car so that it can send a signal to the DSP amp and have it stay ON.
The way to do this is to relocate the MID in the glove compartment, and the Radio Cassette in the trunk.

Parts needed :

IF you have the Round Pin Plug you Need this
Metra 71-8590 - 17 Round Pin Female Plug (google, or ebay "Metra 71-8590")
Metra Round.png


IF you have the Flat Pin Plug you need this
Metra 71-9003 - Flat Pin Female Plug
Metra Flat.png



(OPTIONAL and recommended)
DB25 male plug with wires coming from the back. . . (or you can just plug the wire into the little hole on the plug, without having to use this extension, but it would make it better, just in case your wire touches other things)
db25.png



Prcedure :
1st make sure that the NEW plug you got for the Radio matches the one you have on your harness on the car perfectly with where the round pin plugs are on the plug itself. . when I purchased mine, I had to move the pins around on the plug so that they matched up with the one my harness has.
Assuming all this is done, , ,you need to make a total of ONLY 5 CONNECTIONS in the trunk, and you are pretty much done, but 1st lets get the MID relocation out the way.
Take the MID and the Cassette out the car, , and see if your MID plug is taped up around anything, if it is you need to un-tape it so that it reaches the glove box. Just open your glove box and stick your hand in there and there should be a little hole on the upper left corner of it where you can stick your finder in, and take the plug with your other hand from the radio side and try and fish it to that little hole. . after you got it in there, you can just plug your MID in, and leave it in there.

Now you need to go in the trunk and assuming you plug is all matched with the one that is in the car already you will do this.

Connect pin 16 from the round pin plug - - with the wire from pin 4 on the Big AMP Plug
Connect pin 9 from the round pin plug - - with the wire from pin 8 on the Big Amp Plug
Connect pin 15 from the round pin plug - - with the wire from pin 15 on the Big Amp Plug
Connect pin 5 from the round pin plug - - with pin hole 5 on the DB25 plug
Connect pin 7 from the round pin plug - - with the IBUS wire on the smaller plug on the amp (should be white with yellow spots)

After all is connected, , plug the 17 Round Pin plug on the Radio Cassette, and thats it. . . go turn ON your car and radio.

But make sure that the MID which you now have in the Glove Box is set to FM Radio. . that way the Hualingan unit works. . if you want to switch over to the CD changer, than you can hit CD on the MID in the Glove Box, but you would have to switch back to FM radio on the MID to put the Hualingan back to use. (Hopefully the fix will come for the CD changer to work right though the Hualingan Unit)


Diagram.jpg



Make sure all connections are solid, and wires are tucked clean, and you should be ALL SET.

Again this is ALL with the help of fmugur that I was able to make the Hualingan Unit work in my DSP AMP car.

[Flybot]

Nice. And isnt there something about the volume control?

[ZeroDfx]

I understand precisely WHAT you did having removed my DSP in the past, I just don't understand WHY you did it; what exactly is a Hualingan unit?

Thnx

[crdiscoverer]

I just don't understand WHY you did it; what exactly is a Hualingan unit?

With all due respect, but why don't you take a look at one GIANT thread sitting right there on the front page of this forum?






Now, platinum... Do you have pictures of how the MID looks inside the glovebox? It'd be interesting as I will probably get the Dynavin but don't want to lose OBC functions.

[platinum911]

lol it is just sitting there quietly. . fits in the glove like a glove. . not attached to anything. . I didn't do anything else to it in there. . if you still need to see it, than just let me know and I'll upload a pic

[crdiscoverer]

Nahh, don't worry

Would be interesting to put it in the trunk, under the tray between the speakers. You can access everything via the stalk anyways. I had an old AC Schnitzer nav, and the DVD receiver was located right there.

[jeffb325]

Nice work platinum. The DSP workaround is getting clearer by the day. I hope you dont mind, I added a link to this thread in my "dynavin E39 info" thread.

thanks!

[platinum911]

No problem at all.

Well its a good thing that the MID is up front just in case people still want to change DSP settings. . you wouldn't want to get out the car just to do that. .Thats why I like it up front. . . still working on a good way to mount or even hide the radio cassette in the trunk though.

[crdiscoverer]

No problem at all.

Well its a good thing that the MID is up front just in case people still want to change DSP settings. . you wouldn't want to get out the car just to do that. .Thats why I like it up front. . . still working on a good way to mount or even hide the radio cassette in the trunk though.

Yeah, that's you because you are a lucky bastard with DSP JK.

I only have a plain jane MID (but with high OBC strangely), and apart from the mileage/autonomy/ETA and the unlocked OBC functions (voltage, core temp, etc.) I don't need anything else from it. I would never have to touch the MID itself ever again. Probably only to clear up the values, so the trunk would be a good option for me. The wiring could be a PITA though.

[platinum911]

yeah, you would have to run the MID plug all the way to the trunk, which is actually VERY VERY EASY, , I just ran a Video cable and it literally took me no more than 20 minutes.

[jeffb325]

So i went out and looked at a metra that is on my shelf for some clarification...

please go through this and verify and correct anything that needs clarification.



Remote turn on wire wire (blue) pin 16 from the round pin plug - - with the wire from pin 4 on the Big AMP Plug


??????(rear speaker wire on metra harness???)....... pin 3 from the round pin plug - - with the wire from pin 8 on the Big Amp Plug (are you sure this shouldnt be pin 9...yellow power wire?)


Ground wire (black) pin 15 from the round pin plug - -with the wire from pin 15 on the Big Amp Plug


Acc power wire(red) pin 5 from the round pin plug - - with pin hole 5 on the DB25 plug I understand the rest but I dont know what you are doing here with the DB25 plug


IBUS (empty on metra harness)Connect pin 7 from the round pin plug - - with the IBUS wire on the smaller plug on the amp (should be white with yellow spots) I assume you relocated a unused pin to this position as it is empty on the metra plug.


Thanks!

[platinum911]

Yes Pin 16 to Pin 4 (color might be different considering different model cars, and after-
market Metra plugs)

3 to 8 is what I did. . I haven't experimented with any other connections.

Yes 15 to 15

Pin 5 to Pin 5 is me following instructions from fmugur, so I did it too.

Yes I relocated one of the Pins to the IBus hole, as there wasn't one there.

[jeffb325]

what color wire is on pin 3 on the metra harness in your setup? On the metra plug it is green...I suspect you have a misprint as it would make a lot more sense if it were the power plug next to it on pin 9.
Im going to go back and read your posts with fmuger....see if I can make it a little more clear...


EDIT: I just went back and looked at the diagram.....its pin 9, not pin 3, its the 12+ constant circuit, you might want to confirm and edit your post...

[platinum911]

VERY TRUE. . that had slipped me. . its pin 9. .I had it in the diagram, but when i typed it up i put 3 for some reason. . all changed . . thank you

[jeffb325]

And there it is....the DSP work around is done. Thanks I think we have ourselves a DIY workaround here!

[richmak]

I tried to find the DB25 female port, but it doesn't exist in my '03 525 wagon. Without the DB25 female port, how can I connect the pin5 (from the DB25) to the pin 5 on the "new" round pin plug which is used to connect to the tape deck after the relocation to the trunk?

Another question I have is, currently there is no wire connected for PIN 5 on my current round pin plug connected to the tape deck at the front dash. Do I really need to setup the pin 5 on the new plug (after the tape deck is relocated)?

I only have the following PINs used today on the round PIN plug at the tape deck in the front dash.

PIN 2 - blue with red stripe
PIN 3 - yellow with red stripe
PIN 6 - brown with orange stripe
PIN 7 - brown with orange stripe
PIN 9 - beige with yellow bands
PIN 10 - beige with brown stripe
PIN 12 - brown (thick wire)
PIN 13 - beige
PIN 14 - grey with red stripe
PIN 15 - red with green stripe (thick wire)
PIN 16 - purple with white stripe

** Update : Just found the round pin layout is not the same as the flat pin layout. Apparently my 2003 model is using the flat pin layout where the following pins should be used (based on Platinum911's list) **

Assignments: DSP 15-pin AMP plug <-> round pin plug <-> flat pin plug

DSP pin#4 <-> round pin#16 <-> flat pin#13 (antenna)
DSP pin#8 <-> round pin#9 <-> flat pin#15 (12V battery)
DSP pin#15 <-> round pin#15 <-> flat pin#12 (ground)

Assignments: DSP 18-pin plug <-> round pin plug <-> flat pin plug

DSP pin#5 <-> round pin#7 <-> flat pin#9 (i-bus)

My challenge left is where to find the 12V ACC (switched) to wire it to an equivalent flat pin to the round pin#5. Any help would be appreciated!

[jeffb325]

I would imagine there is a switched wire back there somewhere.....we need to find some diagrams of your plug....

By the way...any switched source will do, if there isnt one in the trunk you can always run one from the dash.

[richmak]

Jeff, I have the OEM CD changer installed in the trunk. If I failed to locate the 54 pin connector for the 12V switched (ACC) input, can I split it from the CD changer (assuming one of the inputs into the CDC is a 12V switched)?

Thanks!

[Qsilver7]

...I only have a plain jane MID (but with high OBC strangely), and apart from the mileage/autonomy/ETA and the unlocked OBC functions (voltage, core temp, etc.) I don't need anything else from it. I would never have to touch the MID itself ever again. Probably only to clear up the values, so the trunk would be a good option for me. ...

Just an FYI for those that have the HIGH instrument cluster and the HIGH MID...you DO need your MID for more than just resetting the extended OBC features of the high cluster & MID. The high MID is the only place to set the CLOCK-TIMER/BC/AUDIO/DSP/PHONE features. So even if you don't have the PHONE or DSP...those with a HIGH instrument cluster & MID will also need it to set or reset the clock, onBoard CPU features, and audio.

The BC button on the turn indicator stalk, and the ability to display some of the OBC features in the instrument cluster's CHECK CONTROL DISPLAY are only a secondary "fringe benefit" tossed in by BMW. The 20 digit alpha/numeric display on the HIGH instrument cluster has first priority to the Check Control system. As soon as you lose electrical power (disconnect the battery)...all of the OBC features that you have programmed into the instrument cluster will be lost...and without the MID...you'll have no way to reprogram those features into your instrument cluster.

So for those with a high MID & high instrument cluster...if you are thinking that you won't miss the MID because you can see the clock and other OBC features in the instrument cluster...again, once you've lost electrical power...everything that was programmed into the instrument cluster will be gone, and you'll have no way to reprogram those features without the MID.

But if none of those things are important to you...then this whole reply is moot!

[richmak]

Platinum911 / Jeff, strictly speaking if I am not looking to move the business CD/tape deck to the trunk, can I just splice off the 5 wires from the existing round pin plug in the front dash and connect the business CD/tape deck in the new front location (say, in the cabin drawer)?

This way, the original round pin plug goes to the Dynavin, and the new plug goes to the business CD/tape deck in the new front location.

What do you think?

[jeffb325]

Platinum911 / Jeff, strictly speaking if I am not looking to move the business CD/tape deck to the trunk, can I just splice off the 5 wires from the existing round pin plug in the front dash and connect the business CD/tape deck in the new front location (say, in the cabin drawer)?

This way, the original round pin plug goes to the Dynavin, and the new plug goes to the business CD/tape deck in the new front location.

What do you think?

Sure, it doesnt really matter where you put it, just so long as you connect the same wires. As long as the DSP sees it on the ibus it will work.

[jamfool]

, I just don't understand WHY you did it; what exactly is a Hualingan unit?

That is a question I keep asking myself, what is a Hualingan unit...

No seriously where have you been those last 6 months? kd...
http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1512832

[RAiMA]

Just an FYI for those that have the HIGH instrument cluster and the HIGH MID...you DO need your MID for more than just resetting the extended OBC features of the high cluster & MID. The high MID is the only place to set the CLOCK-TIMER/BC/AUDIO/DSP/PHONE features. So even if you don't have the PHONE or DSP...those with a HIGH instrument cluster & MID will also need it to set or reset the clock, onBoard CPU features, and audio.

The BC button on the turn indicator stalk, and the ability to display some of the OBC features in the instrument cluster's CHECK CONTROL DISPLAY are only a secondary "fringe benefit" tossed in by BMW. The 20 digit alpha/numeric display on the HIGH instrument cluster has first priority to the Check Control system. As soon as you lose electrical power (disconnect the battery)...all of the OBC features that you have programmed into the instrument cluster will be lost...and without the MID...you'll have no way to reprogram those features into your instrument cluster.

So for those with a high MID & high instrument cluster...if you are thinking that you won't miss the MID because you can see the clock and other OBC features in the instrument cluster...again, once you've lost electrical power...everything that was programmed into the instrument cluster will be gone, and you'll have no way to reprogram those features without the MID.

But if none of those things are important to you...then this whole reply is moot!

How many MIDs are there and how do you know which one u have?

Also is it possible to replace the factory amp with and after market one to bypass the DSP problem?

[Qsilver7]

How many MIDs are there and how do you know which one u have?

There are two types of MIDs...low or high. You can tell which one you have by multiple methods.

1. If you have a "BC" button on your MID (bottom right button)...which it shares with the "clock face icon"...you have the HIGH MID
   
2. If you have the HIGH instrument cluster...you will also have the HIGH MID (or NAV screen)...if you have the LOW instrument cluster...you will have the LOW MID

The high instrument cluster has the 20 digit alpha-numeric display where you can program the extended OBC features to appear (CONS1 or CONS 2, RANGE, etc) and you will also get "written" check control warnings: ie FASTEN SEAT BELT; LIGHTS" ON; CHECK COOLANT; OIL LOW; DOOR OPEN; TRUNK OPEN; etc

(high instrument cluster w/20 digit alpha-numeric display)

The low instrument cluster uses a "GRAPHIC DISPLAY" that indicates the written warnings you get on the high cluster (see image below of the low cluster's graphic display):

Differences between the LOW and HIGH MIDs

[RAiMA]

That's awesome! Thanks Qsilver7! I have low MID. I'm so happy I can almost cry! Lols That dsp amp is coming out! With 10 speakers, what amp would you recommend in terms of specs and channels?