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Thread: Idler arm replacement

  1. #1
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    Idler arm replacement

    The last issue my mechanic found this morning was that I need a stabilizer link and an idler arm.

    I saw on another thread that the idler arm has no "joints" or somewhat, and shouldn't need replacing. Basically, my passenger-side wheel had quite a bit of play, and my mechanic said that's the issue.

    I'm going to order parts tomorrow. Do I just need bushings for these things, or the whole idler arm and stabilizer link?

    Any help is appreciated, as always.
    Last edited by RyanIL; 10-29-2010 at 08:35 PM.

  2. #2
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    they should come with everything you need

    you will probably need a ball joint popper or pickling fork to get the idler arm off tho.

  3. #3
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    The idler arm has a bushing that is easy to swap and is
    cheaper than the arm itself...$17.00 compared to $80.00
    for the whole assembly.

    Bushing part # 32211136452

  4. #4
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    Great, bushing arrived. Where does one find the correct ball joint popper?

  5. #5
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    this is the best type to use

    http://www.harborfreight.com/3-4-qua...tor-99849.html




    now if you brake this, or it isn't working... you will need heat in the minimum form of MAP gas, a very tough pickle fork, and a sledge hammer...

    did you get the new center link too? definitely replace both at the same time
    Last edited by DSMjrv; 11-17-2010 at 01:36 PM.
    Glare shielding www.justoffroad.org

  6. #6
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    The bushings are a biatch to get pressed in!

    Have a technical question, don't send me a PM but post it on the board so others can benefit from it!

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Edwin NL View Post
    The bushings are a biatch to get pressed in!
    they are easy if you use a press.

  8. #8
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    Okay, this still isn't resolved.

    My mechanic couldn't find an idler arm bushing puller, so my problem has gotten increasingly worse over the past few weeks.

    Does anyone know the right size or model number for the puller, or the correct size so I can try to match another tool at the parts store? This is driving me crazy...

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by RyanIL View Post
    Okay, this still isn't resolved.

    My mechanic couldn't find an idler arm bushing puller, so my problem has gotten increasingly worse over the past few weeks.

    Does anyone know the right size or model number for the puller, or the correct size so I can try to match another tool at the parts store? This is driving me crazy...
    makes it alot easier to just Pull out the center link out entirely ...No reason to be messing under there with lil or no room to work with...U will need an alignment anyways..The center link comes out easy....
    2000 740i Sport

  10. #10
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    Great, thanks! Still need an idler arm bushing removal tool with the center link out?

  11. #11
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    You talking about the pitman arm?

    Have a technical question, don't send me a PM but post it on the board so others can benefit from it!

  12. #12
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    According to my mechanic, it's the idler arm bushing (passenger side) instead of the pittman bushing (driver's side).

    I would trust your knowledge above his any day though, Edwin. How backwards am I here?

  13. #13
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    Number 6 and 7 and can be pressed in using a standard socket and good bench vise!

    http://bmwfans.info/parts/catalog/E3...kage_tie_rods/

    The drivers side does not have a bushing.

    Have a technical question, don't send me a PM but post it on the board so others can benefit from it!

  14. #14
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    I pressed this in on my e32 once, I cleaned the inner hole of the arm well and sanded lightly then greased lightly, my large bench vise pressed it right in no problem.

  15. #15
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    Ah, so what my mechanic is calling the idler arm is the pittman arm in the diagram(?). So he just needs the pittman puller to get the old bushing out, and press the new in(?).

    If so, I'm back in business. Am I reading those last posts right?

  16. #16
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    If your "MECHANIC" can't figure out how to replace the
    bushing......... Man you have bigger problems.

  17. #17
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    Naw, he's just a guy I use for simpler stuff.. hasn't worked on a 7 before. His only problem was that he didn't have a small enough puller for the idler arm bushing; could only find a pittman puller from his tools supplier and didn't want to waste time on the wrong parts.

    He's a ford and chevy mechanic, but still competent.

  18. #18
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    If that bushing is bad you will have massive play.

    Pressing the old one out is easy!

    Have a technical question, don't send me a PM but post it on the board so others can benefit from it!

  19. #19
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    Thank you Edwin! That's what I was looking for, as we thought the outer sleeve of the old bushing would require something special to press or pull-out.

    Cheers!

  20. #20
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    Okay, taking DSMjrv's advice on replacing the center link at the same time. About to surf the threads... best recommendations?

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