Hi folks,
To those of you who have replaced their motor mounts: how do you tighten the 17mm nut that goes on the top of the mount and attaches it to the engine bracket?
It just seems that there's barely any space there to squeeze in any kind of wrench. The passenger's side looks more accessible, but on the driver's side the nut is squeezed in a tight space that doesn't leave much room to wiggle any tool in there... let alone a torque wrench, if you want to tighten them to spec. (unless you want to remove a bunch of unrelated components that are located above the nut, that is)
Thanks
F.
Wobble joint and extensions is what I used. 3/8" drive. Tighten as hard as you can.
locktite is a good idea too.
Gophers FTW
Try doing it with a swapped motor on ebay headers. Ftl
On the drivers side you can loosen the mount for the charcoal canister then push it up. That will allow you to get a wrench on it.
On the exhaust side, remove the heat shield that protects the mount (2 10 mm nuts and bolts) and then use a long extension and wobble joint to tighten that nut from the top.
9/2004 Chevrolet Suburban Z71, black, purchased March 2016, 270k miles.
6/99 740i Cosmos Schwartz M Sport, 214k miles, purchased May 2017
2001 740i OrientBlau M Sport, purchased March 2023
1984 MasterCraft Stars and Stripes, Blue/White, PCM Ford 351W, PowerSlot, 912 hours, purchased September 2012 (not a car )
4/99 323is/5. Titansilber, 211k miles. Straight body project.
past BMWs: 5/1994 325isa (Arktisgrau), 3/1997 328is/5 (cosmosschwartz), 9/1990 535i/5 (calypsorot), 9/1990 318i/5 (brillantrot) 7/93 325i/5 convertible (samoablau) 2/92 325i/5 cabriolet (lagunengruen).
SÜNDE REISEN
Just finished doing this myself...driverside just required a 3/8 17mm socket and a wobble...doesn't look like it will fit, but you can get enough of the nut to torque it. Passernger side is much easier. I just pushed my heat shield out of the way and used the same extension and wobble as I did on the other side...
Bookmarks