Programming Brand New Key Transponder

[pcar9281995]

I ordered a new master key from BMW, it came in yesterday. The stealer wanted 100 to program it, and since Ive done it before I didnt think I was going to have a problem. I followed this set of instructions....

Subject: Re: how to program for the key ?
Author: Shayne (moderator) : member since July, 2005 : 5810 posts
Posted on: 2009-09-05 21:54:47
1. Get in and close the door.
2. Turn ignition to Run (position 2) then back off in less than than 5 seconds.
3. Within 30 seconds of 2. hold down unlock button on the remote while pressing lock button on the remote three times. Release all buttons. All doors should lock and unlock on their own 1 time.
4. Do the same thing with the other remote within 30 seconds of the previous remote.
5. After all remotes have been done, turn the ignition on & off again to finalize the process. When turning the ignition on & off it's not necessary to start the engine.


Now I have the original master key that initializes just fine, when i go to program the new key only using steps 3 and 4 but nothing happens.

Any suggestions?

[tavo80816]

when I ordered a key from the dealer, they programmed it for no charge. THey should not charge you for it...ask to talk to a manager. Thats nonsense.

anyhow, they are just going to do the same steps mentioned above...should work unless you missed something.

u have to do all the steps for the new key.

[locknload]

I think they have to match it up with the EWS, which is a whole different animal than getting the doors to unlock. I agree, it should be part of the purchase as it requires special software to get both keys to work properly.
If I've misread your post and you're saying the new key will start the car but won't unlock the doors, perhaps the key battery needs to be recharged. It charges while it's in the ignition on POS 2 (I think). Try putting the new key in the ignition and leaving it in POS2 for 20 min or so to charge the battery and try the recode again.

[Qsilver7]

You don't say...but does it start the car? If so...then please let us know so you won't get suggestions that it needs to be synced with your EWS system.

If the only problem is that it won't lock/unlock your car...then the issue is only with the FZV/DWA (keyless entry & anti-theft alarm siren system). And to continue from there...those two features requires that the rechargable battery inside the key is fully charged...which leads to another fact that is conspicuously not covered or answered in your orignal post. So, did you charge the battery before you tried to initialize it?

Furthermore...Shayne is a great guy...but if I'm not mistaken...he's not an e38 owner (unless he's moved into this forum of late)...so you're following instructions for the wrong key. We have instructions in this forum in the DIY/FAQ thread for the THREE DIFFERENT TYPES of keys used during the e38's production. The first step is to initiate the central locking system either manually or remotely if you have a working remote key...then close the doors. Below you will see the instructions for the new style key your 01 should have...and again MAKE SURE THE NEW KEY IS FULLY CHARGED:

Just to reiterate...the new style keys have a rechargable battery that needs to be used to keep it charged...or it will lose its ability to lock/unlock the car (but it will still be able to start the car and lock/unlock the car manually by sticking it in the door/trunk lock cylinder). These master remote keys have THREE features...EWS/FZV/DWA. EWS is self contained and does NOT require the battery inside the key to work...it is self powering thru induction by a 125 KHz AM signal sent from the Ring Antenna around the ignition. FZV/DWA requires power from the battery inside the key:

[IcemanBHE]

IF they ordered a key....it should be EWS synced already....

[Edwin NL]

It should work on the car out off the box, only opening the doors by remote and creating a memory slot (#) is what the initializing is for.

[pcar9281995]

Ok I went through the TIS system and found the above mentioned instructions and have tried to perform this task a multitude of ways. The original master key I can get to initialize just fine as evidenced by the door locks actuating.

The new key does start the car no problem, all Im trying to get to work is the keyless entry. I follow the Original master key initializing with the brand new key and nothing happens, The original still works fine.

Im calling the stealer now, as the above instructions arent working.

[Edwin NL]

Ehh stupid question but did the dealer but battery's in the key??

[Qsilver7]

FZV/DWA (keyless entry & anti-theft alarm siren system)...requires that the rechargable battery inside the key is fully charged...So, did you charge the battery before you tried to initialize it?

Ehh stupid question but did the dealer [p]ut battery's in the key??

Okay...I asked this question in my first reply...and Edwin has also asked it...have you charged up the battery in the key, yet? Since you have the new style key...the battery is soldered to the circuit board inside the key (which does NOT open, in your case). You have to charge the key in the ignition for an extended period...and the ignition MUST be on...the key does NOT charge when the ignition is in the OFF position.

[Edwin NL]

Oeps good catch Q, I read 97 but that was from the M3

[pcar9281995]

Ok, I thought I was going insane, Yes, the battery was charged, I took it to the stealer after I couldnt get it to work. The tech said the key fob was faulty and they ordered me a new key, It will be here tomorrow.

Thanks

[pcar9281995]

Update:

I received my new key yesterday, Got in the car at the stealership, and it programmed immediately. I now have 2 master keys!

I wanted to make sure the first key they sent me was going to be destroyed, The parts guy just looked at me like WHY? Do I really have to explain my thought process on that?

[nah2323]

What's the skinny on ordering a new key anyway, can any key be used?

Since I have an 00, can the newer diamond shaped key be used rather than the tombstone key? Also, who cuts them?

I (in my sometimes infinite dumbness) only have 1 key for the car and I usually leave it in the car with the driver window down, or nearby the car in a secret location. It's silly I know, but my car is garaged, and on DVR/CCTV throughout my place and viewable anytime remotely for added security. Worst part is, the buttons are TOAST! So I need at least one key, and probably two if the diamond shaped ones can be used.

[Qsilver7]

...
I wanted to make sure the first key they sent me was going to be destroyed, The parts guy just looked at me like WHY? Do I really have to explain my thought process on that?

Congrats on getting a new key that works and that was easy to program.

But why would you want the key destroyed? Since it can't be used to start any other vehicle than yours...I would have asked if I could keep it. It would make a great "spare/emergency" key. Although it won't work remotely...it still starts your car, and is capable of opening the trunk and door manually.

Or...you could have had the dealer ship DE-ACTIVATE (bar) the key. This really would work in your favor since it was never capable of being programmed to lock/unlock...de-activating the key would have also prevented the key from ever starting the car.

[pcar9281995]

The stealer had to keep the key so they could get credit for it since it was a parts warranty.

The key starts my car, and I dont have the key, It would make stealing my car really easy.

[Qsilver7]

1. What's the skinny on ordering a new key anyway, can any key be used?

2. Since I have an 00, can the newer diamond shaped key be used rather than the tombstone key? Also, who cuts them?

Some Answers:
1. No. Each BMW key since 1/95 build date has an embedded and encoded chip inside that has an ISN (individual serial number) which is assigned to all the components of the EWS system in the car. This is the reason that a key MUST be ordered from BMW. They are the only ones that have the info for the ISN. So when you order a new key (there are 4 types)...BMW will cut & code the key, then send it to your dealer to give to you (after paying for it of course ).

2. What ever type key you have, is the type of key you get from BMW. If you want to "Frakenstein" a key...some have...but you're better off than what you realize because the newer keys have more problems than what they are worth. I'm surprised you haven't noticed all the key complaints (over the last 2 years that you've been a forum member) from those that have the newer style keys.

The new keys are sealed, the transponder as well as the battery inside the key is soldered to the circuit board inside the key. So when the battery dies, you either have to break open the key, find the correct type of rechargable battery, desolder it from the circuit board, solder the new battery to the circuit board, then find a way to re-seal the key so that it doesn't fall apart since it was never designed to be opened. And once you do all that...you have to find a way to re-charge the battery since it was designed to be charged while it's in the ignition. And if your car did NOT come with that type of key...your ignition does NOT recharge the new style key.

If your rubber pads have worn away...you can replace them. It' simple and relatively easy. I replaced mine in approx 15 min during a lunch break. There's a DIY on the e38.org/wiki site...and it's been discussed here and on BimmerBoard...so it shouldn't be too hard to find.

EDIT: just that quick, I found the rubber replacement pad DIY: http://www.e38.org/wiki/Replacement%...ns%20on%20Keys . The pads can be found on eBay. Sometimes you have to go to Euro ebay...like the UK or Germany.

The key starts my car, and I dont have the key, It would make stealing my car really easy.

Again, you can have that key "BARRED"...and I would request that it be done (free) since the key was defective but yet still assigned to start your car.

See the info I posted in my reply above on how a key can be activated/de-activated by the dealer (using BMW DIS, MoDiC, or GT-1).

[nah2323]

I have heard the problems and the complaints of the new style key with the old internals. I also knew about the rubber pads thing, but I haven't seen them anywhere. I also have seen the DIY (I'm no noob Q, you should know that.)

Just a simple question about purchasing a diamond key from the dealer, if it was an option.

Since I'm running GT1-DIS/INPA/SSS/NCS, can I program my own key to the EWSIII, provided the cut is already made?

[Qsilver7]

Just a simple question about purchasing a diamond key from the dealer, if it was an option.

Since I'm running GT1-DIS/INPA/SSS/NCS, can I program my own key to the EWSIII, provided the cut is already made?

I've never seen or heard of a dealer ordering the new style key for a car built before 9/99.

I'm not sure what it takes to program a chip with the correct ISN. But I've seen it posted several times about a place in Canada that says they can do it. The name of the company and the forum member that had it done escapes me at this time...but it is one of the Canadian forum members.

[jamrobin]

LMAO
Hate to bump such an old thread but maybe it will save someone $90 or so!

I sure wish I had read this thread before buying an AK90 and spending a whole evening removing the EWS module, opening it, then several hours the next day trying to get past the "pin no touch" error... and ultimately ordering a new interface cable...
I went to the garage just now and in less than 3 minutes both my new flip style keys start my car right up.
Hahaha live and learn!

[garycw]

I have a brand new uncut/ unprogrammed key I'd sell at my cost. I needed the one with notch at top, this one does not. $17. I'll list in classifieds.

[jamrobin]

I stand corrected. It seems I will still need the AK90 to program the EWSII. The trick mentioned above does work... to start the car one time. after you shut it off and walk away it no longer works. I think the above just sets the EWS to allow the car to start when you first put in the original key, and doesn't "check" the transponder again for a bit. I tried a couple more times and withing 10 minutes of shutting off the car the new keys no longer worked. I will hopefully program them into the EWS this week.

[chiggy]

I have a brand new uncut/ unprogrammed key I'd sell at my cost. I needed the one with notch at top, this one does not. $17. I'll list in classifieds.

Is the key still available?

[garycw]

Yes