I just installed some K-Sport coilovers on my 93 touring last weekend and thought I would post some feedback for everyone.
First off, for anyone with a touring who weary of messing with the SLS I found it quite manageable.
Secondly, it seems that lots E34 owners are looking for a affordable coilovers that are actually available. K-Sport has had a questionable reputation in some circles; however they have improved the quality of their product over the years to the point that I have decided to run them. (In the past I have been a suspension elitist insisting on running Ohlins, KW, JIC, Quantum, Aragosta, and custom valved Bilsteins but I am getting a little tired of spending more money on my suspension than the vehicle itself....)
So here is the run down for anyone who wants to try these for himself.
You need to specify the diameter of your strut housings when you order the kit, if you order the wrong size you won't be able to install the front coilovers.
My struts were 55mm in diameter. It took about 10 business days for my kit to arrive here at the shop.
You will need to remove your front hub/wheel bearings so you will need a 46mm socket for this, and ideally you should order new axle nuts.
You will need to pull the springs off as well as your old shock inserts, I didn't feel like using the spring compressor so I just removed the nut holding the strut insert in with a pipe wrench. This is kind of a lazy shortcut, but I knew I wouldn't be reusing the top of my strut so I wasn't worried about damaging anything.
The next step is to cut your strut tube down. The instructions aren't very clear so I test fitted the sleeves and found that the seat is 60mm deep. Knowing that I cut my struts off at 70mm which left me with 10mm to weld.
Getting a square cut with the axle in the way was tricky so I just rough cut it with the hack saw (soo much quieter than the cut off wheel) then I used a hose clamp to grind the tube to length and ensure that it was square.
Once both of the struts are trimmed, just clean everything up and weld your new housings on. This is where all of the left over oil from your blown shocks will burn inside the struts giving the smoking gun look =)
Once you have them welded together assemble your coilovers and test fit them. While they are bolted in mark the location of your sway bar mounts. I got excited and painted everything, then realized I had to strip the paint and weld more... it was disappointing and wasted time. So weld your sway bar mounts then paint. If you have a second car, send them out for powder coating it is money well spent.
If you have a touring, you will need to delete the SLS to run these or really any performance related suspension. I was pleasantly surprised to find that my '93 touring didn't have any electronic components on the SLS. This may not be true for every touring, but I know I didn't unplug any wires.
I removed the shock/accumulators, SLS actuator/level sensor, and the hard lines, and replaced everything with a hose that I made to recirculate the hydraulic fluid from the feed directly into the return line (if this is going to destroy my power steering pump let me know, lol).
From there it is just a matter of bolting everything together and taking the time to set your ride height.
I recommend leaving the rear interior out (especially touring folks) until you break in the dampers and fine tune the adjustments. Most new shocks take a few hundred miles to break in and springs are rumored to settle a little bit. During this time it is nice to be able to conveniently make adjustments.
I was able to complete this job over the course of a typical Saturday with a long lunch, and multiple distractions.
So far I am pleased with these coilovers. I never thought my touring would be this much fun to drive. Despite being stiffer and lower I have fewer clunks and rattles, and a smoother ride (my girlfriend approves as well).
Here is the finished result, with some Advans RS-Ds these are E92 wheels (19x9 +25 19x10 +20) but they fit nicely with some 15mm spacers in the front.
...now that I am looking at it I think I am going to drop the front some more this weekend =)
That my friend is one sweet ride. I'm thinking about doing the same thing once I save up some money.
Jeez. I don't trust mine nor my friends welding enough to do that, and he went to school for it!
I own mostly junk. Except the Porsche, that's kind of cool.
All the motorcycles are trash which you can read about at
http://oneguytwowheels.blogspot.com/
I'll update it eventually
Thansk
Awesome write-up man!
Wow. Beautiful touring man! I just got done lowering mine. Just waiting for my new rims then I need post a finished thread. Enjoy her she's gorgeous
that's AWESOME!..i need to do that
Very nice writeup!
awesome write up! your touring looks good.
lowered on 19" wheels AND special lady friend approved? sounds smooth
I own mostly junk. Except the Porsche, that's kind of cool.
All the motorcycles are trash which you can read about at
http://oneguytwowheels.blogspot.com/
I'll update it eventually
Thansk
Ahhh i think you deleted the proportioing valve... You were suppose to fix it I thought to the subframe...
Looks baller though!!!
About the height of mine with my cut struts and short inserts
Any idea what spring rates they sent you front / rear
Gary Gray
If you can take it apart you can make it faster!
Awesome on all counts sir.
I didn't see any purpose to leaving the proportioning valve as it only appeared to vary the pressure going to into the accumulators. So far everything is running fine, but I will do more research.
List price on the kit is $1450, but most dealers sell for much less.
The spring rates on my car currently are 8.4k front and 7k rear. I compared the spring rates offered for the E34 sedan by a couple other companies and these are in the same range. I may go with lighter springs at some point, but I was running 8/6 on my S13 so I figured these rates would be a good start point for the much heavier Touring.
I'm running 12k front (760) and 10k out back (560) on mine. They are heavy cars, 3800ish, and like stiffer springs I have found... Ride is not bad either. nice and firm! Next some poly sway bar bushing on mine, and eBay 99 buck camber plates.
Heck my 3000 pound M3 runs 550f 650r..
Gary Gray
If you can take it apart you can make it faster!
I'm getting ready to replace the SLS in back of my 92 Touring with all new parts. New SLS struts, lines, springs, spring pads, accumulators, etc. Prefer to keep the SLS because I like the ride but with 200k miles it's due for a refresh. Could use some tips on what to remove from the interior, and the order in which to remove it, to get at the top of the shocks.
Thanks.
the ride height valve willrecirculate fluid on its own.
just adjust the lever as if the car were riding high.
whats the conversion for spring rates from K to lbs?
nvm with some simple math it seems you have about a 530lb spring up front and a 490 rear. Personally I would opt for stiffer springs.. Car looks great with the new ride height. So what did you get the kit for? not the list price...how much were they out the door?
In your case that would be damn near everything
Last edited by Sam Son; 08-07-2010 at 07:45 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
Nice writeup Brian. I'll keep saving my pennies then you can do my touring!
sketchy
I'm surprised by how well the 19s fit. All the others I've seen look too big but those look perfect.
Good job
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