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Thread: Review/mini diy: Stage 2 F1 Racing 16lb Flywheel Clutch Kit

  1. #1
    Join Date
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    '99 Cosmos M3 '93 Lincoln Town Car

    Review/mini diy: Stage 2 F1 Racing 16lb Flywheel Clutch Kit

    So I know many of you have been asking questions about these kits, and deciding whether to get it or not. Well, the answer is YES.

    I ended up getting the whole kit for about 500 shipped from gripforce on ebaymotors.

    So I was doing a ton of research before doing anything to the car. I found out what kind of parts I needed, what I should replace while in there, what kit to get, etc. So to everyone who still needs help and doesnt feel like researching(your loss), here you go! Just because Im feeling good today.

    Sachs Pressure plate
    F1 Racing Stage 2 6 sprung hub clutch disk
    F1 Racing Stage 2 16 Lightweight Flywheel
    Clutch Pedal - 35311158659
    Clutch Pivot Pin (steel replacement) - 21511223281
    Slave Cylinder - 21521159045 or 21526775924
    Throwout Bearing Guide Tube - 23111224845
    Throwout Bearing
    Clutch Fork Lever - 21511223302
    Pressure Plate Bolts (x8)- 07119906045 (I reused my old ones, I felt it was fine, but if your picky get these!)
    Flywheel Bolts (x6) - 11222243051
    Pilot Bearing - 11211720310

    Shifter Parts:
    Understeer SSK Kit with modified selector rod and Derlin Bushings
    Shift Carrier Arm Bushing (tranny) - 25117507695 (Dont get this if u get the derlin ones from Understeer)
    B*tch Clip - 25111221849
    Shift Carrier Arm Bushing (chassis) - 25111222015
    Shifter Bearing - 25111220600 or 25111469397
    Lower Shift Boot - 25111221700
    Selector Rod Endlink Clip (2x) - 25117571899
    Shift Rod Coupler - 25111222688



    Seals: (I didnt do any seals, but I guess its a good idea if you have the money)
    Rear Crankshaft Seal - 11141432240
    Transmission Output Shaft Seal - 23111224799
    Input Shaft Seal - 23211224820
    Rear Main Seal - 11142249533
    Selector Rod Seal - 23121282394

    Exhaust:
    18301716888 - Exhaust gaskets, triangle header flange (Asbestos Free) X2
    18101405737 - Exhaust gasket, midpipe to catback (Asbestos free) X1
    18111723379 - Exhaust gasket, midpipe to catback X1
    11621744232 - Exhaust nuts X4
    07119912524 - Exhaust bolts X4

    I also did the UUC SS Clutch Line, CDV removal, new UUC Clutch arm bushings, and a new Clutch Master and slave cylinder.

    Soo..I pretty much did everything clutch related

    My guibo looked almost brand new, so I didnt touch that. But if yours looks like shit, replace it by all means.
    Heres how it looks:





    Now..the process.


    1.First, drop the exhaust by removing the nuts from the header area(6) and then remove the hangers from the muffler(2 nuts). and get the midpipe hangers off the car and get the exhaust out.




    2.Take off the sound deadening(6 screw/nuts I believe)
    3. Drop the driveshaft. I only took off 3 bolts that is held on to the guibo. There are I think 2 or 3 types of bars or cross members under the driveshaft to hold it in place in case something horrible happens, take those off too, just nuts and bolts.



    4.Now drop the tranny. This isnt really DIFFICULT if you think about it. i believe there are 9 Fat torx bolts that hold it in place. If you buy E6-E16 sockets, your good to go for the whole car.


    Now, the key to removing the tranny is having trouble with the top 2 torx bolts.

    This is waht you need, its the magic wand in this operation.


    5. Once the tranny is removed, you can do all the shifter parts very easily, and add in all the stuff that goes in the bell housing. Heres what mine looked when I dropped it..horrible!



    do the clutch now. Remove the bolts that hold the pressure plate, then the flywheel bolts, replace everything and align it with the alignment tool.





    NOW, put everything back in reverse order and your done! took me 3 weeks only working on weekends because i had limited parts available and i was researching at the same time. but about 10 hours of work while eating a ton of sandwiches!

    Bleed the clutch after your done, and break in that new baby for about 500 miles with no revs more thatn 4k in my opinion.

    I have about 10 miles on the clutch kit and i have no gear noise. everything runs PERFECTLY, and my clutch point is dead on in the middle.

    I really hope this helps everyone as everyone has helped me in 2 years of my owning of the m3. Im just giving back now that I know a lot more than I did 2 years ago.



    BTW, this is my first clutch job! Feelin soooo accomplished and more together with my m3 now. <3
    1999 Cosmos ///M3 | Stromung Exhaust | BBS RXII's 18x8.5 +38 245/35/18 F/R | Bilstein H&R Combo Suspension | Matte Black Front Grill | K&N Air Filter | Front UUC Slotted Rotors | Front Hawk HPS pads | SS lines around | Xenons | Illuminated Shift Knob | Redline 75w-90 Diff | Redline MTL Tranny | Mobil1 10w-30 Engine |5mm Spacer Front | SS Clutch Line

  2. #2
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    1995 Alpine M3
    Great work, I'm loving ur list of parts as I'm just starting to accumulate all I can for this job. So far I think the only extras I'm gonna add are the detents and a flex disc.


  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by M3TAL View Post
    Great work, I'm loving ur list of parts as I'm just starting to accumulate all I can for this job. So far I think the only extras I'm gonna add are the detents and a flex disc.
    I was going to do the detents, but I had all the parts ready to go and to be installed, i just decided not to because this is my dd

    bump to anyone who hasnt seen it.
    Last edited by SkyylineGTR; 08-05-2010 at 05:53 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
    1999 Cosmos ///M3 | Stromung Exhaust | BBS RXII's 18x8.5 +38 245/35/18 F/R | Bilstein H&R Combo Suspension | Matte Black Front Grill | K&N Air Filter | Front UUC Slotted Rotors | Front Hawk HPS pads | SS lines around | Xenons | Illuminated Shift Knob | Redline 75w-90 Diff | Redline MTL Tranny | Mobil1 10w-30 Engine |5mm Spacer Front | SS Clutch Line

  4. #4
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    Bump. Thanks for the support guys..
    1999 Cosmos ///M3 | Stromung Exhaust | BBS RXII's 18x8.5 +38 245/35/18 F/R | Bilstein H&R Combo Suspension | Matte Black Front Grill | K&N Air Filter | Front UUC Slotted Rotors | Front Hawk HPS pads | SS lines around | Xenons | Illuminated Shift Knob | Redline 75w-90 Diff | Redline MTL Tranny | Mobil1 10w-30 Engine |5mm Spacer Front | SS Clutch Line

  5. #5
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    '95 M3, '17 Civic Si
    good work

    how is the pedal feel with this stage2 clutch?

    How is the clutch grabbing feel compared to stock parts?


    you need gear pullers and stuff to replace the TO-bearing?
    Last edited by das borgen; 08-07-2010 at 12:48 AM.
    -Rich-


  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by das borgen View Post
    good work

    how is the pedal feel with this stage2 clutch?

    How is the clutch grabbing feel compared to stock parts?


    you need gear pullers and stuff to replace the TO-bearing?
    pedal feels amazing. its right in between firm and soft. its exact. clutch point is right in the middle too.

    I feel like the clutch grab is like oem feel. but you do not need gear pullers or anything. just some standard tools.
    1999 Cosmos ///M3 | Stromung Exhaust | BBS RXII's 18x8.5 +38 245/35/18 F/R | Bilstein H&R Combo Suspension | Matte Black Front Grill | K&N Air Filter | Front UUC Slotted Rotors | Front Hawk HPS pads | SS lines around | Xenons | Illuminated Shift Knob | Redline 75w-90 Diff | Redline MTL Tranny | Mobil1 10w-30 Engine |5mm Spacer Front | SS Clutch Line

  7. #7
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    07/95 E36 ///M3
    AWESOME job man!
    Reading your review will definitely help a lot of guys change their heavy noisy flywheel for a better one.
    Thanks
    Feel any performance boost from the lighter flywheel?
    Current:
    1983 E21 320I ''Trusty stead!'' Ireland engineering suspension, solid strut bar, all stock
    1995 E36 ///M3 ''Could it be love? it is!'' so Much $$$$$ Dumped on this car!
    2002 E39 ///M5 ''Angry little thing!'' dinan tune, dinan diff, supersprint exhaust system overhaul...
    The goners:
    1992 E30 318is slicktop ''Knuckles'' volvo lip, full stock
    1992 E36 320i ''You did good little one'' Full stock
    1988 w124 Mercedes 250d ''Best car ever...EVER!'' Bone stock!

    Whatever you can ''faster'', I can do ''faster''!

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by mindstorm00 View Post
    AWESOME job man!
    Reading your review will definitely help a lot of guys change their heavy noisy flywheel for a better one.
    Thanks
    Feel any performance boost from the lighter flywheel?

    Dunno yet because I havent been rough with the clutch yet! I have to break it in for a good 500 miles then I will let it rip. i havent passed 3.5k rpms yet haha.

    its only been about 50 miles
    1999 Cosmos ///M3 | Stromung Exhaust | BBS RXII's 18x8.5 +38 245/35/18 F/R | Bilstein H&R Combo Suspension | Matte Black Front Grill | K&N Air Filter | Front UUC Slotted Rotors | Front Hawk HPS pads | SS lines around | Xenons | Illuminated Shift Knob | Redline 75w-90 Diff | Redline MTL Tranny | Mobil1 10w-30 Engine |5mm Spacer Front | SS Clutch Line

  9. #9
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    updates?

  10. #10
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    1989 Geo Metro
    Looks like an OEM flywheel with holes drilled out of it. You get what you pay for

  11. #11
    Join Date
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    1995 M3
    I've heard great things about these clutches and will be putting mine in soon

    [2.25" Magnaflow][3.38 LSD][GC Track/School][3.5" HFM][Cosmos V2 + Tuning][UUC Sway Bars][UUC Subframe Bushings, RTAB, RSM w/ Plates, Trans. Mounts][X-Brace][Brembos]

  12. #12
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    94 325 always in pieces
    Mine failed after a few thousand miles probably hit and miss as some owners have had great results.

  13. #13
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    Cosmos 95m3
    I've been using the Stage 4 clutch flywheel combo for about 6k miles now and no complaints

    my .02 is cheap and effective product. would buy again
    aa supercharger 11psi, F1 Racing Stage 4 Clutch, Fidanza 13lb flywheel, Bilstein shocks w/ HR Race, header back 3in exhaust, evo style front lip, Depo's w/ angel eyes

  14. #14
    Join Date
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    '99 Cosmos M3 '93 Lincoln Town Car
    its been 1200 miles. update:

    solid as hell. I hear no gearbox noise at all, revs much faster in 1st and 2nd.

    no problems at all.

    whoever is still considering. GET IT.
    1999 Cosmos ///M3 | Stromung Exhaust | BBS RXII's 18x8.5 +38 245/35/18 F/R | Bilstein H&R Combo Suspension | Matte Black Front Grill | K&N Air Filter | Front UUC Slotted Rotors | Front Hawk HPS pads | SS lines around | Xenons | Illuminated Shift Knob | Redline 75w-90 Diff | Redline MTL Tranny | Mobil1 10w-30 Engine |5mm Spacer Front | SS Clutch Line

  15. #15
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    red poopbox
    another +1 for gripforce racing!! i got a 14.45 lb LTW fly (exactly as they stated on their ads), flywheel bolts, Sachs organic clutch, Sachs pressure plate, Sachs throw-out bearing and clutch alignment tool for the killer price of $448 shipped!!

    LTW fly weighing in at 14.45LBs (exactly what they stated)...flywheel bolts were 0.85LBs


    Sachs clutch + pressure plate: 14.10LBs



    so altogether, 29.4LB rotational mass with the new kit...the stock setup is like a 30lb (95 M3) dual mass flywheel + approx 14lb clutch/pp coming to a toal of about 44lbs. approx -14.6LBs sounds good to me

    Element Tuning - 2008/2009 NJMP Redline Time Attack/Formula X Champions [Street & Modified]
    RightFootDown

    FS: E36 OEM fogs | UUC Chromoly RLCA's

  16. #16
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    What is that "magic wand" that you talk of?

  17. #17
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    a bunch of extensions in 1/4".
    The picture is above. When you see it, you'll see it.
    BF.c, where dudes talk with other dudes about gauges.

  18. #18
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    THats brilliant, so just undo the driveshaft and use a lots of 1/4th extensions to take the top torx out?

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Poppa Boner View Post
    a bunch of extensions in 1/4".
    The picture is above. When you see it, you'll see it.
    Not 1/4". You want to use 3/8", or if it fits, 1/2" though the 1/2" likely isn't necessary.

    1/4" would probably snap, or strip, break, be excessively wobbly.

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by shaeff View Post
    Not 1/4". You want to use 3/8", or if it fits, 1/2" though the 1/2" likely isn't necessary.

    1/4" would probably snap, or strip, break, be excessively wobbly.
    truth, not enough torque
    1999 Cosmos ///M3 | Stromung Exhaust | BBS RXII's 18x8.5 +38 245/35/18 F/R | Bilstein H&R Combo Suspension | Matte Black Front Grill | K&N Air Filter | Front UUC Slotted Rotors | Front Hawk HPS pads | SS lines around | Xenons | Illuminated Shift Knob | Redline 75w-90 Diff | Redline MTL Tranny | Mobil1 10w-30 Engine |5mm Spacer Front | SS Clutch Line

  21. #21
    NeilM is offline Member BMW E36 M3 Expert
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    I have a 30" long 1/2" drive extension that I use for that. Much easier to apply breakaway torque with it than using a 3/8".

    Neil

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by NeilM View Post
    I have a 30" long 1/2" drive extension that I use for that. Much easier to apply breakaway torque with it than using a 3/8".

    Neil
    For sure. I use 1/2" whenever I can for stuff like this. Having an impact gun certainly helps, too.

    I just meant that whomever is doing the job would want 3/8" at a minimum.

  23. #23
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    any updates on this clutch kit?


  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by Blink21Me View Post
    any updates on this clutch kit?
    No problems at all as of yet, and its been a while too. im currently at 162k.

    the only problem is the throw out bearing went out...soooo pissed about that.

    when i clutch in no noise, but clutch out and theres noise, and only when its warmed up thoroughly.

    Other than that, greatttt buy!
    1999 Cosmos ///M3 | Stromung Exhaust | BBS RXII's 18x8.5 +38 245/35/18 F/R | Bilstein H&R Combo Suspension | Matte Black Front Grill | K&N Air Filter | Front UUC Slotted Rotors | Front Hawk HPS pads | SS lines around | Xenons | Illuminated Shift Knob | Redline 75w-90 Diff | Redline MTL Tranny | Mobil1 10w-30 Engine |5mm Spacer Front | SS Clutch Line

  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by Volf View Post
    Looks like an OEM flywheel with holes drilled out of it. You get what you pay for
    Except the OEM ones are dual mass

    I've had mine for almost 15k now, no issues at all.


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