I am suspecting that the EML light has been disconnected from the car I purchased. Here is 5 seconds test. Run the instrument cluster (dashboard) self-testing program:
1.) With the ignition OFF, press and hold the 'Check Control' button (that's the stick-like button of the right side of the dashboard)
2.) While still holding the 'Check Control' button, turn the ignition to the ON position.
3.) Release the 'Check Control' button, the dashboard self-test testing program will execute displaying various informations...
One useful thing it does is to light up most lights (except (I believe) the FOG, TURN SIGNAL and EMERGENCY LIGHTS SIGNAL which are probably hardwired to some switch or relay that isn't directly controlled by the onboard computer and therefore cannot be controlled by a self-test program)
In the attached picture I've identified A) EML light, B) SEAT BELT light.
(I can't direct-upload picture with the message. In the center of the dashboard (among the oil-like distributor pictogram) there are 2 other pictograms (from left to right): EML, Seat Belt, Oil Pressure
QUESTION: anyone of you have the 'seat belt' or 'EML' lights ON during the self-test?
On my car, seat belt light does not light during the test (but it does work). My car does not have EML, so that light does not light up. I can't remember if the V8 cars have EML or not. . .
Question: does your tach and speedo just go to straight up and stay there, or does it sweep all the way to the right? Mine just goes straight up.
9/2004 Chevrolet Suburban Z71, black, purchased March 2016, 270k miles.
6/99 740i Cosmos Schwartz M Sport, 214k miles, purchased May 2017
2001 740i OrientBlau M Sport, purchased March 2023
1984 MasterCraft Stars and Stripes, Blue/White, PCM Ford 351W, PowerSlot, 912 hours, purchased September 2012 (not a car )
4/99 323is/5. Titansilber, 211k miles. Straight body project.
past BMWs: 5/1994 325isa (Arktisgrau), 3/1997 328is/5 (cosmosschwartz), 9/1990 535i/5 (calypsorot), 9/1990 318i/5 (brillantrot) 7/93 325i/5 convertible (samoablau) 2/92 325i/5 cabriolet (lagunengruen).
SÜNDE REISEN
Display shows VIN, software version etc instead of 'fasten seat belts'
Speedo goes to 80mph (not vertical), tacho goes to 3500rmp(vertical), temp, fuel and mpg go full scale.
Main beam and indicator warning lights do not come (I dont have EML either so that doesnt) but rest do.
Seat belt light and seat belt warning gong come on as normal.
Yeah 80 mph and 3500 rpms is what mine does. Should have been more specific.
edit: and contrary to what I said this morning, the seat belt light is on the whole time. I guess I wasn't awake yet lol.
Last edited by strad; 05-14-2010 at 03:56 PM.
9/2004 Chevrolet Suburban Z71, black, purchased March 2016, 270k miles.
6/99 740i Cosmos Schwartz M Sport, 214k miles, purchased May 2017
2001 740i OrientBlau M Sport, purchased March 2023
1984 MasterCraft Stars and Stripes, Blue/White, PCM Ford 351W, PowerSlot, 912 hours, purchased September 2012 (not a car )
4/99 323is/5. Titansilber, 211k miles. Straight body project.
past BMWs: 5/1994 325isa (Arktisgrau), 3/1997 328is/5 (cosmosschwartz), 9/1990 535i/5 (calypsorot), 9/1990 318i/5 (brillantrot) 7/93 325i/5 convertible (samoablau) 2/92 325i/5 cabriolet (lagunengruen).
SÜNDE REISEN
I tried doing this, but it won't work, I pressed the button, held it while turning the key to the ON position then released it, but no go
It should sweep through the whole speedo/tacho/water/fuelmeter. From beginning to end of the meters. Not only half way. Atleast that has been the case on all e34's i have done this cluster test on (and that is easily over 10 different ones).
This test is great to do when you wanna see if the cluster is faulty or if any of the sensors are that sends the signal to the respective gauge.
Or to check if the cluster has ever been changed without switching over the correct coding plug (so you can see if it's been manipulated).
Last edited by M Quick; 05-30-2010 at 04:59 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
Never tried this before. I will be checking this out after church!
There are no athiests at 150 mph
I posted this a while back. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=110kbznTBDU
Last edited by shogun; 12-26-2021 at 05:03 AM.
BMW CCA #434501
[ 127k Miles | Dinan Engine & Trans chips | LSD | AFE Pro 5 R Air Filter | ANSA Exhaust | BavAuto Springs | Bilstein Sport shocks | | Racing Dynamics front strut brace | BavAuto DTM Lip | Driver-side wiper arm upgrade | Euro LKM ECE-B | French Market E1 Spec Hella Lows (HID 4500K 55w DDM Raptor v2) and Highs (Osram Nightbreaker +90) | HID Projector Fogs - 3000K 35w DDM Raptor v2 | LED Interior lights with Shogun's Dimmer kit | 7 Series Rear Map lights | Euro clear parking, tail and signal lamps]
Very cool i'll have to give this a try.
Hmm strange, seems like US cars don't have the speedo nor tachometer go all the way when doing the test.. Why i wonder. Why do they only go half way.
Dunno, it is what it is.
looks like my EML was lit... (if you mean the CEL?, I have no idea what an EML is)
Of course, that one is easy to test. turn the key on and don't start the car. It should be illuminated.
Last edited by attack eagle; 05-31-2010 at 06:49 AM.
EML is the electromanual throttle control (DBW essentially)
I own mostly junk. Except the Porsche, that's kind of cool.
All the motorcycles are trash which you can read about at
http://oneguytwowheels.blogspot.com/
I'll update it eventually
Thansk
ahh, thanks G.
EML is also an anacronym for Engine Malfunction Lamp on some other boards.
My instrument cluster still isn't doing it, and I did everything correctly?
Try again.
I tried for 15 minutes previously, and just tried again with no luck at all.
I'll have to try this, but I think my check control button is missing....so that would suck.
I've read the last page of the Bible. It's all going to turn out all right.
M30 quarter-million mile club
12/88 Production Date
SOLD it....
EML light should not light up on a non-EML equipped car. It would not be wired for this.
If your EML light comes on and you do not have EML, then your cluster is actually faulty. Ask me how I know..
Here's my '92. Only difference seem to be the battery light position...
now, what's F.G.NR? K-ZAHL? ÄND.INDEX?
[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4OBAzwaEpWI"]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4OBAzwaEpWI[/ame]
...And, yes, you read right, the car is reaching it's 15th turn around earth.
weird, my dash isn't doing it still, and I know I'm doing it right, what gives?
That's because euro cars doesn't have that fancy features. There is one cable missing from the dme to the cluster that makes it blink to diagnose and to tell when something is wrong. You can wire it up as a DIY to make it work just like US cars would though.
Is your reset switch working? It's pretty common that this reset switch stops working on some clusters. Otherwise you're doing it wrong. Or not pushing it in enough under those seconds while turning on ign.
F.G.NR? = Fahr Gestell Nummer = chassis number, VIN
K-ZAHL? = Impulses per kilometer for speedometer
ÄND.INDEX = Aenderungs Index = (updated) Software version
the code plug is essentially an EEPROM that contains information such as
- scaling factor for the speedometer (including the rear differential ratio)
- scaling factor for the tachometer
- scaling factor for the fuel gauge
- number of engine cylinders (4,6,8,12)
- data about fuel consumption
- info if econometer or oil temperature gauge
- km vs miles
- fuel tank size (80,81,90)
- data about service interval
- odometer
- chassis number
- code plug number
- BMW specific number
- software version
As you understand most of these numbers must match you car, otherwise a lot of the information displayed in the instrument cluster and OBC will be incorrect. So you can not simply take a code plug from any arbitrary model and put into your car.
If the value describing the number of cylinders is mismatched, then the tachometer will show incorrect value. Also the econometer will show incorrect value as well as all the OBC functions regarding fuel consumption (since the fuel consumption calculations are based on the fuel injector opening times and number of cylinders).
Pay extra attention when you want to remove a code plug. You should disconnect all connectors on the back of the instrument cluster with the battery disconnected and wait a few minutes for all residual power to drain to keep from damaging the memory on the code plug.
Also since the OBC shares data with the code plug, the plug to the OBC on the back of it must be disconnected and wait at least one minute after the code plug has been changed. This will reset the OBC for the new coding plug.
https://www.bmwe34.net/E34main/Maint...Capacitors.htm
Shogun tricks and tips for the E32 series are HERE!
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