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Thread: 528i Overheating

  1. #1
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    528i Overheating

    My BMW just started overheating. It doesn't do it on the interstate or when driving. It only does it when it is at a stop light.

    I replaced the thermostat in it a few months ago, and flushed the cooling system while doing that.

    I got an error code as well: P0441 - EVAP no purge flow detected

    Seems unrelated, but the only thing I noticed that could be wrong is the electric fan doesn't spin. Other than that every thing seems fine. Thermostat isn't that old, Mechanical fan is working, coolant level is good.

    What could be the problem?

  2. #2
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    When doing cooling work--it's a given to do all of the parts at one time--when one goes the others are sure to follow--my guess on which one is giving trouble at this point would be the fan clutch--your sure you bled the cooling system correctly
    Last edited by Poolman; 04-28-2010 at 08:00 PM.

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by Xeniczone View Post
    My BMW just started overheating. It doesn't do it on the interstate or when driving. It only does it when it is at a stop light.

    I replaced the thermostat in it a few months ago, and flushed the cooling system while doing that.

    I got an error code as well: P0441 - EVAP no purge flow detected

    Seems unrelated, but the only thing I noticed that could be wrong is the electric fan doesn't spin. Other than that every thing seems fine. Thermostat isn't that old, Mechanical fan is working, coolant level is good.

    What could be the problem?
    - Likely bad Fan Clutch.

    - In your cooling system, anything not yet replaced in the cooling system ---> replace them ASAP. A few episodes of overheat and you are in for a much more expensive repair $3000-4000!

    - Here is the DIY for 1998 528i I wrote back in 2006 (Edit: do not use MTC Fan Blade, use Dealer Fan Blade only):

    http://www.bimmerboard.com/forums/posts/199986

  4. #4
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    could be the clutch but could also be an air bubble in the system (that was my problem). Agree - don't let that baby O/H.....

  5. #5
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    Here is something interesting.

    1. When driving the cars temp is ideal.
    2. When at a stop light the car starts to heat up.

    1. When driving the car blows heat w/ the heater on.
    2. When at a stop light the car blows cold w/ the heater on.

    This is puzzling to me. I though it had something to do with the engines RPMs. So I stopped in a parking lot. Let it idle till the temperature started to go up. I rev'd the engine to 2000 RPM and held it there. The engine heated up faster.

  6. #6
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    air bubbles are scary, when I was working on my cooling system that is one thing i worked hard to make sure didn't happen...

  7. #7
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    I also + 1 on the bleeding. . check for air bubbles. . . I had this problem once and got the thermostat changed and the housing. . exactly 1 week later it did it again, ONLY when I was stopped, , then ended up checking for airbubles, and BELIEVE IT OR NOT I changed the thermostat again, and the problem went away. . .

    But number 1 thing is to bleed the system, and make 100% sure that isn't the problem

  8. #8
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    do not screw around with it take it to a shop.

  9. #9
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    I bleed it when I first redid the thermostat. I could try it again, but I don't think that explains this.

    http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...26&postcount=5

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Xeniczone View Post
    I bleed it when I first redid the thermostat. I could try it again, but I don't think that explains this.

    http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...26&postcount=5

    Actually it may very well explain it. try this bleeding procedure it may save you a lot of cost and frustration. worst case it cost you 10 minutes.

    http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...post&t=1423821

    many with similar issues to yours have successfully fixed them after following those instructions, give it a shot.
    Last edited by NNY528I; 04-28-2010 at 11:53 PM.
    >'97 528i, 200000 miles, Hella Xenons, 17" Stilauto wheels, Vogtland Drop Springs, Dynomax Race Muffler, Homelink, 540 brake upgrade, 15mm spacers >'65 & '74 MG Midgets BFC OT Lego Club #48 Manual conversion in process!!!



  11. #11
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    I agree that you should bleed the system thoroughly again, it costs virtually nothing.

    However, for the next few weeks/months, keep very close eyes on the coolant level and engine temp gauge. It does not take much to warp the cyl head or blow a head gasket (now it is $3000-4000 to fix).

    As I mentioned above, if you have more than 100K, do a cooling overhaul. Any parts you already replaced, keep them, any part(s) with more than 100K, replace them.

  12. #12
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    Thanks guys. I will definitely try this today.

    I'm not really interested in doing a cooling system overhaul, because I plan on replacing the engine with either an L47 or LS1 over the summer. I just need to keep this engine alive long enough to do that

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Xeniczone View Post
    Here is something interesting.

    1. When driving the cars temp is ideal.
    2. When at a stop light the car starts to heat up.

    1. When driving the car blows heat w/ the heater on.
    2. When at a stop light the car blows cold w/ the heater on.

    This is puzzling to me. I though it had something to do with the engines RPMs. So I stopped in a parking lot. Let it idle till the temperature started to go up. I rev'd the engine to 2000 RPM and held it there. The engine heated up faster.
    this clearly indicates air in the system, but you may also have a bad fan clutch. Does the auxillary fan come on when you turn the AC on?

    John
    2001 540i/6 - 144k

    1997 328 ic - 67k
    hardtop

    2008 328i 6spd 88k

    2008 328i 84k auto

    1998 328i sedan 5 speed - 190k RIP
    1995 325i sedan - Hellrot - 124k RIP

  14. #14
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    You're going to put an engine for an old's Aurora in your BMW?

    [ame]http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Northstar_engine_series[/ame]

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by dadcab View Post
    You're going to put an engine for an old's Aurora in your BMW?

    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Northstar_engine_series
    Yeah, I think thats a great engine. It's 100 percent aluminum, and a Indy version of it was tuned to 650 horse power, naturally aspirated. Plus I see Aurora's with bad transmissions or have been wrecked go for 500-1000 dollars.

    this clearly indicates air in the system, but you may also have a bad fan clutch. Does the auxillary fan come on when you turn the AC on?
    It turns on with the AC. So I guess it does work.

    Bleeding the coolant seems to have fixed the problem. It blows warm air at idle, and doesn't overheat.

    Only I think it's too late to avoid damage.

    Here is a sound that it's making. It sounds like a diesel or nocking sound from the cylinder closest to the bumper. Not sure how the I6 is numbered.

    Don't turn it up too loud, I rev the engine to 2500 twice somewhere in the middle.

    http://xeniczone.com/BMWI6528.m4a
    Last edited by Xeniczone; 04-29-2010 at 07:12 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Xeniczone View Post
    Yeah, I think thats a great engine. It's 100 percent aluminum, and a Indy version of it was tuned to 650 horse power, naturally aspirated. Plus I see Aurora's with bad transmissions or have been wrecked go for 500-1000 dollars.



    It turns on with the AC. So I guess it does work.

    Bleeding the coolant seems to have fixed the problem. It blows warm air at idle, and doesn't overheat.

    Only I think it's too late to avoid damage.

    Here is a sound that it's making. It sounds like a diesel or nocking sound from the cylinder closest to the bumper. Not sure how the I6 is numbered.

    Don't turn it up too loud, I rev the engine to 2500 twice somewhere in the middle.

    http://xeniczone.com/BMWI6528.m4a

    Another satisfied customer
    >'97 528i, 200000 miles, Hella Xenons, 17" Stilauto wheels, Vogtland Drop Springs, Dynomax Race Muffler, Homelink, 540 brake upgrade, 15mm spacers >'65 & '74 MG Midgets BFC OT Lego Club #48 Manual conversion in process!!!



  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by NNY528I View Post
    Another satisfied customer
    Are you saying the noise is normal?

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Xeniczone View Post
    Are you saying the noise is normal?
    No im saying you followed my bleeding procedure and now your car is not overheating. your video doesnt work.
    >'97 528i, 200000 miles, Hella Xenons, 17" Stilauto wheels, Vogtland Drop Springs, Dynomax Race Muffler, Homelink, 540 brake upgrade, 15mm spacers >'65 & '74 MG Midgets BFC OT Lego Club #48 Manual conversion in process!!!



  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by cnn View Post
    Here is the DIY for 1998 528i I wrote back in 2006 (Edit: do not use MTC Fan Blade, use Dealer Fan Blade only):

    http://www.bimmerboard.com/forums/posts/199986
    Another edit for the auto guys is to note that before I could pull the radiator I had to remove the auto trans cooler lines + the power steering lines that mount next to the radiator, on the drivers side.

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by NNY528I View Post
    No im saying you followed my bleeding procedure and now your car is not overheating. your video doesnt work.
    Yeah, not sure why the video doesn't work, but yeah. Your bleeding procedure work perfectly! Thanks.

    The noise sounds like a rod bearing or a knocking. Turned out to be a spark plug that had gotten loose.

  21. #21
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    Bleed the cooling system. This had me dumbfounded for months. Only to find out there's a proper way of bleeding the cooling system. See the section on Bleeding the Cooling System on this PDF: http://www.bavauto.com/newsletter/20...ter.pdf#page=3

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by alxvry View Post
    Bleed the cooling system. This had me dumbfounded for months. Only to find out there's a proper way of bleeding the cooling system. See the section on Bleeding the Cooling System on this PDF: http://www.bavauto.com/newsletter/20...ter.pdf#page=3
    Actually it is this procedure that has caused many here so much trouble, for certain BMWs the above process works well but for the e39 it seems to cause as many issues as it solves. The cold bleeding procedure posted above has proven to be very straightforward and has a near perfect success rate. Thanks for the info.
    >'97 528i, 200000 miles, Hella Xenons, 17" Stilauto wheels, Vogtland Drop Springs, Dynomax Race Muffler, Homelink, 540 brake upgrade, 15mm spacers >'65 & '74 MG Midgets BFC OT Lego Club #48 Manual conversion in process!!!



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