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Thread: DIY Fix Loose Door Panel

  1. #1
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    '96 328iC, '89 325i

    DIY Fix Loose Door Panel

    I have had this problem since I bought the car (5 months ago) and it is not a big deal, not too noticeable, unless you drive the car every day. Since I like to have everything looking new and nice, a loose door panel is unacceptable. I searched online for a good DIY but I wasn't satisfied with what I found so I decided to make one as I fixed this problem myself (forgive me if this is a repeat but I didn't find a similar DIY on this site and I thought this could be useful to others as well).

    The work was performed on a 1996 328i convertible. It does not have side airbags and therefore these instructions do not include how to safely work around an airbag.
    Proceed at your own risk. This worked for me, it might not work for you. I am not responsible if you damage your car.

    The problem: (used to be about a 1/2" gap, I managed to fix it a little but not enough)


    After it was fixed per my DIY:


    Materials/tools:

    contact glue
    glue gun (with high temp setting)
    duct tape (optional)
    screw driver with T20 Torx bit and a long skinny extension
    needle nose pliers (makes grabbing little things in little holes easier)
    a dark colored marker

    **This DIY will probably require some new pins to hold your door together properly. Here is a link to the RealOEM diagram of the door panel: http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...1&fg=50&hl=587
    The clip that is needed is part 6 in the diagram and p/n: 51411973500
    They are cheap! (23 cents at bmwpartscounter.com) I would suggest ordering 30 new pins so you can replace all of them with new ones and you will have a few extras in case you break one or two while installing them (they are a little fragile).

    My glue gun (notice high temp)


    Contact glue (this is what the guy at the hardware store recommended, I don't think the brand matters)


    Duct tape (optional)


    T20 Torx bit


    The first step is to remove all of the screws holding the doors in place. They are covered by little caps that pry off easily with a finger nail or screw driver (careful with the screw driver, don't want to put a hole in the nice door panel). Locations of these screws are two under the door handle on the driver's side two under the door handle, and one IN the vertical section of the passenger side door handle (see pictures). All of these screws require a T20 Torx bit. This is where the pliers come in handy to retrieve the screws from their holes.

    Screws under door handle on both passenger and driver sides.


    Screw IN door handle on passenger side. You will need a long skinny screwdriver to reach this screw.


    This is what the filler caps look like.


    Next, the door handle trim must be removed. To remove the trim from both doors, simply forcefully pry it forwards to the front of the car with your fingers. It should pop off (the trim is reinstalled by doing the opposite).

    Handle after trim was removed (passenger side).


    After all of the screws and handle trim have been removed, it is time to remove the door panels.
    **Be careful when removing the panels as the speakers and the side view mirror controls are in the door panel and wired to the door. If you pull the panel off and you aren't careful you could damage the wiring.**
    There are pins located around the left, right, and bottom edges of the door that should pop out with some force. Along the top edge of the door there are metal clips that may require a little more force to separate from. It is most likely that if you are performing this DIY then the glue holding all of your pins and clips to the door is bad (like mine was) which is the cause of the loose panel problem. Since this is probably the case, do not be alarmed if some parts of the inside of the door panel rip off and stay stuck to the door (the top edges of both my doors came completely off and stayed stuck to the door) this will be fixed later.
    **If any pieces come off, mark where they were attached to the door panel with the marker so you know where to glue them back into place later.**

    Inside of car door with everything removed.


    Picture of the inside of the door panel (sorry this is a picture of after all repair work was done, I forgot to take one before I did the fix. I guess I was too excited that I was actually going to fix the darn things).


    First, attend to all of the pins in each door (the white things around the edge of the door). A few of them are probably broken (even if they don't look it). Check for broken pins and replace them. They screw in and if you are determined enough they can also screw out (or you can just break them to remove them). If you are cheap and you didn't buy new pins you will have a fun time moving them all around to put the good pins in the important places (like the corners).

    After you attend to the pins it is time to use the contact glue (or whatever you think would work best).

    Apply the contact glue as per the instructions that came with the glue. Apply this glue to any parts that came off completely or any parts that are loose. Make sure the pieces are positioned exactly as they were before you took the panel off so that it will fit back the way it was originally. I found that the contact glue seemed to be a little weak, so I decided to supplement it with hot glue and duct tape. After that, all the parts seemed to be very solidly reattached to the panel.

    I put hot glue in the gap between the bottom of the pockets and the bottom of the panel.


    I put hot glue in this edge as well since this seemed to be a problem piece. **Beware, after I put the panel back into the car I could just barely see the glue in this gap from the outside of the car, and only because I was looking for it. So if your the kind of person who would be upset to see glue on your car, don't put it here.


    Some more pictures of the hot glue:




    Here I tested some silicone to see how it would stick (another DIY said to use silicone). It peeled right off. Silicone=no good.


    Finished door.


    To reinstall the panels, first plug the wires back into the door, next line up the pins, then PUSH the panel back into place (make sure all of the pins are clipped in), put the screws back, replace the door handle trim, and you're good to go.

    My car (dad's car in the background).
    Last edited by cpalella; 03-07-2010 at 02:30 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost


    '96 328iC, '96 328i, '89 s52 swapped 325i
    Shadetree30

  2. #2
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    How do I put this in the DIY section? or does a senior member need to move it?


    '96 328iC, '96 328i, '89 s52 swapped 325i
    Shadetree30

  3. #3
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    A mod will do it, you may have to PM them.

  4. #4
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    oh okay thanks


    '96 328iC, '96 328i, '89 s52 swapped 325i
    Shadetree30

  5. #5
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    Moved, thanks for the DIY!


    Quote Originally Posted by ClintonM3 View Post
    the Audi A4 is a tweaked, cosmetically enhanced, cross platform, put-together overnight VW.
    Quote Originally Posted by joeuser528e View Post
    Staggard setups are for cars that you park at show meets. They go well with 5 screens and 3 12"s.

  6. #6
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    Moved, thanks for the DIY!
    your welcome i had fun

    and thanks for moving it


    '96 328iC, '96 328i, '89 s52 swapped 325i
    Shadetree30

  7. #7
    Join Date
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    To the OP and anyone interested..

    Have you had your panels come back apart after you "fixed" them? I have tried several varieties of hot-glue, construction adhesive, and finally two-part epoxy... with little to no success on anything but the epoxy (for any amount of time).. Due to car heat (when left in the sun with windows up) and vibration of driving/door opening/closing, this seems like a pretty tough job for most "walmart" adhesives..

    Thoughts on specific type of adhesive other than hot glue?
    Last edited by HotDoggin; 05-23-2011 at 01:02 PM.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by HotDoggin View Post
    To the OP and anyone interested..

    Have you had your panels come back apart after you "fixed" them? I have tried several varieties of hot-glue, construction adhesive, and finally two-part epoxy... with little to no success on anything but the epoxy (for any amount of time).. Due to car heat (when left in the sun with windows up) and vibration of driving/door opening/closing, this seems like a pretty tough job for most "walmart" adhesives..

    Thoughts on specific type of adhesive other than hot glue?
    Actually they did come apart about a month after I "fixed" them. I meant to update the thread.

    The second time around I used a 2 part epoxy, I forget which one, and it has held together since, about a year. I think it was an extra strength epoxy for many materials, including plastic and wood.

    I think the most dangerous threat to the door panels is having someone slam the door shut, so just make sure to tell passengers to gently close the doors.


    '96 328iC, '96 328i, '89 s52 swapped 325i
    Shadetree30

  9. #9
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    I used gorilla glue and clamps to hold everything together as it set. It's been perfect for about a year now. No problems what-so-ever. Honestly from what I've read about this fix Gorilla Glue seems to be the best. But the key to the whole thing is using clamps to hold the panels together as you do it. I just did one piece at a time with 3-4 clamps to lock them down.
    1995 M3 Coupe - Cosmos - CES Built S52 Bottom End - JE Pistons - Eagle Rods - S52 Cams - GT3582R - SPA T3/4 Manifold - RK Tuned - 513rwhp
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  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by ty20404 View Post
    I used gorilla glue and clamps to hold everything together as it set. It's been perfect for about a year now. No problems what-so-ever. Honestly from what I've read about this fix Gorilla Glue seems to be the best. But the key to the whole thing is using clamps to hold the panels together as you do it. I just did one piece at a time with 3-4 clamps to lock them down.
    Yea I think that was the trick. Now that I remember I also used clamps the second time around, that plus the better glue probably made the difference.


    '96 328iC, '96 328i, '89 s52 swapped 325i
    Shadetree30

  11. #11
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    1992 BMW 325i
    How would I find what other model years would be compatible with my 93 325i's busted driver side door panel

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by EnfamousEnrique View Post
    How would I find what other model years would be compatible with my 93 325i's busted driver side door panel
    go to realoem.com and check part numbers.... but I think it just depends on if its a coupe or sedan. Im not 100% sure but I think the door panels are all the same in e36s regardless of year.


    '96 328iC, '96 328i, '89 s52 swapped 325i
    Shadetree30

  13. #13
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    Tried contact cement, epoxy, hot glue many years ago. None worked for more than a few weeks. Gorilla glue was the last attempt, about 10 years ago still holding strong!

    Secure clamping while the glue cures is critical. Buy a dozen inexpensive spring clamps & grab a half dozen wooden paint stirring sticks. Align upper piece that clips over door metal, mark it & remove the part. Clean all remnants of old glue from the panel & upper attaching bracket. Sand both surfaces with coarse paper to rough up surface.

    The real issue is the material used on the panel. The backing panel is made from some unusual, likely recycled composite plastic. Its surface is glossy and almost oily. Consequently it does not take adhesives well (this issue was identified many, many years ago early in the E36's life). Removing the glossy/oily surface is key to success. After sanding, wipe down with a light solvent.

    Apply Gorilla Glue as defined, be careful to keep a distance from any visible surface as it does expand & will ooze out ruining the appearance (visible looking down at window seal area).

    Use paint sticks to protect & distribute force over the surface of the door panel, as the clamps can leave an impression in the leather/vinyl upholstery. Ensure alignment and put clamps all along the top, more the better. I used sixteen Vice Grip welding clamps (only because I had them) but the cheap plastic spring clamps are perfect. Keep an eye on the alignment as the glue cures, since it can & will squirm around due to the expansion as glue cures & expands.

    Clean up any oozing that might be visible, don't get on skin (wear gloves), like expanding spray foam, it is impossible to remove, collects dirt & will need to "wear off" your skin over several days/weeks.

    Reinstall with new retaining snap in rivets & forget about it for the rest of the car's life.

  14. #14
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    Silicone worked well for me. Agreed, a good job at cleaning and clamping up everything makes a big difference. I took my time and clamped up things piece by piece and let them dry for a couple of days before moving on to the next piece of the door.

  15. #15
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    I will try the spray kind of contact cement, because hot glue and tube silicone has failed 3x already, although last time's fix is holding up ok, but i can feel the bottom pockets rattle now and then.

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by mefistoca View Post
    I will try the spray kind of contact cement, because hot glue and tube silicone has failed 3x already, although last time's fix is holding up ok, but i can feel the bottom pockets rattle now and then.
    Did you try epoxy or gorilla glue? The epoxy has held for me for over a year and I think someone used gorilla glue with similar results. I tried contact cement first and it only held for about a month.


    '96 328iC, '96 328i, '89 s52 swapped 325i
    Shadetree30

  17. #17
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    This is the stuff that I used, make sure you prep the area with some alcohol 90% if you can get it. After you wipe an area with your rag and it gets dirty move to a clean part of the rag, otherwise your are just spreading the dirt around. Remember be liberal with the alcohol and keep wiping your surface till your rag doesn't pick up any dirt. That is the most important part of this DIY. You can use the strongest glue in the world, but if you don't prep your surface it is all worthless. Maybe that is why your silicone didn't stick cpalella. Anyway when this stuff hardens it is there almost forever.

    http://www.loctiteproducts.com/p/12/...n-Adhesive.htm

    You can pick this stuff up at home depot for about $7, remember that you will need a caulking gun. Cut the tip off at the 1/4 mark. When you are applying this stuff the the surface DO NOT make a strait line like this -------------- across your surface. You want to maximize the surface area and make a squiggle like this ~~~~~~~~. I live is South Florida and we have high heat and humidity and so far so good. Good luck.

  18. #18
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    I ended up using 3 x #10 screws with speed nuts for each pin rails and 4 x #8 screws with speed nuts for the two pocket pieces in addition to goop glue from Lowes. I will get some color match pens and color the zinc color screw tops to tan later.

    So far, the panel is rock solid.
    Alpine 318ic FTMFW!

  19. #19
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    Glues to use

    Hi Guys
    When it comes to glue my experience is...well either 3M contact cement or if it really has to be clued use Marine adhesives like "3M 5200" or
    "Sicaflex". Sicaflex has different product numbers for different applications. The only downside is, minimum 24 hours curing time.
    Keep in mind that pretty much 99% of all contact cements will re-activate (go soft) at over 80 degrees celsius and most of them break down in contact with water or humidity.
    3M has a contact cement what will stay stable up to 180 Degrees celsius but you are paying for it......
    I do have pics on flickr so email me if you want them

    Wolf

  20. #20
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    Thanks, will save this to book marks, will have to fix mine soon as it rattles!

  21. #21
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    Well just a little update... did this 2.5 years ago with epoxy and it is still holding very strong, nothing loose or rattling. Just as solid as the day I did it.


    '96 328iC, '96 328i, '89 s52 swapped 325i
    Shadetree30

  22. #22
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    doing this today!!

  23. #23
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    I used commercial grade glue with the hot glue gum. It is the yellow sticks. Worked like a charm!

  24. #24
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    If you want a permanent fix, use windshield adhesive. It is strong, permanent, and changing temperatures don't even phase it (remember, it has to keep your windshield secure). You can buy them at any parts store and you will need a caulking gun to apply it. Whether your surface is dirty or not, squirt that stuff on there, apply it around, let it cure over night (with weight being applied on top or secured with duct tape), then next morning, voila. Permanently secured. Forever.

  25. #25
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    Former bmw tech here. Best adhesive to use to hold it all together is black polyurethane sealant for holding windshields in place. That's what we always used. Clamp the parts down while they cure.

    Sent from my SPH-D710 using Tapatalk 2

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