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Thread: how do I break into my trunk?

  1. #1
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    how do I break into my trunk?

    I have a e30 325is.. The keys won't turn the lock. The only way to unlock the trunk is to use the central locking system with a key in one of the doors. The problem is that the CLS has stopped working because fuse #27 has blown. Fuse #27 controls the OBC, interior lights, the CLS and the factory amplifier which is located in the trunk.

    I have recently had the factory amp taken out of the car in order to install a newer cd player in the car. I have also hooked up an amplifier and a subwoofer. I have reason to believe that the short is caused by the stereo system.. which in turn roasted something under my hood and now the engine is running warmer than usual.

    Either way, I need to get into the trunk and I'm pretty low on options.. How should I go about breaking into the trunk?

  2. #2
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    BFH, Buddy, BFH.

    (I'm sorry. I wish I could help you, but I really cannot. I hope it works out for you.)

    Actually, there's gotta be a way to get in through the back seat, doesn't there? And if your car has one of those child-unlock things, maybe you can grab that?

  3. #3
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    key

    Try pushing the key into the trunk lock by "wiggling" it while going in. You may have to push pretty hard. DO NOT twist the key so that it would bend or break. I am talking about a slight wiggle.

    Once you get the key in wiggle it "in and out" while you turn it to unlock the trunk. IT may take a little work but keep trying.

    On my 86 I had to use a hammer to get the key in and I used pliers to turn the key while I was wiggling it.

    My key actually bent a little, but I was being careful to not break it off in the lock. It took me about 5 minutes to get it unlocked. To my surprise, once it unlocked, the key would go in and out easily as well as turn.

    I am not recommending you use a hammer and pliers, but I was at the point that I was ready to drill out the lock so I figured what the heck......'

    Good luck!

  4. #4
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    I managed to get into the trunk.. I unhooked my amp and subwoofer and removed it from the car. then I noticed that the plug in for the factory amp was sitting in or near a puddle of water where the jack and tire iron go. the water got in through the power antenna hole because the rubber gasket is gone.

    Tried plugging back in #27 fuse to see if I had found but that def didn't solve my problem.

    What is the Bosch unit underneath/beside the Coolant expansion tank and beside the air intake box...???? Thats where the smoke comes from when the fuse is plugged back in.

    The engine is running hot after the short happened so I thought it was the fan that shorted out but I looked and the fan is still spinning..

  5. #5
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    Bosch unit next to airbox should be the air flow meter. I've heard of them going up in smoke - literally - before, so that's probably it.
    Quote Originally Posted by B4SH View Post
    If anyone knows, it's this guy who knows literally nothing about everything.
    Quote Originally Posted by fcvapor05 View Post
    Do you even OT? The mean 401k around here is probably about $6, what with all the shiny cars and $1,000 watches and donations to get other members' Volvos running.


  6. #6
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    dont think its the AFM.. thats the part that is connected between the air intake box and the throttle body right?

    if thats what ur talking about then that is not what started to smoke.

    ABS pump is between the expansion tank and the airbox i think..

    could also just be the cooling fan has kicked the bucket..

    I'm so frustrated with this piece of shit, im ready to just sell it and buy a plasma screen and ps3 lol

  7. #7
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    ok. calm down. count to ten and think about what your just said.

    Quote Originally Posted by AlexHochbmw View Post
    I'm so frustrated with this piece of shit, im ready to just sell it and buy a plasma screen and ps3 lol

  8. #8
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    For archival purposes, you can smash the tail light and get into the trunk.
    2011 M3 Sedan
    2006 GMC Sierra 2500HD LBZ
    1999 323i GTS2
    1995 M3 - S50B32/S6S420G/3.91
    1990 325is
    1989 M3 - S54B32/GS6-37BZ

    Hers: 1996 Porsche 911 Turbo
    Hers: 1989 325iX


  9. #9
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    A boneyard taillight costs $20-$30. I believe that left side ones are more likely to be damaged by parking, so break out the right side. Be careful not bend the body metal, as that will cost much more to fix.

    Once out you can reach in, open the toolbox, get the 10mm wrench and slowly unbolt the loop attached to the trunk lid.

    When replacing the lock loop, leave the taillight out until after you have it adjusted perfectly and are certain that it opens smoothly. I didn't even think about this when replacing one, and was really, really happy that a taillight was already removed. Otherwise I would have been breaking out a just-replaced one.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by nick325xit 5spd View Post
    For archival purposes, you can smash the tail light and get into the trunk.
    It is easier and cleaner to take out the back seat and cut the pre-punched ski-hole wider. Then you can just squeeze on in to the trunk. Once in, you can unbolt the lock mechanism.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bobby Bonko View Post
    It is easier and cleaner to take out the back seat and cut the pre-punched ski-hole wider. Then you can just squeeze on in to the trunk. Once in, you can unbolt the lock mechanism.
    Maybe you can do that. I sure as hell can't.
    2011 M3 Sedan
    2006 GMC Sierra 2500HD LBZ
    1999 323i GTS2
    1995 M3 - S50B32/S6S420G/3.91
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    1989 M3 - S54B32/GS6-37BZ

    Hers: 1996 Porsche 911 Turbo
    Hers: 1989 325iX


  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by nick325xit 5spd View Post
    Maybe you can do that. I sure as hell can't.
    lol, ya being slender may help.

  13. #13
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    richardodn is offline Old Guy BMW CCA Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bobby Bonko View Post
    lol, ya being slender may help.
    That's what kids are for.
    "Howdy, Folks!"

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  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by richardodn View Post
    That's what kids are for.
    I'll buy you a toy if you wiggle into my dark trunk and unscrew that bolt in the most cramped area you can imagine.

  15. #15
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    Breaking into the trunk

    Unlike many cars, the e30 has a solid steel panel between the backseat and the trunk. And unfortunately, sometimes the trunk lock fails because a metal wire connector comes loose inside the trunk. If that piece slips off, you're locked out. The best way to get in is to drill out the trunk lock. The chromed exterior lock is held in place with two bolts, one on each side of the keylock mechanism. You have to drill it out on each side of the keylock, and then the entire lock piece can be removed. You'll have to replace the part, of course, once you have access to the trunk. The part number is 51 24 1 911 948, and it sells for $93 at Bavarian Autosport.

    I had to do this once, and it's not easy. That lock piece is hardened, and thanks to the curvature, it takes forever to drill it out. But it can be done with patience and a few new drill bits.

    You can prevent having to deal with this by opening your trunk (while you still can) and inspecting and lubricating all the trunk latch components. If anything is coming loose, fix it before you slam the trunk lid shut!

    Unlike many cars, the e30 has a solid steel panel between the backseat and the trunk. And unfortunately, sometimes the trunk lock fails because a metal wire connector comes loose inside the trunk. If that piece slips off, you're locked out. The best way to get in is to drill out the trunk lock. The chromed exterior lock is held in place with two bolts, one on each side of the keylock mechanism. You have to drill it out on each side of the keylock, and then the entire lock piece can be removed. You'll have to replace the part, of course, once you have access to the trunk. The part number is 51 24 1 911 948, and it sells for $93 at Bavarian Autosport.

    I had to do this once, and it's not easy. That lock piece is hardened, and thanks to the curvature, it takes forever to drill it out. But it can be done with patience and a few new drill bits.

    You can prevent having to deal with this by opening your trunk (while you still can) and inspecting and lubricating all the trunk latch components. If anything is coming loose, fix it before you slam the trunk lid shut!
    Last edited by timflowers; 03-02-2010 at 11:28 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost

  16. #16
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    sawzall

  17. #17
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    WOW, I would be so screwed my trunk is how I get in my car…lol I agree with roster sawzall and get a junkyard trunk $30

  18. #18
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    Trunk lids are at least $50 at most boneyards, and finding unscratched ones with matching paint is difficult. It's much easier to find taillights in reasonably good condition, and you don't have to fiddle around with alignment when replacing them.

  19. #19
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    FYI - I was going through this same problem.

    My son, we shall call him ham hands, broke 1 key off in the car and was using the last key for daily activities.

    He lost it in the water last weekend when he was out on a Jetski.

    So we ordered a new one from BMW using the vin and ID and $50.

    It would not open the trunk! I just did some research on here.

    We tried to get a spare key made after buying the $50 BMW one to no avail. Ace Hardware told us they do not have a blank.

    Then after reading on here a Volvo blank will work I wrote down the key number (Ilco X144) and went back to ace.

    The kid found it and it was actually stamped BMW on the key.

    Long story short, the tinny cheap slightly more slender spare key tripped the tumblers for the trunk lock.

    This is worth a try if you find yourself locked out.
    Hunter S. Thompson -“Life should not be a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside in a cloud of smoke, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming "Wow! What a Ride!”


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