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Thread: My 1995 E38 Power loss and stalls..pls help

  1. #1
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    My 1995 E38 Power loss and stalls..pls help

    From yesterday, I have this problem. I start the car and it shakes alittle bit and whenI put in Drive it goes for half a mile with no gear changing andf with high rpm about 3000 on guage. then it looses power and stops. engine shuts off. Only check engine light is on. No transmission error. Then If I start the car it starts it does not move much and een if it goes it go for 20yards and so. When I put in Park and give gas, the rpm goes only to the 3000 and not more than that and after that the engine dies.
    I tried to Remove the MAF connection(cable) to the sensor it make more worse than better. Wondeing if it is related to MAF and CPS or soem thing else...
    Previously I used to get this problem once in a whilefor about 1 minute and after I shut it off and restart it used to be normal. Now it is continuesly acting like that... Any Help is greatly appreciated.

    Thanks

  2. #2
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    Pull the MAF and try again

    Have a technical question, don't send me a PM but post it on the board so others can benefit from it!

  3. #3
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    Thanks for your Reply.
    I tried that this morning also. if I pull the MAF,it is more worst. The car does not move 10feet. If i keep the MAF connection it go about half a mile, if i maintain good rpm and less than 3000 on only one gear. If i like to change the gear (ofcoure automatic), I have to take my leg off gas pedal and accelerate again. Some times it wont move 10yards also.

  4. #4
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    try to get codes for the car, the would help a lot

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  5. #5
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    Mr Edvin,
    I did find the codes through the gas pedal pressing 5 times. It is
    1213.
    As per the Internet the code means below#
    1213 Lambda Control 2 This code is stored when the DME detects excessive deviations in the air-fuel mixture (too rich or too lean) for longer than 10 seconds. Possible causes: Fuel tank ran empty, Incorrect Fuel Pressure, Injector valve defective or coked, Engine Temperature Sensor defective, Secondary air leak, Fuel evaporation control system defective, Air Flow Meter defective and/or the combustion is being disturbed by mechanical failure (Spark plugs,, compression, intake/exhaust valves, …etc.)
    http://www.pdfee.com/bmw-diagnostic-trouble-codes.html

  6. #6
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    Sounds like you need a MAF and codes to be cleared out.
    95 840Ci, Calypso Red/Silver, 83k - 99 740i, Black/Black, 185k, Alpina Mods - 01 740i, Titanium/Silver, 40k, Sport Pkg
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  7. #7
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    My 7 would barely run and would die after a short drive. After checking for spark and compression, I ended up disconnecting the exhaust after the headers. Then the motor idled fine and all the service engine lights went off. You could try removing the O2 sensors in the exhaust pipes and see if it helps. If it does it could be clogged converters.

    Good Luck

  8. #8
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    IcemanBHE is offline ¿pǝpɹɐʇǝɹ noʎ ǝɹɐ
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    Guys...95 M60 DMEs are notorious for being "sticky" and not releasing a problem, when a part is changed or unplugged. Codes must be cleared and if possible..the car reset.
    95 840Ci, Calypso Red/Silver, 83k - 99 740i, Black/Black, 185k, Alpina Mods - 01 740i, Titanium/Silver, 40k, Sport Pkg
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  9. #9
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    Depending on the mileage on your car, I would say catalytic converters as well.
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  10. #10
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    Cats all the way. I had a 1213 code and after replacing the cats' it took care of the problem. I would also recommend swapping your o2 sensors while you are doing it.

  11. #11
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    Thanks for the very quick Reply guys.
    I did the O2 sensors last year. I remember I used to get the sounds from the resonators before. Are the Resonators different than Cats? BTW which place do you recomend for buying the Cats?

    is it because of the Cats the RPM not going more than 4000 ( it improved from 3k to 4k) even in the Parking mode.

    is there any easy test before I buy the cats, to see if it fixes the problem. Like removing the exhaust etc..

    My mileage is 157,000 on the car. The gas mileage I get about 13 local and 18highway
    Last edited by ram1; 02-19-2010 at 11:07 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost

  12. #12
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    I get 13 to 17 MPG as well in my 95.

    I would first suggest a Nap for the car before you get cats, The car keeps the codes stored and will run like crap unless cleared. I removed my positive and negative terminals off the battery and left the wires (disconnected from battery) touching each other over night.

    If there is no change from the stomp test, Remove both o2 sensors and see how the car runs as there will be less exhaust going to the cats. If it runs better it is most likely your cats.

  13. #13
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    Thanks Joes.
    I will try that tonight and see how it goes.

  14. #14
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    Good news

    You guys are awsome and Gurus.
    Finally, I disconnected the O2 sensors and did the test drive. Now the car runs lot better than before. now the RPM can go High upto 6000 ( before not going more than 3000in park mode). Though it is lowder, no loss of power.
    Thanks for your help.

    Now I talk to one Mufler guy, he said he can remove the Cats from my Car and replace with the straight pipes for $100.
    1. My Qestion is it ok to remove the cats and put the regular pipes? we are in kansas no problem about emissions.
    2. Can you guys show me in the Pics which ones are the cats on 1995 740i? Are those the ones next to the O2 sensors?
    3. Do you recommend replacing them with the Magnaflow 94004?

    Thanks

    Thanks Again.
    My Mufler guy removed the Cats and replaced with regulr pipes, the car runs great now. Thank You all for your help.
    Last edited by ram1; 02-22-2010 at 04:59 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost

  15. #15
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    No Problem.

    There is no problem with removing the cats. The post cat o2's might give off a CEL, there is a way to bypass the post cat o2's.

    Check your laws about emissions to make sure you can still get an inspection

    here is the cat set up

    http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...54&hg=18&fg=10

  16. #16
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    Here is how I unplugged my CATS. I removed the exhaust, then I made some line up marks just below the CATs and cut them off with a circular saw. I then pounded out the CATs guts and had a friend weld the cut pipes back together. I kept the actual CATs shell. This was the cheapest solution, since I did most of the labor myself and did not need to have a guy fit extra pipes.

    My exhaust also had the mufflers removed because they were plugged with CAT bits. Surprisingly it is not to loud with only the cross over pipe. I little pitchy Dawg, but run-able by my standards.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  17. #17
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    You know on second thought - If a guy will fit the pipes for a 100. Pay it. Removing the exhaust bolts at the header is a task. And working under the car isn't something I like to do without a hoist. Then you can also recycle the CATs for money. Maybe 25 to 100 bucks, Ive heard.

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Showtime22 View Post
    Here is how I unplugged my CATS. I removed the exhaust, then I made some line up marks just below the CATs and cut them off with a circular saw. I then pounded out the CATs guts and had a friend weld the cut pipes back together. I kept the actual CATs shell. This was the cheapest solution, since I did most of the labor myself and did not need to have a guy fit extra pipes.

    My exhaust also had the mufflers removed because they were plugged with CAT bits. Surprisingly it is not to loud with only the cross over pipe. I little pitchy Dawg, but run-able by my standards.
    Wow That was a lot of cat guts!

  19. #19
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    Yes, they pay good money for cats, because of the Platium in the insides. That is why junk yards don't sell them. The easiest way to test the cats is, if the rear (going to the muffler) of the cat is hotter than the front of the Cat. A laser thermometer is better than a standard one for the temp. readings.
    Last edited by njdjh2o; 02-23-2010 at 08:06 PM.

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