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Thread: Power steering fluid question

  1. #1
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    2004 545i, 1988 735i

    Power steering fluid question

    I recently bought a 1988 735i and on the way from work the steering started to growl. The first thing I think is low fluid. My questions are 1) do you check the fluid as it stands or do you have to pump the brakes a bunch of times to unload the bomb first. 2) The fluid in the reservoir was reddish in colour while the Pentosin 7.1 I got is green. Am I putting the wron fluid in or did the previous owner? Should I drain it and re-fill? Thanks in advance for the help.
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  2. #2
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    11/88 E32 750iL+98 E36M3
    what production moth is your car? Please add that to the car data, Cars: 1988 735i
    is not enough. Check here with your VIN
    http://www.bmwarchiv.de/vin/bmw-vin-decoder.html
    Does it have a hydraulic brake booster unit or vacuum operated?
    Very early 735 had also hydraulic brake boosters and that is connected with the power steering system. That needs Pentosin CHF 7.1 based on 1988 built year.

    In case the car does not have hydraulic brake booster, ATF will do.

    How to check Pentosin level
    http://www.bimmerboard.com/forums/posts/493140/

    Here you see the difference
    http://bmwe32.masscom.net/maxf_website/booster.htm
    Shogun tricks and tips for the E32 series are HERE!

  3. #3
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    Dunno the month but it does have hydraulic brake booster.
    I'll check the production date and reply later.
    Last edited by 1970gizmo; 01-24-2010 at 01:55 PM.
    Faster, faster, until the thrill of speed overcomes the fear of death.

  4. #4
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    just enter the last 7 digits of your chassis number and press Return
    http://www.bmwarchiv.de/vin/bmw-vin-decoder.html

    then you have the production month and other details

    so if it has Hydroboost H31 brake booster, you need Pentosin CHF 7.1

    In case the wrong stuff is inside, pump the brake pedal (engine off) till it gets hard, then the Pentosin container is full. Suck the ATF out of the reservoir, that is about 1/3 - 1/3 of the total liquid in the system. Fill with Pentosin. Start engine and turn the steering wheel 3-4 times to each end, that makes the bleeding and circulates the fluid, then do the same procedure again and till the fluid gets clear and greenish like Pentosin is.
    You can replace the filter also, which is at the bottom of the Pentosin reservoir.

    VW also has Pentosin CHF 7.1
    http://www.blauparts.com/vw/vw_fluid...rsteeringfluid
    Bilstein 7.1 Mineral Base Vw Power Steering Fluid

    Bilstein type CHF 7.1 (equivalent to Pentosin) is a select non-synthetic mineral oil blend of Vw power steering fluid designed for standard mileage change intervals. All properties are similar to CHF 11S with exception of synthetic mineral oil blend vs mineral oil blend and should be changed more frequently.

    •Equivalent to Vw power steering fluid part number G 002 000 (G002000).
    •Due to its excellent features it's suitable for Vw, BMW, Mercedes Benz, Porsche, Saab, Volvo System and hydraulic suspension systems
    •Equivalent to BMW power steering fluid part numbers 82.11.1.468.041 and 81.22.9.407.758, Porsche power steering fluid part number 000.043.203.33


    http://www.blauparts.com/
    Last edited by shogun; 12-17-2016 at 04:31 AM.
    Shogun tricks and tips for the E32 series are HERE!

  5. #5
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    Thanks. That was very helpful.
    I don't read German but it looks like my production date is 02/87.
    How much damage can occur with the wrong fluid? I'm guessing someone put dexron in?
    I'm still not clear if I have to pump the brakes to check the fluid level?
    Thanks again.
    Last edited by 1970gizmo; 01-24-2010 at 01:54 PM.
    Faster, faster, until the thrill of speed overcomes the fear of death.

  6. #6
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    02/1987 should be correct. But you can check again here, that is English
    http://www.bmw-z1.com/VIN/VINdecode-e.cgi
    add 02/1987 to your profile here!!!>>>>>>>>>>>
    Join Date: Aug 2009
    Location: Toronto Canada
    Cars: 1988 735i

    if it is with automatic transmission, make it


    Join Date: Aug 2009
    Location: Toronto Canada
    Cars: 02/1987 735iA

    Especially these production dates are critical in finding the correct parts, sometimes a month difference is important, for example the brake booster you have, or the front shocks are having a different diameter at the thread and the shock mounts are different as well. When you change these shocks, you have to change the shock mounts too also when changing to the newer style with bigger diameter.

    How much damage can occur with the wrong fluid? I'm guessing someone put dexron in?

    It says that the gaskets will wear with normal ATF faster, others do not care so much about it. But I would change to the correct fluid. Especially if the car has LAD (self levelling at the rear) a repair of all the gaskets is expensive. But I assume your car does not have LAD, mostly the long version iL have standard LAD, short wheel base was optional extra.

    I'm still not clear if I have to pump the brakes to check the fluid level?
    2 possibilities.

    1. you do it as per the link here with pumping
    http://www.bimmerboard.com/forums/posts/493140/

    2. or you check it without pumping with running engine or engine just shut off, but in this case without brake pedal pumping. If then the level is just below or even with the 'tea strainer' inside the Pentosin container, it is fine.
    You can even check then further to see how the level changes. The pump the brake pedal 20-25 times till the brake pedal is hard (engine must be off when you do that), then you see the fluid level rise in the Pentosin container. If it overflows, you have filled in too much.
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  7. #7
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    You have been VERY helpful. Thanks very much! I feel better.
    Last edited by 1970gizmo; 01-24-2010 at 07:45 PM.
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  8. #8
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    E30, E32
    Sorry to drop in your thread 1970gizmo,

    But I'm wondering if possibly my system has the wrong fluid. When I got the car is had ATF in the system. It's a 5/87 735i. Hydarulic boster, no LAD.

    I've been using ATF during all my flushes etc. DEX III, but I'm looking to change to DEX II for a trial as I've had a groan with the DEX III.

    *EDIT* Should have clarified I'm using a Toyota PS pump, and have fitted a rebuilt second pump in order to elliminate the pump from the equation. Noise still persists. I havn't noticed any concerns re using the Trans Fluid in the system aside from the groan.
    Last edited by BMWTurbo; 01-24-2010 at 10:32 PM.
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    Project :- E30 2jzgte conversion
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  9. #9
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    11/88 E32 750iL+98 E36M3
    I assume it is not the fluid, Dexron III is not that bad. But originally Pentosin should be used.
    Often the groaning comes from something else. Maybe the seals and gaskets inside the power steering pump must be replaced as they are old, hard, damaged.
    I have done that and bought kits from USA. Still have some of these kits here. If you need one, let me know, maybe shipping to Australia is cheaper from Japan. But it must be a ZF pump as usually used in the 735 and 750, does not fit in the 740, that pump is usually from LuK and there is no kit available. http://www.pskits.com/
    when we made my one, we made a lot of pics, here the link http://www.bimmerboard.com/forums/posts/526913


    power steering troubleshooting guide

    Because of exposure to underhood heat, high fluid temperatures, ozone, fleaxing, abrasion, grease, oil and road salt, power steering hoses should be replaced at least every 5 years.

    When checking power steering hoses, watch for symptoms indicating the hose has deteriorated and should be replaced:

    -hose is brittle or hard
    With age the hose loses its ability to expand anc contract properly, and cracks appear. Exposure to excess heat (which "overcures" the rubber compounds) can cause this.

    -hose is soft and spongy
    A good sign that the hose has started to deteriorate inside. Oil and grease-soaked hoses are soft when squeezed, and should be replaced.

    -exterior is worn
    Caused by abeasion and contact with metal parts, thiscan eventually wear a hole in the hose, causing it to burst under pressure.
    Remember hat not all power steering hose failures can be spotted by exterior signs. Hose can deteriorate from inside, causing small particles of the tube to flake off and be carried away in the fluid. These small particles can expensive damage to the pump, pump cylinder and other units.
    Composite deteriorations are shown in the link on page 14.

    Troubleshooting Guide:


    Heavy Steering Effort
    1. low on power steering fluid
    2. loose rack piston
    3. restricted fluid passages in gear assembly
    4. bent or damaged rack assembly
    5. internal fluid leakage in valve assy
    6. external fluid leakge at pump
    7. incorrect drive belt tension
    8. external fluid leakage at hoses
    9. incorrect engine idle speed
    10. weak pump flow pressure


    Hissing noise when parking
    1, internal leakage in steering gear
    2. steering wheel at end of travel (normal)
    3. when turning steering wheel at standstill (normal)


    Growl in steering pump
    1. excessive pressure in hoses
    2. worn cam ring in pump
    3. scored thrust plates or rotor in pump
    4. scored pressure plates


    Swish noise in pump
    defective flow control valve


    Whine in pump
    1. air in power steering fluid
    2. low power steering fluid level
    3. pressure hose or line contacting other parts
    4. mis-aligned hose and line brackets
    5. missing or damaged pump cover O-ring


    Rattle in steering
    1. pressure hose contacting another part
    2. loose pitman shaft
    3. lost pitman arm
    4. loose tie rod ends
    5. loose rack and pinion mounts
    6. loose steering gear housing bolts
    7. loose steering gear adjustments

    Car wanders to one side
    1. incorrect front wheel allignment
    2. unbalanced steering gear valve
    3. loose tie rod ends


    Steering wheel surges or jerks
    1. low power steering fluid level
    2. loose pump drive belt
    3. weak pump pressure
    4. stickingflow control valve


    Excessive play in steering wheel
    1. air in hydraulic system
    2. incorrect steering gear adjustment
    3. loose steering gear coupling
    4. loose steering shaft universal joint
    5. faulty rotary valve


    Increased steering effort
    1. slipping pump drive belt
    2. internal pump leakage
    3. low power steering fluid level
    4. too low engine idle speed
    5. air in hydraulic system
    6. weak pump output
    7. malfunctioning steering gear


    Poor return of steering wheel
    1. maladjusted steering wheel
    2. dry ball joints or linkage joints
    3. binding ball joints or linkage joints
    4. incorrect front wheel alignment
    5. maladjusted hweel bearings
    6. kinked return hoses
    7. internal pump leakage
    8. contaminated power steering fluid
    9. mis-aligned steering gear to steering column
    10. tight steering shaft bearings or bushings
    11. bent or damaged rack
    12. sticking or plugged spool valve


    This of course does not all fit for our system, but most of it. >30 pages of education from http://www.gates.com/ Gates Auto Education

    http://www.gates.com/common/download...n/428-7172.pdf



    Troubleshooting Steering & Suspension Problems
    From about.com;
    The steering and suspension systems of the car are fairly robust and generally not too much goes wrong with them. With the advent of rack and pinion steering and the use of MacPherson strut suspensions, a lot of moving parts have been eliminated. Things still can go wrong and cause a vehicle to become hard to control. When something is wrong the very least that will happen is your tires will wear out very quickly and at most, lead to an accident.

    As with any car problem, the causes can range from a mere inconvenience to major repair. Here are some things to look for when you have a car that doesn't handle or respond properly.

    You should note that these are the most likely causes of a particular problem, but not necessarily the cause of the problem you are experiencing. Some of the possible causes listed may not even apply to your vehicle.

    Car seems to bounce too much :
    When you are driving down the road and hit a bump the vehicle keeps bouncing for a while. This will gradually get worse as time goes by.

    Possible causes:

    The shock absorbers are worn or leaking: Replace shock absorbers.

    The shock mounts for the shock absorbers are broken or bent: Repair or replace mounts as required.

    ~~~~~~~~~~

    Steering wheel is hard to turn :
    You find that it is getting more difficult to turn the steering wheel. It feels like something is binding or dragging. This may or may not happen suddenly or is getting worse over time.

    Possible causes:

    Low tire pressure: Check and adjust tire pressures.

    The wheels are out of alignment: Have the wheels aligned.

    The power steering box or rack or power steering pump is bad: Repair or replace steering gear or pump as required.

    The fluid level in the power steering reservoir is low: Fill fluid to proper level.

    The power steering drive belt is damaged or broken: Replace power steering drive belt.

    The steering gear needs to be lubricated or repaired: Lubricate or replace steering gear parts as required.

    ~~~~~~~~~~

    Hard steering:
    You notice it takes much more strength to turn the steering wheel. This is especially noticed when you are trying to park. The problem seems to be getting worse.

    Possible causes:

    Low tire pressure: Check and adjust tire pressures.

    The steering gear needs to be lubricated: Lubricate steering gear parts as required.

    The wheels are out of alignment: Have the wheels aligned.

    A part of the steering linkage is damaged and doesn't not move freely: Replace steering gear parts as required.

    Your steering box needs to be adjusted: Adjust steering box as required.

    You have a problem with the power steering pump: Repair or replace power steering pump as required.

    ~~~~~~~~~~

    Loose steering:
    You notice that the steering wheel is very easy to move and actually feels quite sloppy. It creates an uneasy feeling on the highway because it seems you have no control of your car. The problem seems to be getting worse.

    Possible causes:

    Steering linkage is worn and parts need to be replaced: Replace affected parts.

    Parts of the steering linkage are loose and need to be tightened: Tighten or replace loose parts as required.

    Your steering box needs to be adjusted: Adjust steering box as required.

    ~~~~~~~~~~

    Power steering doesn't seem to be working:
    It takes a lot of effort to turn the steering wheel. In fact, at low speeds you can hardly turn it. The problem is less obvious at high speeds simply because you need to move the steering wheel less at those speeds. The problem may have occurred suddenly.

    Possible causes:

    No fluid in the power steering reservoir: Fill fluid to proper level.

    You have a bad power steering pump: Repair or replace power steering pump.

    The power steering drive belt is broken: Replace power steering drive belt.

    The fluid in the system is contaminated: Flush power steering out power steering fluid and replace with fresh clean fluid.

    You have a steering linkage problem: Repair or replace linkage parts as required.
    There is a leak in the power steering lines: Replace power steering lines as required.

    Low tire pressure: Check and adjust tire pressures.

    Car pulls to one side while moving:
    As you drive the car tends to pull to one side or the other. You need to constantly hold the wheel firmly to keep the car going straight. This will have happened over time. When the problem is slight, it often is dismissed and only severe pulling is noticed.

    Possible causes:

    Tire pressures are not equal: Check and adjust tire pressures.

    The wheels are out of alignment: Have the wheels aligned.

    One brake is dragging or isn't releasing: Check brakes and repair as required.

    Parts of the steering linkage are loose and need to be tightened: Tighten or replace loose parts as required.

    The car's tires are not worn evenly: Replace tires as required.

    ~~~~~~~~~~

    The car seems to wander down the road:
    As you are driving, you notice that you must constantly correct the direction of the car by turning the steering wheel. The problem seems to increase, the faster you travel. This problem may occur gradually and get worse over time or it may appear suddenly.

    Possible causes:

    The car is overloaded, or the weight is unevenly distributed: Lighten the load or equalize weight distribution.

    The wheels are out of alignment: Have the wheels aligned.

    The car's springs are weak: Replace springs.

    Parts of the steering linkage are loose and need to be tightened: Tighten or replace loose parts as required.

    The front wheel bearings are out of adjustment or are severely worn: Adjust wheel bearings or replace as required.

    Steering wheel jerks:
    When you are driving slowly or at an idle the steering wheel jumps or jerks. You don't see any other problems as far as steering and handling go. As time goes by it seems to be getting worse.

    Possible causes:

    The power steering drive belt is damaged or loose: Tighten or replace power steering drive belt as required.

    The fluid level in the power steering reservoir is low: Fill fluid to proper level.

    The engine is idling too low: Adjust idle speed.

    You have a problem with the power steering pump: Repair or replace power steering pump as required.

    The steering linkage is rubbing against something: Inspect steering gear and repair the interference.

    ~~~~~~~~~~

    Steering wheel vibrates:
    At about 45 to 60 miles per hour the steering wheel begins to vibrate. You also notice that the car is also vibrating or twitching. This can be very dangerous. If you notice the problem only occurs when you step on the brakes, it will make diagnosis simpler.

    Possible causes:

    Warped or damaged brake rotors and/or drums: Resurface or replace brake rotors and/or drums as required.

    Loose wheel lug nuts: Tighten wheel lug nuts.

    Out-of-balance wheel and tire assemblies: Balance wheels.

    Parts of the steering linkage are loose and need to be tightened: Tighten or replace loose parts as required.

    Bent or damaged wheels: Replace bent or damaged wheels.

    Severely worn or damaged tires: Replace tires.

    Wheel shimmy:
    You notice a side-to-side wobble in the steering wheel when traveling at steady speeds. The vibration gets worse when you are on an uneven road surface or after going over a pot hole.

    Possible causes:

    Tire pressures are not equal: Check and adjust tire pressures.

    Out-of-balance wheel and tire assemblies: Balance wheels.

    Worn or damaged tires: Replace tires.

    Parts of the steering linkage are loose and need to be tightened: Tighten or replace loose parts as required.

    You have worn suspension parts: Replace suspension parts as required.

    ~~~~~~~~~~

    Noises while turning a corner:
    You notice a knocking, clunking, and/or squeaking noise while you turn a corner. Everything else seems to be fine except for the noise. The problem seems to be getting worse over time.

    Possible causes:

    Something is rubbing against or hitting the steering column: Locate the interference and repair.

    The steering gear needs to be lubricated or repaired: Lubricate or replace steering gear parts as required.

    Parts of the steering linkage are loose and need to be tightened: Tighten or replace loose parts as required.

    Your tires are hitting or rubbing against something: Locate the interference and repair.

    You have worn suspension parts: Replace suspension parts as required.

    Noises from the power steering unit:
    You notice a whining or moaning from the steering when you turn the steering wheel all of the way in one direction. Everything else seems to be fine except for the noise. The problem seems to be getting worse over time.

    Possible causes:

    The power steering drive belt is damaged or loose: Tighten or replace power steering drive belt as required.

    The fluid in the system has air in it: Bleed power steering system.

    The fluid level in the power steering reservoir is low: Fill fluid to proper level.

    The mount for the power steering pump is loose or damaged: Repair or replace power steering pump mounts as required.

    © By Vince Ciulla, March 26, 2001. (www.autorepair.about.com) licensed to About.com, Inc. Used by permission of About.com, Inc., which can be found on the web at www.about.com. all rights reserved.


    If leaking:
    - Determine the location of the leak.
    - Were all hoses checked for leakage there.
    (to determine that there it is not a hose leaking on to the part)
    For *domestic cars only, was tracing powder used to determine? Now verify the location of leak.

    - If leaking at boots of rack:
    -Are there are any cuts or tears on the boot. (if yes, could be from road hazard or mis alignment—ask if the boots are twisted.)
    -Is the boot full of fluid. (if yes, have fluid left in boot)
    -If fluid is coming out of the boots, where? (there may actually just be something leaking onto the boots)
    -if the rack is leaking at the seals, the seals are under the boot, How do you know (if fluid is coming out of the boots-from the seals, then the boots should be full of fluid)

    If binding:
    - When it is binding?
    -When turning (which side?).
    -If binding to one side, then it usually is a rack/gear problem
    -If binding on both sides, it is usually something else. (Is pump pressure okay, no restrictions/air in lines, etc.)
    -Has it been binding from the start (right after installation)--find out when it started.
    -Is it binding when engine is cold and/or warmed up?
    -If bmw/toyota w/ servotronics, ask if servotronic unit (usually black box on gear/rack) has been checked. A bad servotronic unit can affect the gear/rack.

    If no assist:
    - Determine if no assist to one side or both. (usually a rack/gear problem if no assist on one side, but if no assist to both directions, then it is usually not a rack/gear problem). See below.
    - Make sure pump is not actually the problem.
    -Has the pump pressure been checked. What are the readings?
    - Make sure there is no restriction in any of the lines which may be affecting the gear.
    - Has anything else has been changed/replaced in the system recently? pump, hoses, etc
    - What specifically makes you believe the gear has failed internally (if everything else is okay).

    If noisy:
    -Describe the noise it is making (popping, clicking, grinding, whining, etc.)
    -rack:
    -if making a clunking noise when turning, have tech check the mounting. Make sure the bushings/linkage is okay. Bushings should not be worn. With the car on a rack, if you turn the wheel, the rack should not shift/move from side to side. (if it does, the mounting is usually loose.)
    -If making a whining noise (on a pump), make sure the pressure has been checked, may be restriction in lines, etc.-where is the noise coming from?
    -when is it making the noise?
    -if popping/clicking (on a axle), it usually is an axle problem, but make sure boots aren’t cut/torn/twisted etc.

    If wrong part:
    -Verify part # on box (correct as ordered?)
    -Make sure application of vehicle is correct (to verify the correct part was sent originally).
    -Determine what is different (how do know it is wrong).
    -Get specs of wrong part and core.
    -What are the visual differences.
    -Get as specific as possible!

    from this site: http://www.buy-steering.com/
    Last edited by shogun; 02-09-2014 at 10:11 PM.
    Shogun tricks and tips for the E32 series are HERE!

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Location
    Toronto and London, ON
    Posts
    40
    My Cars
    99 E36 M3
    My build date is 10.09.1987

    How do i check if I have a vaccum or a hydro brake booster?

  11. #11
    Join Date
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    11/88 E32 750iL+98 E36M3
    See here on the old site of Max Fretter the differences between both systems

    ◦ Replacing the H31 hydraulic brake booster with a vacuum booster

    http://bmwe32.masscom.net/maxf_websi...ellow.com.html
    Shogun tricks and tips for the E32 series are HERE!

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Sep 2013
    Location
    Long Beach, MS
    Posts
    32
    My Cars
    1988 BMW 735i
    Visal,

    First off welcome to Bimmerforums.com. I am pretty new to BMW's myself. My 735i is the first car I have had with a hydraulic booster type brake system. Generally the difference between the 2 types is really obvious. If you look between the master cylinder and the firewall and there is a big round pancake looking item then you have a vacuum boost brake system. On the other hand if it is a small cylinder about the same size as the master cylinder with 2 rubber lines going into it on the top about 2 or 3 inches apart then it is a hydraulic boost brake system.

    If you have the hydraulic system the next thing you need to know before servicing the system is whether or not you have the auto-leveling system on the rear end. I do not have it on mine so I have no idea how to tell you what to look for to be able to identify it. The reason that this is important is if you have the auto-leveling system then you MUST use the pentosin power steering fluid (it is a green fluid). Since my car doesn't have auto-leveling I can use Dexron III ATF (pink fluid).

    If you have the hydraulic boost brake system you can not check the power steering fluid like you are probably used to. I had a devil of a time finding good information on how to service my system. While I had the top off the reservoir I pumped the brakes and two odd things happened. One the fluid level rose to the point it overflowed the reservoir (this is normal if it is not checked correctly, it will end up overfilled). The other is that air bubbles filled my reservoir (the bomb was full of air and needed to be bled) I found bits and pieces in various places, but nothing comprehensive. Thankfully I found just enough information to allow my experience in industrial hydraulics to figure the rest out. So if you read this http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...on-and-Service it should be an immense help. I wrote it to try and get all the important information in one place and in an easy to follow format. Everything from finding out if the brake bomb (accumulator) is working to if your fluid level is correct. I hope it helps.

    Good luck, and keep us posted on how it is going.

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Location
    Toronto and London, ON
    Posts
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    My Cars
    99 E36 M3
    Hello jmruth72,

    Thank you for the information.

    My E32 does not have Self leveling so I used ATF in my power steering system...So far I have no issues with the braking system nor the power steering but I will use the information to look around, I looked around and I did not see a conventional brake booster behind the master cylinder...so I'm guessing my car does have a Hydraulic brake boost system.
    Last edited by shogun; 02-11-2014 at 05:37 PM.

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Sep 2013
    Location
    Long Beach, MS
    Posts
    32
    My Cars
    1988 BMW 735i
    Visal,

    I forgot to mention one very important thing in my post. You need to know what fluid was in there. They do not mix well. The term does not play well with others comes to mind with the pentosin. If you had green fluid in your power steering system that is what you need to put in it, or drain, clean or replace ALL the filters (there is a screen filter on the steering gear box under the servotronic solenoid, there is also a filter under the screen at the bottom of the power steering reservoir.), flush and refill with Dexron. If you follow this link http://parts.bmwofsouthatlanta.com/s...rimLevel=11906 you can find the filter part number and how it is supposed to go in. When I got my car it was not installed correctly and was not filtering anything. As for the fluid from what I understand if you mix Pentosin with Dexron it will turn gummy in all the wrong places. If you did not see the "conventional brake booster" then yes I would have to say you are correct about having a hydraulic boost system. At your earliest possible convenience I would review the service information I posted and go work on the car. It won't take long, when you are done you know your fluid level is correct, your accumulator is bled and everything relating to the fluid is correct. I did my best to cover all the possible scenarios you might run into. Let me know what you think.

    Enjoy.

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
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    Toronto and London, ON
    Posts
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    My Cars
    99 E36 M3
    Thanks again!

    I will keep that in mind, hoping to fix this car little by little as the weather gets warmer. It's been great so far.

    I believe it was regular ATF in there, it was red...your write up is really helpful. I'm going to do a full bleed, change filters etc in spring

    Regards
    Visal

  16. #16
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    Posts
    1,583
    My Cars
    e23, e32, e34, e39
    My 1/88 735i with hydro boost used ATF, not Pentosin.
    Is the label still readable on the cap? If not, is it orange?

  17. #17
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    Japan
    Posts
    54,654
    My Cars
    11/88 E32 750iL+98 E36M3
    Maybe, but not sure, the older 735 with H31 brake booster used ATF without LAD, and with LAD they used Pentosin CHF7.1?
    Shogun tricks and tips for the E32 series are HERE!

  18. #18
    Join Date
    Jan 2019
    Location
    Buhl Idaho
    Posts
    1
    My Cars
    735i & 740il
    I have a 735i produced in the end months of 1987 making it “1988” then I have a 740il with same engine almost exact replicas but the 740il was produced in the end of 1988 making it 1989. Being one of the last model e32 with m30 I know there are a few differences mechanically and computer wise. The 740 dose have leveling suspension and takes pentosin in the power steering also not all relays are interchangeable. My 735 has bad steering box and power steering pump as well as a cracked engine support cross member only 180k miles on transmission and engine, the 740 has a shredded transmission with 250k miles on engine but body is immaculate other than small electrical issue caused by cheep aftermarket led headlights. My question is, will the 740il electronics and ecu take the swap as well as I noticed when applying the break the atf power steering box squeal gets worse. Will the fact of taking engine and transmission from atf power steering bmw to the pento power steering box bmw create a problem? I’m deleting the self leveling suspension because it is bad and I have brand new suspension in my 735. Wondering what other people who have actually done work in bmw have to say, people where I’m from are strictly American engineering but my family is German and I have to stay true to my blood but finding people bmw mechanically inclined is a struggle. I know the swap should just be plug and play for most part being as same engine and car essentially but this is the biggest auto work I have done to the two cars.

  19. #19
    Join Date
    Mar 2018
    Location
    Asia
    Posts
    94
    My Cars
    1992 E32 M60 V8 RHD
    mine is 07/92 with hydro but no LAD, uses regular atf. on the cap mentioned atf, i believe for those with LAD, there will be a sticker on the cap mentioned chf 7.1 or even chf11s
    1990 730i M30B30 RHD - Sold
    1993 730i M60B30 RHD

    Others:-
    2012 Toyota Fortuner 4WD 3.0
    2012 Kia Optima 2.4L
    1990 Suzuki cavalcade (motorbike for hobby)

  20. #20
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    Japan
    Posts
    54,654
    My Cars
    11/88 E32 750iL+98 E36M3
    I assume you have a 1988/89 735iL with M30 and not 740iL as the 740 with the M60 V8 engine came into the market much later. Or tell us the VIN of the cars. To move drive parts from a 735 into a 740 or vice versa is not that easy, almost nothing fits. engine, transmission, driveshaft, alternator, starter, DME is different etc.
    In case the LAD is removed, you can use ATF in my opinion for the power steering, but if the brake booster system is a H31 hydraulic system, use Pentosin as originally required for the older 735 M30 with H31 brake booster unit and brake bomb.
    Shogun tricks and tips for the E32 series are HERE!

  21. #21
    Join Date
    Mar 2018
    Location
    Asia
    Posts
    94
    My Cars
    1992 E32 M60 V8 RHD
    its 730i with M60 V8,

    check DE25081
    1990 730i M30B30 RHD - Sold
    1993 730i M60B30 RHD

    Others:-
    2012 Toyota Fortuner 4WD 3.0
    2012 Kia Optima 2.4L
    1990 Suzuki cavalcade (motorbike for hobby)

  22. #22
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    Japan
    Posts
    54,654
    My Cars
    11/88 E32 750iL+98 E36M3
    not your car, I meant Stonewall735i
    Shogun tricks and tips for the E32 series are HERE!

  23. #23
    Join Date
    Mar 2018
    Location
    Asia
    Posts
    94
    My Cars
    1992 E32 M60 V8 RHD
    ahh, i thought it was me, sorry.
    1990 730i M30B30 RHD - Sold
    1993 730i M60B30 RHD

    Others:-
    2012 Toyota Fortuner 4WD 3.0
    2012 Kia Optima 2.4L
    1990 Suzuki cavalcade (motorbike for hobby)

  24. #24
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Location
    Canada
    Posts
    1,512
    My Cars
    1990/02 BMW 735iA M30B35
    My car has no sensor on reservoir buy dashboard message pop up power steer fluid ?

  25. #25
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    Japan
    Posts
    54,654
    My Cars
    11/88 E32 750iL+98 E36M3
    Did you already repair the CCM because of the other problem? You have problems with your CCM , see pages 8 and 9 http://www.e34-welt.de/tips_tricks/R...0e34%20e32.pdf
    Shogun tricks and tips for the E32 series are HERE!

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