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Thread: How to Remove your Softtop on a Z4

  1. #1
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    Thumbs up How to Remove your Softtop on a Z4

    The Electro/Hydraulic Motor for the Soft Top finally went out on my 2003 Zed. This repair has been accomplished so I will detail how I did it.
    The primary cause for the motor to go bad is water intrusion into the motor housing.

    If you are decently handy with tools you can do this yourself, saving a TON of money from the dealer.

    I broke this How-To into two parts. One is removing your top and two will be replacing your soft top motor.

    Tools:
    Set of Torx bits. If you like working on your BMW, you better get a good set of these. The Germans love Torx....
    Screw drivers (Flathead and Phillips)
    Metric Sockets.
    Razor Blades or equivalent.
    Flashlights or Drop lights


    Parts Needed:

    Some Tie-Wraps or tape.
    Blue Painters Tape.

    Extras:
    A tube of Silicon Grease. Non-curing... This is use for lubrication of the weather seal upon re-installation. Not to glue it in place......

    Now to the meat of the matter.

    I really recommend you take pictures of the wiring harness's routing... and the refer back to your pictures when you put the top back in the car... You REALLY don't want to cut a cable when you test out the top the first time. DON'T RELY ON YOUR MEMORY.....


    It is better to do this in a garage or someplace that the inside of the car is protected. Just a thought....



    1. Open your soft top part way.
    If you cannot use the normal method (most likely since you are doing this procedure), go to the trunk (boot), pull and SET the RED soft top release handle. This release activates a hydraulic by-pass valve and permits the hydraulic fluid to flow without the motor running, allowing you to move the top by hand.
    Press and hold the top down button. This will unlock the top permitting you to move the top by hand. Either use two persons to move the top or move the top from the center.

    You WILL have to move the top by hand to several positions during removal.

    2. Now position your seats and the seat backs as far forward as you can.

    You do not need to do these next two steps, but it is highly recommended.
    2a. Disconnect your battery.......
    2b. Take your roll of blue painters tape and tape off the car around the top. I did not do this until later as you will see in the pictures....

    Steps three through 12 can be completed in any order.

    3. Now on each side, remove the rubber weather stripping from the top mechanism.



    4. Then pull the door seal weather stripping from around the door. It does not have to come completely out. Just part way....


    5. Now you have to remove the 'Soft top Compartment Floor' from the trunk. I did not take many pictures of this, because I have had this out on many occasions.. Sorry...
    Disengage the soft top flap that is attached to the floor. Then pinch and release the clips that are on each end of the floor. Mine only had two on each side. I think there are supposed to be three. They will pop up and lay on the side. Then notice the hinge bars. That is just snap fit into the hinges on the floor. Unfasten those and then remove the floor.



    Picture with the floor removed. You can now see the rear glass. The top is in stowed (down) position in this picture. That flap hanging down is the flap you removed from the floor..


    As as side note, after the floor is out of the car and you take off both folding top floor mountings, then you can then see the rear shock mounts. I removed mine just to see what was up.


    6. Now remove the weather stripping that attaches the top to the car. Only remove it from around the car body, NOT from the top itself. Don't try to remove it from the top or you will be buying a new top....
    Part way removed....



    Once that is done, then you get to remove some more interference..
    The TIS has you remove the rear center console and trim from behind the roll bars. Unless you have gorilla large hands, this is not necessary.

    NOTE for the next step: If you do not have sub woofers there, you are on your own. Figure it out. It can't be hard to remove the storage box.

    7. Pop off your sub woofer grills, air vent and the small round access cover above the air vent.
    Notice in the picture, that there is a small round cover behind the air vent. Take that off also.
    The white box behind the air vent is your soft top controller module.
    Nice time to clean your speaker housings......

    8. Now remove the torx screws that hold the back trim in place. They are marked in RED. NOT the speaker housing screws.
    You still cannot remove the trim piece but it will give you some wiggle room now to get your hands behind it to remove the electrical connections.




    Now you can see the wiring harness. Both sides.


    The drivers side has two cables. One cable is bifurcated (two connectors) for a total of three connectors. The passengers side has just one cable and connector.

    9. Follow the cables that lead FROM the soft top and disconnect those connectors. Again, three on the drivers side, one on the passengers side.

    The soft top connectors are mounted vertically to the chassis with plastic grommets. This is where I don't like how BMW did this. The connectors leading from the soft top are on the bottom. You must reach down and disconnect the connectors, the top connectors are part of the chassis wire harness. It's just backward..
    Then you can attempt to pull the plastic grommets out of their holes or just break them. Up to you.

    The connectors are keyed so they only fit with their proper mates. You can't screw this up when you reconnect.... :roll:

    The wiring harness's from the soft top running along the door frame are also mounted to the chassis. I recommend that you cut the fastening tape.
    Once the connectors are disconnected, route them out of the car and let the wiring harness hang. Remember, do BOTH sides.... and watch the paint.......

    Now it is time to put your body in some positions that it was never designed to be in.
    Get your flashlight/drop light and a 10mm socket. I use a head mounted flashlight. Leaves the hands free.
    My wife says it make me look like a geek, but it WORKS....

    Climb into the trunk on your back with your head on the rear bulkhead. As you look around you will see a silver band (BMW calls it a 'hoop') that runs from the front of the top, just aft of the door sil, around the back and to the other side. A big 'U'.
    The soft top and weather stripping (you removed from the chassis previously) are attached to this 'hoop'.

    10. There are seven bolts you must remove. They are located on the around the rear of the car along the hoop. These bolts do not extend up to the ends of the hoop. Make sure you get them all..... and make sure you do not remove the much smaller torx bolts that run the entire length of the hoop. These are fasteners that hold the two parts of the hoop together. The soft top fabric and weatherstripping are sandwiched between these two metal hoops, making them one hoop. The black "cables" running along the hoop are the hydraulic lines going to the other side.


    11. Now take your torx bits and go back inside of your car. Behind the vents grills you removed, was a round plastic cover, that I also had you remove. These are the lower mounting bolts. Now using a torx bit, loosen these lower mounting bolts on both sides. These two bolts do not have to be removed. It won't hurt, but is is not necessary, once you get the top out of the car and see the mounting hardware.
    Here are a picture of the bolts. On my car, the white topped ones were the top bolts.


    12. Now completely remove the two upper torx bolts. The complete soft top assembly is now free and almost ready to be removed.

    This next step took me almost two hours to figure out. Now, it should only take you five minutes...
    The forward portions of the 'hoop' are not bolted but use a clip in mount to hold it in place.



    13. Move the top to approx. the middle position. Now pull up on the hoop ends up and then inward (toward car center line) and allow the end to come completely up and out of the car. If the top is in the stowed (open) position, there is not enough room to accomplish this. The TIS has you use a special tool (a flat pry bar) to assist in moving the inward. Not needed. If you look at them from the trunk, you can see if the hoop up and clear of the clips. I was initially using a flat pry bar and the wood was inserted to keep from crushing the weatherstrip guides....I took the pictures after the top was out for a clearer shot of them...

    14. Now using another person, lift the top out of the car. For me, I had to keep the top in mid-position or it would fold down onto the hoop, pushing it back into the car. Once the top is out of the car and on the ground you can manually close it up.



    Car without the top.


    I will do another How-To on replacing the Soft Top Motor...

    Installation is just the reverse...but here is how I reworked the wiring harness's.

    I used the existing tie-downs, but used small tie-wraps to tie them in place. These pictures just happen to be the passengers side.




    Remember those large rubber trim pieces you removed at the start. Well, to get them to go in properly you have to replace the double-sided tape that is on them. Notice the white rectangles. Scrape them off and replace with your own double-sided tape.


    That's it. It's really is not hard. Just time consuming...go slow and be careful.... :thumbsup: Then clean the inside of the car like I did, and the top. It gets dirty in this procedure.
    You all never seem to have enough time to do the job properly the first time, but you always seem to find the time to do it a second time......... ME

  2. #2
    Join Date
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    Shipkiller -

    This is a fantastic example of how to make an extremely useful "How To..."

    Thanks for your hard work!

    Wid


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  3. #3
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
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    Naples, Fl
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    2004 BMW Z4
    Thanks for the tutorial on removing the soft top Shipkiller-sure made the job easier!! I just purchased this Z4 and the seller had been operating the top manually because of a hyd. leak (he thought it was a line). It appears it is the r/h side actuator that's leaking-any tips on removing the actuator and pressure checking? Also, I haven't been able to find any pointers on servicing the hyd. system-how much oil, where do you add and any bleed procedures necessary for the system? (the top is out of the car)

  4. #4
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    73Vettehead,

    I have never seen any DIY on replacing the actuators. That does not mean one does not exist, I have just not seen one.
    I think if you tackle this one you will be in virgin territory like I was. The RealOEM link is: http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...13&hg=54&fg=10
    The right side actuator is: 54347193450 and Tischer sells it for $440.00

    You could remove the actuator and take it to a hydraulic shop to see what they say if you don't want to just replace it outright.

    BMW does sell additional oil: 54340394395

    A new motor/pump comes pre-filled and does not need to be specifically bled. The pump is self bleeding. The TIS talks about adding oil through the fill screw on the pump reservoir.
    I have seen a post somewhere where the poster needed to add hydraulic oil and use a cheaper substitute, but I don't remember where. One of the Z4 forums.
    You can see the fill screw in the reservoir(s) here in this picture:


    If your pressure lines are good, and you just need to replace the actuator, I would try this.

    Replace/fix the actuator.
    Fill the pump to the max and then cycle the top two or three times to fill the system back to operating levels.
    Then check the level of the pump. You may have to to this two or three times and add fluid each time. Once the system is full, the level in the pump should be around 3/4, I think.
    Also, before you put the top back into the car for the last time, make sure you seal the motor housing (Sound Insulation) so water cannot possibly get into to kill the motor. Why do this again????

    Since you already have the top out of the car, you have the skills to fix this yourself.... BMW will charge you, maybe $3000 or more for this....
    Replacing the actuator should not be that hard, but I did not look at doing this when I had the top out...

    I think these types of projects are a lot of fun, plus you learn a lot.
    You all never seem to have enough time to do the job properly the first time, but you always seem to find the time to do it a second time......... ME

  5. #5
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    bump
    You all never seem to have enough time to do the job properly the first time, but you always seem to find the time to do it a second time......... ME

  6. #6
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    Aug 2005
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    Abilene, TX
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    2003 BMW Z4 3.0i
    Well I did the job tonight. Got it all back together and it's not working right. The motor runs but it's not moving the top...basically like it was doing before when I said I thought it might be low on fluid. There seemed to be hydro fluid in the puddle of water and the reservoir was very low. I cleaned up the hydro lines and replaced the washers and housing. When I went to put the top up it made a loud sound of fluid moving. Thought maybe it needed to bleed out the air, so I ran it through the up/down sequence a few times, but it never actually moved itself. I had to move it up and down by hand while the motor ran, just like before. Thoughts?

  7. #7
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    I am going to ‘assume’ that the ‘puddle of water’ that contains what you ‘think’ is hydraulic fluid, is underneath the car in the areas where the softtop drains are located. Correct?

    If this is correct, coupled with your observation that the ‘reservoir was low’, leads me to think that you have a hydraulic cylinder issue, or in other words, your power hositing cylinders. One or both will need to be replaced, if in fact they have developed a leak.

    There are several threads on this topic on the various Z4 forums…
    You all never seem to have enough time to do the job properly the first time, but you always seem to find the time to do it a second time......... ME

  8. #8
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    Sorry, I meant the puddle, inside the car where the motor rests, from the drain being clogged. The water that did drain onto the floor looked like water only. The fluid all over the soaked motor felt slippery, like it was more than just water. I could be wrong. I'll have to look up the hydraulic cylinder issue. Thanks.

  9. #9
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    '07 Z4
    Is there a way to get a copy of these instructions with the pictures? My e-mail is (lburleson@zapp.com). Our '07 Z top has been sluggish for some time and yesterday I had to use the trunk release to close it manually --- suspicious that the motor may have died!

  10. #10
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    I also need a copy of this instruction and the motor replacement instruction. This site doesnt have the pictures and the other site thats referred to doesnt have any content.

    Thanks

  11. #11
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    Try googling.... http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=766650

    pdf files are in the thread...

  12. #12
    Join Date
    May 2014
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    I read that to take the top off shipkiller said that the top should be put down in order to take the top off and with the red handle not releasing any pressure I can only open my roof a 1/4 of the way. How am I gonna be able to take the top off to access the motor if I can't put the top down?

  13. #13
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    Hey there, awesome of you to post the directions on top removal and motor replacement...but the pics are gone? Any chance I can find your step by step directions complete with pictures?

    My Z4 was parked for 6 months and now has a new battery, but the top doesn't drop, it unlatches but does not roll down. The soft top motor sparks but does not turn on. I'm getting $2500 quotes for a fix. Please help.

  14. #14
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    If anyone needs the PDF's for the softtop removal then all you have to do is PM me with your email address.

    I have responded to EVERY PM but I will not respond to any request posted here. If I am out of the country then it may be a week or so before I can email them to you.
    Also, if you would take the time to do a SEARCH you would find the PDF's posted by others who took the time ask for the information. That being said, I will say again, if you want the PDF to do the repair, PM me and I will email them to you.
    You all never seem to have enough time to do the job properly the first time, but you always seem to find the time to do it a second time......... ME

  15. #15
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    Hi just signed up... I am deciding on replacing the motor myself and am 99.9% positive it is the motor.
    Mine seems to be opposite must other. The top had problems going down I would have to "help" it. Which i knew would eventually fail!
    Going back up tho never a problem.
    I tried to manually lower the top using the red handle and pull cord, (I press the pwr button and it unlatches) when i go to pick the top up it only goes about a 1/3 or the way and i meet resistance to the point that i dont want to force it. Im thinking the hydraulic pressure release red handle isnt actually releasing the pressure?
    I know it needs to be moved a few times during procedure is there something i can try to enable the top to drop all the way. Ive pulled pretty hard on the cable and it doesnt seem to do anything different. when I put it back in active position its seems loose, a little play to the cable. Thank you and yes I have read Shipkillers DIY which states the owners manual method which is not working. Thanks

  16. #16
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    Shipkiller awesome info

    Shipkiller thanks for the awesome information. Ordered a pump for my Z4 because the top was inop. Using your great info I removed the top from the car. I could tell someone has been to where I was going before and found a brand new pump already installed. And when removing the top to body weather stripping my dry rotted top tore. To add to my horror I found one of the hydraulic hinges was leaking and was the culprit. After finding out these hinges were almost $500 each and look like a complete nightmare to remove I found an entire used top on ebay to replace the whole gig. Since my top canvas was also getting pretty ratty this really worked. An entire top was purchased for $725 including freight shipping from Texas to PA. Including an operating pump. It took 4-5 tries to get the top in and operating. If you install the pump upside down the motor will run but top wont move. Make sure the fluid reservoir is installed facing up as pump is gravity fed. When first operating pump and hear the motor run gotta be patient as to let the pump bleed out the air. Cursed and swore when it didn't move immediately before realizing this. Also getting electrical terminals on the motor crossed so it went up when trying to go down. Does anyone know if there should be sealant or RTV used when installing the top to body weather strip? I just reinstalled it which takes patience but did not use any glue or sealant. Can anyone advise? Thanks again Shipkiller and everyone else with this useful information.

  17. #17
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    '06 M Roadster
    I have a roadblock. The torx screws (in step 11) slipped, both sides, and won't budge at all. I think whoever worked on the car before screwed them in at an angle, since they're sitting not flush to begin with. I've sprayed PB Blaster and left it over night and also sprayed it in the morning. Then I tried using screw extractor but it just wont budge. Any ideas?

    Edit: Finally took it out by using a screw extractor.

    Follow up question - I swapped out the hydro unit. The top closed but it won't open. The top latched on the roof, and i get a solid orange light when I press the "roof open" button. No sound and the windows don't drop either. I've check the red latch, its in it's original position. Not sure what's going on. Any inputs are much appreciated. Thanks!

    Edit 2: The switch in the trunk needs replacement.

    After everything, I hear the sound of the hydro unit and the top unlatches but won't go down or up. What else could the problem be? Looks like the hydro unit wasn't bad to begin with since it sounds just like the old one.
    Last edited by z4m; 12-30-2014 at 03:44 PM. Reason: Updated status

  18. #18
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    2007 BMW Z4 3.0Si

    Replacing MY hydraulic motor on my 2007 Z4 3.0Si

    Shipkiller could you please send pics and and details on the removal of the soft top and replacement of the hydraulic motor. Also any tips on how to improve water drainage like adding a new drain line or screening the orfice.
    My Email is hilerhd1@bellsouth.net

    2007 BMW Z4 3.0Si

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Caramine View Post
    Shipkiller could you please send pics and and details on the removal of the soft top and replacement of the hydraulic motor. Also any tips on how to improve water drainage like adding a new drain line or screening the orfice.
    My Email is hilerhd1@bellsouth.net

    2007 BMW Z4 3.0Si
    see below
    Quote Originally Posted by Clearancediver View Post
    Try googling.... http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=766650

    pdf files are in the thread...

    Going into my TENTH YEAR of providing high quality reproduction BMW fabrics!

    PRICE CUT on ALL FABRICS
    Offering the best prices on the best quality reproduction fabrics!

  20. #20
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    I found the new location of shipkillers instructions thanks.

    I'm fairly confident that the motor has failed again. The top open button only displays an amber light and doesn't even crack the front windows. I also see fluid on the garage floor near the rear wheels. I had BMW replace the motor a few years ago and I believe that it was close to $2000. I want to tackle this myself to seal up the motor this time.

    I get to step 1 of the instructions - pull and SET the RED soft top release handle. This release activates a hydraulic by-pass valve and permits the hydraulic fluid to flow without the motor running, allowing you to move the top by hand. Press and hold the top down button. This will unlock the top permitting you to move the top by hand. Either use two persons to move the top to approx. half way or grasp the top from the center move the top to the half way point.

    The red handle doesn't appear to do much of anything - it seems to be stuck. I've pulled on it and twisted it and it hasn't budged. Is there another way to get the top open? The top is in the completely closed position and locked to the window frame.

  21. #21
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    Mar 2015
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    04 BMW Z4
    I have a 04 BMW Z4 and I just install a new hydro pump. When I try to lower the top, the top will unlock but wot open. i cen hear the pump working. I saw that around the hinges right and left liking fluid. What is the problem? If I buy the repair kit will fix this problem? How can I fix it?
    Last edited by nuku87; 03-08-2015 at 09:15 AM.

  22. #22
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    Does anyone have Shipkiller's photos?

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by kinb2002 View Post
    Does anyone have Shipkiller's photos?
    Look up about 3 posts from yours...

    Going into my TENTH YEAR of providing high quality reproduction BMW fabrics!

    PRICE CUT on ALL FABRICS
    Offering the best prices on the best quality reproduction fabrics!

  24. #24
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    335 bmw S4 audi
    Thanks for the how-to I've documented my installation but alast, my roof is not going up/or down, even if I changed my motor. I can hear the motor running but nothing is happening. The convertible roof button just flashes red. Is there some kind of reinitialisation that I have to do after the install? Also, I had to jump start the car but the car starts on it's own. Should be good for the roof to go up and down no?

    Thanks!

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