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Thread: *DIY E34 540i Fuel Pump Replacement DIY

  1. #1
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    *DIY E34 540i Fuel Pump Replacement DIY

    Still trying to get the car running. So far changed the fuel filter, fuel pump relay, and now the fuel filter...and damn it, it still doesn't start!!

    But anyways I got the $69 fuel pump from a company called TRE. The pump compares to Walbro 255..and is rated at 255 lph.







    Heres the link:

    http://treperformance.com/i-656-bmw-...nd-models.html

    I have never changed a fuel pump before but heard it wasn't hard so I did it and wrote a DIY. Feel free to add tips/comments and I will update the DIY..

    **********************DISCLAIMER****************** ******
    I am not responsible for anything that you do to your car. While this is a very straight forward and detailed DIY, I don't want to be responsible for any mistakes that one could make. Work on your car at your own risk.
    ************************************************** *****

    This DIY may be too detailed for some members. The reason why I made it so detailed is because there are some members here who are just learning to work on cars and I wanted to eliminate any and all guess work.

    Tools Required:

    Universal Fuel Pump (I've seen Walbros and this one is very similar)
    5 New Small Hose Clamps
    Flat Head Screwdriver
    Phillips Head Screwdriver
    10mm Socket
    7mm Socket
    Ratchet
    Tape
    3 Zip Ties
    Soldering Iron
    Solder
    Needle Nose Pliers
    Regular Pliers


    Ok so before you start this DIY, open the hood and unplug the fuel pump relay. Its located on the left side if you're facing the car. Then try to start the car and run it until it stalls. I've also read to open the gas cap to let pressure out. Good Luck!!


    Step 1: Disconnect the battery. For those who still don't know, its located under the rear seat.

    Step 2: Open the trunk and take out the carpet. It will expose the lid on the right.



    Step 3: Using the phillips head screwdriver, unscrew the 5 screws.


    The black lid will come off. Set it aside with the screws.

    TIP FROM stoney85


    I'll just mention that before opening up the fuel tank, clean all the dirt and debris build up so that none can get in the tank, use a paint brush and an air gun, rough it up and blast away the dirt

    it was obvious that you performed this going by the photos, but the last thing you want is dirt going into the fuel tank

    and for the cost of a new seal, its preventative maintenance to just replace it




    You will see this:


    Step 4: Using a flathead screw driver or niddle nose plierts, pry the silver clip towards the rear of the car to disconnect the sensor. The clip slides out and it slides out the sensor:









    Step 5: Now look at the two hoses that attach to two nipples on the lid.


    Remove the clamps with cutters or niddle nose pliers. You may have to replace one or two clamps here. I had to change only one.



    Step 6: Use the niddle nose pliers or your hands to pull the hoses off the nipples. After you pull them off, Tape the ends and tuck them away. You can use a sharpy to mark them but they stay on their sides and it isn't required.


    At this point it should look something like this:


    Step 7: Now you have to work the lid off the studs that hold the nuts. It's kind of tricky but keep trying and you will get it..You have to pull the lid straight up..

    When the lid comes off, you will see something like this:


    Step 8: Keep pulling the whole assembly out. When you have the sand color tube out, reach in there and pinch the bracket from two sides to pull the fuel pump out. Here is a picture of the bracket after i took the pump out. I colored where the brackets are located:


    Here's what the whole assembly looks like:


    Step 9: Now that you have the assembly out, you have to disconnect the fuel pump from it. First Take the 10mm socket and the 7 mm socket and undo the two nuts which attach the wires to the pump:







    Once you have the nuts off and the wires disconnected, you can put the nuts back on the studs so you don’t lose them. Not required.


    Step 10: Take the needle nose pliers or regular pliers and remove the clamp which secures the hose to the pump. Have a new clamp ready to replace the old one during reassembly.



    Once the clamp is off, slide the hose off the pump’s nipple.

    Last edited by acet; 07-17-2009 at 01:45 PM.
    -Леха

  2. #2
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    Step 11:
    Next undo the clamp which secures the second hose to the black bracket. Have a new one ready to replace old one during reassembly.



    Once the clamp is off, slide the second hose off the bracket’s nipple. You will end up with two parts now. They look like this:



    AND



    ^^^In the picture above, the black bracket is already disassembled. In your case it will still be assembled!!!


    Step 12: Now is where it gets tricky. If you take a look at the pump assembly which you have just disconnected from the long sand colored tube, you will see that the pump is sitting in another bracket, which connects to the big round bracket with 4 rubber pieces.

    To remove the pump with the inside bracket, simply slide the rubber holders down with a screw driver. I didn’t notice that, so I just picked the rubber holders with the screwdriver out of the INSIDE bracket:



    If you did that, then its ok. Nothing to worry about. They reinstall easily.

    This picture is from assembly but just look at how to slide the rubber pieces:



    You will have something like this:



    And here just to compare my old and new fuel pump filters…I think I’ll sell the old one on ebay….Mint Condition…Lol.




    Step 13: Now you have to extract the fuel pump and its sleeve from the smaller INSIDE bracket. I recommend completely removing the rubber holders and setting them aside with the big OUTSIDE bracket.

    Using a flathead screw driver, pick the top of the INSIDE bracket. While using a flathead screwdriver to pry the plastic brackets back, I tapped the bottom of the bump on the cement so it would pop out to the top:



    Circled parts is where I had to pry the brackets:



    After a little headache, you should have something like this:



    Now just work the Metal Fuel Pump out of the last black plastic sleeve. The end product is this:





    Step 14:
    OK!! We’re done taking things apart! Now is to reassembly. Take the new fuel pump and carefully install the black rubber sleeve which came with the bump. Flush fit!







    Step 15: Now reinstall the plastic sleeve onto the new fuel pump.






    Step 16:
    Take the smaller INSIDE bracket and reinstall the assembly from the previous STEP into it:





    Also take the 4 rubber holders and reinstall them as well on to the smaller INSIDE bracket. Not the larger OUTSIDE one!! Make sure to install them so that the rubber edges are flush with the plastic bracket.






    Step 17: Now take the assembly from the previous step and reinstall that into the bigger OUTSIDE bracket. Align the rubber holders with their “holes” and slide them in. Lol.





    You will now have something like this:



    Great job, you’re doing awesome!!

    NOTE: The thinner stud on the original fuel pump is + and the thicker one is –

    Better remember that or you will have to re solder. I had to…

    -Леха

  3. #3
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    Step 18: Now is time for soldering iron:



    The lighter brown wire is + and the darker is -. Take the soldering iron and hold it to the old welds until they melt. While you’re melting the old welds, SLIGHTLY pull on the wires from the other side to extract them.





    One is done:



    Two is done:



    You can see the three wires on the pictures and it looks like they connect to where you have to solder but they don’t. You will see what I’m talking about when you do this.


    Step 19: Now take the connector that came with the new fuel pump. It will have two wires, red and black. Obviously red is +, black is -.

    Place the new wires in the place of the old wires (brown ones). There will be two holes for them in the prongs. Solder them.


    The MIDDLE prong is +, and the left one is -. The one on the right is not used.



    THIS IS WRONG: (red and black need to be switched places)



    THIS IS RIGHT:



    ^^^That looks like $H!t so it right the first time and there will not be an issue!!!


    Step 20: Now that your connector (harness) is attached to the terminals, take 3 zip ties and attach the wires to the same hose that plugs into your fuel pump and NOT into the bracket:







    Step 21: Plug the connector plug into the new fuel pump.




    Step 22:
    Now install a new clamp on the hose which connects to the bigger OUTSIDE bracket. Slide the hose onto the nipple, slide the clamp over the nipple and tighten it to secure it:







    Step 23: Install a new clamp on the hose which goes to the fuel pump and slide the hose onto the nipple. Slide the clamp over the nipple and tighten it to secure it.







    Step 24: Now take the fuel filter (recommended to use new set of rubber gloves) and install it onto the fuel pump:







    You are now done reassembling the assembly. Time to reinstall the assembly back into the fuel cell.


    Step 25: Take the whole assembly and rest it in the trunk. The fuel pump goes in first. Insert it into the fuel tank and attach it to the bracket:





    Check to make sure that it is secured and clipped in place.


    Step 26:
    Once the pump is reinstalled into the fuel cell bracket, you have to insert the long sand colored tube into the tank. This is what worked for me:





    Step 27: Now align the lid and slide it down on the 8 studs. Secure it with the nuts. I tightened them in the same pattern that applies for wheels. Cress-cross.





    I DIDN’T get the new seal. I don’t know one if new one is required or not… Just wipe the area of the seal with some oil and tighten them down good, but not to break the studs!!!



    Step 28: Reinstall the hoses and the new clamps in their place and tighten them securely.





    Step 29: Reconnect the plug back in its place:



    Now just reinstall the lid and reconnect the battery. If you have taken the Fuel pump relay out, reinstall it.

    The End!
    Last edited by acet; 06-03-2009 at 05:20 PM.
    -Леха

  4. #4
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    Great write up!
    Vehicles:
    (Sold) 95' 525 - ZF320 5-speed swap, 3.46LSD rear, Raceland headers + straight pipe
    (Current) 2012 Scion tC 6-spd M/T - slow

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by russiankid View Post
    Great write up!
    Thanks bro! It's what I do
    -Леха

  6. #6
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    Does the car run?


  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by 1992525 View Post
    Does the car run?
    I was going to ask the same question?

    "I did the fuel pump swap, and it still doesn't run!"...jk

    Very nice write-up, very detailed and great pics

    Also, how does it run...do you like the TRE pump?
    Last edited by AZDinanE34; 06-03-2009 at 06:40 PM.

  8. #8
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    Nice DIY!

    Although, when I did mine about a year ago, I don't remember it being that much of a pain in the ass. Buying a fuel pump that's already assembled can save you a lot of time and stress. But congrats to you for doing it the hard way!

    Has anyone really been far even as decided to use even go want to do look more like?

  9. #9
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    congratulations on the fantastic write-up, who could ask for much more!

  10. #10
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    Really good write-ups coming out of you man. And lord, I didn't take that many pics on a cruise . Just be glad we don't have the E30 style fuel pump covers haha.
    Dave
    1995 Lincoln Towncar.
    Cartier
    I pimp your mom

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by 1992525 View Post
    Does the car run?
    Nope. However I'm about 99% that I did everything right. There wasn't much room for error. Now have to test and replace the CPS..and hopefully it will actually start instead of just cranking



    Quote Originally Posted by AZDinanE34 View Post
    I was going to ask the same question?

    "I did the fuel pump swap, and it still doesn't run!"...jk

    Very nice write-up, very detailed and great pics

    Also, how does it run...do you like the TRE pump?
    I haven't driven the car since I installed this pump but the member who recommended me this pump, quick93, said he has installed two in his mustangs and he couldn't be happier...

    Also the walbro 255 are awesome pump and I doubt that the TRE will be any different.



    Quote Originally Posted by scyrusurcys View Post
    Nice DIY!

    Although, when I did mine about a year ago, I don't remember it being that much of a pain in the ass. Buying a fuel pump that's already assembled can save you a lot of time and stress. But congrats to you for doing it the hard way!
    Thanks man!! Yes buying a new one with the assembly is much easier however if your fuel pump goes bad and you don't have 200 or 300 to pay for a new OEM one, you can have this one installed and running for about $80.. Also it is rated at 255 lph (liters per hour) compared to the OEM one running 125 lph (If I'm not mistaking. About 90% sure).

    Either way, thanks again. Hope it becomes useful for some members.



    Quote Originally Posted by jessejames View Post
    congratulations on the fantastic write-up, who could ask for much more!
    Thanks man! I learn a lot from you guys as well and am glad to be able to bring something to the table.



    Quote Originally Posted by David325e View Post
    Really good write-ups coming out of you man. And lord, I didn't take that many pics on a cruise . Just be glad we don't have the E30 style fuel pump covers haha.
    Thanks bro! Hehe man I wish I was as good at being responsible and doing things on time as I am writing these.


    Anyways I'm just glad some people will find this useful
    -Леха

  12. #12
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    WOOOOOOOT!!!!! I Popped the E34 DIY Section's Cherry!!!! 1st DIY in this section!! Heheh

    Btw, there is also a DIY fuel filter replacement for E34 540i that can get moved here also if the mods are interested
    -Леха

  13. #13
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    Wow, makes me want to go out and change mine, even though I don't really need to.

    I followed your fuel filter thread this morning while I changed them out...My thanks to you...This guy is great!!

  14. #14
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    great write up, however I'll just mention that before opening up the fuel tank, clean all the dirt and debris build up so that none can get in the tank, use a paint brush and an air gun, rough it up and blast away the dirt

    it was obvious that you performed this going by the photos, but the last thing you want is dirt going into the fuel tank

    and for the cost of a new seal, its preventative maintenance to just replace it

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by xlr8tin View Post
    Wow, makes me want to go out and change mine, even though I don't really need to.

    I followed your fuel filter thread this morning while I changed them out...My thanks to you...This guy is great!!
    Thanks man! I'm just glad that our army of e34s is striving haha

    Quote Originally Posted by stoney85 View Post
    great write up, however I'll just mention that before opening up the fuel tank, clean all the dirt and debris build up so that none can get in the tank, use a paint brush and an air gun, rough it up and blast away the dirt

    it was obvious that you performed this going by the photos, but the last thing you want is dirt going into the fuel tank

    and for the cost of a new seal, its preventative maintenance to just replace it
    Yeah you're absolutely right. I will add it to the DIY when I have some time at work today...

    Thank you very much for your input and for improving the diy

    OT** Brakes DIY is coming together but the calipers are still at the powdercoating shop, so it will be up once I get them back. Thanks for waiting guys.
    -Леха

  16. #16
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    thanks a lot for this detailed write-up.
    Do you or anyone else have the dimensions of the TrePerformance pump? Length, diameter?
    My E32 750 needs 2 pumps and they are pretty expensive, so I would be interested to see if they fit into that dual pump holder inside the tank.
    OEM pump is 69493 Bosch, list price per piece! is $559.75
    Capacitywise it is almost the same like the M30 pump, the fuel pressure for the M30 and M70 engine is 3 bar, the M60 engine needs 3.5 Bar.
    M70 pumps/each:
    operating pressure: 3 bar
    conveying capacity at 12 V: 1.7 liter per minute=102/60 minutes

    conveying capacity under counter pressure: 875 ccm/30 seconds
    ==105 liters/60 minutes/1 hour
    power consumption: 5.5 Amp.


    Might be of interest for the Aussies heore on the forum which pay a lot for OEM pumps. In this case it is an E32 740 with M60B40 engine. Here copied the info from Bimmerboard:

    "What a difference a new fuel pump makes
    The "Beast" died yesterday, usual place, centre of a major intersection, peak hour traffic, great. Towed home, established the pump was not working, now was it not working coz it died, or lost it's signal from the "brain"?

    This stems to my ask recently about the "magic reset", coz every now and then I was getting a slight stumble as I took off from the lights. Then it went away, then this. I really should have picked it, as all my Jags (V12's mainly) have done this just before the pump died, but they are external pumps and easy to "whack" and hear running, or not. The BMW is not so friendly, oh well.

    Anyway, I was not paying $400+ for a BMW pump, even aftermarket, and none in SA anyway, so a universal in tank pump was "made" to fit, easy really, and damn the car runs "sweet". I thought it was a sweet V8 before, but this is SWEET. It was the original pump dated 10/1993, so it is fair enough. I might still do that reset one of these days mmmm."

    --------------
    I asked him for details, here the answer:

    "OK, here goes.

    Used a Goss GE017, which is listed for our Aussie Falcon V8, and as a "universal", and that word is open to interpretation I believe.

    Specs are:

    51mm diam, internal HP fuel pump.
    2.25lpm @ 200kpa drawing 4.5amps. This is I believe a standard lpm @ kpa indicator.
    Open pressure 650kpa drawing 7.5amps.

    It took a little thinking to secure the pump in the plastic cradle, but a simple hose clamp did the trick, and made it easy to set the depth (I measured that before taking it apart). The sock took some jiggling to sit in the bowl without crimping, but once the angles were sorted it worked fine, a bit of push and shove does wonders.

    The pressure side did not come into my equation, coz that is taken care of by the pressure regulator, I think, with the excess returned to the tank, at least it does on the Jags, not really much different to any EFI car, and at 650kpa there is plenty of reserve, and our Aussie Falcon V8 uses heaps more fuel than my V8 ever will.

    My fuel pressure gauge has a leaking braided hose, so next time I go to town I will get a new hose and report back the actual goings on with my engine.

    It took a few minutes to settle to a decent idle, but maybe the ECU needed to get it's head around the increased fuel available????. The old pump is real sick, worse than any I have seen in 40+ years. "

    ----------------------------
    Hope that helps some of you in Australia

    just checked, the spec is
    GOSS FUEL PUMP KIT FOR EA, EB, ED, EF, EL 3.9LT & 4.0LT FALCON & NC NF NL FAIRLANE 5.0LT
    PART CODE GE017
    Comes with everything needed, instructions new pickup striner / filter and seal. RRP $160
    Winning bid: AU $56.01

    -------------------
    FORD FALCON EA-EL SEDAN/WAGON ELECTRIC FUEL PUMP Part no. GE017, SUITS
    Ford Falcon EA GL 4D Sedan YEAR: 01/02/1988 - 01/11/1989
    Ford Falcon EA GL 4D Wagon YEAR: 01/02/1988 - 01/11/1989
    Ford Falcon EB GL 4D Sedan YEAR: 01/07/1991 - 01/04/1992
    Ford Falcon EB GL 4D Wagon YEAR: 01/07/1991 - 01/04/1992
    Ford Falcon ED Futura 4D Sedan YEAR: 01/08/1993 - 01/08/1994
    Ford Falcon ED Futura Classic 4D Sedan YEAR: 01/10/1993 - 01/08/1994
    Ford Falcon EF Futura 4D Sedan YEAR: 26/08/1994 - 26/09/1996
    Ford Falcon EF Futura Classic 4D Sedan YEAR: 10/10/1995 - 26/09/1996
    Ford Falcon EF GLI 4D Sedan YEAR: 26/08/1994 - 26/09/1996
    Ford Falcon EF GLI Classic 4D Sedan YEAR: 10/10/1995 - 26/09/1996
    Ford Falcon EL Futura 4D Sedan YEAR: 26/09/1996 - 03/09/1998

    buy now price: AU $89.00 Seller: ultracheapauto
    http://stores.shop.ebay.com.au/Ultra...__W0QQ_armrsZ1
    They officially offer it for the 3 series
    BMW SERIES 3 (SEDAN, COUPE, CONVERTIBLE) ELECTRIC FUEL PUMP Part no. GE017
    SUITS
    BMW car auto PARTS 318i 320i 323i 325i 328 FUEL PUMP.
    SAVE BIG MONEY ON BMW ELECTRIC FUEL PUMPS
    BMW 318i E36 4D Sedan YEAR: 01/05/1991 - 14/08/1998
    BMW 318i E36 Executive 4D Sedan YEAR: 01/07/1997 - 14/08/1998
    BMW 318i E36 Limited 4D Sedan YEAR: 01/05/1996 - 01/07/1997
    BMW 318i E36 Signature Edition 4D Sedan YEAR: 01/03/1995 - 01/05/1996
    BMW 320i E36 4D Sedan YEAR: 01/05/1991 - 01/01/1996
    BMW 323i E36 4D Sedan YEAR: 01/01/1996 - 14/08/1998
    BMW 323i E36 Executive 4D Sedan YEAR: 01/01/1997- 14/08/1998
    BMW 323i E46 4D Sedan YEAR: 14/08/1998 - 04/10/2000
    BMW 325Ci E46 2D Coupe YEAR: 16/11/2000 - 31/12/9999
    BMW 325i E36 2D Convertible YEAR: 01/12/1993 - 01/06/1995
    BMW 325i E36 2D Coupe YEAR: 01/05/1992 - 01/06/1995
    BMW 325i E36 4D Sedan YEAR: 01/05/1991 - 01/06/1995
    BMW 328i E36 2D Convertible YEAR: 01/06/1995 - 01/01/1997
    BMW 328i E36 2D Coupe YEAR: 01/06/1993 - 01/01/1997
    BMW 328i E36 4D Sedan YEAR: 01/06/1995 - 01/01/1997
    BMW 328i E36 Executive 2D Convertible YEAR: 01/01/1997 - 13/09/2000
    BMW 328i E36 Executive 2D Coupe YEAR: 01/01/1997 - 18/06/1999
    BMW 328i E36 Executive 4D Sedan YEAR: 01/01/1997 - 14/08/1998
    BMW 328i E36 High-Line 2D Convertible YEAR: 01/01/1997 - 13/09/2000
    BMW 328i E36 High-Line 2D Coupe YEAR: 01/01/1997 - 18/06/1999
    BMW 328i E36 High-Line 4D Sedan YEAR: 01/01/1997 - 14/08/1998
    BMW 328i E46 4D Sedan YEAR: 14/08/1998 - 13/09/2000

    89 Australian Dollar = 69.51 US Dollar = 49.65 EURO
    Shogun tricks and tips for the E32 series are HERE!

  17. #17
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    It says that it will fit any bmw. Quick93 told me that he had this pump in several of his cars and that its awesome. I think it will work great for your car. Heres a copy and paste from their website:

    This brand new TRE-340 255 LPH high pressure in-tank fuel pump flows about 235lph at 13.5v and 40psi which can support over 600hp at the crank in naturally aspirated engines, and 500hp at the crank in supercharged or turbo applications!

    You will receive one TRE-340 255LPH Fuel Pump with installation kit, exactly as pictured, which will fit every model, engine, type or style for every vehicle listed:

    This pump will fit all BMW Models with return style fuel systems.
    If you have questions about your specific year/make/model just send us an email.



    I do not know the dimensions but it looked just like the stock pump. Same lengths.
    -Леха

  18. #18
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    Thanks, do you still have the old pump to measure it? Just the outer dimensions are of importance for me, because they have to fit here in
    http://bmwe32.masscom.net/sean750/fu...t/Fuelpump.htm

    the TrePerformance pump capacity is by far enough, that should be no problem.

    This pump will fit all BMW Models with return style fuel systems.
    If you have questions about your specific year/make/model just send us an email.
    I live in Japan, so I asked someone from USA to contact them last year if they would fit also for the E32 750. Answer was one word: "no"
    no explanation, nothing. Maybe that guy who answered had a bad day then, but I would have appreciated the reason why not.

    Thanks a lot for your help.
    Last edited by shogun; 08-12-2009 at 10:04 AM.
    Shogun tricks and tips for the E32 series are HERE!

  19. #19
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    I do have the stock pump so I can measure it when I get home from work. I can also call them once I get home tonight.
    -Леха

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by acet View Post
    I do have the stock pump so I can measure it when I get home from work. I can also call them once I get home tonight.

    Did you get the Car running?

    I wanted to just mention an incident which almost had me getting my Car Towed believing my Fuel Pump had died.

    I was driving along and the car died. All the lights on the Instrument Panel came on but there was no throttle response so I pulled over.. I tried restarting the car and it sounded like it wanted to start but just chugged and died like it was getting no fuel... I checked the Fuses and the relay ,still had Battery Power and the engine didn't sound seized so i called AAA for a Tow.. it was 1 am. Then while waiting for the Tow Truck something said Throttle Cable so I went and removed the Engine Cover and tried to start the Car and it started.. The Throttle Cable had snagged on the Engine Cover.. I ordered Thomas Meacham's Aluminum Throttle Cable Bushings so the lines would stay in place better.. Have you looked at and tried to free up your throttle cables down there by the Throttle? I'd recommend at least giving it a shot if you think this sounds similar to what you experience.. I canceled the Tow and was very relieved..
    Last edited by jehu; 08-12-2009 at 04:36 PM.

  21. #21
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    My Cars
    318i/5
    Quote Originally Posted by jehu View Post
    Did you get the Car running?

    I wanted to just mention an incident which almost had me getting my Car Towed believing my Fuel Pump had died.

    I was driving along and the car died. All the lights on the Instrument Panel came on but there was no throttle response so I pulled over.. I tried restarting the car and it sounded like it wanted to start but just chugged and died like it was getting no fuel... I checked the Fuses and the relay ,still had Battery Power and the engine didn't sound seized so i called AAA for a Tow.. it was 1 am. Then while waiting for the Tow Truck something said Throttle Cable so I went and removed the Engine Cover and tried to start the Car and it started.. The Throttle Cable had snagged on the Engine Cover.. I ordered Thomas Meacham's Aluminum Throttle Cable Bushings so the lines would stay in place better.. Have you looked at and tried to free up your throttle cables down there by the Throttle? I'd recommend at least giving it a shot if you think this sounds similar to what you experience.. I canceled the Tow and was very relieved..

    My engine cover is sitting in the closet. I like the look of the engine. I'll still check the throttle cable just in case when I get home. Thanks for the input man and Im glad everything worked out for you.

    And no, the car is still not running. I'm sick and tired of it just sitting there!! Arg!!! I hate it when my car breaks!!!
    -Леха

  22. #22
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    Japan
    Posts
    54,655
    My Cars
    11/88 E32 750iL+98 E36M3
    acet: can you get the dimensions of your old stock pump for me? That would be very kind, then I know if the same Treperformance pumps will fit or not in my 750, I need 2 of them on the 750.
    Thanks
    Shogun tricks and tips for the E32 series are HERE!

  23. #23
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Atlanta, GA
    Posts
    1,209
    My Cars
    318i/5
    Hey, sorry it took me so long. Here's what I got:





    add another 1" to the 2nd imagine for fuel pump filter.
    -Леха

  24. #24
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    Japan
    Posts
    54,655
    My Cars
    11/88 E32 750iL+98 E36M3
    Perfect ! Exactly what I needed, the pics say it all. Now I just have to convert it into centimeters, because in this part of the world we use cm.
    Then I can use my old bracket from my parts 750 and take the measures there on next weekend, as the parts car is located outside of town.

    Thanks a lot for your help!
    Shogun tricks and tips for the E32 series are HERE!

  25. #25
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Atlanta, GA
    Posts
    1,209
    My Cars
    318i/5
    Quote Originally Posted by shogun View Post
    Perfect ! Exactly what I needed, the pics say it all. Now I just have to convert it into centimeters, because in this part of the world we use cm.
    Then I can use my old bracket from my parts 750 and take the measures there on next weekend, as the parts car is located outside of town.

    Thanks a lot for your help!
    Glad I could help. Sorry once again for taking so long. Best of luck man!!
    -Леха

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