I finally finished installing my clutch master cylinder and hope to help out others by providing some tips that made it easier for me.
First, I raised the vehicle with a nice jack to access the slave down below and make it easier to work inside the car. I also placed down some towels to make it more comfortable on my knees while working in the pedal box area.
Then I removed fluid from the brakes/clutch master reservoir using my vacuum pump.
The small bucket is there to prevent debris to enter the sytem, I removed it to speed up the process.
I removed enough fluid to clear the master cylinder intake hose.
Then I disconnected the electrical connector next to the wrench and removed the clutch master rod from the pedal (you need to take out the pedal box plastic panel first).
I removed the two 10mm bolts holding the cylinder to the pedal box.
I pushed away the intake hose using a 10mm wrench and wiggling around the hose and the cylinder away from each other. I placed rags underneath to catch eventual spills.
The hose can be pulled out a couple of inches and it makes it easier to reinstall.
Then I pulled on the master cylinder until I could fit a boxed wrench around the 12mm bolt. Prior to unscrewing it I sprayed a small amount of penetrating oil on the bolt in the back of the cylinder. I used a wide wise-grip (a big adjustable wrench would do too) and unscrewed the cylinder holding the boxed wrench still. I didn't need to tighten the wise-grip, it was just used for leverage around the cylinder, it came loose easily. I used some rags here as well to catch spills.
(Note my custom clutch stop here, came in handy to keep the carpet away! Oh and watch for a hot 12V wire underneath the sound deadening in the top left corner.)
To re-install, I screwed the cylinder into the 12mm bolt from the clutch line, put the T of the intake hose in the cylinder first and then pushed the hose into the T. Afterward, I fastened the two 10mm bolts holding the cylinder in place, re-attached the rod and the electrical connector.
To bleed the system, I found it a lot easier to attach my vacuum pump to the slave cylinder bleeder valve and suck the air out while the clutch pedal was depressed.
Here are the steps that I used:
1. Fill the reservoir all the way.
2. Pump the pedal slowly to get some fluid into the system.
3. Keep the pedal down (at first it's easy, after a while I used a long piece of wood against the side bolster of my seat to keep it down).
4. Go under the car, squeeze the vacuum pump a couple of times and open the bleeder screw, lots of air will come out at first, squeeze the pump a couple more times.
5. Close the bleeder valve and go to the step 2. (go to step 1. if the reservoir gets low.)
I hope this helps some of you. I know I couldn't find a good write-up with pictures and some steps would have been easier had I known what things looked like.
Former ///M Driver SOLD: 1995 BMW E34 Euro M5 Touring
Nice write up man Im going to save this for my E34 Bible.
Nice job and good method for getting it done with few tools, but one thing to point out: always use jack stands. Very, very dangerous to get under a car with just a jack holding it up.
Nice job illustrating what needs to be done.
There is a plastic plug in the inner fender that allows access to the hydraulic line at the back of the clutch master. Unless things are very corroded the line can be loosened there without visegrips and such.
If you can leave two black stripes from the exit of one corner to the braking zone of the next, you have enough horsepower. - Mark Donohue
Funny, I just removed and installed my MC cylinder like 3 times today. Some trial and error in my 5 speed swap. Definately a PITA job to do.
1994 BMW 525i(a) - Diamantsschwarz Metallic - 5speed swap - LSD - 18" MK Motorsport MK1 - KW Suspension - Sport interior - Bunch of rust - Horrible paint - Shadowline tape - Cheap tint - Oil leaks
Thanks guys, keep the tips coming.
Former ///M Driver SOLD: 1995 BMW E34 Euro M5 Touring
Manuel you up for lunch one day or something Id love to see the touring and get a few pics of the 3.8. PM me.
Im doing the tranny swap this weekend in my Touring, does the switch above the clutch master needed for the car to function or is it saftey when starting the car. im not sure if that switch is there since Im swapping from auto to manual.
You can check your car's wiring diagram to see what the switch is connected to.
http://www.armchair.mb.ca/~dave/BMW/e34/ (quickly googled this one, I'm sure there are others)
Former ///M Driver SOLD: 1995 BMW E34 Euro M5 Touring
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