Convertible owners: How do you remove trunk mounted third brake light?

[IS300E30]

I am looking to remove my old trunk mounted third brake light with a brand new one as my lens rubber gasket is no longer present and I read that this is a known issue which most likely causes my "check" light not to turn off when I press the brake.

When I unscrew the tools which is located on the under side of the trunk lid, all I can see is two screws hidden within the cushion that is attached to the underside of the trunk. I believe there are more screws that need to be taken off to remove the third brake light. But where are they?

This is the part that I am referring to that I would like to remove and replace with a new one: http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...04&hg=63&fg=25 # 9

[ZacCarr86]

I replaced mine and I'm pretty sure that there were just two screws. If there are more, you'll realize where they are when it won't detach from one end of the trunk.

[Mossman11]

4 or 6 screws, some are hidden under the foam IIRC. I think there's 6

[RomeoMike]

I am looking to remove my old trunk mounted third brake light with a brand new one as my lens rubber gasket is no longer present and I read that this is a known issue which most likely causes my "check" light not to turn off when I press the brake.

When I unscrew the tools which is located on the under side of the trunk lid, all I can see is two screws hidden within the cushion that is attached to the underside of the trunk. I believe there are more screws that need to be taken off to remove the third brake light. But where are they?

This is the part that I am referring to that I would like to remove and replace with a new one: http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...04&hg=63&fg=25 # 9

When you open the trunk lid and lower the tool kit, there are four screw holes in a rectangular pattern. Only remove the bottom two. The other two are in the raceway along the front trunk lid. They are near two screws used to attach the tool kit hinge, and the raceway will have round access holes for the screws as compared to rectangular cutaways.

I had to figure this out when I did the bulb replacement job back in December 2008, and an effective replacement bulb is a Sylvania 921. Be careful with the bulb holder, as I would expect it to be quite brittle.

[joe30]

Does "Raceway" = Trunk lid bracing or reinforcments where the wires also run? New term, I almost missed those when I replaced my bulb this winter.

When you open the trunk lid and lower the tool kit, there are four screw holes in a rectangular pattern. Only remove the bottom two. The other two are in the raceway along the front trunk lid. They are near two screws used to attach the tool kit hinge, and the raceway will have round access holes for the screws as compared to rectangular cutaways.

I had to figure this out when I did the bulb replacement job back in December 2008, and an effective replacement bulb is a Sylvania 921. Be careful with the bulb holder, as I would expect it to be quite brittle.

[jcbrown630]

Does "Raceway" = Trunk lid bracing or reinforcments where the wires also run? New term, I almost missed those when I replaced my bulb this winter.

Yes, the other 2 screws are located under the reinforcing. There are holes in the reinforcing steel to access the screws. Use a magnetic driver to avoid droppin the screws down inside the trunk lid.

[RomeoMike]

Does "Raceway" = Trunk lid bracing or reinforcments where the wires also run? New term, I almost missed those when I replaced my bulb this winter.

Raceway

A channel for protecting and holding electrical wires and cables, esp. a metal rectangular tube used for such purposes.

Occasionally, I've helped pull networking cable through conduit in buildings, so I saw the similarity with the trunk lid wiring.

[eurotrash13]

Keep me posted if replacing the rubber gasket solves the "check" light issue. I'm in a similar situation.

[IS300E30]

Keep me posted if replacing the rubber gasket solves the "check" light issue. I'm in a similar situation.

I will update you, but, it is not just the rubber gasket. It is the rubber gasket around the light lens, the big rubber gasket pad attached to the trunk lid, wires, bulb socket. The only thing I am not replacing is the top painted part.

What I have been reading from the research I have done is that these third brake lights on the convertibles are very prone to leaking as the rubber gasket around the lens fails. The light will still work BUT, the sensor will think there is an issue as the water has corroded the bulb socket, sensor, and possibly hurt the wiring.

Now, if you want to get away cheap and do not care that the computer is detected the third brake light. Attached to the light bulb socket there are wiring going down, then there is this little computer board where the wires connect to one part of the board and then a second set of wires connect to the other part of the board. If you want you can cut the wires off the board and then just connect both the input and the output of the wires together. The third brake light will work, the light sensor will not trip as you bypassed the sensor and the check light will not come on.

Now, that is what i read, if it doesn't work do not blame me

Lastly, there are some people selling the third brake light for a heck of a lot cheaper than buying it new but the problem is as I stated these convertible third brake lights are prone to leaking. Thus if you buy a used one you will mostly likely have the same issue. I tried and the one I bought I just sent back.



Lastly, I thank everyone for there help. But, are you saying there are more than two screws? 4-6 from what I just read on this thread BUT, that I only need to remove 2 of them to get the third brake light out? Did I read that correctly? If not, can you give me some detail where those other 4 screws are located and how do I get to them?

[Mossman11]

dude just look under the lid, it's like a 1/3 of a square foot area, there are either 4 or 6 screws I can't remember, all phillips head. Some are accessed through holes in the bracing like a poster ahead said . It's not rocket surgery.

[IS300E30]

What kind of surgery do "rockets" need to have? Just curious lol I think your mixing up the two terms "its not rocket science" and "its not brain surgery" lol

[Mossman11]

i was making a joke. get the damn brake light swapped already maybe it is rocket surgery for you, this should be done already

[robmpulse]

I want to add that replacing on the the gasket will not fix any electrical issue.

If the gasket is bad, it needs to be replaced. But you will also need to find the corrosion caused by the moisture that leaked in and fix that too. Could be a connector, a lens socket, or both... But you get the idea......

Cleaning all your contacts while you are in there is always recommended and easy to do. Also put a little electrical grease on them to prevent any further corrosion.

Also, it's a good time to replace the lens, too. Very rare do you see an e30 that does not need one...

[RomeoMike]

Since the tasking has switched to the bottom rubber gasket pad, then to get to that, six screws (all Philips head) have to come out. If you want to get the toolkit out of the way, then the final answer is eight. I visited the salvage yard today, and pulled the trunk mounted stoplight from an 89 convertible.

Raceway has two screws
Top (foam padded side of tool kit) has the remaining four

BMW/Hella did not cover themselves in glory with the design of this light. If all you have to do is change the bulb, that's not too bad. If you're just changing gaskets/rubber pads, that's reasonable. The retaining tabs for the bulb holder are incredibly brittle. If you're changing out the bottom assembly, then you have some PITA issues (at least on the 89 I worked with):

To reuse the small circuit board, break out your drill and either invest in some small, thin self-tapping screws or epoxy.

While the bulb holder has two female spade terminals, the circuit board has four soldered connections. I didn't see a quick disconnect for the wiring harness. You might catch a break if the circuit board can pass through the hole in the bottom assembly, but I haven't verified it that's possible.

Good luck.