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Thread: Folks with TCK suspension / TCK camber plates - spring pop/bind?

  1. #1
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    Folks with TCK suspension / TCK camber plates - spring pop/bind?

    Installed a TCK S/A kit over the weekend, also bought a used set of TCK camber plates that were in nice shape - I chose to press in new spherical bearings because one bearing felt a touch loose compared to the other.

    I prob have ~70 miles on it, it didnt seem to do it at first but 3 days later it started making audible noises when turning the car. I jacked up the front yesterday and applied lithium grease to the perches and everything is able to move/spin, its not dirty etc.

    My Porsche used to do this same thing before I swapped out some solid upper strut mounts for a Ground Control camber plate - now that car doesnt make a sound.

    Just curious if anyone had ran into this before with this setup, I know some coilovers just do this but I dont think I can live with it day to day. Talked to TCK and he said as long as everything is tight its ok, said to grease it and it would help the sound, he doesnt think its the bearing in the plates but just the springs/perches moving.

    Love the setup, car rides amazing, first trackday late April - looking forward to it.


    Thanks,
    Sam

  2. #2
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    If you left Part #7 out in the following diagram the spring will bind. It's a big washer.

    http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...39&hg=31&fg=10

  3. #3
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    Sam can't say I have...can you isolate a side or is it both?
    alpinweiß on anthrazit buffalo 1984 745i, 2014 Fiesta ST, 1984 635csi 1986 635csi 1987 L6 1999 M coupe 2002 M3 1995 325i 1976 200​2, 2001 996 TT 1994 850 T5 wagon 1998 GTi VR6 1983 scirocco

  4. #4
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    I definitely did not reinstall any washers from the stock setup. eek?

    IIRC here is how mine is: strut assembly itself, bottom collars, spring, upper spring hat, titanium part/spacer from TCK (one side rides on the spring hat, other side fits into the camber plate bearing and then the TCK titanium nut on top.

    From just listening myself it sounds like its both sides.
    Last edited by SamGrant951; 02-26-2009 at 02:40 PM.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by SamGrant951 View Post
    I prob have ~70 miles on it, it didnt seem to do it at first but 3 days later it started making audible noises when turning the car. I jacked up the front yesterday and applied lithium grease to the perches and everything is able to move/spin, its not dirty etc.

    Just curious if anyone had ran into this before with this setup

    Thanks,
    Sam
    Yes, mine does this as well. It sounds like a creaking and popping when you turn the steering wheel.

    I didn't have any sound issues for the longest time after I bought the car (PO had installed the suspension), but after I sprayed some wd-40 on a part in that area (the adjustment collars to help loosen them) the noise crept up and has stuck around.

    I'm personally over it. People stare at the car already anyway, so popping noises just make a few more people cast funny glances at the car... no biggie

  6. #6
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    Are you absolutely certain the top nut is securely fashioned? If it is not fully tightened down (using preferrably a drop or two of blue lock tite), you will hear excess noise over bumps and in some manuvers. Regarding the REALOEM picture, that is not completely applicable to when you are installing coilovers with camber plates. You should obviously have a upper spring perch (about 3" in diameter, a slip in spacer which slides over the strut shaft and inside the bearing of the camber plates, the camber plate itself with bearrings, and the upper nut which you install with the flange side down. If you don't have the slip in spacer (probably not the precise description) or the upper nut installed the correct direction, or its not snug, you will hear vibration/sounds.
    Now in E92 M3 ZCP -- Absolute beast

  7. #7
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    35K on my set with many track miles before they were moved over to Project 99. Then another 2 years of track only. Everthing still solid and no noise of any kind. If you are hearing something, it's not right.
    Dan "PbFut" Rose

  8. #8
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    no noise here...on either car.

  9. #9
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    Thanks guys - took it all apart and put it back together (the top strut nut was upside down, derrrrrr) - took it around the block once and its noise-free. Ill drive it around tomorrow and put some more miles on it to confirm. Man Im an idiot sometimes. Now its time for a drink...

  10. #10
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    I'd like to know how this works for you, as my TCK setup also rattles at lower speeds. I lifted the front end up in the air and checked my plates, which appears to be tight, as well as everything else BUT the springs, as they fall out when the car is lifted. I was contemplating taking apart the front end as well.
    dion
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  11. #11
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    I had rattling with the TC Kline camber plates, but it was due to the nut not being tight enough and the shock rattling up and down inside the camber plate.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by SamGrant951 View Post
    Thanks guys - took it all apart and put it back together (the top strut nut was upside down, derrrrrr) - took it around the block once and its noise-free. Ill drive it around tomorrow and put some more miles on it to confirm. Man Im an idiot sometimes. Now its time for a drink...
    Any updates? Is it still rattle free?
    dion
    '00 M roadster, modded
    '98 SVT Contour, lots of mods
    '04 Sienna XLE LTD AWD
    '08 MB C300 Sport, P1, 18's
    Tamiya TA05, Evolution IV MS, CR-01
    Kyosho MP777 SP2
    Losi BK2 and MRC
    Traxxas Slash, hopped-up.
    newest toy is the Tamiya TRF801XT

  13. #13
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    Hi Dion,
    Yes I have put some more miles on it - no rattling whatsoever. Only once every few drives do I hear a slight spring pop and its barely noticeable...much different than before when the nut was upside down. Im going to put it back on stands in a week or so and recheck/retighten everything but Im happy now...couldnt stand the noises before.

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by SamGrant951 View Post
    Hi Dion,
    Yes I have put some more miles on it - no rattling whatsoever. Only once every few drives do I hear a slight spring pop and its barely noticeable...much different than before when the nut was upside down. Im going to put it back on stands in a week or so and recheck/retighten everything but Im happy now...couldnt stand the noises before.
    Okay, so how do you tell if the nut is upside-down? I know I should know, but now I'm questioning if I installed everything correctly and if I should take it all apart.

    I still get the spring pop as well, but it's the low speed rattling that gets to me.
    dion
    '00 M roadster, modded
    '98 SVT Contour, lots of mods
    '04 Sienna XLE LTD AWD
    '08 MB C300 Sport, P1, 18's
    Tamiya TA05, Evolution IV MS, CR-01
    Kyosho MP777 SP2
    Losi BK2 and MRC
    Traxxas Slash, hopped-up.
    newest toy is the Tamiya TRF801XT

  15. #15
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    Yeah the rattling would worry me - I would double check the tightness of every single bolt/nut that connects the strut and or parts to the strut...that doesnt sound normal. The nut should have the square/socket sides at the top and the cone/round end towards the bottom (if that makes sense) - if not I can take a pic.

  16. #16
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    Well, then mine is correct. I will have to just take things apart on my next few days off.
    dion
    '00 M roadster, modded
    '98 SVT Contour, lots of mods
    '04 Sienna XLE LTD AWD
    '08 MB C300 Sport, P1, 18's
    Tamiya TA05, Evolution IV MS, CR-01
    Kyosho MP777 SP2
    Losi BK2 and MRC
    Traxxas Slash, hopped-up.
    newest toy is the Tamiya TRF801XT

  17. #17
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    I don't know about the SA setup but the DA setup "rattles"/pop's which I thought originally was loose parts. In the DA case it is a known issue with the valving in the shocks, valves opening and closing. On the track it's not noticable, around town I have learned to live with it.

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by bmellott View Post
    I don't know about the SA setup but the DA setup "rattles"/pop's which I thought originally was loose parts. In the DA case it is a known issue with the valving in the shocks, valves opening and closing. On the track it's not noticable, around town I have learned to live with it.
    That's so funny, because I didn't believe that at first, but after reading several posts about the Z4 TCK D/A setup's, I'm now starting to think that it is my shocks. I have the D/A setup, and I love the adjustability and I've been living with the sound for a while now.

    I will try to tighten the top nuts with the impact gun "method". I hope I don't break anything!

    What about all the stories of having the shocks swapped with the "newer" designs? I've had my setup for over 2 years now, but I'm wondering if I can send my current front's in for a set of the newer designed ones.
    dion
    '00 M roadster, modded
    '98 SVT Contour, lots of mods
    '04 Sienna XLE LTD AWD
    '08 MB C300 Sport, P1, 18's
    Tamiya TA05, Evolution IV MS, CR-01
    Kyosho MP777 SP2
    Losi BK2 and MRC
    Traxxas Slash, hopped-up.
    newest toy is the Tamiya TRF801XT

  19. #19
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    The rattling I've experienced with my D/A TCK setup seems to be coming more from the rear shocks. From what I remember reading, rattling was more common in the rear with the Z4 setup too.
    Pani
    2001 Laguna Seca Blue M Coupe

  20. #20
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    The only noise I have ever heard from my TCK D/A is an occasional squeak coming from the front drivers side. Its only sometimes on low speed shock motion like backing out of a driveway where it meets the road.

    I've never hear spring pop, bang, rattle or anything else.
    -Jason

    Weekend Car

    '99 Boston Green M Roadster - intake, M50 manifold, schrick cams, magnaflow exhaust, TCK D/A Coilovers 500/600, RD front bar, ltw flywheel & clutch, harddog rollbar, schroth harnesses, zionsville radiator, S54 oil cooler, stewart pump, etc ..... ~245rwhp

  21. #21
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    I guess I should clarify my low speed sounds. The sounds from my car are most noticeable in the parking structure at work, with me doing less than 10mph. The structures floor is very wavy/bumpy. I don't get the same sounds when I'm driving down my street. The spring pop only occurs when I'm doing the same speed or less and turning the wheel, like starting from or coming to a stop and turning the wheel at the same time. This is all up front. I don't notice any sounds coming from the rear, but maybe owning a Roady makes a difference since we normally have more noise to begin with?

    The threads that I've read here and on bimmerfest.com state very similiar things to what I've been experiencing. I will just have to investigate my sounds by taking the front-end apart the next chance I get and see what is (if anything is) loose and tighten it all up again.
    dion
    '00 M roadster, modded
    '98 SVT Contour, lots of mods
    '04 Sienna XLE LTD AWD
    '08 MB C300 Sport, P1, 18's
    Tamiya TA05, Evolution IV MS, CR-01
    Kyosho MP777 SP2
    Losi BK2 and MRC
    Traxxas Slash, hopped-up.
    newest toy is the Tamiya TRF801XT

  22. #22
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    My buds Z4 MC does this too (rattle sound)and more noticeable in the rear. I was told that it's normal, specially for the first gen. Perhaps he will chime in to shed some light into this matter.
    The search box is awesome..try it!


  23. #23
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    Have even more miles on it now and dont have any sounds at all anymore, quiet as stock.

    Very happy with the setup, feels (and sounds) great.

  24. #24
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    Yeah my DAs don't make any noise except on a cold day. I usually hear it in the rear but it goes away after warming up. When they were first installed back in '05 the rear knocking was constant but went away after ~2k miles, IIRC.


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