M3 Exhaust Headers onto M50

[BrumBrum]

hi guys hoping you can help

ive got a 92 non vanos 325i
ive been offered some Euro S54 (eg E46 M3) headers.
now i know that the euro S50 headers will with a bit of effort fit an M50, but does anyone know if the S54 ones can likewise be fitted ?

[downeaster1]

S54 headers won't bolt up to a M50.
S50 headers will though...not too sure about S52 headers, but I would think so.

[thedude60126]

S50 and S52 headers should both bolt up fine

[Nataliator]

s50 headers are the same as m50 headers...no point for this. m52 headers and s52 headers are also the same, but are made from tubular steel rather than cast, which should be a better flow for you.

You do however need to modify m52/s52 headers to work with your obd1 ie plug the o2 sensor holes and weld the secondary air pump channels shut.

[downeaster1]

s50 headers are the same as m50 headers...no point for this. m52 headers and s52 headers are also the same, but are made from tubular steel rather than cast, which should be a better flow for you.

You do however need to modify m52/s52 headers to work with your obd1 ie plug the o2 sensor holes and weld the secondary air pump channels shut.

I did not know this. huh. Learn something new every day hah

[atlantisvip]

I'm not sure about the 95 m3 headers being same as M50..

[Nataliator]

I'm not sure about the 95 m3 headers being same as M50..

Real-OEM.com link to obd1 m3 manifold:

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...87&hg=11&fg=50

Real-OEM.com link to 325i manifold

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...87&hg=11&fg=50

part numbers are identical.

[BrumBrum]

s50 headers are the same as m50 headers...no point for this.

euro s50 headers are NOT the same as M50 ones,

theyre a proper tubular manifold - and can with some samll modifications be bolted up to an M50/52

hence me wondering if euro S54 (again tubular) can also mate up to an M50 or M52 head

[Nataliator]

euro s50 headers are NOT the same as M50 ones,

theyre a proper tubular manifold - and can with some samll modifications be bolted up to an M50/52

hence me wondering if euro S54 (again tubular) can also mate up to an M50 or M52 head

yes i was referring to US spec manifolds. the Euro Spec s50 is a much better motor all around.

edit: upon inspection on real oem, s54 manifolds use a 3 bolt pattern to bolt to the block while m50/52 and s50/52 feature a 4 bolt pattern. looks like your SOL.

[BrumBrum]

yes i was referring to US spec manifolds. the Euro Spec s50 is a much better motor all around.

ah crossed wires.
i was talking euro versions (as specified in my initial post)

edit: upon inspection on real oem, s54 manifolds use a 3 bolt pattern to bolt to the block while m50/52 and s50/52 feature a 4 bolt pattern. looks like your SOL.

oh well - still, saves me buying something i cant use.
i'll hunt down some euro S50 ones
many thanks for the advice.

[Nataliator]

I wanted to bump this thread to speak on some of the issues i stumbled upon while I was swapping my manifolds last night.

This was incredibly easy with the transmission out of the car! To be honest, I am not sure how big of a PITA it would have been if I was trying to swap my m50 manifolds with s52 manifolds with the tranny still bolted up. If anyone is considering doing this - Consider doing it during ur next clutch/tranny swap or if you have the ability to drop the trans easily. Onto the point:

When I unbolted my m50 manifolds, I compared them to the s52 manifolds, and its important to note, that the s52 flanges that bolt to the motor are CONSIDERABLY thinner than the stock m50 flanges. This creates a problem for me when I went to bolt the new manifolds to the block. You see, the nuts that held on the manifolds were either rusted to the bolts or put in with loctite so that parts #7 and the bolt/stud that nut #7 screws onto (that's supposed to protrude from the block) came out as one piece during removal!:


The issue is this: I did some trial and error and found that when you tighten the nut/bolt assembly back to the block, the stud reaches the end of its tread before the nut makes contact with the manifold flange. Not good!

So the tip is: Make sure your 11mm socket is on the nut straight, make it a deep socket (as the bolt will start to naturally push the std socket off the nut as you get tighter) and give it a bit of hell. The nut will break loose from the bolt and you will begin tightening the nut on the bolt, instead of tightening the bolt into the block. Once complete - you will find the nuts are seated firmly against the thinner s52 manifold flanges, and your gasket should be seated nice and tight between there.

I just wanted to post this information up for anyone who searches and comes up blank as I did in case the studs come out with the nuts during the uninstall of the manifolds. Hope this helps someone!

I will report back once I put everything back together and get back in the e36 to tell you guys if it sounds better/feels stronger!

-Steve

[atlantisvip]

DAMN ! I wanna do this so bad. I wonder if there would be any noticeable difference in sound/performance on a non vanos.. It probably will be a PITA to do this .. Lucky you had the tranny out.. Not too many get that luxury.. I'll be sure to soak the nuts/bolts over night with a good lubricant too. Thanks for the heads up

[NY Bimmers]

i have s52 headers if anyone wants them.....make me an offer.

[atlantisvip]

i have s52 headers if anyone wants them.....make me an offer.

ebay much ?

[Nataliator]

I will report back once I put everything back together and get back in the e36 to tell you guys if it sounds better/feels stronger!

-Steve

Wanted to Update: Finally got the car running again and have been driving alot the past couple of days. I can certainly hear a difference with these manifolds installed. It seems much smoother, and a bit deeper as well under acceleration. It is worth noting that I feel as if my under-hood temp has increased. This might just be all in my head because I haven't driven the car in a month or because I was driving a little hard...I don't have any evidence of the temp. increase...

As far as the power increase, I don't know what I feel. I know I saved some weight, and should have better flow, but the difference is more in my ears than the seat of my pants.. though maybe I was just used to the leap I took from the cams, so this smaller increase in power wasn't noticeable to me. I would imagine the gain from these is greater with more supporting mods. (Cams probably benefit from this more than stock, etc)

That said, I am still glad I did this mod, it was cheap and easy, and certainly makes the car sound better. For anyone who wants to do this, if you have access to a welder, you can get away with this mod for under $100 and some wrench time, it's worth it.

[kanovic]

i got a set im selling includes new bolts, studs, gaskets, o2 plugs, and the egr already welded...
http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1248279