Starter removal and installation 530i 2003

[josemg]

Since I did a research and didn't get any related thread about starters, I've decided to share my past experience replacing one.

Sorry, no pictures during this job. I was in an emergency repair, so, there will be instructions only at this time.

1. First thing, disconnect the battery terminals.

2. Take off the air filter box by removing one bolt attachet to the chassis bay. Also, you have to remove the maf sensor and remove the air hoses, just before the maf sensor (the last one is not necessary), and the canister hose (on top of the air hose going to the throttle).

3. Once the filter box and hoses have been removed, proceed to remove the starter cables. There are 2 electrical power cables, one from the battery and one for the extension that goes to the intake (jump start point). The other remaining cables are the ignition cable which you need to use a 10mm open wrench and another cable (which I guess is for the permissive from the DME or the EWS system). This last cable you can take it off after loosening the starter due to the tight space available.

4. The funny part. Making some space after the throttle hose and the strut frame you'll have some space available to fit the rachet and the female torx E12 socket and remove the 2 bolts attaching the starter to the transmission housing bell.

This is the rachet I got for the job and it got paid by itself. Just perfect fit for the job.

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=96369

Also, I used a short extension for the rachet.

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...temnumber=5933


Don't worry about falling starters, the starter will not fall down. The worst part will be detaching the starter from the housing. There is a dowel pin holding the starter in place just behind the solenoid, so you need to pry the starter out using a 13mm or 14mm wrench as a pry bar.

The starter is kind of tight, but eventually will come out. Once start coming out, you have to change the wrench due the gap created between starter and housing.

5. Once the starter is out of the dowel pin, you have to be careful because there is still the last cable connected. The starter weights about 6-7 lbs. Remove the remain nut and remove the last cable connected. Don't worry about messing cables around. Straight forward, the cables are different sizes, so they can't be crossed over.

6. Start twisting around the starter until it comes out.

Installation is the same as reversal.

The starter I used is a little bit shorter and lighter, but as ETK is interchangeable with a newer model such as 2004-2005 5Series and so many others.

The old part number I had installed was 12-41-1-740-374 and the newer starter is 12-41-7-515-396.

7. After fitting the starter under the intake manifold, install the small cable, then align the starter within the dowel pin and start tightening the bolts in.

8. Once the starter is aligned and kind of tighted, install the remaining cables starting with the second ignition cable, the the battery cables (2 cables).

9. Using a groove joint plier (adjustable plier), start clamping the starter, tight the bolts, clamp, tight, and so on, until you reach the end. The top bolt can be reached behind the intake manifold, while the bottom bolt can be reached in between the throttle body hoses and the strut chassis.

10. After finishing the starter installation, connect back the battery terminal and give it a try.

And, that is all. It took me about 4 hours completing this job, but expect to work on this one about 4-5 hours. With an instruction set could be done in 3 hrs.

I hope somebody get some benefit I didn't have and help others in the task of replacing the starter on a E39 530i.

[josemg]

Quick update...

Starter didn't work. It left me on the road the 2nd day. So I started the troubleshooting process with it.

I ran a remote cable going to the solenoid intended to be used only under emergencies like almost every day.

Anyway, the solution was simple, use a hammer with it. The starter was showing exactly the same problem as the old one, so I removed and installed the old one back again. It work for a day, then, it kept jamming from time to time. I started using the temporary cable and a hammer at the same time until the next starter.

For a particular reason, I replaced the ignition switch, which improve the cranking effort, but still the same problem. Once I received the 2nd starter, I just installed it and problem solved. The 1st starter I received was not working properly. The 2nd starter is working as it was intended, so I guess I'll be removing the temporary cable and ship the core back to the store for a core refund.

Further inspection in the ignition switch showed that one of the contacts was bent and burnt. I guess it was responsible for the No Start Fault.

[Bonswa]

good luck man. i've experienced and read of many others who have replaced the starter when they have ignition problems. they, including myself, wasn't so pleased with the outcome. in my case, the key was bad. When i purchased my starter from BMW, my friend in parts told me that they RARELY have starters replaced at the dealer. he said most of the time it's something else.

sucks, because on any other make of car, when you have starter problems, it's either the ignition switch or starter. with our cars, you've got an antenna ring, ews, dozen relays, this, and that. sucks.

let us know what ends up solving your problem completely.

[Bill]

Next time go in from the bottom (hopefully there isn't a next time) its much easier then all you went through. While your in there its nice to use a wire wheel / sand paper to clean up that dowel pin so the starter doesn't get jammed up on install.

btw... what brand did you buy?

[josemg]

I didn't went from the bottom for a few reasons, and once I analized how to do it, I found out that removing the driver a/c filter housing and taking off the air duct, there a lot of space to get into both bolts without suffering under the car. Also, a 10mm wrench will do the trick without using any kind of extension, flex wrench, etc. Believe me, you can call me Mr. Starter after this experience. I took me about 1.5 hrs to take the old and put the new back and re-install all the plastic covers and air filter, etc.

Unfortunately, it was a Bosch starter. It was 1 in a 1,000,000, but aparently came defective from factory.

I had my doubts with the starter after reading a few documents and how the EWS works and so on, but in my particular case the starter was trying to engage. You can actually hear the solenoid ticking (engaging), but not spinning at all. So I got a meter, checked voltage going to starter and it was ok. Then I got doubts with the battery. I verified the battery in an autoparts and it became perfect. 900 CCA. So I took the decision of replacing the 1st starter with the 2nd one, which up to now, it's working. Actually, today I sent the core back to the autoparts for a core refund.

At least it wasn't that bad as a previous car I had. I replaced the starter with remanufactured ones in that Toyota like 3 consecutive times within a month or so, changed the battery cables, the battery to alternator cable, checked the ignition cable from switch to starter, including relay. Installed a straight cable from battery to the solenoid. Anyway, I never solved the dilemma. The car just refused to start once the electric fan was energized. Once the fan got off, the car started as usual.

[josemg]

Well, well, well. It seems that my car got cursed. Once again, in less than a month, I'm suffering from startinus virus. Yes, virus, because it comes and goes. The worst thing is that I know that the starter is bad, the starter is under warranty, but unfortunately, it takes time, specially when the starter comes from a warehouse located in CA, and the car is located in FL...

Anyway, I've initiated communication once again with the vendor and also requested some support. Let's see what happened.

[Bonswa]

I'm still pulling for a key replacement. I've been through the exact same thing as you, and some. I replaced all relays, fuses, bench tested the starters. I was about to replace the EWS. instead, i replaced the Key. No problemo.

[josemg]

I've bench tested the starter and it seems the solenoid magnet was not strong enough to pull the piston inside. And suddenly, boom, started working super fine. I suspect that the solenoid is bad, because I tested the starter motor and it works like a charm, nor the solenoid. There is a plunger inside which makes the source pass from the battery terminal to the motor terminal. Once you release just a tad of pressure inside of the solenoid pluger, it deactivates the internal switch, and for instance it will not crank. By the way, the solenoid is sealed and, for further inspection, I've to destroy the solenoid (which is not going to happen due warranty).

I hooked up a grounding cable from one of the solenoid nut into the grounding chassis point next to the strut mount, just in case the starter is getting for some reason loose and is also loosing the ground when try to start.

Let's see how it works.

[energizedmortal]

I've bench tested the starter and it seems the solenoid magnet was not strong enough to pull the piston inside. And suddenly, boom, started working super fine. I suspect that the solenoid is bad, because I tested the starter motor and it works like a charm, nor the solenoid. There is a plunger inside which makes the source pass from the battery terminal to the motor terminal. Once you release just a tad of pressure inside of the solenoid pluger, it deactivates the internal switch, and for instance it will not crank. By the way, the solenoid is sealed and, for further inspection, I've to destroy the solenoid (which is not going to happen due warranty).

I hooked up a grounding cable from one of the solenoid nut into the grounding chassis point next to the strut mount, just in case the starter is getting for some reason loose and is also loosing the ground when try to start.

Let's see how it works.

I know this was a long time ago but thanks for instructions. This is great that the starter can be removed on the m54 without lifting the car or removing the manifold. My original starter is approaching 200,000 miles, good to know that I can replace it myself if need be. Did you ever figure out your starting issue?

[Stück]

Damn 4 hours to R&R the starter?

I had to change mine a couple months ago and did the job in about 20 minutes from the top after driving on the highway for a half hour so everything was good and hot as hell.