so my key fob stopped working. any idea where can i cheap battery and how to replace it? please help
thanks
If it's an updated key, you cant change the battery... and i's likely not he problem.. maybe a fuse is out?
UNDER CONSTRUCTION
- 2000 528i Sport -
Got any questions about my car? Feel free to PM me!
i dont see any screws.
where can i find the fuse to check this problem?
When my center locking fuse went out, my key would still manually arm the alarm, but the remote fuctions didnt work.
The fuse for my e39 was located behind the drivers side c pillar, under the trim.
UNDER CONSTRUCTION
- 2000 528i Sport -
Got any questions about my car? Feel free to PM me!
look up in Bentley or other where the central locking fuses are... on my 540 one was in the trunk over the battery... it was blown. The reason it was blown is the fuel door lock actuator is on the same fuse... that actuator has a failure mode that over loads the circuit - if you see the fuse blown - replace the fuse and see how long it lasts. You may find that the fuel door lock doesn't work. If this is the case replace the actuator. This is likely to fix both issues.
1999 328i manual (son's car, I work on it)
1989 911 manual (my "fun" car)
1995 Suburban (my commuter)
That battery charges itself while in the ignition. If you dont have a screw, you've got the new style key. it is possible that the battery isnt holding a charge, but not likely. From what i've read in other threads, that fuse is the culprit majority of the time.
hcoles is right. the fuse should be above your battery in the trunk. its fuse number 53. the actual unit is behind the drivers side C-pillar, but the fuse is not.
Most guys have found that the fuse is blown. Just check all of your fuses while you're back there, but you should find that the one for the central locking is blown.
Blacksapphire posted this in another thread:
-You can replace the battery. In fact, I bought one in anticipation of the inevitable.
-Your key won't look as pretty when you're done but it's better than throwing it away.
-For the late model diamond shaped keys, here is the battery you need (if you feel adventurous):
-1 658-VL2020-1HF
-Panasonic VL Lithium
-3V 20mAH 2 PIN HORZ
-Price is $4.72 from Mouser electronics. Cheers.
EDIT: haha, i just realized that the information i used came from hcoles old thread about this problem.
My key fob for my 2000 E39 528i stopped working today. I’ve had the car for 7 years. There have been times when the key fob wouldn't work. Why? I don't know. Maybe RF interference or simply German engineering.
Today... different story. The key fob simply doesn't work. At all. GAST!!! Actually had to use the key to unlock/lock/disarm/arm. Being that my other key got stolen, I don't want to fork over $150-$200 for a new one.
I found the answer. Or, a better explanation, this solution worked for me. I looked on all the different forums and didn't find a viable solution. Google found the answer for me, so here it is.
PLEASE NOTE!!! The site where I found the solution offered other options to the problem as well, so CHECK IT OUT BEFORE YOU ATTEMPT TO DO WHAT I DID!!!!
This is what worked for me:
1. Turn key to position 1 five times very quickly
2. Remove key
3. Hold unlock button then press lock button 3 times, release unlock button.
4. If you have another key do the same button pressing within 30 seconds
5. Turn on ignition to finalize
Apparently I can’t post the website link since I don’t post frequently. What a pain in the butt. So here’s all the options available.
To carry out this procedure you need to have one working key and one key which requires programming. Please read on if you do not have a working key as this is also covered further down. It may help sometimes to hold the key close to the rear view mirror as this is where the sensor is located in most models.
1. With both keys, get in the car and close all windows and doors.
2. Put working key into the ignition and turn to position 1 (the accessories should turn on)
3. Turn the key back to position 0 and take the key out of the ignition.
4. Using the working key, hold down the unlock button, press the BMW logo (lock button) 3 times, and release the unlock button. Doors should lock and unlock.
5. With the new key, hold down the unlock button and press the BMW logo (lock button) 3 times and let go of the unlock button. Doors should lock and unlock and you're done!!
Alternate Procedure:
1. Switch ignition on and off within 5 seconds, with all doors closed.
2. Take key out of ignition and press unlock button. Hold unlock button whilst pressing the lock button 3 times, all within 10 seconds.
3. Release unlock button.
4. The system recognises re-programming by locking and immediately unlocking the doors.
5. You have to do your other keys within 30 seconds after reprogramming your first key by following steps 2,3 & 4 only.
Alternate procedure if above doesn't work or if you do not have a working remote:
1. Turn key to position 1 five times very quickly
2. Remove key
3. Hold unlock button then press lock button 3 times, release unlock button.
4. If you have another key do the same button pressing within 30 seconds
5. Turn on ignition to finalize
Older 3 Button Key (E36, E38, E39)
Remote Key Re-Initialise - If a key fails to operate remotely, it will have to be re-initialised (all keys in sequence at the same time)
1. Get in and close all doors
2. Turn the ignition on & off quickly (no more than 5 seconds) to start the process. Next action must take place within 30 seconds
3. First key - hold down button #2 (unlock - on the bottom left with the key blade pointing up) while striking button #1 (lock - the BMW logo) three times. Release button #2. This should be confirmed by door lock operation.
4. If you have more than 1 key then you need to repeat for the other keys within 30 seconds of first or they will be rendered inactive.
5. After last key then cycle the ignition on/off to finalise the process (it is not necessary to start the engine).
Both keys should now have new randomly selected security code words - assigned by the car's system.
Those codes will be continuously incremented within the new sequence each time you hit a button. It is when they get out of sequence with the car that they loose the capability to be recognised and you then have to do this again.
This occurs when you take longer than 1 minute changing the battery, or if you hit the buttons more than 1000 times when it is out of range of the car.
Last edited by hyperlite91193; 11-24-2008 at 05:29 PM. Reason: Grammer
many thanks for your information. I had the same problem and its now resolved. I tried to bring life back to my 2nd key but failed.
However 1 is good enough, many thanks.
Great stuff
smartmart1,
One of the benefits of the forums besides instant help on immediate issues, is getting to learn from other's mistakes on the forums. One of the big mistakes you can make with these cars is to have only one key.
What ever you do, get a second key working or you may end up with a huge headache later.
Last edited by jamesdc4; 07-01-2009 at 05:13 PM.
I really need to buy a second key. Only one of mine is working. The second one is dead. It will only start the car if I put it in the ignition within 30 seconds of removing the working key. Can't program it either. $250 for a key is $$$$$ though. I mean....it's just a KEY.
$250??? mine was $175 from the dealer. thats the diamond key.
Hi, I just joined the BMW club this weekend when I purchased a used 2004 325i. I have the problem that this thread deals with. I received 2 keys, one works both manually and remotely, the other works manually but not remtely. I thought there was a battery to change but that is apparently not the case or probably not the problem. Since my second key works manually is it out of sequence for the remote function and I should reprogram the keys so both will then work? Or is the second key battery bad bad/weak and will be toast? Any guidance?
Thanks in advance, dcay
Have you followed the instructions in your owners manual and tried to charge-up the 2nd key? You may not be able to change the battery...but you should use your 2nd key every now and then to keep it charged up. Again, Try using the 2nd key for a week and then see if it still has the programming...or you can reinitialize (if the battery charges up).
BTW...you do know that this is a FIVE SERIES forum, right?
Become a BMW CCA member! Click HERE to join and feel free to use my BMW CCA member #191509 as a referral.
2015 650ix GC (Moonstone/Cohiba Brown) <<~>> 2014 X5 50i (Space Gray/Mocha)
On my 2000 528i, my symptoms were key FOB stopped working, so did the auto door lock feature. Having locked the doors using the manual door key locking (key in physical lock), I checked to see if the fuel door was also locked; it was not. Problem was blown fuse due to faulty fuel door actuator (same circuit). I replaced the fuse, it blew again on first re-lock. I've disconnected the fuel door lock actuator, replaced the fuse again, and things seem to be working. This will get me going while I await delivery of a new fuel door lock actuator.
When I bought my E39, it came with one remote key, and it barely worked. The red LED was very faint when I pressed the buttons, and didn't always work. I gently pried off the little plastic strip on the back of the key with a flat-head jeweler's screwdriver, removed the two Phillips screws that hold the key case together, and bought a replacement battery from Wallgreen's. It works perfectly now, without any need to re-program or re-initialize or anything like that. However, reading this thread, I realize now that I have an issue with my fuel door, since it never locks. . . Something else to look into I guess.
I also had another "Master" key made at the dealership, which set me back about $110, and unlocks the doors, trunk and glove box, but has no remote functions. It does, however, have a cool LED flashlight built into it that lights up when you press the BMW logo, and I wish my remote key had that function. . .
Glad I found your post! All other posts I read in various forums said to just put the key in position one only one time. I pulled the fuse after that and tested it with the ohm meter. Fuse was good. Gas lid locked when doors did, interior lights came on when I opened doors with key from outside, central locks worked with button inside car and interior lights responded appropriately. I was baffled and starting to think I had to cut the key open or have someone else look at it until I found your post. 5x was the magic on the wife's 2003 BMW 530i. Happy wife, happy life!
So I just got my E39 a few weeks ago and the keyless entry stopped working. I got the second key to try it and that one didn't work either. I followed these instructions and got the first key to work great, but when I went to program the second key, it doesn't want to work. I don't know if this second key had ever worked before I bought the car since it was given to me on the same ring as the valet key, but the key will lock and arm the alarm if I lock it manually through the driver door. From what I've read, I have the new style key that cannot have the battery changed, and its supposed to charge through the ignition. So I'm hoping that the second key is simply dead, but how do I charge it? Can I just leave it in the ignition for a few hours or does the car have to be running in order to charge the key battery?
It takes up to 30 hours to recharge a fully discharged remote key. The key only charges when the ignition is on. So driving around town will charge the key...or if you have a battery charger...you can hook it up to the jump start terminals in the engine bay...then leave the ignition in position 1 overnight. This way you won't drain the car's battery...while at the same time you're recharging the key's battery.
Another way to recharge the key's battery is if you have an electric toothbrush (like the Sonic) that has an induction charger...you can set the remote key near or on the induction charger for 30 hours.
TIP: KL R = ignition position 1
Last edited by Qsilver7; 01-25-2015 at 01:53 PM.
Become a BMW CCA member! Click HERE to join and feel free to use my BMW CCA member #191509 as a referral.
2015 650ix GC (Moonstone/Cohiba Brown) <<~>> 2014 X5 50i (Space Gray/Mocha)
It could be that the battery itself has stopped working. These cars are almost 20 years old and these parts just simply fail. I ended up buying a new one from the dealership as my . My old one did the same thing as yours.
- - - Updated - - -
Yeah what quicksilver said
Replace battery, if you have diamond shape key, you need to use a utility knife to carefully cut it open, the battery is VL2020 rechargeable, http://www.ebay.com/itm/BMW-Key-Fob-...-/270867834575
Bookmarks