Followed the procedure in this thread, but initially I could not get the car into learning mode. My mistake was that I was performing Step 7 (Cycle from the off position to the (“almost start” ) too slowly. On the second attempt I performed step 7 quickly and the car chirped twice and went into learning mode! I followed the remaining steps and my replacement fob is now programmed and works perfectly.
Last edited by DonM3Z; 07-26-2013 at 09:25 PM.
I replaced the battery in my fob. I'm following the procedure and it puts the car into learning mode(chirps, etc.) but my remote is not working. Also, the LED on the fob is on all the time and I'm guessing it shouldn't be. Does anyone have a solution or experience with the problem?
SixFix,
If the light on your remote is on all the time, then it's probably broken. I had the same issue with my old remote where the red light would stay on constantly and afterwards I could not disarm the car. I just purchased a replacement remote on Ebay which worked great!
Has anyone figured out how to correct their fob so the tiny red light isn't always on?
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I dissasembled the 2 main screws and the 3 tiny screws on the circuit board. I cleaned it thoroughly and sometimes the light will stay on but sometimes i will only turn on when I press the buttons ( which is what I want ). It's too unreliable and still won't work when I tried to program it with my 97' 328i.
As I dissasembled it I noticed that they use a plastic casing for the board and the buttons. I think that is the main source of the problem. But I will wait to see if others have engineered a way to fix it before I start re-modeling this fob
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RESOLVED RED LIGHT CONSTANT ON ISSUE!
So it was a mechanically engineered problem the whole time. I just removed the plastic grey buttons (forever) and the rubber casing no longer gets stuck. The downside is that I have to put my finger in the fob and touch the rubber casing... you're the only one that needs to know ! I'm very satisfied because I saved myself $90 that it would have cost for a new key-less entry fob! Hopefully this helps! There was a ton of gook from the fob that I cleaned with ear swabbies, hopefully if you're having the same problem- it might just be some gook in the button!
Worked great! Thanks so much!
Great help. Must say though, someone should add somewhere that after cycling the keys five times, that you need to leave the ignition in the off position. I spent like ten minutes trying to program my key before realizing that my key had to be in the off position.
my FOB is the only one button model, I have a 325is 1992. I have a couple extra FOB's I have got on eBay. I wonder if this step by step works with earlier models like mine with only one button. Thanks in advance, I think I want to try it, because right now, I have only one in working order and I am scared that it stops working.
Last edited by ivantxu; 09-16-2014 at 01:42 AM.
Glad to see this thread bumped up! I got a '99 328ic E36 a couple of months ago & the PO never used his 2-Button Remote (like in the pic) but gave it to me with the car. I finally tried programming this thing this morning & could not get it to work. It would only "chirp" when I would "disarm" the alarm but it wouldn't Lock/Unlock the doors. The LED light does come on if I hit either button but it's not the brightest. I'm going to try to first replace the Battery & give it another shot. What's the cost to replace the remote (my only one) if it is a bad remote? I could really care less if the alarm works or not (live in a small country town) but really want the Keyless Entry if I can get it to work.
Thanks!
Those instructions are wrong. The ones in this thread will work
http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...2#post19365432
For all the info you'll need on the US spec e36 alarm system.....http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...s-Alarm-Thread
Last edited by flyfishvt; 09-18-2014 at 08:38 AM.
Bleed your cooling system http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1709482The ULTIMATE OEM Alarm/Keyless thread http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1792200
At some point you need to remove the key from the ignition. That should really be Step 14.
This was a huge piece of information that helped me out. For the last 3 years or so my key FOB case was falling apart, cracked screw holes, loose fitting, it was havoc. All I needed was a case but couldn't find one without having to buy a complete alarm system. Knowing that Subaru also had the same case, managed to find a replacement in under 3 minutes on eBay. Thank you for this information.
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