Yes, I searched (common problems, title) and got a few threads that really point out to all the problems.
I have an E36 I will be selling soon and I plan to get an E46. I learned a lot of lessons after I got the E36 and I will not make the same mistakes with my next purchase.
Anyone is a former E36 owner, how does your E46 compare to E36 in terms of reliability?
I know the window regulators, radiator and in some cases vanos like to crap out. Oh, and not to forget the subframe issue .
Anything else? Which models are affected faulty vanos?
Thanks in advance.
oil sensor forsure ! Final Stage Unit after 100K miles...
I just upgraded from an E36 (1995 318i) to an E46 (2001 330i).
The cars pretty much handle the same; fun way. The suspension on the E46 is just as stiff and you will feel every bump on the road. The steering is much more improved and tighter on the E46. Then again my E46 has almost no miles on it at 37k and is still new compared to my 167,000 mile driven E36.
Quality-wise the E46 is definately more luxurious on the inside, but still very austere and simple (I like that). The dash is also more laid back away from the driverand more spacious unlike the dash on the E36 where everything comes out towards the driver (radio, ac controls, etc...).
The leather quality is better on the E46, but the non-sport seats are more flatter and slippy.
The only problems I'm having is that the previous owner most likely replaced the passenger side regulator at some point and who ever did it did not replaced the weather
seal correctly so I've been getting water leaking into the cabin when it rains overnight.
As of now my E46 is running fine and the only thing I can see going wrong is probably the window regulator thingy.
As for Consumer Reports the E46 main trouble spots are;
ENGINE COOLING: Most likely water pump failure that is common among the 3 series. Fairly easy DIY fix costing no more than $100.
CLIMATE SYSTEM: Most likely the Auto Climate Control Head Unit that tends to go bad. Easy to replace since you can just buy a new Head Unit online for as little as $50.
SUSPENSION: Because it is firm and takes every bump and pot hole harshly. Its basically only a matter of miles (100k+) before the wear and tear require control arm and tie rod replacement. This is a normalty on most BMWs due to the stiff, "road-feel" suspension.
BODY HARDWARE: Most likey the Window Regulator thingy that everyone seems to have replaced, is replacing or will have to replace. Also the Moon roof sunshade slider tends to fall off it's tracks. Both of these are no biggie and quick fixes.
AUDIO SYSTEM: If you don't have the HK get ready for possible speaker rattles and low sound quality. Even the HK sound quality will dissappoint most audiophiles. Uhm...most owners just upgrade these components so I wouldn't say it is a biggie.
FUEL SYSTEM: Fuel pump failure and poor filter maintanence will most likely hassle you after 100k miles if your car was not well taken car of. Both are possible DIY fixes and no biggie.
ELECTRICAL: Don't know what this means. When it comes to electrical it can mean anything from simple to complex. I don't forsee any issues other than battery/alternator maintence and check ups.
Last edited by delmarco; 10-05-2008 at 06:16 PM.
That's a pretty clear list... good stuff. I have an 06 330ci and I guess disappointed is a good word for the Sound System... I traded in an 07 Maxima with the Bose, and that's the only thing I miss from it... the pimp-ness of the BMW and the Convertible make up for it, but with all that BMW does for the cars, its fascinating that the stereo is so disappointing. I took it to the dealer and they said it sounded normal. I thought it sounded blown and weird... will replace once warranty expires... at 32k now, 18k to go...
This may help you out: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...d.php?t=608470
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The window thingy is not mentioned.
Stay in school...fishes do.
rear subframe tears, coolant tank cracking close to 100k (this is when you should change tstat, water pump, and belts if needed, coolant), hesitation between 2,500-3,000 RPMS (software upgrade required), VANOS seals (causes rough cold starts)
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well sooner or later your windshield washer pump will be gone also
My 528 is a German Tank..
My 2008 Chihuahua is Blue deal with it
Always teaching now getting paid for it.
well you are gonna get a yellow oil light coming on and off on the screen and you will freak out you have low oil, but u don't than u will start checking your oil every time u start your car.
Final Stage Unit is for your A/C or lets say it your blower. well it ususally does that in summer time but u never known. its like 53$ for the part but its in a nasty place to replace it
Thanks all for the replies, great responses!
Window regulators or sensors would be ok, but subframe issues? yikes
I did the subframe reinforcement on my 325i, it was a PITA. I think the rear suspensions on E46s are more complicated.
And for the ride quality, I'm not a fan on stiff suspension. I don't like feeling every crack or hole on the road (my e36 does this). Is there any suspension to fix this without lowering the car?
Although more refined, most won't admit that the e46 still is the type of car, and was designed to be so, a stiff riding car where you feel every nick in the road. For a smooth ride get a 5 or a 7. Believe me, I've tried many struts and shocks, OEM non sports are the "softest" springs. The suspension was not designed for a smooth ride. The e46 rear suspension is not really anymore complicated, there's a trailing arm, camber arm, upper srping arm, sway bar and a shock, that makes it a 3 link system, which is very simple. Now the e90s, has a nice 5 link setup, very precise.
My beloved, 2000 323i, Loaded, h/k, sport/premium, Z3 Short shifter, edead all over, NHT1259 Free air, bilsteins HDs, two tone cardinal red leather on doors. Sold
My German bricks: 1988 300TE Estate E-Class, 1993 S Class 500SEL, in a class of it's own, The "Beast", and a 2002 BMW 540iA, My daily, lots of fun .-BMW Service Technician
I have had to change out my tensioners on the engine, started to make noise like the bearings were out, so just changed out all of them and the belts at 65k
I work in auto repair garage so me and dad did everything ourselves. Took about 8 hours overall.
The subframe cracked thanks to the potholes after winter and started making "thump* noises whenever I changed gears.
It was not easy at all. All that welding and rubberized asphalt burning .
I think I may have the Oil Level switch problem as mentioned above< but I'll Post that question separately, Also I have had to replace the A/C Blower Motor Switch Resistor (Final Stage Unit)
My worst problem w/ this car...It is a magnet for hit and runs.
It has been hit twice in the left Rear Quarter panel, Then wifey dinged up the same spot, plus the rear bumper , So I had it fixed. 2 months later, Hit & Run in L/F Frender. Now damage to the rear bumper again...wifey dinged it again
I purchased an E46 with 157K miles on it earlier this year. The sway bars had just been replaced along with some fresh tires. Since my purchase in April I have thoroughly enjoyed the car, it is my first BMW. I just had the rear brakes redone including rotors, pads and sensors, along with a couple common oil leaks in the oil filter housing and gasket valve cover replaced. I had my belts replaced just in time, they were cracked badly. A new washer fluid pump, the original was dead. All of this in total set me back about $800. Aside from brakes and oil problems everything else I did myself. If kept up regularly, these cars will go forever.
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