no coast punk
05-06-2008, 02:17 PM
I've decided to re-prioritize a few things in my life. As much as I love my RS I just don't have the time that is needed to devote to making it totally super sick again. Too much time making fast cars for the rest of you people.
I've had my RS for many many years now, used up quite a few expensive parts and had quite a bit of fun. Time to move on. I want to play with bikes more this year.
I have the following sitting on a shelf right now out of the car that I'm willing to part with immediately:
GC specific Tein HG coilovers. Brand New Never installed. $2000(try and find a set in stock anywhere in the country, normally this is a 2-3 month special order japan part. Find a set in stock anywhere in the country on a new set and I'll match the price)
BRAND NEW Quaife R160 LSD $1,100. (right now it's not installed, I have a spare diff. housing for this with a 3.9 ring and pinion. Bring me a ring and pinion of any other ratio and I'll install it. This part can be made to work with just about any R160 Subaru with the correct axle parts)
Koyo GC Radiator. Used. Pretty good condition. Comes with Samco hoses. $200
I am either going to sell the car whole, or part it out IF somebody will buy the bare shell for $2,000. NO PARTING OUT UNLESS SOMEONE BUYS THE SHELL.
Details:
1998 Impreza 2.5RS coupe. Rally blue pearl. Body is so-so. It's been pretty thrashed through many winters. A few small dings in both front fenders that PDR could fix. If someone buys the complete car I will take care of as much PDR work as possible before the sale. Windshield has a crack that can't be noticed (below the wiper resting spot). The right rear quarter panel was hit in a parking lot. I never had it fixed figuring I'd probably do worse damage during a track day at some point. The body is really not too bad. If the car is to be re-painted the prep. process will take care of 99% of whatever body work the car needs. All the stuff is still in the car for A/C to work minus two lines and a compressor (never got around to removing the condenser/evaporator, AC worked when I removed that stuff). All of the wheel bearings are nice and tight. Replaced fairly recently. Car has ZERO rust. It has been a Colorado/Nevada car its whole life.
Aftermarket Parts on the chassis that will remain if the shell is purchased separately:
-EVERY bushing in the Noltec suspension catalog available for the GC
-Perrin PSRS (basically like the whiteline anti lift stuff, but much better for a track car)
-4 point weld in roll bar w/ cross bar at the level for a harness attachment point. If two down bars were welded in to meet the firewall area it would easily pass NHRA tech down to 10.50. I would probably do the down bars and plates for a very small fee if someone bought the shell. Some people have commented that the roll bar sits crooked in the car. This was intentional. The passenger side sits about an inch farther back than the drivers side. This allows the passenger seat to be moved fully rearward. No tech inspector will care about this unless you are trying to tech the car for something that would necessitate cutting out all the tubing anyway.
-Steering rack bushings
-Front strut tower bar
-Adjustable rear strut tower bar
-MRT master cylinder brace
-A few other stupid minor things I'm probably forgetting including a huge box of random spare parts (turn signal lenses, fog lamps, etc.)
Aftermarket parts on the car that I won't sell separately unless someone buys the shell:
Drivetrain:
-'04 USDM STi trans (this was the first GC with a working 6mt swap that I know about)
-Exedy 3 puck ceramic clutch. Seemed to be in good shape when I had the engine out at about 5,000 miles.
-Exedy 14lb moly flywheel
-Working DCCD (no Auto mode, very few 6mt swapped GC's have a working DCCD)
Engine mod's:
-USDM STi Engine. I purchased the engine new in shrink wrap. Now has about 5,000 miles on it. No track days. Just some dyno time and screwing around on the street.
-APS TGV housings. (was planning on doing direct port nitrous)
-Helix 860cc injectors
-Walboro 255lph fuel pump
-Pieced together 3" exhaust. It's all mandrel bent. It works for now but is pretty abused. No leaks, but not pretty. Kinda loudish. Any WRX catback system should bolt up.
-Cable throttle (no DBW craptastic throttle response, still uses the STi manifold too)
-OLD JC sports Air to water intercooled turbo kit.
-TEC 18g (best 18g flavor ever made, sadly no longer available). Pretty high mileage. Small amount of shaft play. Still made 220whp (dyno dynamics) on only 8lbs. Was too lazy/tired to turn the boost up on the dyno that night. Never got around to getting back on the dyno.
Suspension/brakes:
-DMS gold coilovers. In need of a rebuild. I can get the buyer a hookup price on getting this done.
-front PDE camber plates (gold)
-rear Noltec camber plates (blue)
-Wilwood 4pot front 2pot rear calipers. Rebuilt 2,000 miles ago. No track days since. BP-20 pads with 2,000 miles.
-DBA 5000 (2 piece) front rotors with blue hats. 2,000 miles.
-Legacy H6 sized DBA 4000 rear rotors. Brand new
-Stoptech stainless lines
-JDM single stage brake booster (helps pedal feel so much it's retarded)
-Fresh ATE fluid
-A few other small things I'm probably missing
The bad:
It originally had one of the first (if not the first) version 2.5 Hydra EMS ECU's delivered in the country. Being the amazing piece of hardware that it is, the box burned up a few months ago. After dealing with all of the other Hydra related issues on this car I didn't want to deal with it. Car has been sitting in the garage ever since.
The cold side of the turbo kit and most of the engine harness is out of the car right now. When I thought I still wanted to continue with the car I was doing some engine bay cleanup and re-doing a few things (removing lots of wiring, re-routing PCV stuff, etc). Then I just lost motivation. No more than 4-5 hours of work to put everything back together. If the engine harness is dropped back in and an STi bulkhead harness is dropped in the car can use a factory USDM ECU. If not, a better standalone will need to be wired in. I will sell an Autronic at my cost to whomever buys the car.
That just about sums it up. I'm happy to answer any questions. The value in parts alone on this car is worth WAY more than $11,000.
Someone buy this so I can financially justify doing the bike project I want to.
Looking to get $11,000
http://www.flickr.com/photos/no-coast-punk/sets/72157604087794714/
Pics. Engine bay looks like **** because those pictures were taken about halfway through screwing with the harness. It's all there though. Car looks a bit dirty inside/out because it's been collecting dust for quite awhile.
I've had my RS for many many years now, used up quite a few expensive parts and had quite a bit of fun. Time to move on. I want to play with bikes more this year.
I have the following sitting on a shelf right now out of the car that I'm willing to part with immediately:
GC specific Tein HG coilovers. Brand New Never installed. $2000(try and find a set in stock anywhere in the country, normally this is a 2-3 month special order japan part. Find a set in stock anywhere in the country on a new set and I'll match the price)
BRAND NEW Quaife R160 LSD $1,100. (right now it's not installed, I have a spare diff. housing for this with a 3.9 ring and pinion. Bring me a ring and pinion of any other ratio and I'll install it. This part can be made to work with just about any R160 Subaru with the correct axle parts)
Koyo GC Radiator. Used. Pretty good condition. Comes with Samco hoses. $200
I am either going to sell the car whole, or part it out IF somebody will buy the bare shell for $2,000. NO PARTING OUT UNLESS SOMEONE BUYS THE SHELL.
Details:
1998 Impreza 2.5RS coupe. Rally blue pearl. Body is so-so. It's been pretty thrashed through many winters. A few small dings in both front fenders that PDR could fix. If someone buys the complete car I will take care of as much PDR work as possible before the sale. Windshield has a crack that can't be noticed (below the wiper resting spot). The right rear quarter panel was hit in a parking lot. I never had it fixed figuring I'd probably do worse damage during a track day at some point. The body is really not too bad. If the car is to be re-painted the prep. process will take care of 99% of whatever body work the car needs. All the stuff is still in the car for A/C to work minus two lines and a compressor (never got around to removing the condenser/evaporator, AC worked when I removed that stuff). All of the wheel bearings are nice and tight. Replaced fairly recently. Car has ZERO rust. It has been a Colorado/Nevada car its whole life.
Aftermarket Parts on the chassis that will remain if the shell is purchased separately:
-EVERY bushing in the Noltec suspension catalog available for the GC
-Perrin PSRS (basically like the whiteline anti lift stuff, but much better for a track car)
-4 point weld in roll bar w/ cross bar at the level for a harness attachment point. If two down bars were welded in to meet the firewall area it would easily pass NHRA tech down to 10.50. I would probably do the down bars and plates for a very small fee if someone bought the shell. Some people have commented that the roll bar sits crooked in the car. This was intentional. The passenger side sits about an inch farther back than the drivers side. This allows the passenger seat to be moved fully rearward. No tech inspector will care about this unless you are trying to tech the car for something that would necessitate cutting out all the tubing anyway.
-Steering rack bushings
-Front strut tower bar
-Adjustable rear strut tower bar
-MRT master cylinder brace
-A few other stupid minor things I'm probably forgetting including a huge box of random spare parts (turn signal lenses, fog lamps, etc.)
Aftermarket parts on the car that I won't sell separately unless someone buys the shell:
Drivetrain:
-'04 USDM STi trans (this was the first GC with a working 6mt swap that I know about)
-Exedy 3 puck ceramic clutch. Seemed to be in good shape when I had the engine out at about 5,000 miles.
-Exedy 14lb moly flywheel
-Working DCCD (no Auto mode, very few 6mt swapped GC's have a working DCCD)
Engine mod's:
-USDM STi Engine. I purchased the engine new in shrink wrap. Now has about 5,000 miles on it. No track days. Just some dyno time and screwing around on the street.
-APS TGV housings. (was planning on doing direct port nitrous)
-Helix 860cc injectors
-Walboro 255lph fuel pump
-Pieced together 3" exhaust. It's all mandrel bent. It works for now but is pretty abused. No leaks, but not pretty. Kinda loudish. Any WRX catback system should bolt up.
-Cable throttle (no DBW craptastic throttle response, still uses the STi manifold too)
-OLD JC sports Air to water intercooled turbo kit.
-TEC 18g (best 18g flavor ever made, sadly no longer available). Pretty high mileage. Small amount of shaft play. Still made 220whp (dyno dynamics) on only 8lbs. Was too lazy/tired to turn the boost up on the dyno that night. Never got around to getting back on the dyno.
Suspension/brakes:
-DMS gold coilovers. In need of a rebuild. I can get the buyer a hookup price on getting this done.
-front PDE camber plates (gold)
-rear Noltec camber plates (blue)
-Wilwood 4pot front 2pot rear calipers. Rebuilt 2,000 miles ago. No track days since. BP-20 pads with 2,000 miles.
-DBA 5000 (2 piece) front rotors with blue hats. 2,000 miles.
-Legacy H6 sized DBA 4000 rear rotors. Brand new
-Stoptech stainless lines
-JDM single stage brake booster (helps pedal feel so much it's retarded)
-Fresh ATE fluid
-A few other small things I'm probably missing
The bad:
It originally had one of the first (if not the first) version 2.5 Hydra EMS ECU's delivered in the country. Being the amazing piece of hardware that it is, the box burned up a few months ago. After dealing with all of the other Hydra related issues on this car I didn't want to deal with it. Car has been sitting in the garage ever since.
The cold side of the turbo kit and most of the engine harness is out of the car right now. When I thought I still wanted to continue with the car I was doing some engine bay cleanup and re-doing a few things (removing lots of wiring, re-routing PCV stuff, etc). Then I just lost motivation. No more than 4-5 hours of work to put everything back together. If the engine harness is dropped back in and an STi bulkhead harness is dropped in the car can use a factory USDM ECU. If not, a better standalone will need to be wired in. I will sell an Autronic at my cost to whomever buys the car.
That just about sums it up. I'm happy to answer any questions. The value in parts alone on this car is worth WAY more than $11,000.
Someone buy this so I can financially justify doing the bike project I want to.
Looking to get $11,000
http://www.flickr.com/photos/no-coast-punk/sets/72157604087794714/
Pics. Engine bay looks like **** because those pictures were taken about halfway through screwing with the harness. It's all there though. Car looks a bit dirty inside/out because it's been collecting dust for quite awhile.