Got the 'group n' wannabes, the harder 80 shore rubber mounts that lower the motor a bit (still expensive!)
I got the skidplate and the plastic tray off of the bottom
The driver's side looks like cake I can get it bottom and topside
The passenger's, bottomside looks easy, but it seems like there isn't going to be a way to get the top bolt from the topside, there's the exhaust/exhaust shield in the way
I *think* I might be able to get to the top bolt on that side from the bottom if I pull the O2 sensor right next to it, I bought a stubby 22mm wrench just to pull the O2 sensor and try
This one bolt looks to be a real PITA so if anyone has any tips or has done this before, please respond
Thanks :)

quick reply
got it done, those rogue engineering mounts are pretty hard, shakes pretty good @ idle, definite improvement on shifting, no doubt much less torque is sapped moving the darn motor around.
okay so this is how I did it:
obviously get the front end up as high as you can on jackstands, I don't think ramps can get you high enough to make this job comfortable, or at least the ones I see sold locally.
drop metal skidplate + plastic bottom cover (basically 1 piece together, a dozen bolts? 8mm and 17mm IIRC could be wrong)
remove intake boot, you can see the mount nuts if you use a flashlight, you need a couple good sized extensions and I used a universal joint on my 16mm socket, remove topside driver's side mount nut
on the passenger's side look for the exhaust shielding, there's two pieces that come together and almost touch, bend this back a little (don't worry), slip in some extensions, same length as before. From the bottom, attach a 16mm socket to the top of the mount nut, grab the extension that's dangling down (or go back up and move it if it isn't lined up yet), remove passenger's side
remove both bottomside mount nuts, same size socket, a u-joint or wobble adapter may be necessary to get the socket to fit right over the bolts properly without stripping them, I got the driver's side sans adapters
drop the 4 18mm bolts holding the subframe on, the mounts will not drop with this on. you don't have to undo the steering rack.
Put a jack under the oilpan, definitely put some wood in the way and try to line it up so its centered pretty well.
Jack it up, obviously YMMV but on mine the first thing to get in the way was the radiator fan, when it stopped spinning smoothly I took it down another 1/2" and it was fine again.
Get under there and really pull down on the subframe by hand, it should move in several directions, making it easy to find an angle where the mounts should slip off, they may need to be rotated sideways after they clear the brackets to get them out
The rogue engineering mounts use 17mm bolts, installation is repeat of removal but what I did was first torque them bottomside, I then tired myself out lifting the subframe as I bolted the subframe bolts back in -- a second jack would have been very nice at this point -- I did this away from home and didn't think to bring one, when those were in it basically lined everything up. Obviously it depends on what kind of jack you used for the motor, but mine was a cheap standard hydraulic floor jack so when it lifts up it doesn't always do it completely straight, so the motor was a *bit* cockeyed (3/4") when it came time to drop it back down onto the mounts, so I eyed the mount holes topside and pryed the motor to one side (CAREFULLY) until I could see that when it dropped, the mounts would go through the holes of the mounting brackets. Dropped the jack carefully (slowly), torqued down topside and it was good to go. The RE nuts are a bit different, my supposition is that the stock torque spec may not be enough for those semi-solid mounts so I gave it more torque.
Might have to take this all with a grain of salt because I was basically figuring it out as I went but I hope it helps someone in the future