I know that eventually, I'll be in the market for a replacement clutch (I have 91k on my original clutch).

Right now, the UUC Stage two with the lightweight aluminum flywheel and the M5 clutch are definitely something that sounds like it's worth considering. However, after reading thread after thread about chatter, I'd like to hear a car with a lightweight flywheel and M5 clutch for myself.

It's not something that has to happen right away, but I'm the type that likes to do my research before my clutch dies and I'm left having to make a quick decision.

I've heard that the lightweight flywheel is an amazing performance mod, and most that do it think the benefits outweight the annoyance of the chatter that may or may not show up. But, I also don't track or race my car, so if it's something that would save me a bunch of money and frustration, I might be fine with OEM M3 clutch.

So, experiencing it first hand sounds like a good place to start.

Let me know,

Trayson

As long as you don't have to replace the OEM flywheel you'd be money ahead to just replace your OEM clutch and keep the dual-mass flywheel. No real benefit to an aluminum flywheel if you don't track/race the car. If you had to replace both the OEM clutch and flywheel, you may save some money going aluminum aftermarket.

I have the UUC Stage II w/ Spec1 clutch and I get rattle when the tranny fluid is warm and the clutch is out in neutral. It's a race car.... who cares?

Jay

The last person I talked to at Haury's regarding a ltw flywheel/m5 clutch from UUC told me about some issues they had with the pressure plate not fitting properly on the past 3 E36's they did at the time, something to note when you place your order, I never got around to talking to him any further about it, I'm sure the problem has been worked out but if you end up getting fitting issues with the pressure plate try giving Haury's a call because they've done a few of those installs and I believe they had all their kinks worked out eventually.

As long as you don't have to replace the OEM flywheel you'd be money ahead to just replace your OEM clutch and keep the dual-mass flywheel. No real benefit to an aluminum flywheel if you don't track/race the car. If you had to replace both the OEM clutch and flywheel, you may save some money going aluminum aftermarket.

I have the UUC Stage II w/ Spec1 clutch and I get rattle when the tranny fluid is warm and the clutch is out in neutral. It's a race car.... who cares?

Jay

I read the writeup on UUC's website saying that decreasing the mass of the flywheel gives the feeling that's equivalent to a substantial weight reduction in the car, and in turn gives the "feel" of having additional HP in the lower gears... That's what sounds tempting to me.

http://www.uucmotorwerks.com/flywheel/how_a_lightweight_flywheel_works.htm

From UUC's web site:
Now, it may seen unbelievable that by removing a few pounds from the flywheel a noticeable difference to a 3000lb+ car’s acceleration will be made. In fact the difference is quite noticeable and the secret behind this is hidden within the gearbox. Everyone knows that cars accelerate at a greater rate in low gears, this is because a car’s gear box basically a mechanical lever and just like when using a leaver to lift a heavy object, the gearbox reduces the mass of the car that the engine sees. For example, in first gear an engine will see the car's mass as only around say 250lbs but the engine internal mass would still remain around 45lbs.


It is now easier to see were the extra performance comes from when you lighten a flywheel. You effectively "lighten" a car by more than 10% in first gear just by removing mass from the flywheel. As the gear used increases this "lightening" effect is reduced. This is why car’s acceleration improvement reduces in higher gears, to very effect in top gear. Great for drags and tight race tracks but will not increase a car's top speed.

You will see the calculations include the diameter of the flywheel, weight lost (same overall rotating mass difference in UUC Stage1 or Stage2 due to pressure plate weight differences), gear ratios including 6-speed application, and typical diff ratio.

The effective "virtual" weight losses are:
GEAR --------------------------------- M3 and 3-series "virtual" weight lost

1st gear ---------------------------------- 346.5 lbs.
2nd gear --------------------------------- 133.15 lbs.
3rd gear --------------------------------- 68.9 lbs.
4th gear ---------------------------------- 46.18 lbs.
5th gear ---------------------------------- 36.15 lbs.



A general rule of thumb for weight loss equivalence to "gained" power is approximately 10lbs/hp. That is for every 10lbs lost, the car gains the effective performance increase of 1hp.

With that in mind, the effective performance increase expressed in gained power can be expected to be the same as the "virtual" weight lost due to the flywheel in each gear divided by 10:

GEAR ---------------------------------- M3 and 3-series "virtual" performance gain:

1st gear --------------------------------- 34.6 hp
2nd gear --------------------------------- 13.3 hp
3rd gear --------------------------------- 6.9 hp
4th gear --------------------------------- 4.6 hp
5th gear --------------------------------- 3.6 hp

Ty Vil had the E34 M5 setup IIRC. While there was chatter with the clutch engaged in neutral, it wasn't anything to offset the improved responsiveness of the setup. If I had an E36 M3, by all means I would opt for this setup.

Trayson,
I don't have the m5 clutch, but your welcome to drive my car if you just want to know what the lightweight flywheel feels like. That is, once I fix the diff fluid leak :)

I've got the JB Racing flywheel at 10 lbs and a heavy duty Sachs clutch for comparison purposes. When I bought the car, the clutch was already on it's way out, so I really don't have an idea what it was supposed to feel like. I probably would not recommend the hd clutch for a daily driven car, but for what I'll be using the car for I think it'll hold up better.

-m.

can not use a M5 pressure plate on a E36?

Dont listen to anyone here. I have the exact same kit in my e36 325is. The uuc lightweight flywheel and stage 2 m5 race clutch. Let me just tell you it is amazing. Especially with a chip made for the kit the throttle response is amazing and when power shifting i lose nearly zero power. The lightweight flywheel makes the car feel way more responsive. My buddies m3's gas pedal feels so slow and sluggish compared to mine.

i dont live around there though lol. but if you came up here in l;ike 2 weeks u would be able to drive.

Trayson,
I don't have the m5 clutch, but your welcome to drive my car if you just want to know what the lightweight flywheel feels like. That is, once I fix the diff fluid leak :)

I've got the JB Racing flywheel at 10 lbs and a heavy duty Sachs clutch for comparison purposes. When I bought the car, the clutch was already on it's way out, so I really don't have an idea what it was supposed to feel like. I probably would not recommend the hd clutch for a daily driven car, but for what I'll be using the car for I think it'll hold up better.

-m.

Just to be clear; The flywheel is great and the quicker revs make the car a lot easier to drive. I would probably not recommend the HD Sachs clutch for a daily driver. I would look at a more standard clutch.

-m.

i have a Active gen 3 lightened fly wheel with the M5 clutch,I live in Portland if you wanna check it out.
thanks-

but can you use a M5 pressure plate on a E36?

Thanks, I'll try and look one or two of you up when I get some free time!

my stage two uuc fly wheel and m5 clutch set up is not in a m3 but a 1998 328i and as for the chatter it only happens when it is warm the only down fall is that off of the line it takes a little more gas then the stalk but the motor dose respond quicker and the car is a lot more fun to drive in and out of town, stop and go, or just spirited driving. i have had this set up in my car since 80k and it has 150k on it now and it still drives awsome. there are other set ups out there that might work for you but eventually i and going to up grade in horse power and i do safe spirited driving so for me it was worth it . good luck.

I had the UUC flywheel and the E34 M5 clutch - I really liked that setup.

I had the UUC flywheel and the E34 M5 clutch - I really liked that setup.

And how would you describe the clutch chatter in Neutral or w/ the clutch in?

Ive got the UUC 8.5 and I feel like there is a big difference in the response and acceleration off the line from the light weight fly wheel.

I say do it, you will love it. and the chatter is not that annoying, your radio will cover that up

And how would you describe the clutch chatter in Neutral or w/ the clutch in?
clutch in - very minimal.

neutral w/clutch out - I'd only notice it in enclosed spaces (drive thru's mostly).

It didn't bother me one bit.

all I have to say is...it's nice

And how would you describe the clutch chatter in Neutral or w/ the clutch in?

Look it rattles with the clutch in. Put on your big girl panties and get over it:rolleyes.
The responsivness overides it ten times over. Turn up the tunes, geez.

Look it rattles with the clutch in. Put on your big girl panties and get over it:rolleyes.
The responsivness overides it ten times over. Turn up the tunes, geez.

What's with the attitude man? Asking a direct question from someone that has FIRST HAND experience with the exact setup that I'm considering is pretty darned prudent if you ask me. It's not like we're talking about something that is a cheap mod, or easily reversable.

Do you have a problem with someone doing a bit of research when considering if it's right to throw down a significan't amount of money on something?

Why don't you put on your "grown up" panties and not get so bent because a guy's asking legitimate questions about something that has a lot of subjectivity, geez.

What's with the attitude man? Asking a direct question from someone that has FIRST HAND experience with the exact setup that I'm considering is pretty darned prudent if you ask me. It's not like we're talking about something that is a cheap mod, or easily reversable.

Do you have a problem with someone doing a bit of research when considering if it's right to throw down a significan't amount of money on something?

Why don't you put on your "grown up" panties and not get so bent because a guy's asking legitimate questions about something that has a lot of subjectivity, geez.

It was meant in jest :nutz: but I guess my point did not get across right so your :pissed.
Seriously I have had this exact set up for 1.5 years in my car. It rattles, like ....like um plastic rocks in a can on low volume. In a street car like yours it will most likely be louder at a stoplight outside the car rather then in. You have a vert, so with tunes down or off you will hear it. But really its not bad and you get used to it quickly.
The super quick revs are very much worth it. And you get the bonus of a bigger stronger clutch.
:drink1 peace

It was meant in jest :nutz: but I guess my point did not get across right so your :pissed.
Seriously I have had this exact set up for 1.5 years in my car. It rattles, like ....like um plastic rocks in a can on low volume. In a street car like yours it will most likely be louder at a stoplight outside the car rather then in. You have a vert, so with tunes down or off you will hear it. But really its not bad and you get used to it quickly.
The super quick revs are very much worth it. And you get the bonus of a bigger stronger clutch.
:drink1 peace

Damn that internet for making it easier to miss your true meaning... (and me for being too darned reactionary!)

Thanks for the clarification. :cool

No worries, maybe I was grumpy when I typed that. :)
Have you been able to hear the set up in a car in person?
Mine would not help you much as now it is a fully gutted race car only. Well that and you can't hear it from Oregon.
I would say go for it. I got my flywheel used, spent a few bucks to have the steel friction disk ground at a machine shop, then put in a whole new M5 clutch kit in it. Make sure you do that, you don't want to tear it all down for a worn throw out and/or pilot bearing.