any recommendations? price figures? I would grately appreciate any and all input!

Cheers,
Thomas

Meyle seems to be the replacement of choice, OE quality at a good price.

wow thanks for the quick reply! is Meyle availible via ebay? how do you recommend I go about ordering/purchasing?

Thank you!
Thomas

www.autohausaz.com

found their website! thank you much, and I welcome anyone else's input.

Cheers,
Thomas

oh dang, thanks Gr8White!

Meyle is great. AutohauzAz is a great source for the lower arms. Ebay has upper arms, but make sure they're not fitted with the 750iL 'upgraded' bushings (ask me how I know).

Important #1: when it comes to the lower arms, you must replace the whole lower arm because they are aluminum. They cannot be reused.

Important #2: preload those bushings by lowering car onto a jackstand and tighten prior to release into the wild or kiss those bushings goodbye.

...actually on "Important #2": you need to lower the car's wheels onto a ramp or similar - do not use jackstands, in order to properly pre-load the bushings.

Even if the car's on a hydraulic lift (that's how I've been doing it for years)?

As long as the lift supports the car by the wheels, you are ok. If the suspension is hanging the bushings will suffer if tightened in that position. Ride quality will suffer as well.

In short, the bushings must be tightened while vehicle is under load to establish the correct preload on the bushing.

I like to roll the car with the bushings loose to ensure that proper "alignment" has been achieved and the suspension is properly settled. Then on the ramps and tighten to proper torque.

Hope this helps.

...exactly!

I'm in good shape then! :D

thanks for all your help guys, it's MUCH appreciated!

Cheers and Thanks,
Thomas

also, the go for brand for the upper arm is meyle.
while the superior lower arm is manufactured by lemfoerder.

im doing this job in a month or so... Are you guys saying it would be best to snug the bushing up with the suspension hanging. Then drive the car around the block to obtain proper 'alignment', and then torque them up fully under load?

don't drive
if you tighten the bushings all the way down while the wheel would be in the air , the weight of the car will then rip the bushings , when it will settle

that is why you are supposed to tighten the bolts when the car is with the wheels on the ground. or touching the skids of your lift for that matter.

great thanks for that info, that'l save alot of trouble!

Question...

I just did this, using Meyle uppers and Lemforder lowers. Replaced the sway bar & bushing and links also. Now I have this kinda creak when I turn at slow speeds. Is this normal, some kind of break in period? The back creaks also, so getting ready to hit that, too...

Question...

I just did this, using Meyle uppers and Lemforder lowers. Replaced the sway bar & bushing and links also. Now I have this kinda creak when I turn at slow speeds. Is this normal, some kind of break in period? The back creaks also, so getting ready to hit that, too...

i hear that the poly bushings do that

Question...

I just did this, using Meyle uppers and Lemforder lowers. Replaced the sway bar & bushing and links also. Now I have this kinda creak when I turn at slow speeds. Is this normal, some kind of break in period? The back creaks also, so getting ready to hit that, too...


Uh oh, did you use those solid poly bushings? If so, they are incorrect, they creak, and they will tear! You must replace them with OEM bushings with the triangles inside of them.

I speak from experience:
http://forums.roadfly.com/forums/bmw/bmw-8-series-e31/8725159-1.html

The bushings are NOT supposed to stick out like the ones in my pics!

Koizumi,

Thanks. I don't remember the uppers sticking out like that, I'm gonna crawl under here again today and double check. I just used the bushing already in the arms. So it's better to use OEM, because I was thinking of going the powerflex route for the front and rear (rear is really creaking now)...

I put the blue poly Grunts bushings in the top arms 5 years and 25,000 miles ago and they still look like the day I put them in.

In the middle of replacing all 10 of my rear bushings.

Wow, I'm glad I didn't lower the car yet -- I torqued my rear inner control arms down while the suspension is unloaded. :eyecrazy I had a funny feeling this wasn't right.

I'll loosen those before I drop the car for the first time!

Also, I didn't replace my lower rear control arm -- I was able to press the old bushing out and put a new one in, although it was difficult due to the "split" design of the part where the bushing goes. Is that the wrong approach and will my suspension be messed up?

Checked last night, green triangles. What's with the creak? Had the car up on the lift with the front tires off, and then turn the wheels, still creaked...What the Creakin' Creak? :confused