I recently bought a 1995 M3 to build into a dedicated track car -- and maybe a race car over the next couple of years. I'm planning a NASA HDPE event in three weeks to begin sorting out the car.

Before this event I'm planning to add an X-brace, front and rear sub-frame reinforcements, new brakes, and maybe a front strut brace.

My rotors are close to the min. and need to be replaced and the pads are street pads and I want to add SS lines.

At what point does a BBK (like the Wilwood set-up from UUC) really help track performance? I have heard that most IP cars use stock calipers and floating rotors. They must duct the brakes right?

What about pads -- I have used both Cool Willies and Hawk Blues on my previous JS E30 M3. I like to bite of the Blues but they destroyed two sets of wheels. What other options are there for stock calipers?

Second, VAC sells an oil pan baffle kit. Is this necessary on a track car?

Third, Turner sells a fuel pump/trap kit to prevent starvation. Is this necessary on a very early E36 (3/94 build)?

Finally, are their any other essential things that need to be addressed?

Thanks,
Ren Finley
1995 M3 118
Denver, CO

as for HPDE... many people track mostly stock e36 m3's regularly with no problems at all, so i dont think you really need those things you listed... except for some good pads and SS brakelines. I have tried Hawk HT10 pads on the track and they seem to work great.


For further info on Tracking / Racing the car, your probably better off asking stuff in the Track, Auto-X & Drag Racing Forum (http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=128)

Good Luck:thumbup:

The advantages of a BBK is increased thermal mass in the rotors and larger swept area. Those factors combine to reduce the peak temperatures of the rotors/pads. For track use, cooling ducts for the front rotors is still required, whether you have a BBK or not. Floating rotors, cooling ducts, and proper pad choice should suffice. But if cost is no object, a BBK won't hurt.

As to pads, Hawk HT-10's or PFC-01's (my favorite) work very well on the track and won't damage the wheels or paint.

Anything that helps ensure oil pump pickup under cornering (like the VAC baffle) is a good idea.

As long as you don't allow the tank to go below 1/2 the dual fuel pump kit can be dispensed with. Otherwise you can run into fuel starvation while cornering.

I did not see any mention of your current level of track experience. That would be the first thing I would want to know before commenting on car setup.

Good point -- 10+ years of wheel to wheel racing including NASA, SCCA, and BMWCCA. Everything from ITC 510s to JS/IP E30 M3 to Porsche 996 GT3. I just finished two years racing a 125 shifter kart and am moving back to cars.

I believe the Track forum is a more appropriate place for this thread so I moved it for you.

Comments:

1) Save your money on the front strut brace. While the x-brace is a good investment, the strut brace won't do much for you.

2) A BBK is nice but not necessary. Many Prepared cars and possibly some Mod cars run M3 brakes with upgraded pads and ducting. However, if you asked how many would like a BBK I'll bet there would be a lot of hands in the air. I'd love one but money is tight and there are other places where mine would be better spent.

3) Hawk HT-10/HT-10, HT-14/HT-10, don't seeem to bother the wheels much. Not sure about their DTC compounds. I'm currently using some Cobalt Friction pads that work great but are more caustic than the Hawks. I'm about to try the Reybestos ST-43s. They've gotten good reviews.

4) An oil pan baffle kit is a great upgrade. I don't have one but wish I did.

5) E36s get fuel starvation in sweepers. My car got so bad I had to keep it above 1/2 tank to avoid it. I added the Bimmerworld dual fuel pump kit and have no more problems. I'll get side loading starvation about a lap or so before the yellow light comes on.

6) It never ends. Suspension, suspension, suspension..... horsepower, horsepower.... and so on.

Welcome to the slippery slope.

Jay

Jay,

thanks for the info and the thread move, maybe you can combine the two threads? -- and you can ignore my PM now.

Sadly this is at least my fourth time down this slope.

Threads merged

Just something I found out this week when getting the oil pump nut safety wired and baffle kit installed.

BMW has already installed a baffle in M3 oil pans.
Now it's not as nifty as the aftermarket one, but it's there.

That's it on the right there, a stock BMW baffle out of my 95 M3.
http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p319/M_III_Pilot/Build/Image031.jpg

+1 to everything Jay said. I get starvation at 1/2 tank, but I'm keeping it for now because that's also the point I reach min wt. I did a baffle on my 98. There wasn't a "stock" one.:dunno

+1 to everything Jay said. I get starvation at 1/2 tank, but I'm keeping it for now because that's also the point I reach min wt. I did a baffle on my 98. There wasn't a "stock" one.:dunno
Hmm, that's what I get for assuming.
Maybe it's year dependant.:conf

From what I have read '95s have the baffles, I could be mistaken. All recommendations for parts are good. I have yet to get the x-brace myself. Brake set up I use is Stock Calipers, Turner Slotted rotors, SS lines, Pagid Orange and not ducts :( I know. I need to put ducts in but gona be doing BBK this year and doing it the same time. Now I don't mean to thread jack but a answer on this would be cool. I got a quote from my shop to put oil baffles in and they said at-least 6 hours. Because they had to chain the engine up and drop the sub frame, does this sound about right? I want to make sure I am not getting taken for a ride, I also find that by answering this it can help out everyone in knowing the rough cost.

Not sure about the 6 hours but the engine must be supported so the subframe can be dropped to get the pan off. I can't see that part adding any more than an hour for a shop with the proper equipment.

While you're in there would be a good time to do the motor mounts. For a track car I'd recommend poly or delrin. I use UUC poly mounts and their matching race tranny mounts. You don't want the engine/tranny moving around because on the e36 the shifter console is attached to the tranny at the front end and the floor of the car at the rear. Movement of engine/tranny is primary cause of money shifts.

Jay

Not sure about the 6 hours but the engine must be supported so the subframe can be dropped to get the pan off. I can't see that part adding any more than an hour for a shop with the proper equipment.

While you're in there would be a good time to do the motor mounts. For a track car I'd recommend poly or delrin. I use UUC poly mounts and their matching race tranny mounts. You don't want the engine/tranny moving around because on the e36 the shifter console is attached to the tranny at the front end and the floor of the car at the rear. Movement of engine/tranny is primary cause of money shifts.

Jay

Jay thank you for the answer.

I was planning on doing all mounts and bushings in the area at the same time. easier to do it when you are in there.

Kyle