Note: before fitting your new diff i would advise that u drain the old oil out and refill to the correct level with the recommended weight oil for the diff u are fitting. the lower allen head bolt on the back of the diff is for draining, the upper one is for filling, diff should be sitting level and you fill the diff untill oil starts to come out the fill hole then tighten the upper allen head bolt back up.


first of all, get the rear of the car up on axle stands.. if u have acess to a car lift that would make the job alot easier. now with the rear end in the air, put the handbrake off, put the car into 1st gear to stop the propshaft from spinning freely. also make sure the car is high enough off the ground so that the rear wheels arent on the ground still.


get under the car and disconnect the 2 pin plug on the back of the diff (this sends the signal to your speedometer). pull back the CV boots on either side of the diff. loosen the 12 torx bolts connecting the driveshafts to the diff and move the driveshafts towards the front of the car and out of the way. u will need to turn the wheels round to get the torx bolts in a position where u can get a socket onto it without the driveshaft getting in the way so u may have to take the car out of gear and put it back in gear a few times.

http://img341.imageshack.us/img341/6567/60745184kp0.jpg
http://img515.imageshack.us/img515/659/88954685kc4.jpg

next unbolt the 4 16mm nuts joining the propshaft to the input shaft on the front of the diff. remove 2 then take the car out of gear, turn the propshaft so u can get at the other 2 nuts, put the car back into 1st gear and remove the other 2 then once again put the car into neutral.

http://img356.imageshack.us/img356/6881/10988556my4.jpg
http://img356.imageshack.us/img356/9240/74853601if3.jpg

now unbolt the anti roll bar bushings from the mounting tabs under the car. 1 bolt either side, they are 13mm nuts/bolts. next pull the anti roll bar down so u can get at the 2 18mm bolts that hold the rear of the diff to the underside of the car. before removing them completely use a trolley jack to support the weight of the diff.

http://img515.imageshack.us/img515/1109/66887818gy9.jpg

next, unbolt the last 18mm bolt holding the diff to the car. its located just below where the propshaft mates to the diff at the front of the diff. once that is out the diff can be pulled towards the rear of the car (with a bit of persuasion) and removed.. be careful tho as when it drops it does drop as its heavy.

http://img515.imageshack.us/img515/420/52067987ud9.jpg
http://img515.imageshack.us/img515/3971/73847490oa5.jpg

providing the diff that u want to put in is of the same size then fitting is just the reverse of removal. (4cyl use small casing diff, 6cyl use large casing). if your fitting a big casing diff to a 4cyl car you will need driveshafts from a 6cyl car. if fitting a small casing diff to a 6cyl car u will need 4cyl driveshafts. if painting the new diff make sure to mask off the plug for the speedo signal on the back of the diff.

http://img85.imageshack.us/img85/8431/33880957iy1.jpg
http://img396.imageshack.us/img396/6889/86722208kt8.jpg

and thats it boys and girls.. a word of warning tho. dont try this if u dont have a bit of upper body strength about u, especially if ur doing it ghetto style like i did with the car on axle stands.

dont worry if this thread mysteriously disappears.. i have requested it be moved into the E36 DIY instructions section.

Nice job, mate. I did it the same way you did and with oil in the diff:D Landed right on my chect, lucky enough I am a bulky guy, but I got caught underneath my car, had to wigle for around 5min, to get out with diff on my chest:D
I would really not suggest to do that for a guy under 200lbs!

Really easy if you have a lift and a friend helping.

I'm glad you are still alive after using a drill bit for a axle stand pin you wally! Not a good idea especially as you used the fluted part!

+5 on the guide, -20 for stupidity! :D

the other stand was holding the bulk of the weight, that one was just to keep the car from leaning to that side and letting the wheel touch the ground. couldnt get the car any higher with the crappy little trolley jack i have lol

i always hate the "dirt falling in your eyes/nose/mouth" bit when working under a car.

uhh.. and where are my points for colour coding the diff? lol

I will let you off! :D

gezz think you have a big enough rust farm?

and those boots on those axels done look good. they are torn...

but other than than its a good DIY

im in ireland.. it rains here like 24/7 and we get the occasional snow and ice.. for 12 years old that rear subframe is in great shape. its just surface rust, nothing structural. the bushings are all fine, etc.. one of the next things ill be doing is tackling the underside of the car. rust converter and chassis paint FTW! (incase u were wondering why on earth i painted the diff)

also the boots are not torn lol

u gotta pull them back in order to get a socket onto the hex bolts.

You forgot to add the part about drinking beer then having trouble lining up the holes to mount it back to the subframe, lol.

nice work... color coded diff... Now THATS important ;)

adds 57hp to the wheels lol