I´ve read that some of you have done the conversion.
I have problems with my smg....

So, what parts do i have to get before my car runs like manual?
Of course the clutch pedal+cylinders and shifter etc, but do parts have to be on m3 manual?
If you can help with part numbers, it´s gonna help me a lot.

What about the electric?
I pull out the smg control unit, but car won´t start anymore.
So is there major work with electrics?

Sorry my bad english(i´m from finland) :)

unplugging the smg computer alone definitely will stop your car from starting
you have to unplug everything on the shifter too...also reflash the ews

unplugging the smg computer alone definitely will stop your car from starting
you have to unplug everything on the shifter too...also reflash the ews
Ok, where do i get the reflash? bmw?

Btw, do i need these parts to my tranny if i converse it to manual:
http://bmwfans.info/original/E36/Lim/M3%203.2-S50/ECE/L/M/1997/09/mg-23/ill-23_0233/

If you are converting using your box, the gearbox parts are items 1,2,3,4,5,6,16 on your link.
You will also need to machine the bores in your bellhousing to fit parts 1 to 6.
I used a spare bellhousing to copy dimensions and components.
If you have cruise control, a clutch switch will need to be installed and wired in.
See Zparker's smg trackcar thread post 68.Also my cluster swap thread.And search my posts because I'm sure there are threads missing from this section.
The smg computer need not be unplugged, just pull smg fuse and unplug the connectors on the cluster that come from the smg comp.
Anyway good luck, looking back now that I've done the conversion it's very similar to converting an auto to a manual.

If you are converting using your box, the gearbox parts are items 1,2,3,4,5,6,16 on your link.
You will also need to machine the bores in your bellhousing to fit parts 1 to 6.
Ok. I don´t need any other parts inside transmission?
If so, this sounds pretty "easy" in paper.

The smg computer need not be unplugged, just pull smg fuse and unplug the connectors on the cluster that come from the smg comp.
So i don´t need reflash?

Here in finland i think no one ever done this yet, so thanks a lot guys for helping me!

Now my transmission is parts on table, and i´m pretty sure that only parts i need is numbers 1-6.

Those keep gearshift on center, and there is also reverse gear locking.
Without these my stick is between 5 and 6.

Are you sure that parts on 16 is needed, because there allready is 3 springs and little metal balls?

I tried email you Dusm3, but i think you haven´t got anything on mail.

The electrics is my headache, so where i have to put the clutch signal?
Now my shifter is unplugged, and smg fuse also, so i need unplug something behind the cluster? And after that my car starts?

Leppala, I trust you got my email.
Item 16 is the upgraded part, balls are no longer used, they are now cups.
You should disconnect the plugs that come from the smg computer to the cluster.There are two fuses for the smg , don't pull #7. Pull fuse 28-smg supply .
If you have cruise control you need the clutch switch.Check the Ag version of the ETM to get the wiring right.
When you install the clutch hose(rubber)there is a clutch pressure switch which must be installed to plug the hole,connection is not available so don't worry there seems to be no need for it.
Don't forget to get the mounting brackets for the clutch lines.
There is a repair kit for the gearbox, I'm still looking for the part number.It is listed for the 5 speed but is exactly the same for the 6 speed.These are the bushings,circlips and plugs for the locking pins.

-part # 2311 7542 726-repair kit bearing,qty 2

DusM3, it will be extremely helpful if you can give us the link to your thread here
I have a spare smg gearbox sitting around, I might be doing the same thing later down the road when i get the time.
thanks man

DusM3, it will be extremely helpful if you can give us the link to your thread here
I have a spare smg gearbox sitting around, I might be doing the same thing later down the road when i get the time.
thanks man

Not sure which thread you mean, I don't have a dedicated thread since I was converting at the time.
I had to search my posts to find that part#.
This thread has most of the info,I'll look at getting all the info I have and put it in a new thread for anyone who needs it and hopefully other people can put in working solutions to other sections of the conversion , with possibly some new uses for the leftover loom and sensors, eg gearbox oil temp,gearbox speed sensor,acceleration sensors(lateral and longitudinal) , pedal pot. etc.
I believe there is some serious untapped potential there.

that lateral and longitudinal readout was very cool...i saw it on the computer and i was very amazed only smg version have that!!!
it is like playing play station gt5

Leppala, I trust you got my email.
Item 16 is the upgraded part, balls are no longer used, they are now cups.
You should disconnect the plugs that come from the smg computer to the cluster.There are two fuses for the smg , don't pull #7. Pull fuse 28-smg supply .
If you have cruise control you need the clutch switch.Check the Ag version of the ETM to get the wiring right.
When you install the clutch hose(rubber)there is a clutch pressure switch which must be installed to plug the hole,connection is not available so don't worry there seems to be no need for it.
Don't forget to get the mounting brackets for the clutch lines.
There is a repair kit for the gearbox, I'm still looking for the part number.It is listed for the 5 speed but is exactly the same for the 6 speed.These are the bushings,circlips and plugs for the locking pins.

-part # 2311 7542 726-repair kit bearing,qty 2
No email here? Try perttileppala (at) hotmail.com

I get the missing parts from local bmw dealer next week.
Price was very cheap, 49euros.
Thanks from the part#, you´re king :)

I got the steel shifter here on finland, and it´s ment to be on f-group rally car´s. Think the shifting is gonna be quite short

I found the wiring diagram:http://hosting.data.bg/bmw/BMW/E-Books/E36/Electronic%20Troubleshooting%20Manual%20(ETM)/E36_Sedan.pdf
That´s correct for euro model?

Do the clutch pedal+sylinders+other parts have to be on m3, or do the 325 parts fit there?

The diagram in your link is the same one I'm using.
Clutch cylinders and lines are M3 specific, the clutch pedal parts is most E36's.
Best bet is to type in the last seven digits of your VIN in the etk and it's all there. Go through a few of the relevant diagrams, many questions answer themselves.
How are you going to tackle the machining? The bore diameters/pitch/location and angle nedd to be very precise as being out will change the shift feel and wrongly preload the shift forks (I think).
That shifter, is that a factory part , do you have any info/pics of it?
Cheers

The diagram in your link is the same one I'm using.
Clutch cylinders and lines are M3 specific, the clutch pedal parts is most E36's.
Best bet is to type in the last seven digits of your VIN in the etk and it's all there. Go through a few of the relevant diagrams, many questions answer themselves.
How are you going to tackle the machining? The bore diameters/pitch/location and angle nedd to be very precise as being out will change the shift feel and wrongly preload the shift forks (I think).
That shifter, is that a factory part , do you have any info/pics of it?
Cheers
My friend is machining the bellhousing to me, and after i get the missing parts i have to check carefully the parts and locations with them.
I think it´s pretty basic to them (hope so :) )

Yeah the shifter is some kind of factory part, here´s a picture: http://www.ralli.net/rnet/images/markkinat/uploads/18531.jpg
Mine is little different with colours, but it´s exactly same shifter.
I put later today a pic.

E: It´s not the same shifter..

Here´s a pics of my shifter: http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t228/pleppala/projektia/23042008251.jpg
http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t228/pleppala/projektia/23042008253.jpg
Oh and my tranny parts came today:alright
Still have to get that little ball bearing, but thats no problem i think.

Today i removed the steering wheel+cluster, and checked a wiring diagram little....there is soooo much wires...
Do i have to cut ALL wires where smg computer is involved behind the cluster? Remember colours?

That carrier looks a lot like the AC Schnitzer carrier.

The Factory one is quite a bit lighter, but probably not quite as stiff. I rather suspect that the bulk of the carrier imparts a different feel to the shifting mechanism overall, one that people prefer... or... well, no one would by the ACS parts, right?

I have three of those on the shelf used, and it took me a while to figure out what they were, and who made them as they have nothing but a part number stamped on them. I wrongly assumed after seeing 3 of them that they may have been factory upgrades or equivalent late model parts or something.

I'm curious if anyone can chime in on how that solid carrier is an improvement over stock... with any degree of certainty!

Alex.

Here´s a pics of my shifter: http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t228/pleppala/projektia/23042008251.jpg
http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t228/pleppala/projektia/23042008253.jpg
Oh and my tranny parts came today:alright
Still have to get that little ball bearing, but thats no problem i think.

Today i removed the steering wheel+cluster, and checked a wiring diagram little....there is soooo much wires...
Do i have to cut ALL wires where smg computer is involved behind the cluster? Remember colours?

You're not really going to cut the wires are you?
In the diagram they are plugs.No wires were cut in mine.(I think)Though that's what my mechanic told me.Only one wire was added for the clutch switch.

You're not really going to cut the wires are you?
In the diagram they are plugs.No wires were cut in mine.(I think)Though that's what my mechanic told me.Only one wire was added for the clutch switch.
Behind the cluster there is plugs, but they have much more wires than smg only. so i think they cannot be unplugged.
Only plug before cluster is x69 on that diagram, but there goes all smg wires. Can you ask your mechanic what kind of plugs he unplugged, and how many of them?
The wiring is only problem in this project to me...

Finally my gearbox is working:redspot
The dimensions of that little ball bearing : 22mm/8mm(hole) and 7mm thick.
I put same spring to reverse locking pin as the 5-6 have. It´s little softer.

Tomorrow i´m gonna lift it back to car.

Still need help with those wirings...

what do you have to do with the bell housing?
I have my smg gearbox sitting around and i really want to change it back to manual spec
There are machinist in HK, but i need to tell them what to do....because they are just machinist

what do you have to do with the bell housing?
I have my smg gearbox sitting around and i really want to change it back to manual spec
There are machinist in HK, but i need to tell them what to do....because they are just machinist
You need to do just a 2 straight holes.
When you got the parts, you know what i mean. Outside of the tranny the holes must be little bigger, because there comes seals(don´tknow right word), but like i said when you see the missing parts with your machinist, he will know what i mean.

do you have to take apart the whole transmission...or just drill from the outside?

also, how does the shifting feel compare to the manual gearbox?

do you have to take apart the whole transmission...or just drill from the outside?
You have to drop your gearbox, and take the bellhousing out.
It´s just 2-3 hours job.

also, how does the shifting feel compare to the manual gearbox?
The shifting feel is just like manual.

:buttrockIT`S ALIVE!
2 smg fuses out, and straight 12v to start, and it´s running.
I haven´t drive yet, but hope it´s gonna work on drive too.
Tomorrow i get the clutch cylinders.
I thinks it´s moving in this summer:)

:buttrockIT`S ALIVE!
2 smg fuses out, and straight 12v to start, and it´s running.
I haven´t drive yet, but hope it´s gonna work on drive too.
Tomorrow i get the clutch cylinders.
I thinks it´s moving in this summer:)

Looks like you are almost there!
Did you remove Fuse 7 as well, if so does your central locking still work?
Reason I ask is on pg 42 of wiring diagram fuse 7 supplies this circuit.
I haven't pulled out my cluster to see what is disconnected, but I remember seeing at least one plug removed.
The clutch switch had +12v from a whole bunch of solder connectors under the dash-this then went to the switch and then ground.(the connection had no label).

Looks like you are almost there!
Did you remove Fuse 7 as well, if so does your central locking still work?
Reason I ask is on pg 42 of wiring diagram fuse 7 supplies this circuit.
I haven't pulled out my cluster to see what is disconnected, but I remember seeing at least one plug removed.
The clutch switch had +12v from a whole bunch of solder connectors under the dash-this then went to the switch and then ground.(the connection had no label).
I removed #26, and #111 (#111 because the hydraulic pump is else running all the time).
Think the clutch information is not have to be, if i don´t use the cruise?
I´m using "separated start button", so this starts when i push it.

DusM3, did you use your own pedal assembly?
I got the cylinders today, and i think that the master cylinder won´t fit to smg assembly?
I´m not sure, because i don´t have the pedal yet.

DusM3, did you use your own pedal assembly?
I got the cylinders today, and i think that the master cylinder won´t fit to smg assembly?
I´m not sure, because i don´t have the pedal yet.

The pedal box is original, as is the brake and accelerator pedals. I ordered the clutch pedal,springs,clips,over the centre helper,slave and master cylinders, plug-in pipe,clutch hose and pressure switch,mtg brackets etc.
At the moment the slave cylinder is the smg unit on mine because of a big delay on getting the plug in pipe.I used the LHD version pipe and shaped it to get running.Now I have the correct part I will be installing the lines and the slave cylinder when I remove my plenum next time.
The master cylinder should fit-but is a major PITA,I had to re-install one night because it wasn't put in straight originally.Is your master plastic and has no boot at front-this version is used with the plug-in pipe.Post some pics if you can.
Also I removed the pump and left the cable/plug/relay/fuse etc.

The pedal box is original, as is the brake and accelerator pedals. I ordered the clutch pedal,springs,clips,over the centre helper,slave and master cylinders, plug-in pipe,clutch hose and pressure switch,mtg brackets etc.
At the moment the slave cylinder is the smg unit on mine because of a big delay on getting the plug in pipe.I used the LHD version pipe and shaped it to get running.Now I have the correct part I will be installing the lines and the slave cylinder when I remove my plenum next time.
The master cylinder should fit-but is a major PITA,I had to re-install one night because it wasn't put in straight originally.Is your master plastic and has no boot at front-this version is used with the plug-in pipe.Post some pics if you can.
Also I removed the pump and left the cable/plug/relay/fuse etc.
Here is pics of master:
http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t228/pleppala/projektia/07052008260.jpg
http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t228/pleppala/projektia/07052008261.jpg

here is pedal assembly:
http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t228/pleppala/projektia/07052008259.jpg
http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t228/pleppala/projektia/07052008262.jpg
Which are the holes to master cylinder? Can you copy and draw to pic them?

Here is my project pics: http://s161.photobucket.com/albums/t228/pleppala/projektia/

and here is few pics of the car http://s161.photobucket.com/albums/t228/pleppala/bmw%20m3%20smg%20-99/

btw, what means pita:)

That master cylinder is not the one I have, mine is shorter and has no boot at the front. I believe yours is from the earlier models.
Part number is 2152 6758 820-input cylinder.Should be the same on your car. Look at the "From Date" to avoid the wrong parts.

I get those cylinder from local part dealer, not bmw dealer...
Thats why it won´t fit there...
Now i have to get the pedal to see if this cylinder finds it´s place somehow.

\o/ it´s ready now!!!
Gearshift on that short shifter is great.
Thanks guys for help.

Onnistuihan se !!!! Hyvin tehty homma.

Well done DUSM3!!!!!

Onnistuihan se !!!! Hyvin tehty homma.

Well done DUSM3!!!!!
Kiitoksi vaan
Pikaisten btcf selailuiden jälkeen tajusin että täällähän on suomalaisiakin:)
Thanks again DusM3:urtheman

No problem guys, I wish all this info was available when I was doing mine. I wouldn't have screwed around with as much!
How is the clutch engagement on yours Leppala ? I put in my new clutch line and slave cylinder/hose in over the weekend and am not happy with the pedal feel or engagement point. Maybe i didn't bleed correctly (I used the pump the pedal and hold method). The clutch now seems to engage virtually at the firewall - even though the slave pushrod is longer than the smg slave by about 15 mm, and the smg slave engagement was about 25 mm from the firewall ????
I will rig up a pressure bleed tomorrow and see the results.

I also put in and wired the engine oil temp. sensor, in preparation for the cluster, I will post some pics soon.
Also I discovered that if the smg pump relay feedback (7.5A fuse in pump relay box)is not seen by the dme-the starter will not engage.I will rectify by bridging this input and deleting the smg pump relay.
Please anyone with info re the clutch engagement point.....:help

I have new cylinders, and lines is "home made"=copper pipe+renault twingo brake hose :)
(it´s that master i send the pics)

Clutch feel is like any other car, little bit harder, but not too much.

Little up´n down+I got the vacuum bleeder machine(right word?), and it worked right away.
Have you pull your master piston hole way up and down?
Mine won´t first came full up if i dont pull it up by hands.