My rear sub frame bushings are shot and need to be replaced. Im debating whether to go with stock or urethane (powerflex purple a lil softer than red from bimmerworld)

Its a street car and I drive it almost daily I would go with urethane but Im afraid its gonna give me too much cabin noise and squeak. So im thinking of just goin with stock ... I was hoping some one made shims for the rear sub frame bushings but couldn't find any.


Has anyone replaced these before I was thinking of just dropping the subframe about 10" (not disconnecting the breaks) and drilling the old ones out and than pressing the new ones in..?

If anyone is running urethane bushings or anything else harder than stock please post about your experience

I used Powerflex purple and the rear end is definitely tighter. The car still rides acceptably well. I am not hearing squeak or cabin noise. Rather, I am feeling firmness and that translates into a rougher ride over rough roads.

We removed the subframe and pressed the bushings out. I have read of people using RTAB tools. I am not sure whether you can drop the subframe enough without disconnecting the brakes (including parking brakes). It was harder than I expected when we did it. You won't be able to drill unless you get the subframe all the way down. Drilling gets mixed reviews. The good news is that the Powerflex go in easily. Good opportunity to weld swaybar tabs if you have not already done so.

UUC may have poly bushings that are softer than the Powerflex but firmer than stock.

Can I make a recommendation get the UUC bushings. I had the Powerflex bushings and hated them. The UUC bushings are much better, streetable and they don't make any noise.

I used Powerflex purple and the rear end is definitely tighter. The car still rides acceptably well. I am not hearing squeak or cabin noise. Rather, I am feeling firmness and that translates into a rougher ride over rough roads.

We removed the subframe and pressed the bushings out. I have read of people using RTAB tools. I am not sure whether you can drop the subframe enough without disconnecting the brakes (including parking brakes). It was harder than I expected when we did it. You won't be able to drill unless you get the subframe all the way down. Drilling gets mixed reviews. The good news is that the Powerflex go in easily. Good opportunity to weld swaybar tabs if you have not already done so.

UUC may have poly bushings that are softer than the Powerflex but firmer than stock.


I replaced mine with the subframe still mostly in the car. You can drop it down enough with the e-brake and brake lines still attached to use some sort of puller or hole saw, drill, sawzall, etc. but if I were to do it again, I'd remove the subframe entirely. I also installed the aluminum subframe bushings, which I wouldn't recommend for a mostly street car. The aluminum bushings were a nightmare to install. Finally got them using a huge impact gun and a ball joint press. Still took forever. The poly will be easier to intall than even the stock because they're 2 pieces. With as much trouble as it is to get the stock ones out I don't think I'd try to put them back in.

This is great info thanks!



Can I make a recommendation get the UUC bushings. I had the Powerflex bushings and hated them. The UUC bushings are much better, streetable and they don't make any noise.

Hows the cabin noise did you notice a difference?

Its between the UUC bushings or stock .. If UUC is really just a lil stiffer than stock and don't squeak, or increase cabin noise by much if any its a go.

Can I make a recommendation get the UUC bushings. I had the Powerflex bushings and hated them. The UUC bushings are much better, streetable and they don't make any noise.

I have had no problems with my powerflex bushings. Easy to install and have had them for around 9 months now with no problems.

UUC is out of stock and probably wont ship out till mid next week ... this blows.



Edit: Never mind got them from one of UUC dealers that had them in stock.

I have AKG subframe bushings in my E30 and love them. Not sure if they make them for an E36 or not.

Pretty much what post #4 said
I have a write up if you search for an install. GL...

I replaced mine with the entire subframe out of the car since I was working on the diff too.

To remove the bushings I first used a torch to heat the metal center piece. After about 3 mins they sizzle and pop and slide out from the rubber melting. From there I'd take a sawzall and cut the outer ring which relieved all the tension in the bushing. Pop the bushing out with a quick tap and install the powerflex 2 piece bushings.

I've done a few of these and prefer this way of removal over the press tool. It's easier, MUCH faster, and kinda fun. About 3-5 mins to remove each bushing!

Got my bushings in today .. one set is red the other one yellow, not sure which one is front which one is rear .. but the red ones are a lil bigger so should be able to figure it out no instructions .... help?

Was thinking yesterday and remembered that my rear subframe cage is still from a 328i, the shop only replaced the trailing arms breaks etc. even though I told them to just drop the whole thing... So I got an M3 rear subframe cage, were gonna install the bushings tonight than drop the whole thing tomorrow and just swap it out.

Whats the big difference between the 3 series and m3 rear subframe cage?

I went thru this when I got my UUC bushings. The red/yellow is for M3 subframes, 2 different diameter holes, the yellow installs in the rear holes. All the bushing holes are supposed to be the same size on non M's so you would need red/red with the 328 subframe. Also remember to install body washers on top of the bushings in the front.

Whats the actual visible difference between the M3 and none M3 subframe cage .. Im sitting here looking at them and cant really see any got one from a 95 M3 and its stamped on top "M3" .. but a lil rusty not gonna use that one.

Supposedly the only difference is that the M3 does not use the same size bushing in the front and rear. The size diffeence isnt big enough to be visable

Installing everything back on now .. those washer plates that go at the bottom of the bushings .. had to turn them upside down .. because its shaped like a hat .. and if you install them the way they normally are nothing holds the bushin in .. just made sense to turn them around ... cant get ahold of UUC .. is this the way they are suppose to go?

Installing everything back on now .. those washer plates that go at the bottom of the bushings .. had to turn them upside down .. because its shaped like a hat .. and if you install them the way they normally are nothing holds the bushin in .. just made sense to turn them around ... cant get ahold of UUC .. is this the way they are suppose to go?


ive called Rob about this before..my yellow bushing fit just fine, but my red ones in front, for some reason, they seem not to sit flush on the bottom...i asked if mayeb putting a washer on top, and also on the bottom to sandwich them together would help, and he said that there is no need for a washer on top...

im going to try to put the washer on the bottom upside down...maybe that will make it flush (btw UUC is closed for the day, so the next time they are open is monday :()

i really wish the uuc bushings came with some kind of manual.

http://i95.photobucket.com/albums/l125/excidium28/Subframedamage008-1.jpg
This is the washer i was talking about .. I had to flip it.

I installed mine with stock washers and stock orientation after Rob said to use the stock hardware. When I set the car down the front (red) bushings popped over the bolt head on the front. You could see that the bushing was like 1/4" out of the subframe. I called Rob back and he said to use like a 2" body washer on the top to hold it in place, so i had to take everything back apart to install the washer. I like UUC products but I wish alot of their items had better or atleast some instructions

I installed mine with stock washers and stock orientation after Rob said to use the stock hardware. When I set the car down the front (red) bushings popped over the bolt head on the front. You could see that the bushing was like 1/4" out of the subframe. I called Rob back and he said to use like a 2" body washer on the top to hold it in place, so i had to take everything back apart to install the washer. I like UUC products but I wish alot of their items had better or atleast some instructions


:eyecrazy:eyecrazy

screw that ..so far everything looks/feels ok.. just the washer part was confusing.

My powerflex bushings came with 8 flat washers. One for the top and one for the bottom of each bushing.

The M3 subframe is visually not different, but the diameter of the holes is a bit larger.

I think you already did the rear subframe reinforcements but if not this is a good time.

Forrest- Perhaps you can dremel the old one out and then slot the new washer so you wont have to drop the entire subframe again.

So everything is installed .. came to find out that there is 8 plates that are suppose to go on each side and were not included in my kit (old stock front UUC dealer) I guess they started including big washers. Now I dont mind taking the rear bolts out and installing the washers but in order to install them on the front, I would need to drop the subframe because the front 2 are studs. Thats a lot of work.

Thinking if I could slide with out installing the front top 2 washers.

Those 2 washers on the top in front are the ones needed the most. The bushings on mine popped over the bolt head of the front studs